FT 60 stopped running. Need help troubleshooting

[Suburban600]

Linkage on FT60 felt like they were binding. Tractor would start, idle high then shut off. I lubricated them with WD40. Problem seemed better. Tractor would start up idle and operate normally.

Got stuck. Was working through reverse fwd gears and rear lock to try to unstick. Increased the RPM using hand lever. All the sudden engine stopped running about 1800RPM. No smoke, no weird noise, not a thing. The engine just stopped.

No oil in coolant or coolant in oil as far as I can tell. I changed the primary filter. Bled it out until no air from line between filters and fuel injection pump. Fuel sprayed out with force using the manual plunger. I have not checked individual fuel injector lines for fuel flow. However, cranking the engine did not produce any white smoke or diesel smell. It doesn't appear that any fuel is getting to engine.

I have the repair manual and wanted to ask for advice before taking any more steps.

Any diesel experts out there who want to tell me a miracle cure?

 

[thepumpguysc]

If the pump is a Mico inline pump, they have a bad tendency to rust on the inside, causing hi speeds or no starts.
When was the last time you added oil??
The lift pumps are a very weak spot in that system..
& just because the hand primer works doesn't mean its actually pumping fuel while cranking.
The control rack inside the pump will rust or get stuck in the shut-off position..
Remove the side cover & pull the stop cable & see if the control rack moves..

 

[Suburban600]

I'll check the FIP oil. I'll pull the side panel and take a look. If it is not moving any options that you recommend for breaking free. Thanks thepumpguysc.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Depending on how bad its rusted, it is possible to free it up w/ alittle persuasion & penetrating oil.

 

[Suburban600]

Depending on how bad its rusted, it is possible to free it up w/ alittle persuasion & penetrating oil.

Obviously I haven't checked the oil...I've never checked the oil in the FIPs of any of my other diesels. Silly me.

This is my current plan: I'm thinking of filling the FIP all the way to the top with ATF as a penetrating oil. Leave it for a day or so drain, refill with non detergent oil.

This is my problem: I have all the manuals but they are fuzzy on the oil fill and drain plugs (the operator manual shows a photo of the pump but they omitted identifying the fill and drain plug. It appears the fill plug is on top of the governor housing. the drain plug appears to be down below the inspection cover. The drawings in the parts manual are similar but different than my pump...the drawing seems to show a small dipstick. My pump looks similar this one that is currently listed on ebay. I'm going to take the photo out to the swamp to verify....don't tractors always break down in swamps or mud or some other awkward location.

 

[weathda]

Your pump shows up in my manual, but you're right the pictures are fuzzy.

Do you have this picture?

 

[Suburban600]

Your pump shows up in my manual, but you're right the pictures are fuzzy.

Do you have this picture?

The picture in my operators manual just has a photo without the numbers. The pump in your picture shows a #2 overflow that is not on my pump, I think. I think for my tractors the level port is a little behind and to the right of the primer pump. Thank you. I did fill the thing up to the top using the filler port. There is a tube for overflow on my tractor. I watched the ATF flow out of it...I had thought the tube was a diesel vent of some sort in the past. I plugged the tube to allow the pump interior to soak in the ATF.

Thank You!

How do you like the Kubota 2501?

 

[thepumpguysc]

50/50 ATF & Acetone will work better.. it'll take STRAIGHT ATF longer to break things loose.
Let it soak for a few days, pull the stop & spin the engine several times..
Work the shut off back & forth & spin the engine..
Loosen ALL the lines AT THE INJECTORS.. work the hand primer..
Then spin the engine until fuel squirts out the lines AT the injectors..
IF fuel squirts out the lines, tighten them up & start the engine..
IF it races up hi.. use the stop cable to slow it down abit, inorder to get it outta the swamp, so you can work on it.
I'm not sure weather or not I'd leave the ATF in there.. it JUST DEPENDS on how far you have to travel..
IF its a "distance".. drain the ATF & fill w/ about 1/2 QT of engine oil..
The drain plug is to the right & beside the lift pump..10mm wrench.
Taking the lift pump OFF will get MORE out tho.. BUT theres a paper gasket that will rip..
The "full" plug is on the back of the governor cover, at the bottom..10 or 12mm wrench

 

[thepumpguysc]

"Normally" you don't have to check an injection pump.. It just depends on the manufacturer..
IF the pump is "fuel oil" lubricated, a rotary pump, lines from the pump TO the injectors come off the pump in a circle.. they use the fuel to lube the internals..
IF the pump is an inline pump, the lines come off the pump in a straight line.. some are lubed by engine oil pressure FROM the engine & others are filled manually.. like yours..
& there are models of FarmTrac w/ Mico pumps that ARE lubed by the engine.. & they STILL rust.. its just a bad design..

 

[Suburban600]

50/50 ATF & Acetone will work better.. it'll take STRAIGHT ATF longer to break things loose.
Let it soak for a few days, pull the stop & spin the engine several times..
Work the shut off back & forth & spin the engine..
Loosen ALL the lines AT THE INJECTORS.. work the hand primer..
Then spin the engine until fuel squirts out the lines AT the injectors..

Thank you so much for helping with the fill, full and drain points...the old farmtrac information is not quite complete in this area.

I'll go back out tomorrow drain and add the 50/50 mix you recommend. I'll try the restart sequence after the holiday...to hot to do any logging and milling right now anyway.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Sounds like a plan..
I too turned down a job for this weekend, just to darn hot..
Some folks get confused by "loosen the lines AT the injectors & work/pump the HPrimer"..
They think fuel should come out of the lines while they pump the hp.. not so.. the HP is just to make sure fuel is in the pumping chamber & it takes the engine/pump TURNING {crank the engine} inorder to get the fuel to come out of the lines at the injectors..{just to clarify}

 

[thepumpguysc]

When refilling the pump w/ OIL.. remember, your filling/adding oil to THE GOVERNOR.. the oil has to pass thru a set of bearing inorder to fill/lube THE PUMP camshaft & front bearing.. IT TAKES AWHILE for the oil to squeeze past the rear bearing & enter the PUMP..
so don't get impatient.. The "full" plug on the governor might show full, but the PUMP may still be dry, need oil..
Add 1/2 qt or more & have a smoke..lol.. Give it time to seep into the PUMP chamber..
The pump body has a "vent" on the back side, as you already know, so adding MORE THAN NEEDED will just come out the vent..
Let us know how it worked out for ya.. & I'm usually around, if you need anymore info.. TPG

 

[weathda]

The pump in your picture shows a #2 overflow that is not on my pump, I think. I think for my tractors the level port is a little behind and to the right of the primer pump.

I wasn't sure. My Farmtrac has the rotary pump. I'm glad pumpguy is around. He definitely knows his stuff and can explain it much better than the manuals.

How do you like the Kubota 2501?

I like it. It's been incredibly dependable compact tractor. In fact, I put 4 hours on it today clipping some pasture. It was bought new in 1984 and has been in the family ever since. This bushhog is the same vintage and was bought new with the tractor. I did some welding and reinforcing on it and gave it some lip stick. Neither one of them know when to stop. LOL

 

[thepumpguysc]

Weathda> would you post a pic of your inj. pump??
Some of them have a "cold start" devise on them that IMPLODE the inj. pump if not maintained properly..
I just wanna keep you going for many years to come..

 

[weathda]

I do. Are you talking about the cold start advance located behind the hand-primer pump? All I know about is it activates during cold starts for about 10 minutes. The slightest load on the engine makes it sound like the valves are about break out of the engine. I typically unplug the electrical clip in the summer time because I don't figure I need the advance.

I've not been able to tell a difference when starting when using it and not. Please do tell what else about maintaining it. I just soon not use the advance at all.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Yes that's it.. All you have to do is change the fuel filters REGULARLY..
I wouldn't rely on "the book" time & hrs.. Change them at least 2x a year.. regardless of hours used.
The filters get clogged & it starts to suck air & the advance piston starts to hammer & the pump implodes..
& is VERY expensive to repair or replace.

 

[weathda]

Alright, good to know.. Ever since I found trash in the tank (from previous owner), stopped up filter screen and dirty filters, I've been changing them fairly often. It hasn't given any trouble in a couple of years. It actually been a pretty good tractor overall.

 

[Suburban600]

Fuel spurting at #3 (rear injector) but not #1 or #2. I cranked several times. Manual says there could be air in line (I'll try again tomorrow). The manual also says the plunger spring may be broken or the plunger is seized or badly damaged.

 

[Clint S]

This is good to know as I have the that pump. I am going to unplug mine for the summer too.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Just take off the side cover, behind the hand primer.. to access the springs & plunger.
That way you can SEE what its doing..
The screw is METRIC.. probably a 10mm or an Allan screw, 4 or 5mm.
If the plunger is stuck up.. its possible to "knock" it down.. just use finesse.