Blow by opinions, when to replace rings
- Thread starter longjohn79
- Start date
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DK35vince
Super Member
Is it hard starting, running poorly, low on power, using excess oil, Etc ??
If not run it.
If not run it.
Kyle_in_Tex
Super Star Member
Do you have to use ether to start it?
Myorangecamaro
New member
Put a clear tube in dip stick hole, make sure it has a good seal. Bend it in a u shape outside the motor, zip tie the u together, fill the bottom 5 inches of u with water, start engine and run up to and operating speed. If the water levels are 4 inches apart, that is 2 inches of mercury, that's when we call it around here, your motor has a hard enough time producing power with that much blowby let alone forcing pistons into a pressurized crank case.
OP
longjohn79
Member
No ether to start, starts and runs ok. I have removed the dipstick while running and it has a decent amount of pressure coming out when I put my finger over the hole. I will use the tube method, thanks for that. I will update once I have tested.
def38
Platinum Member
Compression test. Leak down test. UOA for wear metals. Change oil viscosity?
adventure bob
Platinum Member
Air moving out of dipstick hole isn't a great estimate as the oil is moving around the crank creating air turbulence. Best way on blow by and any other sort of leakage is a leak down test. Theres a value for you engine that is "acceptable" and will let you know that you need to rebuild the top end. You also need to do it cylinder to cylinder and compare. You may just have one leaker, or multiples. Not that I would pull the top end off to do one piston.
cat fever
Elite Member
What he said.^^^^
MatthewPaul
Member
A preasurized crank case can be an indication of plugged or clogged crank case ventilation.
KYErik
Platinum Member
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- 1977 AC 7000, 1980 JD 2840, 1963 Case 930, 1963 Ford 4000, 1943 Case SC, Case 530CK backhoe
My vote is to run it until it is hard to start or doesn't have enough power to do what you need it to do.
DK35vince
Super Member
Good point.
Texasmark
Elite Member
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- Ford: '88 3910 Series II, '80 3600, '65 3000; '07 6530C Branson with FEL, 2020 LS MT225S. Case-IH 395 and 895 with cab. All Diesels
2k hrs is no time for a diesel to be needing rings if any kind of preventive maintenance...oil changes, air cleaner attached, cleaned when needed, and coolant maintained for normal operating temps.
I know nor read anything about this thread other than your initial post. But I have been running diesels for 35+ years and have learned a couple of things. First thing I would do would be to do a servicing of the above. Then get yourself a cleaner for carbon and injectors...numerous good ones out there, I use Power Services and or Sea Foam. Read the directions and when they say quantity, up it by 10 for the first tank of diesel.
Hook your tractor to something that will make it work and work it hard forcing the temp gauge up into mid-range (correction word min meant to be mid 4/3/17) for a couple of hours steady. Let her cool down and change the oil and filter again.
Finish off that tank and when you refill use 2x the cleaner's recommended amount and keep at least their normal maintenance level.
I just finished cleaning up a "smoker", my '63 2000D with about 3700 original hrs (original proof meter still works) an never having a wrench on the main engine (generator, starter, water pump, excepted). I did what I told you and it really did a nice job. This past winter I never used my glow plugs and she started up in all of 15 seconds.
Try it before you start worrying about something you probably don't need.
I know nor read anything about this thread other than your initial post. But I have been running diesels for 35+ years and have learned a couple of things. First thing I would do would be to do a servicing of the above. Then get yourself a cleaner for carbon and injectors...numerous good ones out there, I use Power Services and or Sea Foam. Read the directions and when they say quantity, up it by 10 for the first tank of diesel.
Hook your tractor to something that will make it work and work it hard forcing the temp gauge up into mid-range (correction word min meant to be mid 4/3/17) for a couple of hours steady. Let her cool down and change the oil and filter again.
Finish off that tank and when you refill use 2x the cleaner's recommended amount and keep at least their normal maintenance level.
I just finished cleaning up a "smoker", my '63 2000D with about 3700 original hrs (original proof meter still works) an never having a wrench on the main engine (generator, starter, water pump, excepted). I did what I told you and it really did a nice job. This past winter I never used my glow plugs and she started up in all of 15 seconds.
Try it before you start worrying about something you probably don't need.
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def38
Platinum Member
John,
I have a basic question, what causes your concern regarding rings and blow by? Do you believe your engine's rings are out of spec? Several replies here have suggested a compression and/or leak down test to confirm piston ring performance. Is you engine consuming excessive engine oil? Also, have you tried a UOA to determine wear metals? What oil do you use in your engine?
Without some baseline information regarding your engine, we're all just spitballing as to a fix, myself included.
OP
longjohn79
Member
So my original post is based on that I just purchased the tractor used. There is some of what I think is blow by coming from the case vent, but it could be just normal venting. Everyone I talked to before buying said check for blowby. I have not run enough yet to know if it uses oil, power seems to be ok, but I have nothing to compare it to. I like the compression test and Oil Analysis, did a lot of that in the Army. For now I want to do a normal service as I do that anytime I buy a new used item. Probably change oil and filters and monitor things. I will sample oil before changing, where can I get the analysis done?
def38
Platinum Member
These folks will do the analysis for you...
Standard Analysis
What oil will you use? I'm doing the same with my used M-F...I'll use Mobil Delvac1300 15w-40, available at Wal-Mart.
Standard Analysis
What oil will you use? I'm doing the same with my used M-F...I'll use Mobil Delvac1300 15w-40, available at Wal-Mart.
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OP
longjohn79
Member
Thank you def38 I will give them a try.
def38
Platinum Member
Many will advise Shell Rotella, some Delo400. I prefer the Delvac due to the corrosion inhibitors they use. Our tractors stand idle for long periods hence, corrosion and moisture are of concern.
OP
longjohn79
Member
I have considered all those. My previous machine always saw Rotella.
OP
longjohn79
Member
Got my kit from Blackstone yesterday, going to pull the sample today and change the oil.
