Chain saw sharpening advice sought

[jb1390]

Yep. After hitting a foreign object while sawing the same end result happens whether the chain was sharpened with a machine or by hand. A properly filed chain cuts like new as well. I would imagine the time it takes to sharpen a long chain versus a short chain would be proportional regardless of tool used.

I would suspect it's more difficult to get a consistent tooth length and angle, and rake depth using a file compared to a jig on a decent sharpener. The minor discrepancies will be less of a concern on a shorter chain, and also less of a concern if it's just a touch-up sharpening.

Before I bought & modified my current sharpener, I used a few of the cheaper sharpeners from Harbor Freight and Tractor Supply.....they were ok for the smaller chains but didn't work at all for the big stuff.

 

[ovrszd]

I would suspect it's more difficult to get a consistent tooth length and angle, and rake depth using a file compared to a jig on a decent sharpener. The minor discrepancies will be less of a concern on a shorter chain, and also less of a concern if it's just a touch-up sharpening.

Before I bought & modified my current sharpener, I used a few of the cheaper sharpeners from Harbor Freight and Tractor Supply.....they were ok for the smaller chains but didn't work at all for the big stuff.

Yep, I would imagine that's true. Takes some practice with a file to get a saw to cut uniformly. But as with anything, practice makes perfect!!!!!

 

[adventure bob]

One of the most important things I have found is consistency. With practice you can get good pretty quick, whether you use a guided file or do it by hand. The issue I have found with powered sharpeners like the harbor freight are that the chain holder isn't that sturdy or precise so you get inconsistent angles and depths. The test of how good you are is the chips that come off the chain when you run it. Nothing else matters. I have heard arguments about angle, technique, and a bunch of other things that are "internet important." I have played with angles and techniques but have settled on an Oregon manual guided bar mount that does pretty good. I get chips off ponderosa pine that look like I was using a plane.

 

[ovrszd]

One of the most important things I have found is consistency. With practice you can get good pretty quick, whether you use a guided file or do it by hand. The issue I have found with powered sharpeners like the harbor freight are that the chain holder isn't that sturdy or precise so you get inconsistent angles and depths. The test of how good you are is the chips that come off the chain when you run it. Nothing else matters. I have heard arguments about angle, technique, and a bunch of other things that are "internet important." I have played with angles and techniques but have settled on an Oregon manual guided bar mount that does pretty good. I get chips off ponderosa pine that look like I was using a plane.

Yep. Taught my Sons to watch the chips to know how sharp the chain is. They'll also guide you to adjusting the rakers.

 

[beowulf]

You can ask ten guys this question and you'll get 15 different answers.

JIm, you were so very right.

I have received a lot of good advice here - and appreciate the reasoning you have all also provided for the choices each of you would make. Each time I think I have it figured out there will be another post advocating a different way to go.

Given the number of used chains I already have (since I typically just replaced the chains rather than sharpening them) I doubt I will ever need to buy a new chain as I can sharpen and resharpen the 20 I have. I estimate I may only use my chainsaw less than five or six hours of actual cutting a year now - not nearly as much as in years past. And finally, after 30 years in the mountains, my age and grand kids (six hours away in town), may pull us to be in town within 2-3 years. It is really hard to wrap my head around not having a tractor, and living near people, but having the wife settled near family as I get older makes sense.

Well, anyway, I almost pulled the trigger on the Trimline, but given the limited hours of sawing I see in my future, I think I will go with the Pfed CS-x hand filer. It has great reviews and I think will work out for me in the circumstances. If I was going to be using the saw a lot and would need to sharpen a lot of chains I would have gone with the Trimline.

Now, I just have to order that before someone else posts something and changes my mind.

 

[dickfoster]

I too use a bar mounted guide but have recently started sharpening freehand. I think I get better results with the guide but will eventually expect to get as good of a result freehanding given enough practice.

 

[dodge man]

I bought a electric sharpner that plugs into a cigarette lighter socket. I have one of those on my tractor so I thought it would be handy in the field, but most of the time I just use it in the garage hooked up to a car battery. Its basically just the dremell style sharpner and does a good job, but most of the time I just use a hand file. It just takes a little practice and 5 minutes of time.

 

[ericm979]

No one has linked to this device- been around for years and does a great job! I went from never doing this to very good results in about 10'! Plus it goes into the woods without power and takes regular files. Cheaper than most too.
Granberg Bar-Mount Chainsaw Sharpener, Model# G-16B | Sharpeners Grinders| Northern Tool + Equipment

I've never been able to get one of those to work right. I do it by hand with just a file. I take down the rakers with a small flat file. I can't tell a difference between my chains and a new one so it must be good enough. I worked on a tree thinning crew for a couple seasons so I've sharpened a lot of chains.

 

[newbury]

If you are getting 20" and up chains sharpened WELL for $5 it's worth it.
As I posted back in 2013 I use 3 sharpening methods for a variety of chains.

That's real nice - here it's about $15 for the small chains. I never asked about the regular ones (26 to 34).

I run chains from 16" to 42", but mostly 28" plus. My saws are a 35cc Efco, Stihl 021, JD CS62, Stihl 660, Stihl 660, Stihl 088. I bought a Northern Tool grinder for about $80 years ago, I also use a Grandberg File n Joint. I mainly did some chain saw milling (CSM). My routine is to hand sharpen, or touch up 3 times, then use the Grandberg, repeat (hand 3 Grandberg 1) for 2 more "Grandbergs", then take them to the grinder. The hand sharepning and Grandberg are normally done on the saw. If for some reason a chain gets "rocked" it goes to the grinder.

The Grandberg helps confirm the angle and the grinder makes it even more accurate.

When sharpening also pay attention to the rakers.

Hand sharpening and using the Grandberg are usually done on the saw. I build up a "stash" of chains before going to the grinder, so I end up doing them for about an hour or so. But I have not done them in a few years.

I used to do a lot of CSM and would have to "Grandberg" a chain or two every tree.

And if you are planning on doing CSM make sure your filing approach can do a 0 degree angle.

 

[turnkey4099]

A couple things, one, depth gauges aka rakers are easy. You need to lay a straight edge across the top of each set of two cutters and see how far below that the raker between them is. .025" is what you want. A caliper works for to measure, but after a few times doing it, it's easy enough to eyeball. A Carlton File-o-plate is the best for determining where each raker needs to be, but they're out of production.


Baileys has em.

Both Oregon and Stihl among others make file guides for the rakers. The stihl one even comes with hooks to clean out the bar groves. Ask the dealer, can't cost more than a buck or two.

 

[turnkey4099]

I sharpen mine using a wall mount electric grinder from Tractor Supply. However, I had to modify it to get satisfactory results. There was too much slop out of the box, which caused inconsistent tooth length, and hence the chains would cut on a curve. The 16"-20" chains were ok, but the 36" bar has to be spot on or you'll have to fight it through the wood.

It seems like with my luck, the chains stay pretty sharp until I hit something. I can't imagine having to file a 36" chain by hand after hitting dirt or a nail and getting decent results. If I get the rakes and teeth ground correctly, I can get the chains to cut like new.

My longest bar is 32". I hand file that but it is skip tooth so not many more teeth than a regular 20". If I "really" rock a chain it is either pitched to taken to a dealer to be sharpened on his grinder knowing that it will probably come back with blued teeth and too hard to ever file by hand again.

 

[turnkey4099]

I would suspect it's more difficult to get a consistent tooth length and angle, and rake depth using a file compared to a jig on a decent sharpener. The minor discrepancies will be less of a concern on a shorter chain, and also less of a concern if it's just a touch-up sharpening.

Before I bought & modified my current sharpener, I used a few of the cheaper sharpeners from Harbor Freight and Tractor Supply.....they were ok for the smaller chains but didn't work at all for the big stuff.

I just eyeball the tooth length on each side, eyeball is close enouth. If they are different I add a stroke or two on the long side.

 

[turnkey4099]

One of the most important things I have found is consistency. With practice you can get good pretty quick, whether you use a guided file or do it by hand. The issue I have found with powered sharpeners like the harbor freight are that the chain holder isn't that sturdy or precise so you get inconsistent angles and depths. The test of how good you are is the chips that come off the chain when you run it. Nothing else matters. I have heard arguments about angle, technique, and a bunch of other things that are "internet important." I have played with angles and techniques but have settled on an Oregon manual guided bar mount that does pretty good. I get chips off ponderosa pine that look like I was using a plane.

I also use the Oregon file guide, do chains from 14" loops to 32" loops. Nn problem at all with crooked cuts except occasionally I will make a mistake and get a crooked cut. No biggee, just swap it for one of the spare chains and correct the bad one next time I file it.

 

[Oldpath05]

If I cant plug it in, I dont like using it, this is one of many power sharpening options>> How To Sharpen A Chainsaw Properly - YouTube <<I have this one and think it does a good job for the money. Probably the grinding wheel version would be faster, but the only grinding wheel stile I'd consider is the kind where the bar can stay on the saw, not a fan of taking chains off the saw until it's all used up.

 

[jimmyj]

I used to hand sharpen for years and years and then I got a grinder machine. It's just easier and super fast, and I like being able to set one consistent angle and depth and have all the teeth the same. Obviously there are many ways, hand being the easiest if you are in the field as well. Like the other posters said, if you machine sharpen, don't overheat the teeth.

 

[beowulf]

Oldpath05, thanks for the info and the video link. You have changed my mind. After watching that video and a couple of other videos demonstrating that sharpener, it is what I have ordered. This will make the sharpening angles and pitch consistent, will be fast, and can be done with the chain on the saw. And because it operates off of a 12 volt battery, it can be used in the field.

BTW, a much better video re the device is:
Granberg G112XT 12 Volt Chainsaw Chain Sharpener/Grinder - Bing video

This video is much more detailed, and shows the set up and adjustments much better and actually is more correct re the set up (in the other video the device is not quite used correctly.) Anyway, after considering just about every option possible, this is the best fit for me Thanks again. Once again this forum has solved a problem for me.

Note: I could not find this item (Grandberg G1012XT 12 volt) on Amazon or anywhere else locally, but found that I can order it directly from Grandberg.

 

[milkman]

I use the Oregon or just free hand file when in the woods and then after several filings, I use the Granberg when at the garage.

Amazon.com: File Guide-2 File, 3/16: Home Improvement

Amazon.com : Granberg Bar-Mount Chain Saw Sharpener, Model# G-16B : Oregon Chainsaw Sharpener : Patio, Lawn & Garden

 

[OldMcDonald]

A couple things, one, depth gauges aka rakers are easy. You need to lay a straight edge across the top of each set of two cutters and see how far below that the raker between them is. .025" is what you want. A caliper works for to measure, but after a few times doing it, it's easy enough to eyeball. A Carlton File-o-plate is the best for determining where each raker needs to be, but they're out of production.

Rakers are easily taken down with a flat file, but I prefer a dremel with a sanding wheel or stone. Much less hand cramping.

Lastly, if you don't already grease you bar sprocket, you don't need to start now. Oregon says they do fine with just bar oil lubrication, and that greasing through the hole can actually force grit and grime into the bearings. Some people grease, some don't. I never have, and haven't ever had as problem.

I concur with that post.

 

[JRobyn]

Wow! Don't think I've ever seen a chain sharpened to the point of having the teeth as short as that Granberg video! That one is to the point of the trash bin in my book, but obviously will still cut well!

Since you have a bunch of old, probably well-worn chains, I think you will be happy with the power grinder. Manual filing of really bad teeth, even with a sharp file, gets tedious after one or two chains worth.

The Granberg looks terrific - it duplicates exactly what I do freehand with a Dremel. Just still be careful to not use too much pressure for too long such that you overheat the teeth.

Oh, and regarding the chain cutting straight through a log - I'm not convinced that this is solely because of uneven tooth lengths. I have sharpened chains where a couple of teeth have been badly damaged by hitting barbed wire, so required grinding down shorter than others. The chain still cut just fine. I think that consistent "hook angles" between the teeth on opposite sides is more critical, and the Granberg should ensure that.

 

[beowulf]

Wow! Don't think I've ever seen a chain sharpened to the point of having the teeth as short as that Granberg video!

I was thinking the same thing about the short teeth as I watched the video. I really liked the video tho, great detail and lighting and camera closeups and focus really made it easy to watch - and he was very thorough.

Thanks for the tips. I can't wait until it arrives and I can start sharpening - even tho with all the rain we have been getting it will be a while before I get to any of the sawing tasks.