600' water line suggestions

[LD1]

A friend is getting ready to break ground for a new house build. Will be about 550' off the road.

Water company recommends 2" water line.

Black PE pipe is most common water line in our area, and probably the most affordable too.

The issue he is having is that in 2" size, the longest roll he can find is 500'. Sure, it can be made out of two pieces, either socket welded together, or a variety of other "approved" connections.....but I am of the opinion, as is he, that nothing will be as good as a continuous run of pipe. He has searched. I havent had much time to do any looking or googling.

So does anyone know of a source of 2" water pipe in 600' rolls? or other suggestions as a better alternative?

 

[RedNeckRacin]

could put in an access manhole with a shutoff valve at the joint. May not solve the 500' issue but it would be accessible and functional.

 

[fried1765]

A friend is getting ready to break ground for a new house build. Will be about 550' off the road.

Water company recommends 2" water line.

Black PE pipe is most common water line in our area, and probably the most affordable too.

The issue he is having is that in 2" size, the longest roll he can find is 500'. Sure, it can be made out of two pieces, either socket welded together, or a variety of other "approved" connections.....but I am of the opinion, as is he, that nothing will be as good as a continuous run of pipe. He has searched. I havent had much time to do any looking or googling.

So does anyone know of a source of 2" water pipe in 600' rolls? or other suggestions as a better alternative?

The world is covered with black poly pipe connected in various lengths.
I would not even to begin to worry about it.
Rather than a man hole (we can't call it that any more, I think it is now politically correct to call it a "peep hole") he could just plant a PT 4x4 to mark the joint, with the top of the 4x4 just below the surface.
Another option, might be to install a 2" x 1" x 2" reducing tee, and place a frost proof yard hydrant at that connection point, to mark the location. and have hose connection availability in that area as well.

 

[Peter 315]

I install water main use a union with the inserts it will never come apart ..

 

[dragoneggs]

I wouldn't worry one minute about the joint. As mentioned you could always mark it with a post or such and notate it on your plot plan. I wouldn't put a reducer on it though. If anything, if you wanted a frost free faucet, I would T off at that joint assuming it happens to be a smart location!

 

[JRobyn]

My contractor used the same stuff he runs miles of for the water utility district. SDR21. 20 ft lengths with o-ring joints. Water lines need to be able move just a little. They also put in 3 2" "sectionalizing" valves in little brick underground boxes so we can valve out a specific section for repair if it becomes damaged.

 

[ovrszd]

With the given information I'm left to speculate where the meter is located?

Once you go thru the meter, which is probably a 5/8", 2" pipe is huge overkill.

Would be like running 1 1/2" hydraulic hose from your FEL valve to the lift cylinder.

To the point of a splice. I agree with those above that say don't worry about it. There are hundreds of thousands of miles of water pipe with splices. This includes the district pipe that he's going to get his water from.

I'm running 450ft of 1" pipe to supply my new house and shop plus a hydrant on the way.

 

[LD1]

With the given information I'm left to speculate where the meter is located?

Once you go thru the meter, which is probably a 5/8", 2" pipe is huge overkill.

Would be like running 1 1/2" hydraulic hose from your FEL valve to the lift cylinder.

To the point of a splice. I agree with those above that say don't worry about it. There are hundreds of thousands of miles of water pipe with splices. This includes the district pipe that he's going to get his water from.

I'm running 450ft of 1" pipe to supply my new house and shop plus a hydrant on the way.

He said he looked it up online and pressure drop calculations call for 2". Same thing water co told him. Not sure if 5/8 or 3/4 meter

 

[bunyip]

We run 19mm-3/4" with a pressure reduction valve at the house end, is the standard domestic size here.
Trenched at 2' prevents any damage, we are about 400' from the meter.

 

[Oldoak]

He said he looked it up online and pressure drop calculations call for 2". Same thing water co told him.....................

Then that's what I would stick with. Don't change the pipe size recommended by the water company and also confirmed it with his own research.

What works for some one else may not be satisfactory for your friend. You don't know what pressure they are starting with compared to what you friends water utility company is providing to the point where he is tapping into.

 

[RNeumann]

I am of the opinion that a socket fused HDPE water line will be more than fine. I am also under the opinion you are chasing something that is wasting both of your time.
HDPE is used for gas and other applications that are under far more pressure than a little water line. A lot of those are “just” butt welded.
If you insist, spend the money on a piece of 6” pipe and put it vertical over the socket weld. You can inspect it as often as you want.

 

[ovrszd]

Pressure drop isn't why larger pipe is used. Flow rate is what to consider. The pressure only starts dropping when the flow rate of the pipe is approached.

Water and hydraulics operate under the same principles. As I asked earlier, why would a larger pipe be used than is necessary to keep up with the flow rate of a hydraulic valve, or water meter in this case.

If the meter is set at the public roadway and it is a 5/8", which is standard, or even a 3/4" it is completely unnecessary to run a 2" pipe.

But since the "professionals" say it's necessary then why would we worry about cost. Run the pipe that the "professionals" say is the best to use. Run what they used when they ran the main line.

A 5/8" meter with 3/4" fittings has a 15gpm rating. A 2" pipe is rated at 45gpm.

Sorry I distracted the discussion. Back to the question. Use quality couplers of whichever design your "professionals" recommend.

 

[ovrszd]

Not sure what source your friend used when he Googled. Here's a very comprehensive look at comparisons of pipe size. On the first chart look at the flow rate of a 3/4" pipe, assuming the meter is that size. Then look at the flow rate of a 2" pipe.

One of the subsequent charts gives flow rates at different pressures. Don't remember seeing a static pressure stated.

Maybe go back to the water company and retalk this. I think there's been a mistake. Also while there, ask the difference in cost of various pipe sizes.

How much water can flow through a pipe (GPM/GPH)?

 

[PILOON]

Be sure to use only brass for all joint & splices and use double clamps everywhere.
Also use high pressure piping or even the blue poly B that the well guys like. (125 PSI rated), not for the pressure as much as the mechanical strength.
Also to avoid any kinks while laying the line. (years later they will come back to haunt U)

 

[gary49]

I agree that 2" pipe is overkill unless your friend has some unusual flow requirements beyond what is usual for a residence. If he really needs 2" pipe I'd hate to have his water bill. I believe 1" pipe would do the job just fine. One thing to consider is that PE pipe has recently changed PSI ratings, so the 160# is much thinner walled than it was and hence prone to kinking. If you want the same kink resistance you are used to with the old 160# pipe you need to buy 250# pipe. This is not as big a deal if you're putting pipe in a ditch as it is when installing or hand pulling a submersible pump in a well, but I'd still recommend the 250# pipe.

 

[ovrszd]

Good points by Piloon and Gary.

 

[murph1]

Here in NE Ohio they use 1" copper and the meter would be in the house.

 

[ovrszd]

Here in NE Ohio they use 1" copper and the meter would be in the house.

I wondered if that was the case in this discussion? So your water company maintains everything thru the meter? They do here, but the meter is at the edge of the property.

 

[Peter 315]

Every town is different . The city we are doing now is to the property line 1'' copper connecting to 1-1/4 iron pipe or copper if the service has been updated

 

[bunyip]

Most meters here are on the front fence line to facilitate easy and fast reading by different meter readers who are not familiar with the areas in which they are working.
It was an unusual logical move made by Government when they controlled the water.