which portable generators do people have

[90cummins]

It was 8 degrees F below zero this morning and has been below zero for 3 days so I decided to see how my L70 Yanmar would start. It has not been started in 4 weeks.
After it started I manually controlled the throttle preventing full speed so oil pressure could build up. Oil psi was initially 50psi but slowly increased to 100 psi as it warmed up.
I connected generator to my inverter and turned off the utility power and ran it for 30 minutes powering entire house.
It started better than I expected, very pleased. You couldn稚 expect any engine to start any better.
It is a military spec engine with a 3 quart oil sump and bypass oil filter allowing 500 hour service intervals. It also has 2 intake grid heaters that preheat intake air and works quite well.
I bought this engine new because it had the features noted above allowing very long service and intake grid heaters for extreme cold weather operation.

Follow the link to a utube video of a minus 8 degree cold start.

Yanmar L70 generator minus 8 degrees cold start. - YouTube

 

[Garandman]

View attachment 534827


I just saw this awesome genset sell on E-Bay. Was sitting at a grand and sold for 3 grand. 500 something hours, 2 cylinder Diesel, (1800RPM) Air cooled. 5-6 KW, Single or 3 Phase. NEVER seen one like it. Three fuel pumps. Had it's own tank, or you could pump out of a 55 gallon drum.

Now, THAT is a portable generator! Might still be a tad noisy though for being air cooled.

I was tempted but not for 3 grand. Curious if anybody ever had bad experience buying used military gensets. Everything looks so unfamiliar.

Some people buy them from US military auctions, some are resold on places like eBay, and there are even companies that specialize in supporting them , like Green Mountain Generators

As you might imagine, these units are speced to run at rated capacity even at temperature extremes. If you Store diesel or heat with oil and have frequent outages, they have their advantages. And disadvantages. Compare

http://www.deweyelectronics.com/assets/pdfs/spec-sheets/Rev-MEP-531A-120V-AC-Specification-Sheet.pdf

and

YDG-W 37 | Yanmar Diesel Generator

 

[Travelover]

for those of you actually interested in using an inverter, they now make hybrid inverters, that have "generator support", how it works is, when a large load comes on, and the generator dips, the inverter is in passthrough mode. once its see's the dip, the inverter goes into inverter mode and assists the generator via its battery's to power through the surge to allow a smaller generator to power bigger surge loads, i have primary seen them installed in RV's. these inverters also charge the batterys back up at the same time.

be aware these type of inverters are not that cheap

This is a neat approach. Instead of oversizing the generator, you have it work with an inverter. When the generator struggles, like on start up of an electric motor, the inverter helps out off a battery for a few seconds. Yamaha does this with an electric starting generator. Additionally Victron makes an inverter that passes through power from a generator and helps as needed.

 

[3930dave]

As I previously stated, I was looking to upgrade from an Onan I currently have. Was hoping to power the whole house but, it appears I don't have sufficient tractor horsepower to do that so, I'll stick with what I've got. BTW, compared to where Dave is, my heat requirements are insignificant.

Spent way more time in cold country while I was in the military that I do not wish to repeat, not my idea of a good time. If that's what you like, I'm all for you but, it's not for me. KY is just about right. Have all four seasons and they are all about 3 months long. I like it that way.

The house is all electric. We have a propane fireplace, won't be adding a pellet, wood or coal option to it. My fireplace is a fake, doesn't even have a chimney. So, the previously mentioned heat sources are not an option.

Rams :drink:

If your heat needs are really low, then combustions sources probably aren't worth pursuing.... that said, most modern residential furnaces and pellet stoves are direct-vent. 2 ABS pipes through the wall, done. Nobody wants to pay the cost of a chimney, if you can avoid it.....

(Edit - "fake" stuck in my mind initially... sounds like your fireplace is direct-vent).

Rgds, D.

 

[90cummins]

This is a neat approach. Instead of oversizing the generator, you have it work with an inverter. When the generator struggles, like on start up of an electric motor, the inverter helps out off a battery for a few seconds. Yamaha does this with an electric starting generator. Additionally Victron makes an inverter that passes through power from a generator and helps as needed.

This system you describe is what I have.
Xantrex XW4024 Hybrid Inverter with Generator Assist which allows me to operate with a 3.7kw generator.
Very happy with how it operates.
90cummins

 

[Old Red]

Some people buy them from US military auctions, some are resold on places like eBay, and there are even companies that specialize in supporting them , like Green Mountain Generators

As you might imagine, these units are speced to run at rated capacity even at temperature extremes. If you Store diesel or heat with oil and have frequent outages, they have their advantages. And disadvantages. Compare

http://www.deweyelectronics.com/assets/pdfs/spec-sheets/Rev-MEP-531A-120V-AC-Specification-Sheet.pdf

and

YDG-W 37 | Yanmar Diesel Generator

Yes, I bought a 10KW diesel 1800 RPM military generator back in September. Had 33 hours on it. 2007 model. Thing is freaking AWESOME! Will run both my 5 ton and 2.5 ton heat pump at the same time. Way under rated. I have the aux fuel kit for it as well. I have it sitting in my garage on top of caster wheels and can just plug in panel and fire it up to run my house.

 

[blackrams]

If your heat needs are really low, then combustions sources probably aren't worth pursuing.... that said, most modern residential furnaces and pellet stoves are direct-vent. 2 ABS pipes through the wall, done. Nobody wants to pay the cost of a chimney, if you can avoid it.....

(Edit - "fake" stuck in my mind initially... sounds like your fireplace is direct-vent).

Rgds, D.

My heat needs are relatively low, my wife's are not. Only person I've known who sleeps with the heated mattress cover and a heating blanket on top of her. Ya never know till it's too late.

Fake chimney means just that. We have a ventless propane logs set up.

While I'm on the subject, what the heck were the HVAC installers thinking when they put the thermostat on the opposing wall to the fireplace?:banghead: Light a fire and the rest of the house gets cold!!! It doesn't take a rocket scientist to know that ain't gonna work.

Rams

 

[ultrarunner]

My heat needs are relatively low, my wife's are not. Only person I've known who sleeps with the heated mattress cover and a heating blanket on top of her. Ya never know till it's too late.

Fake chimney means just that. We have a ventless propane logs set up.

While I'm on the subject, what the heck were the HVAC installers thinking when they put the thermostat on the opposing wall to the fireplace?:banghead: Light a fire and the rest of the house gets cold!!! It doesn't take a rocket scientist to know that ain't gonna work.

Rams

Maybe to prevent/limit simultaneous furnace and fireplace operation?

One of the guys at work had a nice fire going and the furnace started... as soon as the blower started the fireplace back-drafted... pulled the flames right though the metal fireplace screen...

His question is why did the installers put the thermostat in the hall instead of in the same room as the fireplace?

 

[Industrial Toys]

I have said this before and people should pay attention. Often the fuse or breaker rating on a generator exceeds the capacity of the generator, especially in continuous duty. One, they only make standard rated protection devices and two, you do need to allow for motor starts.

So, if you keep experimenting as to how much stuff you can put on there, well maybe one day your set will be fried. Also, it may be able to run several motors until it tries to start them at the same time.

My best solution is to install a motor type overload device. It can be set to a very specific current but also allow for starting.

 

[goeduck]

Maybe to prevent/limit simultaneous furnace and fireplace operation?

One of the guys at work had a nice fire going and the furnace started... as soon as the blower started the fireplace back-drafted... pulled the flames right though the metal fireplace screen...

His question is why did the installers put the thermostat in the hall instead of in the same room as the fireplace?

Sounds like his furnace was discharging supply air into the attic, garage or somewhere. The house should have had the same supply air as return air. Should be equal and no suction on the fireplace.

 

[ultrarunner]

Split or tri-level home... supply ducts in downstair's rumpus room and the entire top floor.

One return air off the living room... now that you mention it... they did keep the door to the ground level rumpus room closed and locked.

Never hear the word rumpus room anymore but it was a "Thing" back in the 50's with the county tax assessor... basically a rumpus room was valued at 3/4 of regular living space since it was on grade with slab floor.

 

[3930dave]

Fake chimney means just that. We have a ventless propane logs set up.

Rams

10-4.

Didn't know what's common down your way; direct-vent is easy and cheap to install - surprisingly so, if you've never seen one....

Rgds, D.

 

[grsthegreat]

i get a kick out of people saying that only an inverter generator is safe for electronics. or a 4 cycle engine is only good for 1,000 hours. ive been working on 10 year old generators with 4,000+ hours on them and there still running strong. Ive been working on NON inverter generators that power cell phone towers without any issues. you dont get any more electronics than the junk inside those towers.

any generator will last with proper maintenance. what i see is most people never maintain their generators. i had my old generator for 19 years, and i purchased it used. i changed oil every year whether it was used or not, and i kept a block heater and battery charger on it. always started when needed.

where i also see issues are on the HF generators. ive placed meters on these units and see alot of frequency issues in these units. during our last wind storms, i had a customer fry their fridge and tv from a predator generator they had just purchased. one outlet was showing 170+ volts and the other was in the 70v range. harbor freight only offered an exchange. im not sure what they are doing about the appliance losses.

i have a real old Coleman 3500 watt generator that has finally given up the ghost. im not even sure how old it is, as i bought it at auction over 20 years ago. I replaced it with a briggs and stratton 5,000/6,500 watt semi portable generator (its portable if your Arnold Schwarzenegger). this unit fires up with only a few tugs of the cord. runs strong. i only use non ethanol fuel.

 

[LittleBill21]

i get a kick out of people saying that only an inverter generator is safe for electronics. or a 4 cycle engine is only good for 1,000 hours. ive been working on 10 year old generators with 4,000+ hours on them and there still running strong. Ive been working on NON inverter generators that power cell phone towers without any issues. you dont get any more electronics than the junk inside those towers.

i will say that alot of stuff if not designed to be used on generator has issues with non inverter generators and the reason is due to frequency hold. my cheap ups require +/- .5 hz. none of my non inverter generators will hold that tight, usually 1-2 hz.

are u saying that the telco's run straight off ac? i was allways under the impression they used dc48v to power everything and ac was just used for charging/converting.

 

[RSKY]

i get a kick out of people saying that only an inverter generator is safe for electronics. or a 4 cycle engine is only good for 1,000 hours. ive been working on 10 year old generators with 4,000+ hours on them and there still running strong. Ive been working on NON inverter generators that power cell phone towers without any issues. you dont get any more electronics than the junk inside those towers.

any generator will last with proper maintenance. what i see is most people never maintain their generators. i had my old generator for 19 years, and i purchased it used. i changed oil every year whether it was used or not, and i kept a block heater and battery charger on it. always started when needed.

where i also see issues are on the HF generators. ive placed meters on these units and see alot of frequency issues in these units. during our last wind storms, i had a customer fry their fridge and tv from a predator generator they had just purchased. one outlet was showing 170+ volts and the other was in the 70v range. harbor freight only offered an exchange. im not sure what they are doing about the appliance losses.

i have a real old Coleman 3500 watt generator that has finally given up the ghost. im not even sure how old it is, as i bought it at auction over 20 years ago. I replaced it with a briggs and stratton 5,000/6,500 watt semi portable generator (its portable if your Arnold Schwarzenegger). this unit fires up with only a few tugs of the cord. runs strong. i only use non ethanol fuel.

Your last sentence is the most important in your post. I have ruined a generator by leaving ethanol gas in it. Ruined a chainsaw by leaving ethanol gas/oil mix in it. If it is going to be used up immediately then ethanol gas is okay. If the generator/chainsaw/lawnmower/whatever is going to be sitting for a month or six then don't leave ethanol gas in the tank.

Also if something is going to be sitting for a while I always put in the highest weight oil recommended. It will stick to the cylinder walls/bearings etc. better than the multi-viscosity oils. Or so I have been told.

RSKY

 

[grsthegreat]

i will say that alot of stuff if not designed to be used on generator has issues with non inverter generators and the reason is due to frequency hold. my cheap ups require +/- .5 hz. none of my non inverter generators will hold that tight, usually 1-2 hz.

are u saying that the telco's run straight off ac? i was allways under the impression they used dc48v to power everything and ac was just used for charging/converting.

ive seen generators just linked directly into their line side. Not sure what all that junk inside the buildings do. I dont do that kind of electrical work. They may have some kind of conversion going on. Ive had generators powering up my computers, high tech appliances fir years, and have never had an issue. But last year i finally added a ups to my computer when costco had a sale on them.

 

[90cummins]

As RSKY mentioned you need to check voltage & HZ on a regular basis to verify it is within permissible range.
My Generac XL 4000 had significant voltage drop at 3500 watts and it was rated a 4kw’s.
A kilawatt meter is essential to verify voltage, hz and load.
90cummins

 

[frugalangler]

i get a kick out of people saying that only an inverter generator is safe for electronics. or a 4 cycle engine is only good for 1,000 hours. ive been working on 10 year old generators with 4,000+ hours on them and there still running strong. Ive been working on NON inverter generators that power cell phone towers without any issues. you dont get any more electronics than the junk inside those towers.

the cell tower generators work because the cell equipment runs off of either 24DC or 48DC, and the generator just powers the chargers for the battery banks

 

[LouNY]

a generator should provide cleaner sine wave power then an inverter, every inverter out there is producing square wave power some may modify it by using multiple square waves to get closer to a sine wave
but it's still square wave power, some of the better ones will get close to a true sine wave. Put an oscilloscope on them and check as well as a frequency meter and an RMS voltmeter.

 

[KubotainNH]

As RSKY mentioned you need to check voltage & HZ on a regular basis to verify it is within permissible range.
My Generac XL 4000 had significant voltage drop at 3500 watts and it was rated a 4kw’s.
A kilawatt meter is essential to verify voltage, hz and load.
90cummins

I also had one of those, supposed to be the quiet unit. Not so much but I guess quieter than some. I put an hour/rpm meter on it to make sure it stayed at the proper RPM to give the correct frequency. Not an concern with my current inverter gen which I've used a bunch of times with no issues. What pushed me to the rpm meter was my friend's XL4000 burnt out his well pump. I suppose it could have been a coincidence but better safe than sorry.