How do you get 600 ft/lbs torque on a rotary cutter blade nut?!?

[dnw64]

I think you'll find that a 1 11/16" wrench size is standard for a 1 1/8" nut.

I assume a typo of some sort here...?

I've broken too many sockets over the years and it usually leads to either an injury or near injury.

I almost saw a BEAR on the way to work this morning

 

[bcp]

1 11/16th is standard head and nut size for a 1 1/8 BOLT.

For a 1 1/8 nut I find that a 1 2/16 wrench works great but is hard to find.

Bruce

 

[dnw64]

1 11/16th is standard head and nut size for a 1 1/8 BOLT.

For a 1 1/8 nut I find that a 1 2/16 wrench works great but is hard to find.

Bruce

Ah... that makes a bit more sense.

And, hahahaha

(BTW are you SURE that a 1-4/32 isn't n even better fit? For sure a loooot harder to find even than a 1-2/16 but everything worth doing is worth doing right, right?)

 

[jenkinsph]

If you can simply use a 3/4" pull handle and the appropriate 6 point socket and just pull with about 350 lbs. of force that will giturdone. If you can do this I don't think anyone will argue with you about it.:thumbsup:

 

[Tractor Seabee]

My LP brush hog has a nut that takes a 2 9/16 socket. The nuts are self locking type and are to be replaced each time. 3/4 socket and breaker bar, 4' cheater, tighten and then GO AROUND AGAIN. Best torque wrench I know. Heavy torqing of self locking nuts is not necessary. As the cutters are loose on the shaft there is minimal turning moment to loosen the nut turning direction would tend to tighten anyway.

Ron

 

[Streetcar]

My neighbor, a retired industrial mechanic and millwright, helped me replace my brush hog blades. We torqued them to the maximum torque with a 1/2" torque wrench (250#?), then he marked one flat on the nut and its location on the seat. He then turned the nut 1/6th of a turn more, using a 3/4 breaker bar and short cheater. He explained to me that any more would just be stretching the threads on the bolt. It never has come loose unintentionally.

This is a modification of turnof the nut method,which is used to assure proper tension in structural bolts

 

[dnw64]

There's a place just down the road from us that makes torque indicating washers. There are two primary benefits over using a torque wrench:

1. You don't need a torque wrench. You just tighten until the indicators display. That visual indication remains over the life of the washer, so you can tell it's still at the right tension any time just by looking at it.
2. They make a pretty big deal about the fact that torque does not always equal tension, due to variations in friction of the face of the washer and the actual threads. They have a very interesting video (with a pretty cool torque wrench!) demonstrating that at Durasquirt

 

[mogwild]

I use one of these: Amazon.com: Precision Instruments PREC4D6F Wrench (3/4" Dr. "Split Beam" Torque w/ Detachable Head (2-6 Ft/Lbs)): Automotive

 

[Herkypilot]

Good ideas/suggestion.

Thanks,
HP

 

[Dave M7040]

I'm doing some research for the inevitable blade replacement on my Bush Hog. The owners manual calls for 600 ft/lbs of torque on the blade bolts and 450 ft/lbs on the blade holder pan. I'm not sure how to get that amount of torque with any tools I've researched. I don't really want to spring for a 3/4" high impact air wrench (along with the compressor to run it). Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

HP

The professional way is to buy a Torque Multiplier tool commonly used on truck lug nuts. This one on ebay will output 1100 ft/lbs for $33.00
Torque Multiplier Set Wrench Lug Nut Lugnuts Remover Labor Saving RV Semi Socket | eBay.

You need to find one where the size of the high toque receiving socket will match your Bush Hog.
For people with an occasional rusted nut or a nut requiring high torque tightening, this is much cheaper than a 600 ft/lbs impact gun and compressor.

Watch this youtube video and be amazed at how easy it is to get high torques.

Torque Multiplier Lug Nut Remover Demo | Cheater Wrench™ - YouTube

Dave M7040

 

[Herkypilot]

The professional way is to buy a Torque Multiplier tool commonly used on truck lug nuts. This one on ebay will output 1100 ft/lbs for $33.00
Torque Multiplier Set Wrench Lug Nut Lugnuts Remover Labor Saving RV Semi Socket | eBay.

You need to find one where the size of the high toque receiving socket will match your Bush Hog.
For people with an occasional rusted nut or a nut requiring high torque tightening, this is much cheaper than a 600 ft/lbs impact gun and compressor.

Watch this youtube video and be amazed at how easy it is to get high torques.

Torque Multiplier Lug Nut Remover Demo | Cheater Wrench™ - YouTube

Dave M7040

Well this seems to be real cost effective way to do it.

Thanks

Hp

 

[Dave M7040]

Once you friends see it in action, it will be in great demand to borrow so buy two if you hope to have one when you need it.

Dave M7040

 

[texas42]

I doubt the lug nut wrench is what you need.
I worked around big Cat equipment for many years.
Many high torque bolts and or nuts.
All the service mechanics had 4 in 1 torque multiplier wrenches.
They sell new now days for north of $300.
Usually 3/4 drive input, 1" drive output.

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

Are you sure that's FOOT pounds and not INCH pounds?

 

[FTG-05]

The professional way is to buy a Torque Multiplier tool commonly used on truck lug nuts. This one on ebay will output 1100 ft/lbs for $33.00
Torque Multiplier Set Wrench Lug Nut Lugnuts Remover Labor Saving RV Semi Socket | eBay.

You need to find one where the size of the high toque receiving socket will match your Bush Hog.
For people with an occasional rusted nut or a nut requiring high torque tightening, this is much cheaper than a 600 ft/lbs impact gun and compressor.

Watch this youtube video and be amazed at how easy it is to get high torques.

Torque Multiplier Lug Nut Remover Demo | Cheater Wrench™ - YouTube

Dave M7040

From the egay ad:

"Maximum safe Torque output: 4800N/M"

4800 N/M = 3540 ft-lb (according to my handy little "Convert" app on my PC.)

 

[Dave M7040]

Are you sure that's FOOT pounds and not INCH pounds?

Yes I am certain.
By way of a comparison on a miniature scale.
Have you ever taken apart a mechanical timer like an Intermatic or Paragon one which, before the days of electronics, were used to turn on and off electrical circuits for fans, lights, heating equipment.
If you did you would have seen this tiny motor driving one small gear to large gear over and over again and finally there would be a small gear sticking out of the frame supporting the tiny motor and multiple gear trains.

This is a side view of just such a timer. First I would draw your attention to the right side of the picture where the timer motor and its gear trains are located. Note the multiple gears packed into a small space. I have drawn a red line to point out the output gear from the timer motor unit.

The motor, if removed from its gear train, is spinning at either 1800 or 3600 rpm I cannot remember. You can use your thumb and first finger to easily stop the motor turning it has so little torque.

Alternatively, if you tried to stop the gear with the red line pointing to it I don't care how strong you are it is impossible. Its speed of rotation might be now 3 rpm. The gear train has lowered the speed 600 times if the original motor speed was 1800 rpm. At the same time, the minuscule torque of the base motor has been magnified 600 times.

The tool I brought to the forum as a simple solution to achieving a high torque does work. Its operating principles are just a magnified intermatic timer.
In the youtube video the user of the tool is cranking and cranking the handle to achieve a tiny amount of rotation. That is the torque multiplication at work.

I have a much younger friend who races Formula Fords. He bought a Ford F450 to haul his race car, tools and spares to the track. The F450 has a dual wheel arrangement on the rear axle.

On the way to a race he had one side tire on the rear go flat and turned back home. He has a well equipped shop with a serious, by home mechanic standards, powerful, expensive 1/2" drive impact gun. He could not get the lug nuts off. and his racing weekend was done.

Frustrated he came to me wanting to know, short of buying the jackhammer sized impact gun and sockets the truck tire guys use on the side of the road, what could be use and bring with him on his next trip to the track. In Canada Princess Auto is like Northern Tool. Reasonable Chinese stuff at affordable prices. Not Snapon quality to be certain by up to occasional use. He bought a torque multiplier from them and immediately became a believer. Even if you have the serious 1" drive impact gun, you wont have it with you on your next trip. The torque multiplier is easily carried in your tool box.

Go to this Northern Tool link and click on the video link in the lowest priced unit on the page which is $199. This unit is a different style than the youtube video but perhaps more like the former Cat mechanic was used to. It outputs up to 2,200 ft/lb.

torque multiplier from Northern Tool + Equipment

Dave M7040

 

[JRobyn]

Further, for weight to be fully used, the bar needs to be exactly parallel to the ground. If it is above or below that, the force is reduced, as the effective "length"(horizontal distance from center of bolt to center of applied force) of the bar is also reduced.

Agree with everything except this. 100lb force applied via a 6ft lever is 600lb-ft no matter what the orientation or plane is. Unless you are also factoring in the weight of the lever!

 

[bcp]

I think it means the handle or extension needs to be 90 degrees to the bolt.

Bruce

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

Further, for weight to be fully used, the bar needs to be exactly parallel to the ground. If it is above or below that, the force is reduced, as the effective "length"(horizontal distance from center of bolt to center of applied force) of the bar is also reduced.

Agree with everything except this. 100lb force applied via a 6ft lever is 600lb-ft no matter what the orientation or plane is. Unless you are also factoring in the weight of the lever!

100 pounds of force, yes, but he said 100 pounds of weight. With the bar at horizontal, 100 pounds of weight will exert 100 pounds of force. But when that bar is not horizontal, that 100 pounds of weight is applying less than 100 pounds of rotational force to the bar. In fact, if it's straight up, it's applying zero rotational force to the bar.

So, if you are using your weight to apply the force, you don't stand the bar straight up and climb it like a fire pole. It won't move! Instead, you put it slightly above horizontal to get the most force while giving you some turning room. If it won't budge, you put it perfectly horizontal because you have learned by experience what math could have taught you - that is the point where your 100 pounds of weight is applying its maximum force.

Right?

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

Yes I am certain.
By way of a comparison on a miniature scale......

Well, that was a pretty long winded way of saying that 600 inch pounds is 50 foot pounds, and it's not enough.