600' water line suggestions

[LouNY]

A 3/4 meter installed in a 2"pipe will behave much like an orifice plate the velocity will increase thru the reduction and it will create a pressure drop at that point, after that the flow restriction will be the pipe friction. That type of set up will flow much more then 600' of 1"or 1 1/4" would.

 

[murph1]

Richard Meters here are on wifi so they just have to drive by and record

 

[Cat_Driver]

I know you think you need a straight run, but in reality you don't. If I was going to do the run I would put water hydrants as often as you can afford it.
Think fires. I would put a fire fighting station 1/3, 1/3 and 1/3 of the way down the drive. Use sonnotubes run the pipe from underground to the top of the sonnotube
top it off with a 2" fire hydrant. It wouldn't hurt to have a 3/4" garden hose also at that station.

This is what I did, when I ran 4,000 feet around my property. I dropped fire hydrants every 300' - 500'. Helped when I did a brush burn, I was able to watch the fire with a
2" fire hose t keep it in check.

Doing it this was it solves your "LONG RUN" problems, and it give you a little piece of mind if a fire is header your way.

 

[fried1765]

The 2" x 1" x 2" fitting I suggested would be a tee!
I was not suggesting a reducer.
2" connection along the main line, with the 3rd outlet of the "T" at 1", to accommodate a yard hydrant.
No reducing involved

 

[RNeumann]

The word that this discussion is looking for is friction loss. The static pressure would be consistent no matter pipe size. However, when flowing, and depending on GPM, the friction loss decreases pressure over distance and fittings. 2” would ensure a typical house could have irrigation and normal house hold task occur without seeing noticeable drops in pressure.
The local utility would obviously know the pressure at the meter and would recommend the pipe size. If it’s say 50psi a 10 psi drop would be terrible for showing, irrigation etc. Conversely, at say 200psi a small line could be run with a pressure reducer at the house.
Bottom line- without doing friction loss calcs it’s simply someone’s SWAG to say the pipe is the wrong size. Trust your utility!
The other reason to upsize would be to have a very minor affect on freeze prevention. A larger line would take a little more time to freeze solid.

 

[dragoneggs]

The 2" x 1" x 2" fitting I suggested would be a tee!
I was not suggesting a reducer.
2" connection along the main line, with the 3rd outlet of the "T" at 1", to accommodate a yard hydrant.
No reducing involved

Ah... sincere apologies. Didn’t read carefully your post. 2” does seem a bit excessive but I’m one to error on providing future capacity as years of experience has beaten it in to my head. Pay a little more now and save big time on headaches later.

I’m for commercial frost free risers throughout the property if you can swing it.

 

[ovrszd]

Most meters here are on the front fence line to facilitate easy and fast reading by different meter readers who are not familiar with the areas in which they are working.
It was an unusual logical move made by Government when they controlled the water.

Yep, same here.

 

[ovrszd]

Richard Meters here are on wifi so they just have to drive by and record

Our rural system is that way too. Public right of way access to the meter is desired to have control if service needs disconnected.

 

[ovrszd]

The word that this discussion is looking for is friction loss. The static pressure would be consistent no matter pipe size. However, when flowing, and depending on GPM, the friction loss decreases pressure over distance and fittings. 2” would ensure a typical house could have irrigation and normal house hold task occur without seeing noticeable drops in pressure.
The local utility would obviously know the pressure at the meter and would recommend the pipe size. If it’s say 50psi a 10 psi drop would be terrible for showing, irrigation etc. Conversely, at say 200psi a small line could be run with a pressure reducer at the house.
Bottom line- without doing friction loss calcs it’s simply someone’s SWAG to say the pipe is the wrong size. Trust your utility!
The other reason to upsize would be to have a very minor affect on freeze prevention. A larger line would take a little more time to freeze solid.

I agree. We still don't know static pressure offered at the utility line. If it's marginal the utility would want him to use a larger line to minimize the friction loss.

In my world static pressure isn't a problem and a 600' run will work with a smaller pipe.

Go with the professionals suggestions, including their coupler suggestions.

 

[prichard]

If this is being inspected they could very well fail it if you don't do what the Water Utility dictates.

 

[Gary Fowler]

If this is being inspected they could very well fail it if you don't do what the Water Utility dictates.

The water utilities jurisdiction ends at the meter which is as far as they maintain the water integrity so I cant see them having any right to inspect your supply line. I cant see using a 2" line unless their supply pressure is really low like below 60 PSI. My supply pressure varies from 110-125 PSI (I have checked it many times). My neighbor ran 300+ feet of 1" line to his house and he can run his house plus a 11 head sprinkler system at the same time and have plenty of pressure.

 

[EddieWalker]

My contractor used the same stuff he runs miles of for the water utility district. SDR21. 20 ft lengths with o-ring joints. Water lines need to be able move just a little. They also put in 3 2" "sectionalizing" valves in little brick underground boxes so we can valve out a specific section for repair if it becomes damaged.

View attachment 550774


View attachment 550775

If your soil expands or has any movement at all, this is the best type of pipe out there. There are a few different versions of it, but what's most imported is that it can slide in and out of itself without leaking when the soil moves it in the ground.

 

[LouNY]

OK, I'll try to link this calculator, interesting numbers,
600 ft of 1 inch ID at 15 GPM has a 38 psi pressure loss,
with a 1 3/4 ID only 2.5 psi, then the other way a 3/4" ID 155 PSI loss;
Pipeline Pressure Loss Calculators
plus if there is any elevation change, every 27.7 inches is 1 PSI.

 

[prichard]

The water utilities jurisdiction ends at the meter which is as far as they maintain the water integrity so I cant see them having any right to inspect your supply line. I cant see using a 2" line unless their supply pressure is really low like below 60 PSI. My supply pressure varies from 110-125 PSI (I have checked it many times). My neighbor ran 300+ feet of 1" line to his house and he can run his house plus a 11 head sprinkler system at the same time and have plenty of pressure.

That wasn't my point. The building inspectors may not bother to calculate the size and just enforce whatever the utility says is correct.

The real issue as Lpu has pointed out is friction loss. By building codes there are calculations to determine the correct size based on consumption, length and supply pressure. The codes don't care what size the meter is just like I cannot run #4 wire for 200A to my house even if the electric utility runs that from transformer to the meter.

 

[LD1]

OK, I'll try to link this calculator, interesting numbers,
600 ft of 1 inch ID at 15 GPM has a 38 psi pressure loss,
with a 1 3/4 ID only 2.5 psi, then the other way a 3/4" ID 155 PSI loss;
Pipeline Pressure Loss Calculators
plus if there is any elevation change, every 27.7 inches is 1 PSI.

He probably used a similar calculator when he arrived at his conclusion.

Sure static pressure will remain high. But once water flows.... 600' of small diameter pipe might not be enough.

Minimal elevation change.

And no inspections for anything.

Just gonna be a small house with two people. But don't think he wants water service that is gonna take 2 minutes to fill a 5 gallon bucket either

 

[JRobyn]

There was one other big consideration why my contractor ran 2" pipe for us - he had miles of it in stock for REALLY cheap, and any other size he'd have to special order ($$). We just have a 3/4" tap/meter but are blessed with gobs of pressure (IIRC, about 120# at the meter). We are also blessed that the residences at the end of the line are about 900 ft. below the meter, so in the event of a water outage, I have all of that 2" pipe full of water as a gravity-feed reservoir. IIRC, I calculated it once to be about 650 gal.

We put in regular 3/4" frostproof yard hydrants all along the line, about 7 of them in 1/2 mi. I looked into 2" hydrants but they are astronomically high. The little yard hydrants flow a LOT. Maybe not fire-protection grade, but adds a little peace of mind, AND a cool drink while out working on the road.

 

[ovrszd]

OK, I'll try to link this calculator, interesting numbers,
600 ft of 1 inch ID at 15 GPM has a 38 psi pressure loss,
with a 1 3/4 ID only 2.5 psi, then the other way a 3/4" ID 155 PSI loss;
Pipeline Pressure Loss Calculators
plus if there is any elevation change, every 27.7 inches is 1 PSI.

What combination of uses would it require to total 15gpm?

 

[WM75Guy]

Our situation is similar. Our house is 650' off the road. I have a 1" meter at the road and ran 1 1/2" PVC down the fence line. I branched off with 1" to the house and 1" to the shop and stables. I am buying a Micro Rain MR25 sprinkler reel for the arena so I checked pressure and GPM. Using two outside faucets on the house I have 90 PSI static and 75 PSI residual with the second faucet wide open flowing 10GPM. The wife routinely is flowing 2 sprinklers off of 100' 5/8" garden hoses in the arena without flow problems.

The cost for a bigger meter was negligible when we built in 2009. A regular 5/8" meter was $750, a 3/4" was $1000, and the 1" was $1250. As we are on a coop water system there was no impact fees or additional fees for a larger meter. The neighbors have 5/8" meters with 1" PVC. While that is adequate for the normal house usage they do notice a pressure drop when taking a shower and running the clothes washer at the same time. We don't.

I also ran the 1" PVC across the front of the house with 2 feeds with shutoffs into the house. The first feeds the 2 bathrooms in the bedrooms. The other is for the kitchen, laundry, and 1/2 bath. Each have their own hot water heater. That way we should always have a working bathroom and hot water if I have to shut off the water for a repair. As you get older your priorities change. :laughing:

 

[ovrszd]

Our situation is similar. Our house is 650' off the road. I have a 1" meter at the road and ran 1 1/2" PVC down the fence line. I branched off with 1" to the house and 1" to the shop and stables. I am buying a Micro Rain MR25 sprinkler reel for the arena so I checked pressure and GPM. Using two outside faucets on the house I have 90 PSI static and 75 PSI residual with the second faucet wide open flowing 10GPM. The wife routinely is flowing 2 sprinklers off of 100' 5/8" garden hoses in the arena without flow problems.

The cost for a bigger meter was negligible when we built in 2009. A regular 5/8" meter was $750, a 3/4" was $1000, and the 1" was $1250. As we are on a coop water system there was no impact fees or additional fees for a larger meter. The neighbors have 5/8" meters with 1" PVC. While that is adequate for the normal house usage they do notice a pressure drop when taking a shower and running the clothes washer at the same time. We don't.

I also ran the 1" PVC across the front of the house with 2 feeds with shutoffs into the house. The first feeds the 2 bathrooms in the bedrooms. The other is for the kitchen, laundry, and 1/2 bath. Each have their own hot water heater. That way we should always have a working bathroom and hot water if I have to shut off the water for a repair. As you get older your priorities change. :laughing:

Good stuff!!!!!

 

[dragoneggs]

I went with 1.5in pipe for my 250ft driveway a little uphill from the meter at the street. Worked great. All the watering I needed to support a 3000+ house with kids, a hot tub, and a Half acre of lawn/garden irrigation and more. Did need a pressure reducer at the entry to the house (garage) main shut off so not to overpressurize the house system. 2in seems reasonable especially if pressure is marginal. Good luck.