Backhoe Need Advice on JD110 Backhoe Arm

[MH110]

Hi all,

Need some advice RE: the backhoe arm on my JD 110. The lower pin [circled in diagram] is pretty loose, but when I checked the diagram, I didn't see a serviceable bushing, just a pin. Is this a repairable item or does JD recommend replacing the whole arm? It's clear the PO neglected greasing this particular pivot!

Thanks!

 

[texasranger556]

You could get it welded and line bored, likely for a fraction of the price of a new dipper.

 

[MH110]

You could get it welded and line bored, likely for a fraction of the price of a new dipper.

I was thinking something along those lines...a replacement arm is in the $3-4k range!!

 

[MH110]

You could get it welded and line bored, likely for a fraction of the price of a new dipper.

The people I have talked to so far mentioned boring it out slightly and inserting a custom bushing to fit a stock pin. Is there enough meat on the end of the arm/stick to do this? I could possibly bore it on my vertical mill if I could find the right tooling for that.

 

[texasranger556]

Hard to say. I'd take the bucket off and see if you can tell how thick the pin tubes are. It would be a project trying to get the dipper arm aligned on your mill.

If you have some machine tools already and like building stuff look into a basic line boring setup. I've seen several home built examples varying in complexity and will eventually build one myself. Just depends how much you value your time as to the economics of building something yourself to have available again in the future or paying someone else if you're not likely to use it again.

 

[kuboman]

Seems odd that they would not service that with a bushing. There likely wont be enough material to bore out and have any kind of bushing thick enough to have any strength. A good welder can have the old ones cut out and new ones welded in. Wouldn't cost much and would be good as new.

 

[MH110]

Finally took the bucket off and I was surprised to see that the dipperstick bore wasn't nearly as bad as the bucket bores! The pins are shot. Is there a spec on the diameter of that lower bore? Yup, I confirmed no bushing on mine which is just plain stupid! The nice thing is that there is some meat on there to make this repair. That bucket was toast when I got it...but I do have a replacement 18" bucket with "quick" connect coupler when I get this other stuff sorted.

 

[AKfish]

I'll take look at the Technical repair manual for possible specs on the pin. The Original owner would have had a good excuse for never greasing those pins... The zerks are ground to a nubbin'!

Osage orange cranium...?

 

[beenthere]

If the greaser was responsible, then would have replaced the zerks so they'd take grease, not use them being ground away as an excuse to skip..
just sayin....

 

[Zoomeroo]

Mine is also loose. They are not servicable, Yet.

I am making a new pin boss that will accept bushings.
I bought a new pin, $100.00.

Once machined i will replace the current one. Actually not a big job for me.

John Deere bushings are way too much money.
I meed to find someplace to buy reasonable bushings.

 

[MH110]

I'll take look at the Technical repair manual for possible specs on the pin. The Original owner would have had a good excuse for never greasing those pins... The zerks are ground to a nubbin'!

Osage orange cranium...?

Thanks, I'd be curious to see how far out of spec it is...yeah they really didn't grease a lot on this tractor, which is pretty disappointing. I'm going through the process of cleaning, re-greasing, and replacing zirc fittings throughout.

If the greaser was responsible, then would have replaced the zerks so they'd take grease, not use them being ground away as an excuse to skip..
just sayin....

Yeah, I'd like to have a little chat with the jerk PO!

Mine is also loose. They are not servicable, Yet.

I am making a new pin boss that will accept bushings.
I bought a new pin, $100.00.

Once machined i will replace the current one. Actually not a big job for me.

John Deere bushings are way too much money.
I meed to find someplace to buy reasonable bushings.

Please do post some photos when you do, I'm sure many have this same issue. Have you checked out Mcmaster Carr for replaceable bushings? They have a pretty huge inventory.

Does anyone know how much play is acceptable?

 

[Zoomeroo]

According to the JD parts magician, thete is .010 play between pin and bushing to permit grease to flow. He also says seal should be installed. Both seal and bushing is very expensive, too expensive for me.
He looked in the parts and found another machine with the same size shaft. Then got the matching bushing size.
I might incoorperate an O Ring and flat washer as a kind of sesl.

This project wont start until "T" day time.

I have to finish my top and tilt first.

 

[AKfish]

According to the JD parts magician, thete is .010 play between pin and bushing to permit grease to flow. He also says seal should be installed. Both seal and bushing is very expensive, too expensive for me.
He looked in the parts and found another machine with the same size shaft. Then got the matching bushing size.
I might incoorperate an O Ring and flat washer as a kind of sesl.

This project wont start until "T" day time.

I have to finish my top and tilt first.

The tech manual doesn't specify the pin dimensions or clearance specifications, either. Just illustrates disassembly and the bushing, bearing, and seal driver set - DO1044AA.

Best reference would be JDParts.com and a "whiz-bang" parts guy @ your local dealer!

I'm pretty **** about maintaining equipment! Downtime sucks and the cost of repair and replacement parts from JD sucks even more!

I've got about 1,700hrs now on my 110 and probably 1/2 of those are hoe hours. There's some pin slop but not anything like most of the rental equipment I've used over the years.

I'd think that even if you find a an oversize replacement pin and machine it to fit, the dipper stick will still have to be line-bored. Interested to hear how everything works out. Best of luck.

 

[MH110]

According to the JD parts magician, thete is .010 play between pin and bushing to permit grease to flow. He also says seal should be installed. Both seal and bushing is very expensive, too expensive for me.
He looked in the parts and found another machine with the same size shaft. Then got the matching bushing size.
I might incoorperate an O Ring and flat washer as a kind of sesl.

This project wont start until "T" day time.

I have to finish my top and tilt first.

Where would the seal be installed? Or are you talking about if you were to bore out the existing passage for a replaceable bushing? See if you can get the dimensions of that bushing? Then we can look around at non-JD sources which would likely be much cheaper.

I have some new pins, so I can measure the pin dimension if anyone needs it.

 

[MH110]

Now that the tractor is home with me, I've been thinking about this a little more. I can take the dipperstick off and line it up on my vertical mill...or I guess I could use my lathe, but I think the mill is more accurate and easier to control precise movements. They make cutting bits in just about any orientation/size that I might need.

New pins are 1.375" in diameter, and I have somewhere between 0.125-0.225" of slop in the bottom bore with no serviceable/replaceable bushing. If I could bore it out to about 1.625", a bushing similar to below might work. I could even put a grease groove and grease holes in very easily. It still boggles my mind that JD didn't put a replaceable bushing here and some other spots on the tractor...WTF.

Something similar to this below could potentially work. With the dipperstick off, it would be very easy to press into the bore.

 

[AKfish]

A replaceable bushing would seem to be a "no brainer". Sometimes the engineers run head first into the "bean counters"... This could be an example of that at JD.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I have had good luck using a shaft coupling (they are forged steel) the same size as the pin and welding a short piece of in a drilled out or O/A burned hole. An expandable reamer (like HF has) will ream out to the clearance for grease.

Ron

 

[jpolcyn]

I had the same problem on my 110. I simply made a bushing running the whole length of the dipper stick drilled a hole in for grease to pass through. Good as new.

No idea why JD did what they did there.

 

[MH110]

I had the same problem on my 110. I simply made a bushing running the whole length of the dipper stick drilled a hole in for grease to pass through. Good as new.

No idea why JD did what they did there.

What material did you make the bushing out of? Was it hardened?

How has it held up?

I'm also curious what tolerance you used between pin -> ID and OD -> bore.

 

[jpolcyn]

My holes were wore pretty good. Where yours just from looking at the pictures look to be in better shape. (need to put mics on it to see for sure).

My pin was also froze into the dipper stick and i had to make a new pin as the old one was destroyed trying to get it out.

The material was just a c1018 cold rolled steel. I did not harden it afterwards. The pin however was 4340 Q&T. I'd rather make bushings then a new pin!

I can not remember exact OD/ID as it has been awhile but i want to say less than 0.01

So far it is holding up well. At least i know grease is going where it should and not ruining my dipperstick.

Hope this helps