What to attach to drawbar?

[Richard]

Just took delivery a week ago of an International 1066.

So far, what I do around here when a tree (for example) might fall is bring out the backhoe, cut the tree and then push/drag it somewhere. Using the front bucket for a drag situation is always......a bit of a drag! Usually have to go in reverse which can create traction issues... If I go forward and pull with bucket, then chain is going all the way under machine and I risk running over it during a curve.... I've dealt with it but don't like it.

Now, with the 1066, I'm realizing we can maybe just use it. So, the tractor has a draw bar hanging out the back. If I wanted to attach a 3/8" chain to drag a stump or something.... what's the best way to attach chain to drawbar?

(side note as I think deeper on this.... this might not happen as easily as I'm thinking because I also bought a hydraulic mower to pull behind tractor and the hydraulic pump will bolt to the back of tractor so it can be "easily" taken off......but it's still going to be a pain in the hiney so it might not come off as easily nor often as I'm imagining)

 

[jeff9366]

You need a $20 clevis attached Chain Grab Hook. Readily available at TSC, Rural King, Agri Supply and other ag oriented retailers.

I pull loop-end nylon straps too.

 

[s219]

You probably want a clevis D-ring with a pin that is matched to the hole size in the drawbar. Get one with a regular pin (not screw in) that has a cotter pin or lynch pin on the bottom. These types of rings are strong and easy to use -- if you have to remove it to feed or remove a rope/chain, it's quick. Tractor Supply sells a bunch, but I think I got mine online somewhere.

The benefit of a D-ring is that it will work for rope, cable, or chain.

 

[s219]

This is what I use on my tractors, about $20 at TSC:

 

[s219]

BTW, if you have to skid logs on the ground, the better solution is to use a skid plate or log lifter on the 3-pt hitch, so that you can elevate the front butt end of the log off the ground. Dragging logs with the drawbar is not going to be very efficient, plus if you plan to use it for firewood or lumber, you're going to get the bark dirty and it's harder on chainsaw chains or saw blades.

 

[charlton289]

Another idea is if you get shackle make sure you get one that screws in because I have had a branch or stick pull the hair pin out so you might have a chance of losing the pin. But if you use a screwing from the top less chance of it falling or get knocked out the draw bar.

 

[WranglerX]

BTW, if you have to skid logs on the ground, the better solution is to use a skid plate or log lifter on the 3-pt hitch, so that you can elevate the front butt end of the log off the ground. Dragging logs with the drawbar is not going to be very efficient, plus if you plan to use it for firewood or lumber, you're going to get the bark dirty and it's harder on chainsaw chains or saw blades.

And if skidding and end of log catches on obstacle it's going to be somewhere between minor and major catastrophic....

Dale

 

[s219]

And if skidding and end of log catches on obstacle it's going to be somewhere between minor and major catastrophic....

Dale

Very good point -- I am pretty sure we've heard some of those stories here on TBN.

Modern tractors usually have the drawbar below the rear axle, so it would be hard to pop a wheelie and flip over when a drawbar load hangs up, but I've heard all sorts of stories with issues on older tractors, or rigged up pulling setups on newer tractors. It happens!

 

[WranglerX]

Very good point -- I am pretty sure we've heard some of those stories here on TBN.

Modern tractors usually have the drawbar below the rear axle, so it would be hard to pop a wheelie and flip over when a drawbar load hangs up, but I've heard all sorts of stories with issues on older tractors, or rigged up pulling setups on newer tractors. It happens!

There have been two discussions of merit if not gone to point of nausea... What drawbar to use and tow/snatch straps/chains..

Won't go into any because if interested each can search them out and read them... My point no matter what you are towing with (drawbar) and what hook up (straps or chains) if log or load chatches on a rock or end digs in and stops moving while tractor is still moving, SOMETHING IS GOING TO HAPPEN....Think the idea of a of well designed skid plate or arched lifting skidder would be prudent... Anything to allow whatever is being drug without hindrance...

Northern Tool #51963 minimally ...Might also consider the # 41255... Search string of "log skidding" will show up other things... Keep In mind I am only suggesting not endorsing...

Dale

 

[Richard]

Thanks for the ideas. I'm aware of the idea of using a skid plate. I don't burn wood so this won't be for firewood. It usually gets placed in the burn pile. (when we DO cut for my wife's cousins firewood next door, we cut in place and either put into his truck or loader bucket and just dump it at his pile)

I don't want to say "this is strictly" for cleaning up a mess.... but that's the primary thought.

 

[John_Mc]

There have been two discussions of merit if not gone to point of nausea... What drawbar to use and tow/snatch straps/chains..

Won't go into any because if interested each can search them out and read them... My point no matter what you are towing with (drawbar) and what hook up (straps or chains) if log or load chatches on a rock or end digs in and stops moving while tractor is still moving, SOMETHING IS GOING TO HAPPEN....Think the idea of a of well designed skid plate or arched lifting skidder would be prudent... Anything to allow whatever is being drug without hindrance...

Northern Tool #51963 minimally ...Might also consider the # 41255... Search string of "log skidding" will show up other things... Keep In mind I am only suggesting not endorsing...

Dale

I've not been impressed with any of the Strongway or TimberTuff log handling equipment I've seen. However, if you are going to be dragging a fair number of logs behind a tractor or ATV/UTV, I do agree that a logging arch can make a lot of sense. You can move a much larger log more easily and with less power, you don't tear up your trails as much, and the logs stay cleaner.

Do keep in mind that if you are hauling something heavy on wheels and in hilly terrain, it's not so much a matter of what you can pull as it is a question of what you can stop.

You can make a logging arch pretty inexpensively, if you are good a scrounging and know how to weld. I'd suggest using something other than the Strongway Arch as a model, as it lacks proper bracing/reinforcement at the joints. The Cadillac of logging arches are made by Logrite, they aren't cheap, but they will last several lifetimes. (They also make the world's best peaveys and cant hooks, if you happen to be in the market for one.)

 

[WranglerX]

I've not been impressed with any of the Strongway or TimberTuff log handling equipment I've seen. However, if you are going to be dragging a fair number of logs behind a tractor or ATV/UTV, I do agree that a logging arch can make a lot of sense. You can move a much larger log more easily and with less power, you don't tear up your trails as much, and the logs stay cleaner.

Do keep in mind that if you are hauling something heavy on wheels and in hilly terrain, it's not so much a matter of what you can pull as it is a question of what you can stop.

You can make a logging arch pretty inexpensively, if you are good a scrounging and know how to weld. I'd suggest using something other than the Strongway Arch as a model, as it lacks proper bracing/reinforcement at the joints. The Cadillac of logging arches are made by Logrite, they aren't cheap, but they will last several lifetimes. (They also make the world's best peaveys and cant hooks, if you happen to be in the market for one.)

The items (pictures) I posted were for example only... Not an endorsement of product....

Maybe I should have just posted this link..

log skidding arch - Google Search

Dale

 

[John_Mc]

Dale - That was not meant to be a comment on your link in particular. You made it clear that it was just an example. I was just commenting to encourage folks to look around a bit beyond that example to find an arch that is a bit more stoutly built.

There are a lot of options in the spectrum between the Strongway arch and a LogRite arch (and I'll be the first to admit that not everyone needs to go to the expense of a LogRite arch to get their own job done).

 

[s219]

I think log arches are fine for ATVs and garden tractors, but for a CUT the most productive is to get a skidder plate or log skidding attachment for the 3-pt hitch. Chain the end of the log with a choker, hook the chain to the 3-pt, and lift the front butt end off the ground. Skid away. It's great for fast turnaround and productivity -- I think one time I skidded over three dozen logs out in an afternoon. You can often skid multiple logs out at once (the most I do is 2-3).

For added safety, you can run a second chain to the drawbar and make it shorter, so that the drawbar is applying the pulling load. If anything gets hung up, there's much less chance of the tractor popping a wheelie. But generally, using the skidder attachment gets the butt end off the ground so that you're much less likely to hang up on anything.

 

[John_Mc]

If you really want to up your productivity, get a logging winch. After working with one for the past 9 or 10 years, I wonder how I ever got along in the woods without one.

However, the OP's post was about how to attach a chain to his drawbar, something that was answered in posts 2,3, and 4. If we keep going as we have been, we'll soon have him looking for a skidder, forwarder, and/or feller buncher.

 

[TheMan419]

Can we have a thread as long as the one about the rounded of drain plug?