Welding up a toothbar

TXHF · Jul 21, 2017

I got those teeth in. One of them is defective... doesn't fit on any of the toothbars. I'll try and Dremel it.

Question... did you use a stick welder? I only have a MIG and I'm concerned it will not penetrate enough for a strong weld. Maybe I'll tack them with the MIG and take it to a welder to finish the work.

katoomed00 · Jul 21, 2017

I got the 72" 9 tooth for my TYM T503 from Titan. I welded it up with a stick welder and wasn't paying attention to how hot I got the flat bar, ended up with a bow. It wasn't a big deal, took a small hydraulic jack and chain to straighten it out. The reason I purchased it was to move and spread about 500 yards of clay dirt mounds. The dirt had been sitting there about 2 yrs and over time I had already spread about 500 yards, so I got this to see if it would help out. What I found was that even though the clay dirt seemed hard on the outside the inside was still soft enough that the dirt wouldn't just break up and that I still had to work the bucket to get a full load. It did seem to help a little and I have no regrets in the purchase, it will get used.

PILOON · Jul 21, 2017

katoomed00 said:
I got the 72" 9 tooth for my TYM T503 from Titan. I welded it up with a stick welder and wasn't paying attention to how hot I got the flat bar, ended up with a bow. It wasn't a big deal, took a small hydraulic jack and chain to straighten it out. The reason I purchased it was to move and spread about 500 yards of clay dirt mounds. The dirt had been sitting there about 2 yrs and over time I had already spread about 500 yards, so I got this to see if it would help out. What I found was that even though the clay dirt seemed hard on the outside the inside was still soft enough that the dirt wouldn't just break up and that I still had to work the bucket to get a full load. It did seem to help a little and I have no regrets in the purchase, it will get
used.

LOL my bar also curved but then a 10 lb sledge installed it OK
I like the bar soo much that I never even attempted to remove it.

otlski · Jul 22, 2017

I used a big old 240 VAC MIG from the 1980's. These days it only works on the highest settings and feeds. I converted over to flux core a few projects ago and this was yet another practice project for me. I have not run the tooth bar through the ringer yet but I believe I got good penetration (better with flux core?). For the side pieces that bolt to the bucket itself, I pre-dressed bevels and welded both sides, ground the welds almost flush, then put the tooth holders on. I also had problems with heat bending; clamps and hammers convinced the toothbar that it really wanted to be mounted.

TXHF · Jul 22, 2017

Those of you with heat warping, we're you using 1/2" thick flat stock?

katoomed00 · Jul 23, 2017

I believe it was 3/8"

katoomed00 · Jul 23, 2017

TXHF said:
Those of you with heat warping, we're you using 1/2" thick flat stock?

I believe it was 3/8"

otlski · Jul 23, 2017

Mine bent; it was 1/2". It came with this kit.
Amazon.com: Titan Attachments 72" Custom Toothbar Kit w/6 23TF Teeth & Shanks Skid Steer DIY: Home Improvement
The detailed description gives the dimensions of the pieces.

bdog · Jul 24, 2017

The one on the end. I bought bolt on teeth from the local bobcat dealer and welded them on one of my skid steer buckets. Used 5P+ and 7018. I was kind of concerned how they would hold as they were not designed to weld. The other day we were pulling out some old pipe fence made of 2-3/8" oilfield pipe. We cut the top rail on each side of the posts which were set 4' deep in concrete. The first few we used a chain and then I got lazy and just stuck a tooth in the little section of horizontal pipe still on the post and lifted hard. These posts were in the ground so good my 6,000 lb lift skid steer was struggling and I had to wiggle the posts around to get them to break free but the teeth held.

TXHF · Jul 24, 2017

I've got a steel dealer about 4 miles from here so I'll give them a call. For welding, I guess I can MIG but work on each tooth a little at a time to keep the heat down and stack welds after thorough cleaning each. We absolutely need it during the dry season and I'll likely never take them off after they are installed. Thanks!!

mopardude318 · Jul 27, 2017

mike69440 said:
I'm kind of surprised doing the following is not more popular.
What I found is really durable and not prone to catching material in the bucket is to Buy an extra cutting edge for when you want a flat edge, and weld on ESCO Ultralokｮ Teeth.
They are really premium quality teeth, and a snap to replace.

ESCO Corporation |
Ultralok(R) Tooth System

Theses people will help with sizing and have decent prices.
Bucket Teeth For Excavator, Backhoe, Bulldozer, Skid Steer

Only 11 Plow bolts hold my edge on and I used:
Plow Bolts | Grade 8 Plow Bolts | Grade 8 Plow Bolts - GlobalIndustrial.com

If I want a flat edge it is not hard to change over, however with a 2x2 x1/2" angle with bolt on cutting edge on the back of my bucket, I use that for quick back dragging and grading.

Mike I might try that...Do you remember what part number you went with for those UltraLok teeth? I imagine the base of those teeth slip right over the cutting edge? I'm not a welder, but my brother can certainly do it.

I definitely found out I need a tooth bar! Some swear by that Piranha tooth bar, or the other WR long you recommended, which seems like it may do a better job of all out digging compared to the Piranha...

mike69440 · Jul 31, 2017

TXHF said:
I've got a steel dealer about 4 miles from here so I'll give them a call. For welding, I guess I can MIG but work on each tooth a little at a time to keep the heat down and stack welds after thorough cleaning each. We absolutely need it during the dry season and I'll likely never take them off after they are installed. Thanks!!

You need plenty of heat for deep weld penetration to get a tooth to hold. Weld up bar bolted to bucket. Make sure top weld is still hot when you do the bottom, etc. maybe Preheat, but do not heat the tips.

TXHF · Jul 31, 2017

mike69440 said:
You need plenty of heat for deep weld penetration to get a tooth to hold. Weld up bar bolted to bucket. Make sure top weld is still hot when you do the bottom, etc. maybe Preheat, but do not heat the tips.

Mike, I'm concerned about it enough that I'm going to take it to a pro and get it stick welded. I'm going to take the bucket with me after I tack on the mount points to the main bar then drill and mount the bar to the bucket. I'll help him clamp on the teeth and he can weld them solid. I also picked up three 3/8" weld-on hooks so he can weld those up at the same time. Glad I bought pallet forks now.

Ford850 · Aug 3, 2017

Did you get it welded up?

TXHF · Aug 3, 2017

Not yet... I just picked up the flat stock yesterday. I'll have to bring my FEL bucket back here to mock it up and tack-weld it first. That'll be this weekend I hope.

TXHF · Aug 5, 2017

Ford850 said:
Did you get it welded up?

I went up to the property today and did about 5 hours of work then put the loader bucket in my truck bed and brought it back home. It will be two weeks before I get back to the tractor so this will give me time to mock it up, tack weld it and take it to someone who will get the job done right. I'm going to have to unload it onto my metal saw horses in the garage. There, I can fit the bar, lay out the teeth and tack it up.

I ended up getting the metal at a dealer in North Austin. I actually saw their shop on Velocity watching Jesse James Outlaw Garage. Bob from the show went to this place to get metal. Westwood Metals is great! You order the pieces cut to the specs you want.

I also picked up three weld-on 3/8" hooks. I'll have those done at the same time and will reinforce the top edge of the bucket with angle iron and have those hooks welded to that.

TXHF · Aug 6, 2017

Turns out the MIG handled it very well. My welding isn't spectacular but I'm betting these are not coming off any time in the next decade. I have to clean up, prime and paint it, then attach the teeth.