Blades on a box blade

[crazyal]

I never checked the blades on my grading scraper to see if they had any sort of bow to them. I doubt you will notice it. When smoothing out my drive I always finish off with back dragging with the loader bucket flat to help pack down the gravel. My loader bucket has at least a 1/4" worth of bow to it and it's never bothered me in the least.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

If I did anything to it I would use a couple of flat washers to shim it close enough. Then tighten it down and start using it. I would agree with others that this is a minor issue though and nothing to be concerned about.

If you are new to using box blades understand that it takes seat time to be proficient with them. Do not think for a minute that this warping will cause any problems with grading. With practice and patience a box blade can achieve good results +/- .25 inch.

Here is a picture from a few years ago where I graded a small field +/- .50 inch, specs called for +/- 1 1/4 inch.

Nice work!
Travis

 

[EverythingAttachments]

Thanks for posting the additional pics catman8. So with the cutters bolted on solid, the edge of each is now arched?

I was at the Farm store today and they happened to have a BB laying on it's face so I snapped a couple pics.

I like these pics. It gives me a good opportunity to point out some structural differences.
The first thing that catches my eye is no bracing on the piece of angle iron. Yes, after looking, angle iron is the second thing.

The front cutting edge and what it's bolted to is the highest stress point of all on the box blade. Rather than welding a piece of angle iron to the bottom of a flat piece of steel which is the moldboard on the yellow box blade, our front moldboard is one solid, formed piece. The moldboard, tabs and holes are cut with the laser and formed in our press brake.

Here is the 60" EA 30-70 Box Blade(catman's) front moldboard:

Now that the front is taken care of and extremely strong and rigid, the rear piece of flat steel is added and triangular braces are welded in between, which creates the durable attachment point for the back cutting edge. Not a single one bent to date.

Catman and I exchanged PMs yesterday and it seems as if he is satisfied with the outcome after hearing multiple opinions of the situation. We are on good terms and neither believes the other was(or is) out to get the other!

I was thinking of something else, and i'll think it out loud for a moment. The bottom of the box blade looks totally flat here on the pallet:

Is it the location of the straight edge that makes it look worse. Is the angle of the straight edge totally relevant to the position of the piece when it is lying flat on the ground?
It is hard to imagine without actually being hands on with one minus cutting edges.

I'm not entirely excusing the minor bow, but I do think it is well within tolerance. There's way more to our box blades than meets the eye. I've only covered the moldboard so far!
Travis

 

[RNeumann]

I like these pics. It gives me a good opportunity to point out some structural differences.
The first thing that catches my eye is no bracing on the piece of angle iron. Yes, after looking, angle iron is the second thing.

The front cutting edge and what it's bolted to is the highest stress point of all on the box blade. Rather than welding a piece of angle iron to the bottom of a flat piece of steel which is the moldboard on the yellow box blade, our front moldboard is one solid, formed piece. The moldboard, tabs and holes are cut with the laser and formed in our press brake.

Here is the 60" EA 30-70 Box Blade(catman's) front moldboard:
View attachment 497415

Now that the front is taken care of and extremely strong and rigid, the rear piece of flat steel is added and triangular braces are welded in between, which creates the durable attachment point for the back cutting edge. Not a single one bent to date.

Catman and I exchanged PMs yesterday and it seems as if he is satisfied with the outcome after hearing multiple opinions of the situation. We are on good terms and neither believes the other was(or is) out to get the other!

I was thinking of something else, and i'll think it out loud for a moment. The bottom of the box blade looks totally flat here on the pallet:
View attachment 497416

Is it the location of the straight edge that makes it look worse. Is the angle of the straight edge totally relevant to the position of the piece when it is lying flat on the ground?
It is hard to imagine without actually being hands on with one minus cutting edges.

View attachment 497417

I'm not entirely excusing the minor bow, but I do think it is well within tolerance. There's way more to our box blades than meets the eye. I've only covered the moldboard so far!
Travis

"Well within tolerance" .......bummer. Crooked top brace and this......no EA for me.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

"Well within tolerance" .......bummer. Crooked top brace and this......no EA for me.

Thanks for your continued pleasant comments regarding our company. Have a blessed weekend sir.
Travis

 

[Ford850]

These are some good pictures. To me, it appears there is a 1/8" bow to the flat surface of the rear blade mount. After mounting the blade and setting the box blade flat, that should equate to 1/16" bow (both edges touching and 1/16" gap in the center). That's all that matters is how flat it sits on the ground, not the bow at a 45* angle.

 

[RNeumann]

Thanks for your continued pleasant comments regarding our company. Have a blessed weekend sir.
Travis

I call um like I see um and I can't make comments like this anymore-

Box Scraper / BoxBlade Choices?

TractorByNet.com - Compact Tractor Forum

 

[EverythingAttachments]

I call um like I see um and I can't make comments like this anymore-

Box Scraper / BoxBlade Choices?

TractorByNet.com - Compact Tractor Forum

The link doesn't work, but I know the recommendation you're talking about and appreciate your recommending our box blades before this fatal mistake. Yes, I read TBN constantly.

I admitted that we are not beyond making mistakes. Show me a manufacturer that has never made one please...pretty please.

You see, what makes us different is we ship directly to the customer. No dealers or distributors handling it in between.
No dealers or distributors answering to our customer's concerns or dealing with our customer's problems.

Usually, who hears of the mistakes we make, which are really at a minimum, is US and TBN.

WE make the best of it and resolve it properly no matter what it is and where it shows up.
Travis

 

[RNeumann]

It's not a fatal mistake. It's a disappointing response. We all make mistakes- it's how we recover. Instead of saying EA blew it on that one and will make it right you instead say it's within spec. Straight would have been right- we both know that BB isn't right.
Sounds like some on here wouldn't notice and or wouldn't care. But for the buyer who does notice and or is concerned, hearing that's within spec (aka normal) is a bummer.

 

[kthompson]

If the blade would wear in quickly it would also wear out quickly too. In my past life with tractors and box blades level was by eye and close enough. Now with laser and machine control accuracy tolerance is a bit tighter and there are adjustments you can make for blade wear. Nothing I would loose sleep over though.

I totally agree, from a person who has never been on site with laser levels being used, just how is the blade on the machine with laser controlled? Is it control by hand on a 3pth lever? If so that operator has one great control. It is my "impression" those machines are controlled by computer directed by the laser. Could be totally wrong. I find it hard to believe a blade of ANY type or precision on a 3 pth hitch unless the device has it's own controls would ever be adjusted in real time to keep it level side to side and the correct height as the tractor tracks across un-level ground itself. I really find it hard to believe the rear tires on many tractors are that true to round to give such accuracy unless there is a computer controlling the blade. I know when I pull my tractors onto pave roads there is almost always a spot that goes bump. Then I am running ag tires on my two larger but would not trust the loader tires to be that accurate either on my small tractor.

That being said please understand I think it is very proper for the OP to ask the questions he has. He has done so very tastefully. At same time think Travis with EA has done the same and has impressed me with being so candid.

jenkinsph I see where you held the grade to plus or minus .50 inch what I do not see is that was for how long a distance? In the grading business is the a standard length to hold that grade?