Yet another new SCUT question

[mg448]

I'm looking at trading in my Deere x500 which I use for mowing and my x585 with cab and front blower which I use strictly for snow removal and getting a new SCUT that does everything. I have 6 acres. Steep lawns and driveway. Some of the side hills I mow with the x500(54" deck) make me a little nervous every time I cut them. The driveway is steep enough I need 4wd. There are about 2 acres of mowed lawn, 2-3 of brush that needs to be cut and my gravel driveway washes out periodically requiring a back blade to drag the stone back up the hill.

I got a quote from my local Deere dealer on a 1025r with a bucket, 60" drive over auto connect belly mower and a 54" rear snow blower. This is the set up I want for whatever I get. The Deere is my first choice mainly because of the drive over auto connect deck. I've heard that you can't drive over the Kubota deck with your fel on. The Deere is a little more $$ then I want to spend even though I think they offered fair values on both my trades. I contacted my local Kubota dealer, and while they have a good reputation and I liked them when I bought my walk behind ariens snowblower, they have not called me back in 3 days. Both dealers are 30 minutes away. I have Mahindra, case and New Holland dealers within an hour of me. Should I consider one of them? I have a lot of hours on various Deere and Kubota utility tractors(33-75hp), but I just don't know much about any of the other 3.

I value my 2 trades at 10k. Deere dealers first offer was 9k. I'd like put 2k down and finance no more then 10. Deere was about 2k above what I'm looking to spend. I'm on CL every day looking for a good deal on used, but they just don't come by very often so I'll probably buy new.

Any input is appreciated,
Thanks,
Mike

 

[Tompet]

Do you think you have any more room to negotiate from your Deere dealer? You could wait for the Kubota dealer or go in person and get that sorted out directly, which would probably work out better than phone tag. It would be surprising if they were more competitive with your JD trades, but worth the effort.

Did you ever look at Kubota B2301?

It sounds like you prefer the JD setup. How big of a deal is auto connect deck to you vs just a drive over deck? Do you think you would gain much by trying to sell your two JD's yourself vs trading? If not, all you can do is try to negotiate a little more with another visit to JD.

Doesn't hurt to look at other brands, check out features/size etc. then go in person you may be impressed or disappointed and confirm your preference.

With the steep terrain described rear wheel spacers sound like a good option no matter the model. You have experience with larger tractors etc., so it sounds like you know what you want. Good luck with the search/decision

 

[Tractorable]

Sure you don’t want to keep the X500 for mowing and get a larger frame tractor like a Kubota B or L to handle the ground engaging driveway work, snow removal, and brush work?

 

[dragoneggs]

Sure you don稚 want to keep the X500 for mowing and get a larger frame tractor like a Kubota B or L to handle the ground engaging driveway work, snow removal, and brush work?

That would be my vote. I don't have a lot of property but some is untamed. I love my dedicated mower, a Z turn and my BX. Last thing I want to do is remove/install my mower deck on a regular basis. It can be an economical decision but if you can swing it... two machines tailored to what they do best is my advice.

I actually have an old JD garden tractor that I just can't seem to part with... to make it three in my stable. Probably should let her go and parlay it into a nice shop tool.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

That would be my vote. I don't have a lot of property but some is untamed. I love my dedicated mower, a Z turn and my BX. Last thing I want to do is remove/install my mower deck on a regular basis. It can be an economical decision but if you can swing it... two machines tailored to what they do best is my advice.

I actually have an old JD garden tractor that I just can't seem to part with... to make it three in my stable. Probably should let her go and parlay it into a nice shop tool.

Agree. I'll give my usual spiel: tractors are lousy lawn mowers. Slow, heavy (will compact your soil), not very maneuverable, 4WD will tear up your lawn (and it's dangerous to go downhill in 2WD), plus you'll need to remove the FEL unless you're talking about an open field, and that's a real hassle--disconnecting hydraulic lines and such. You didn't mention any tasks beyond pulling an implement for driveway maintenance and snow-blowing. Do you need a FEL? Sounds like you have some serious steep, plus in upstate NY you may get a lot of snow. More details will help, but sounds like a tractor big enough to handle the snow/driveway/hills will be too big to be a good lawnmower.

I'm all for consolidating; I hate maintaining multiple engines. But a tractor is a tractor; not a lawnmower. BTW, 2 acres is a lot of lawn. Ever consider reducing that? There are alternatives.

 

[dodge man]

I keep seeing people saying tractors make lousy lawn mowers. I don’t agree. Maybe if you have a smooth flat yard that is true. I kept my mower, which was a cheaper John Deere with a 54” deck and never used it. I have a Kubota BX with a 60” deck and only take the deck off for winter so once a year.

My yard is similar, a lot of side hills and the 4 wheel drive with loaded tires make me feel safer. If you have the time and patience I’d give the other dealers a shot. In my area it seems like Deere’s command more money but they make a great product.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

I keep seeing people saying tractors make lousy lawn mowers. I don稚 agree. Maybe if you have a smooth flat yard that is true.

I guess as a former landscaper, I have a pretty specific idea of what a lawn is: a relatively smooth flat area immediately around the house, where homeowners spend time and money edging, planting, mulching, trimming, applying fertilizers, weed & feed, etc., and where you'll often find flower beds, ornamental trees, patios, the kid's swing set, picnic tables, or other obstacles. Tractors are not great for this. Of course not everybody has or wants this kind of lawn, especially in the country. Often the house is just set down in a field. Nothing wrong with that either!

I have a VERY small area around the house that is "landscaped" and where no tractor may go. It is kept mowed short, and I care about how the grass looks. The rest of the open area (an acre or two) is rougher, is cut higher, and whatever gets me up and down the steep hills safely is fine to mow it. In fact I'm in the process of converting much of it into native grass/wildflower meadows that only require a rough mow once/twice a year, to reduce maintenance plus other benefits.

Should have been more clear.

 

[shooterdon]

Going down steep drives with a rear mounted blower will get old....in fact, even with a level drive it gets old. For a test, take your current machine and run it backwards up and down your drive and see if you really want to do that.

I have issues with C3-C5 in my neck that may require surgery so maybe I am a lot more sensitive than others. If a front mounted blower comes along at a decent price for my JD I am snapping it up. Until then, I have an old 2001 Ram with a plow on it.

Looking at other than green or orange cannot hurt. But I have to agree that an auto connect deck is a very nice feature...especially as you get older. I have a mmm for my older JD and it is such a pain to hook up it will sit unused until I sell it.

 

[mg448]

Thanks for the feedback. My lawn is fairly open so mowing with the loader on won't be a huge problem. I do have a fenced in play area for the little guy, but that and a couple of other tight areas are handled by a Honda push mower so the tractor is only for the bigger areas away from the house where it doesn't have to look like a golf course.

I am on the fence about the rear/front snowblower question. I would like to keep my loader on all year, but I did get by(barely) last year with just the x500 and 44" snowblower. I could deal with swapping the fel for the snowblower in the fall if I had to. That's another reason I'm leaning green. From what I've seen their implements are the quickest and easiest to swap. I could be wrong about that though.

One thing I worry about with the bigger tractors is will they handle the side slopes I have to mow? My x500 does, but I get a little nervous in some areas. The local deere dealer says a 1025 will be better on the side hills, but I'm not sure I believe him. Anyone have any experience wit the Deere or a Kubota bx mowing fairly steep side hills?

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

One thing I worry about with the bigger tractors is will they handle the side slopes I have to mow? My x500 does, but I get a little nervous in some areas. The local deere dealer says a 1025 will be better on the side hills, but I'm not sure I believe him. Anyone have any experience wit the Deere or a Kubota bx mowing fairly steep side hills?

I had the same concerns as I have steep hills. Look for a tractor that is heavy for its size; no more than twice as long as it is wide, for more stability; larger tires for its size (this varies quite a bit between brands); 4WD; and definitely fill the rear tires.

I have 40% slopes, and with attention to all of these factors, mine is very firmly planted and stable on all my slopes. Quite relieved. Still, I avoid mowing sideways. If you must go side-hill, you might think about a different machine for that job. You might want to measure the incline of your slopes, so we know what you're talking about.

I shopped Deere and was concerned that on the smaller models, some of the major components that normally are made of heavy metal, which helps lower your center of gravity, on the Deere are made of cast aluminum--very light weight. The tractor was also a bit narrower, longer, and higher.

Other brands also have drive-over mower decks. I would definitely test drive any drive-over mower deck to see how hard it is to line it up exactly. If you don't care about a fine cut on your grass, what about a rear mower?

 

[dodge man]

I mow fairly steep side hills with my BX. Is it more stable then you current mower. Maybe a little but with a roll bar and seat belt, I feel safer. If mine was any steeper I'd get wheel spacers to help. I also have fluid in my rear tires which helps. I mow with the loader off. Once you get good at it you can get it off in about 3 minutes.

Rear snow blower? Price is the big plus, much cheaper and easier to hook up.

 

[mg448]

Thanks for the input Dave. I didn't know wheel spacers were available for the bx. I just got a quote from my local Kubota dealer and the bx2380 with the 60" belly mower, quick attach fel and a 50" front snowblower is about 2k cheaper then the deere 1025 with the rear snow blower. Definitely tilting towards the Kubota now, but they won't offer me the same $$ for my 2 Deere garden tractor trade-ins. They do have better financing though(0% 84mos vs 0%60mos). I'll ask about the wheel spacers when I call them tomorrow.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

With absolutely no loyalty to any paint color, when initially shopping for a tractor, I determined the JD was "least suited to my needs." Those needs being stability on hills. Check out my old thread when I first started looking a few years ago. OTOH if green makes you happy, go for it. I believe a tractor for some of us is about love-at-first-sight.

 

[rngrrymd]

Bro-Tek

You can get wheel spacers for Kubota, John Deere, Massey, New Holland and Kioti from Bro-tek if you're looking for a little more stability.

 

[dragoneggs]

Bro-Tek

You can get wheel spacers for Kubota, John Deere, Massey, New Holland and Kioti from Bro-tek if you're looking for a little more stability.

Can highly recommend. 2in for the rear and 1.25in for the fronts. I don't have a belly mower on my BX but if you do, make sure you get compatible spacer size. Sorry, I can't remember the specifics. Bro Tek will help.

 

[stevem5215]

Steep slopes and side hills are jobs for machines like a Steiner or Ventrac. And the snowblower will blow snow into the neighbors yard. They are pretty heavy duty machines for a Subcompact size. I've used my Steiner on steep side slopes going sideways. I've also used the Ford 1900 in 4wd mode across the slopes. It does fine, you just have to watch the oil pressure as a very steep slope starts to cavitate the oil and can be an issue with oil pressure dropping. And that brings up a good point. If you are cutting steep slopes and the engine isn't designed for it you can decrease the life of the engine due to the cavitation and oil starvation from it. Buyer beware is a good point when looking at the grade the mower supports and will be listed on the spec sheet.

Steve who lives in hilly Pa

 

[Rock Crawler]

You speak of steep slopes, and you question stability of a larger tractor compared to a SCUT. I have a photo of my yard attached for you to ponder.

I cut 3 acres of this slope, I started out buying a SCUT (Kubota BX25D) and found it to be inherently dangerous and deadly even with filled tires. If you stepped on the downhill side of the floor board the machine would start to tip. With my backhoe on, I had no choice at all but to swing it to the uphill side and drive real slow. Overall, it was MUCH less stable than my garden tractors. As in, I dumped that thing on Craigslist within 4 months of buying it. Not just no.... HECK NO!

I went from that to a Kubota B2650 that I had built specifically to live and work on my property. I had it built with wider tires than standard, spacers added, 400+ lbs of fluid added to each rear tire. My B2650 is massive compared to that SCUT. It is much wider (61"), much longer and much taller. But... it is much heavier as well with those fluid filled tires that are 4 times larger/heavier.

The stability of the B2650 compared to that SCUT is night and day improved. Do not get in your head that a SCUT is stable. I found it to be the most insanely dangerous and unstable thing I have ever driven on this land.

 

[tractorshopper]

I mow with my BX with the loader and attachments off. I have real wheels filled. Mows great. 4X4 high on the hills. When on this side hill and a little steeper place I feel nervous, but I can sit in the seat and rock toward the down hill with no lifting of uphill tires at all.

You can drive over the deck with your loader on if you want, but it's so easy to take off the loader and put it back on that I don't know why you'd want to.

You can't drive over the deck with a box blade or tiller on. Actually, you can, but you can't lower the 3PT to full bottom to remove or put the deck back on with an implement on the back because the hydraulics that controls the 3PT also controls the deck raise/lower.

 

[tractorshopper]