How to attach the 3ph lowr linkd?

[jodebg]

Just purchased a B2650 with the pin style stabilizers and the extensions on the ends of the lower links.

I am used to using the threaded stabilizer and the basic lower link design.

Hoping I could get up to speed with how to use the extensions and the
pin style stabilizers. Thanks in advance.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I believe you will like them. Nothing tricky. What I do hooking up is to lower the link arms and extend the extensions. Pull out the stabilizer pins inserting the clips in the pin holes (if you have clips and holes thru the pins-some don't) so you won't loose the clips. Then depending on the pin/clevis arrangement on the Implement either hold the lower links where you want them by inserting the stabilizer pins upside down in the stabilizer bar or let the pins hang on the little chains so the link arms swing free. Back to the implement and hook up adjusting the link ends as required. When all hooked up I raise the implement a little and use a bar under the implement to lever the link arm extensions locked closed. Do a final left right adjustment with the telescoping stabilizers and pin them properly with the clips.

Clear as mud ??? You will get your own method. Long as you make sure the extensions are locked and stabilizers pinned you will be good to go.

gg

 

[ovrszd]

I do it just the opposite.

With the arms pinned at approximately the right width, I backed up to the impliment adjusting the 3pt height to match the pin height of the attachment. Stop just as the 3pt links touch the pins. Dismount and remove the telescoping pins, swimg the arm outward and extend the arm, swing inward capturing the pin, reinstall the telescoping pin. After everything is attached I remount the tractor and raise the 3pt, this usually relatches the extendable arm. If not, lower the attachment to the ground and gently backup until they latch.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Hmmm...I never do things the easy way Richard :laughing:

I do the same thing to lock them but some times, depending a lot on the top link geometry and the implement, a bar to lever them latched seems much easier. I always have one with me anyway to scooch the implement around a little.

 

[ericm979]

I lift the implement and then insert the stabilizer's pins. That way I can get the slack out of the stabilizers, and get the implement aligned with the tire edge if appropriate. But this should only be done on level ground. If the tractor is on a slde slope the implement will clang against the stop as it swings to the low side.

 

[jodebg]

Thanks for all of the advise.

Another question...Is there a better way to use the top link, nut closer to the machine or closer to the attachment?

 

[ovrszd]

Good question John.

I always put the nut end toward the tractor. I have no idea why. But it's a habit now.

 

[Spanner]

My understanding of it is:
The nut-end is towards the tractor since the days of Harry Ferguson and the invention of the 3PH.
When ploughing, the operator could turn and unlock the Top Link, adjust as necessary and re-tighten the lock-nut without needing to get down off his seat onto the muddy ground.
If the nut is at the implement end he couldn't physically reach to unlock.
Of course seats were the low-back metal pans and easier to turn around in, with no ROPS etc.
:2cents:

:wrench:

 

[ovrszd]

You were doing soooo good until you talked about ploughing on muddy ground.....

 

[jodebg]

If my memory serves me correctly, dosen't JD use pins with an embeded spring loaded ball bearing instead of having to use clips?

Wonder if the JD pins would fit the Kubota adjusters-quick and easy??

I believe you will like them. Nothing tricky. What I do hooking up is to lower the link arms and extend the extensions. Pull out the stabilizer pins inserting the clips in the pin holes (if you have clips and holes thru the pins-some don't) so you won't loose the clips. Then depending on the pin/clevis arrangement on the Implement either hold the lower links where you want them by inserting the stabilizer pins upside down in the stabilizer bar or let the pins hang on the little chains so the link arms swing free. Back to the implement and hook up adjusting the link ends as required. When all hooked up I raise the implement a little and use a bar under the implement to lever the link arm extensions locked closed. Do a final left right adjustment with the telescoping stabilizers and pin them properly with the clips.

Clear as mud ??? You will get your own method. Long as you make sure the extensions are locked and stabilizers pinned you will be good to go.

gg

 

[Spanner]

You were doing soooo good until you talked about ploughing on muddy ground.....

Hi Richard,
He was in the UK. I guess the weather was a factor...

 

[ovrszd]

Didn't notice that. Probly.

 

[LD1]

I too was used to threaded stabilizers on my L3400.

My MX5100 has telescoping ones.

IMO, both designs have flaws.

For the telescoping ones, I hoop the implement up, then push the implement where I want it and drop the pin in.

But the issue is it is impossible to get ALL the sway out of the system like with the turnbuckle style. The result is I wear out (bend) the lynch pins holding the implement on pretty regularly. HEavy implement with a few inches of side to side movement gets a little momentum (not much) when turning. Just enough that I go through a couple sets of lynch pins in the summer.

 

[kneedeep]

If my memory serves me correctly, dosen't JD use pins with an embeded spring loaded ball bearing instead of having to use clips?

Wonder if the JD pins would fit the Kubota adjusters-quick and easy??

Those are for bigger tractors, Cat 3 and 4. Too big for Cat 2 equipment and tractors.

 

[milkman]

If my memory serves me correctly, dosen't JD use pins with an embeded spring loaded ball bearing instead of having to use clips?

Wonder if the JD pins would fit the Kubota adjusters-quick and easy??

I just measured the diameter of the pin and went to Lowes and found the correct size pin with the spring loaded ball, have used the same ones for several years.

 

[jodebg]

Great news...on my way to Lowes. Thanks

 

[ovrszd]

I too was used to threaded stabilizers on my L3400.

My MX5100 has telescoping ones.

IMO, both designs have flaws.

For the telescoping ones, I hoop the implement up, then push the implement where I want it and drop the pin in.

But the issue is it is impossible to get ALL the sway out of the system like with the turnbuckle style. The result is I wear out (bend) the lynch pins holding the implement on pretty regularly. HEavy implement with a few inches of side to side movement gets a little momentum (not much) when turning. Just enough that I go through a couple sets of lynch pins in the summer.

Oh wow, I've never heard of that. I stress the snot out of my telescoping stabilizers on my Kubota and Ford. Have never bent a pin. Wonder what's causing that?

Not picking on you, just saying, my Kubota carries a 1500lb BB regularly and doesn't bend pins. Just trying to understand how your problem is happening?

 

[LD1]

Oh wow, I've never heard of that. I stress the snot out of my telescoping stabilizers on my Kubota and Ford. Have never bent a pin. Wonder what's causing that?

Not picking on you, just saying, my Kubota carries a 1500lb BB regularly and doesn't bend pins. Just trying to understand how your problem is happening?

I do mow pretty fast. Usually full speed in M range if terrain and vegetation allow. Thats about 7.5 MPH. Though I dont turn that fast......when I get to the end, backing up and cutting the wheel, then going forward and turning the other direction, that few inches of side to side movement takes its toll as the cutter is thrown from one end to the other.

It is a 1620# cutter too. Dont think like a farmer out slowly mowing hay. Think more like a zeroturn when Im in a field. Small nimble HST MX5100.
And I do mow 400-500 acres a year in the form of mostly 3-5 acre plots. So its ALOT of turning. I have just accepted the fact this is the way its going to be.

I would like to design something like a telescoping link, that ALSO has a threaded portion to take up that last bit of slop. So I would have the speed and convince of the telescoping for everything else, then when I put the hog on I can tighten it down that last little bit.

 

[DieselBound]

I've never really gotten anything tight. Part of my reasoning is that with a bit of give if I hit something (and especially something I DON'T want to hit) there's a bit of give: I suspect that it's paid off in a couple of my meetings with buildings.

Anyone who thinks they mow fast needs to come see what I do with my B7800! (actually, ANYTHING I do with it!) I literally have the thing spinning around trees (root crowns) such that I'm almost on two wheels! The speed takes a toll on the body. Getting back to the link arms...

I HATE the turnbuckle adjusters. And I hate the system on my B7800 especially because the arms flop all over the place: I have to play a game of Twister in hooking stuff up (again, I do stuff that really ought not be done, but it works for me). Never have found the time to fabricate something to hold the arms apart: no sooner would I get it right that I'd find that it interferes with hooking up!

The telescoping arms on my NX are a godsend. And, well, given the increased size of implements one can't readily (read "at all") physically assist in positioning them. I can hook stuff up a lot faster on the NX than I can on the B7800.

 

[ovrszd]

I do mow pretty fast. Usually full speed in M range if terrain and vegetation allow. Thats about 7.5 MPH. Though I dont turn that fast......when I get to the end, backing up and cutting the wheel, then going forward and turning the other direction, that few inches of side to side movement takes its toll as the cutter is thrown from one end to the other.

It is a 1620# cutter too. Dont think like a farmer out slowly mowing hay. Think more like a zeroturn when Im in a field. Small nimble HST MX5100.
And I do mow 400-500 acres a year in the form of mostly 3-5 acre plots. So its ALOT of turning. I have just accepted the fact this is the way its going to be.

I would like to design something like a telescoping link, that ALSO has a threaded portion to take up that last bit of slop. So I would have the speed and convince of the telescoping for everything else, then when I put the hog on I can tighten it down that last little bit.

I'll make a note of your idea. Next Winter when I'm looking for shop projects I'll see what I can come up with.