Rounded off drain plug

[4570Man]

Yes, square head.

View attachment 546567

Here's the current state of the plug. That bar should be removable, bolt on each end. The loader mounts to the frame on the front under the engine and to axle on the rear, just a support bar I suppose. Johnkn, I've tried those extractors as well, although the one I tried was the one that fit in it's current state. Once I remove the bar I'll look into using the next size down, 1/2". Bolt head would normally be 9/16"

Ok, but still use the right tool for the job. I don't see why a small pipe wrench wouldn't work. He's probably past the point of hammering a smaller socket on.

 

[Kando]

Ok, but still use the right tool for the job. I don't see why a small pipe wrench wouldn't work. He's probably past the point of hammering a smaller socket on.

Stated earlier, I can't get a pipe wrench to grip and stay. Tight spot makes it harder to tighten up the wrench, combined with the metal that's been bunched around, and I, personally, can't get it to work for me.

This post makes the third time I've stated this.

 

[Kando]

Once those plugs get to that point, they are a bear to get out. The easiest way I've found is to find a nut that will just slip over the square plug. Then weld the snot out of it. Then you can use the proper wrench to get it back out.

You can get a a set of 8 point impact sockets from harbor freight pretty reasonably that are designed for the square plugs.

My post near the end of page 3 states my inclination towards this option. However without the equipment and experience to do so myself, I'm left taking the tractor to the shop. One shop is one my grandfather has taken equipment to multiple times for welding work. Price isn't anywhere near as outrageous as a dealer. Another shop option is a bit closer but I've never dealt with them. Both are close enough to drive that tractor to myself rather than get it hauled.

 

[zzvyb6]

A relatively new small pipe wrench with sharp jaws will easily fit in that space. You don't adjust it after you engage the plug. Set it up to fit slightly loose, slip it back to front (i'd use the thread area showing in the picture to minimize the bending moment that will arise as you apply torque.). Then give the wrench a 30 degree turn to engage the self locking jaws and slip a water pipe onto the handle. It will continue to tighten as you apply torque. Something will give, I can assure you. I've pulled plugs like this out of old windmill crank cases more mutilated than yours. All it takes is a small wrench, maybe 8 - 10" in length.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Yes, square head.

View attachment 546567

Here's the current state of the plug. That bar should be removable, bolt on each end. The loader mounts to the frame on the front under the engine and to axle on the rear, just a support bar I suppose. Johnkn, I've tried those extractors as well, although the one I tried was the one that fit in it's current state. Once I remove the bar I'll look into using the next size down, 1/2". Bolt head would normally be 9/16"

Several of the ideas broached here should work. Another comes to mind after seeing the picture. Drill a 1/4 or 5/16" hole through the side in the threaded portion. Put a pin punch through the hole, put pressure on it while tapping in the buggered end. I have seen and done worse than this; not always easy but successful.

Ron

 

[Dftodd]

My post near the end of page 3 states my inclination towards this option. However without the equipment and experience to do so myself, I'm left taking the tractor to the shop. One shop is one my grandfather has taken equipment to multiple times for welding work. Price isn't anywhere near as outrageous as a dealer. Another shop option is a bit closer but I've never dealt with them. Both are close enough to drive that tractor to myself rather than get it hauled.

Doesn't hurt to ask the welding place. Might be able to get it done for a pizza and a sixer

 

[sixdogs]

I can understand not having the experience or tools to do the job. We've all been there. There's a learning curve to this type of trauma and it takes time and experience to get comfortable knowing what to do and when to do it. Most of us have been through things like this but he hasn't. He needs help and should get it. Next time around should be a whole different experience.

 

[4570Man]

This post makes the third time I've stated this.

Either you're using too big of a wrench, the wrench is junk or you’re not good at using one. That plug would come out with a pipe wrench. There's several other alternative options but that bar and lack of a welder limit them.

 

[Rock knocker]

Either you're using too big of a wrench, the wrench is junk or your not good at using one. That plug would come out with a pipe wrench. There's several other alternative options but that bar and lack of a welder limit them.

Yup..

 

[Johnkn]

If you simply don't feel comfortable moving forward by all means just take it to your trusted shop. My Snap-On and Craftsman bolt removal tools both mic up almost identical, 1 3/16" high. I've used them to remove bolts as ugly and even uglier than the pic you posted.

Take a deep breath, have an adult beverage, you'll get through this. I actually have a special small shelf on my workbench where I display the removed bolts in this situation to remind me what I have been through, and that there is light at the end of the tunnel. There are 2 from my bikes, a few from some of my Mustangs and Shelbys, and 1 from my Viper oil pan plug. The Viper was one of the worse, in an aluminum oil pan of all things. The bolt actually looks as bad or worse than your pic, but the tool backed it right out. Good luck!!

 

[pmsmechanic]

I don't know, since the old one lasted 60 years I might stick with steel.

It doesn't matter if it's brass or steel though brass will never rust to the steel. What's important is the six sided nut on the end. I never use square headed pipe plugs anywhere if I can help it.

 

[shaeff]

There's always light at the end of the tunnel, sometimes it's just farther away than we'd like.

Not tractor related, but applies to this situation:

2002 Toyota Tacoma, started to misfire badly. I narrowed it down to #3 fuel injector. Easy job, right? Well, both the bolts that hold the fuel rail in place snapped off dead even with the threaded holes in the aluminum head.

Galvanic corrosion is a serious pain. Bolt extractors stalled my 19.2v cordless drill, and my corded 3/8" drill. I didn't want to risk snapping the extractor off in the hole I drilled through the leftover bolt, so I kept stepping up bit sizes until all that remained were the bolt threads stuck in the threaded bung.

It was a smooth hole, but I could just barely see the outlines of the threads. Tried a thread chaser but it wouldn't grab, tried a tap, it grabbed and worked it back and forth until all remnants of the bolt were removed. Followed with the chaser, some new SS bolts with a liberal amount of anti-seize. Then I had to repeat the process for the rear bolt!

It was a 25 minute job that turned into a 4 hour job.

 

[Jstpssng]

Sometimes it's easier/cheaper to simply take it someplace which has the proper tools/experience for the job, as the OP has decided to do.
Hopefully they will get it out with no further complications.

 

[Egon]

Take it a shop. It should take them just a few minutes to get a pipe wrench on and remove it.

 

[Ortimber]

Either you're using too big of a wrench, the wrench is junk or you’re not good at using one. That plug would come out with a pipe wrench. There's several other alternative options but that bar and lack of a welder limit them.

Another vote for a small pipe wrench and maybe a short length of pipe for a cheater bar. You’d be amazed how much grip a decent pipe wrench will have on a plug like this.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Go ahead and drive it to the shop for drain plug removal since you have tried all the suggestions with no luck. Remember to take along your new oil and filter so you can fill the crankcase and ready it for its trip home. Have the shop weld on a new nut to the plug if it comes out clean with no thread damage. THEN put some Teflon tape on the plug threads when you reinstall it or a generous dosing of anti-seize. I prefer the Teflon tape because it wont wash or wear away in the oil pan.

I also think I would look at moving that FEL bracket so it isn't directly under the drain (PxxPoor design having it there to start with). This might be something your welding shop could do while it is there.

 

[downslope]

Go ahead and drive it to the shop for drain plug removal since you have tried all the suggestions with no luck. Remember to take along your new oil and filter so you can fill the crankcase and ready it for its trip home. Have the shop weld on a new nut to the plug if it comes out clean with no thread damage. THEN put some Teflon tape on the plug threads when you reinstall it or a generous dosing of anti-seize. I prefer the Teflon tape because it wont wash or wear away in the oil pan.

I also think I would look at moving that FEL bracket so it isn't directly under the drain (PxxPoor design having it there to start with). This might be something your welding shop could do while it is there.

I think he said it was hydraulic system being drained. Usually don't want to use Teflon near hydraulic.

Don't over think this job. Once broken loose could snug by hand and drive home to finish up. Install new plug and don't overtighten; just snug up with a little 1/2" X 9/16" wrench and done. Maybe invest in an 8 point socket, but not necessary.

 

[fried1765]

Another vote for a small pipe wrench and maybe a short length of pipe for a cheater bar. You’d be amazed how much grip a decent pipe wrench will have on a plug like like this.

From the picture, I would virtually guarantee that I could get that plug out with my 18" aluminum Rigid pipe wrench, and maybe a short cheater. Wrench is $60 at Home Depot.

 

[M5farms]

From the picture, I would virtually guarantee that I could get that plug out with my 18" aluminum Rigid pipe wrench, and maybe a short cheater. Wrench is $60 at Home Depot.

Yep, Ive got em out with alot less to work with .

 

[Ford850]

The problem with most pipe wrenches is the wide body of the wrench. The jaws are narrower than the body. Due to the wide flat bottom of the tranny pan and the short 1/2" length of the plug head, the body of the wrench will hold the jaws down far enough that they barely have any bite on the plug.