Chain saw sharpening advice sought

[beowulf]

Who has tried the Oregon Powersharp system? Thoughts?

I came across a youtube video of that as well. Looks wild - I did see what is inside to see how it works - looked fast but a bit wild.

 

[Creamer]

I have not talked to anyone who has used one but if it works it would be really quick and simple.

 

[Oldpath05]

Bringing back the edge on an almost new chain by hand in not too difficult after a little practice, however it is much easier to get all the teeth angles consistent with a machine. I also have been looking recently at various types of electric sharpeners. I enjoy sharpening by hand, however my right shoulder, like the rest of me, is getting old and some days is reluctant to file as often as I would like, which is generally after 2 or 3 fuel refills.

There seem to be very variable reports on the various low cost machines that use a disc. Some people are happy with them, others think they flex too much, or are just unpleasant to use. One thing to watch for is that on many you have to clamp each tooth by tightening a screw, then undo it again before moving on to the next. That could turn chain sharpening into a real chore.

The sharpener that appeals to me most for sensible money and what I have ordered is made in the USA by Granberg PRECISION GRINDER (12V) - G112XT - Granberg International. It gets mostly excellent reports and there are some good videos on youtube that show it working
How To Sharpen A Chainsaw Properly - YouTube
Granberg precision grinder and accurate depth guage raker setting for chainsaw chain - YouTube

I bought one of those Granberg grinders last year, I can probably do just a good of job by hand but I like using it. It's gotten to the point where I dont like doing anything unless there's button switches and nobs on it, and since this tool is quick to set up, once you've done it a few times, I pre-fer sharpening my saw with this grinder.
I have a Stanley 12 volt battery booster, compressor, light thing, makes it nice to hook the grinder on to.>>> Amazon.com: Stanley J39 6 Peak Amp Jump Starter: STANLEY: Automotive

 

[Tompet]

OK, Rustyiron and Tompet, looks like I will go with the Timberline. I figure if I get the wife a set of crescent wrenches instead of jewelry for her birthday I will save enough to afford it.

A final question - am I right that I will still need a depth gauge and file to maintain the rakers at the correct height?

Yes, but very easy and not necessary to do every sharpening. I don't remember if there are any YouTube videos on using it. Also, look around online for discount coupon. I found a link on line at the time to a promo on another site and it saved $25 off price, so maybe worthwhile to do a little surfing.

First time set up took a little time, but goes quicker after that...

You brought up the Oregon Powersharp Sharp and I had seen it in the past and it seemed like a gimmick, but this time I went and looked it up on Amazon which had mixed reviews and then on a YouTube video which seemed positive. What I wasn't aware of it seems it is proprietary and you have to also buy an Oregon bar and chain matched to the Powersharp and your saw.

 

[motownbrowne]

A couple things, one, depth gauges aka rakers are easy. You need to lay a straight edge across the top of each set of two cutters and see how far below that the raker between them is. .025" is what you want. A caliper works for to measure, but after a few times doing it, it's easy enough to eyeball. A Carlton File-o-plate is the best for determining where each raker needs to be, but they're out of production.

Rakers are easily taken down with a flat file, but I prefer a dremel with a sanding wheel or stone. Much less hand cramping.

Lastly, if you don't already grease you bar sprocket, you don't need to start now. Oregon says they do fine with just bar oil lubrication, and that greasing through the hole can actually force grit and grime into the bearings. Some people grease, some don't. I never have, and haven't ever had as problem.

 

[RNeumann]

No one has linked to this device- been around for years and does a great job! I went from never doing this to very good results in about 10'! Plus it goes into the woods without power and takes regular files. Cheaper than most too.
Granberg Bar-Mount Chainsaw Sharpener, Model# G-16B | Sharpeners Grinders| Northern Tool + Equipment

You will also need one of these-

Amazon.com : Oregon Chain Saw Depth Gauge Tool And Flat File 4466 : Chain Sharpeners : Patio, Lawn & Garden

 

[turnkey4099]

Turnkey, I do intend to do hand filing but don't really want to mount and dismount the 20 plus chains I already have in a box that need sharpening so thought it might be worth it to get those done with a grinder. Then once that task is over I can sharpen by hand on the saw.

BTW which bar mount would you recommend. I am not sure I want to pop for a Timberline at $100 plus carbide files when my chainsaw use is much more limited now?

Yes, changing chains does take a bit of time but not all that much. I have done 8 at one sitting...well, with a coffeee break half way through.

My current one is an Oregon. I am not a fan of the one that sharpens the tooth and the does the depth gauge at the same time. Too many things to watch at once.

 

[turnkey4099]

I see the point - sort of. But now that I have learned a bit here and from youtube videos I think I can sharpen the chains myself. And what I would not be looking forward to though is mounting and taking off all those chains one by one in order to use the Timberline on each one. I could sharpen the ones that are already off - the first time - with a cheap grinder ($20), and would have 20 chains available which I could thereafter sharpen on the bar as necessary. I am thinking I may never need to buy another chain as each one could then be sharpened many times. For as much as I contemplate using the chainsaw in the future I may only be sharpening a chain once or twice a year.

If I was going to be using the saw a lot I would definitely go for the Timberline. But I guess I could also not sharpen all 20 at once and only do so one by one on the bar as I needed a new chain - I could just mount a new (used) one and sharpen it on the bar.

My usual procedure is to sharpen a chain on the saw when I have used it, change to one that needs sharping and sharpen that to be used the next time. My backlog of "to be sharped" tends to grow during the summer. I cut 10 plus cords a year, need to have about 14 ready to deliver next fall. Already have 10 in the stacks but some still need splitting.

 

[turnkey4099]

Don't worry about swapping chains. Have an enjoyable afternoon of chain sharpening. Doesn't take that long to swap chains. In the end you will have a large supply of sharp chains that will run you for a very long time with minimal expense!!!!! What's to lose????

Quite true. Using my Oregon 'on the bar' guide I don't even have to look as I file other than to watch for the marked teeth to come around to show when I have finished the chain.

Dream would be a vise on the dining room table so I could watch TV. I suspect someone in my house would tend to object rather violently though.

 

[turnkey4099]

I did not know that - I thought for each chain I would have to disassemble (take brake off etc.), take off one chain, mount another chain, put brake back on, and do that 20 times. If I can just put the bar in the vice and drape the chains over that one by one as I sharpen them, well, that changes things a bit. That would also let me take care of any burs on the drive lugs - and I know there are some of those on a couple of chains- caused by my misuse at times. So, now back to the calculator re Timberline with carbide or one of the other options I was about to pull the trigger on. I will look again at Timberline - and see if it takes care of depth adjustment as well, or if I need a separate gauge and file for that.

BTW - most of you likely already know this but while looking at youtube videos re chainsaw sharpening and maintenance I learned you need to lube the sprocket through a hole in the bar - I did not know that.

Raining here all day today so a good day for me to spend time learning about all this while watching football.

Most professionals do not lube that sprocket, in fact new bars don't even have a lube hole in them. The figuring is that the chain carries enough oil to lub the sprocket.

 

[turnkey4099]

A couple things, one, depth gauges aka rakers are easy. You need to lay a straight edge across the top of each set of two cutters and see how far below that the raker between them is. .025" is what you want. A caliper works for to measure, but after a few times doing it, it's easy enough to eyeball. A Carlton File-o-plate is the best for determining where each raker needs to be, but they're out of production.

Rakers are easily taken down with a flat file, but I prefer a dremel with a sanding wheel or stone. Much less hand cramping.

Lastly, if you don't already grease you bar sprocket, you don't need to start now. Oregon says they do fine with just bar oil lubrication, and that greasing through the hole can actually force grit and grime into the bearings. Some people grease, some don't. I never have, and haven't ever had as problem.

Stihl has the raker filing guide, I don't know what it costs but abour $1,00 would be my guess. They come with different clearances, .025 for hardwood, .035 for soft. May have others. I use .035 for everything as most of what I cut is softwood.

Nice part of about the Stihl raker guide is it has a couiple "hooks" on one end for cleaning out the bar rails. One swipe each side leaves a clean channel.

 

[OldMcDonald]

Quote: But I guess I could also not sharpen all 20 at once and only do so one by one on the bar as I needed a new chain - I could just mount a new (used) one and sharpen it on the bar.

Makes sense.

Turnkey quote: Dunno about the squre shaped teeth but the round shaped (sorta like a question mark) had sharpening angels of 35 degree across the tooth and 10 degree up angle.

Reminded me that my chains had a 10ｺ angle too, and not horizontal as recommended in the link I gave earlier.

 

[scdeerslayer]

I've tried using chains that were supposedly sharpened by professionals using electric sharpeners but they never seem to cut as well as when sharpened with a file.

I use the guide in this kit:Amazon.com: Husqvarna 531381 3/8-Inch Saw Chain Filing Kit: Patio, Lawn & Garden

That comes with 7/32" files, and I also have the same thing for the low profile chains that use 5/32" file. I don't use it for the depth gauges though, I use this:Amazon.com : Oregon Chain Saw Depth Gauge Tool And Flat File 4466 : Chain Sharpeners : Patio, Lawn & Garden

I do plan on getting the timberline also at some point.

 

[kidr]

A couple things, one, depth gauges aka rakers are easy. You need to lay a straight edge across the top of each set of two cutters and see how far below that the raker between them is. .025" is what you want. A caliper works for to measure, but after a few times doing it, it's easy enough to eyeball. A Carlton File-o-plate is the best for determining where each raker needs to be, but they're out of production.


Baileys has em.

 

[gsganzer]

I have a Timberline and love it. It's real simple and quick and puts on a great edge. The key to it working right is to spend some extra time the first time you use it on a new chain. You have to spend some time setting the "hook" on each tooth.

 

[buickanddeere]

Use a power sharpener

 

[deanocraft]

I use one of these. It has worked for well for the last 15 years, and is quick, cheap, and fits in my saw case!

 

[jb1390]

I bought one of the HF grinders, not bad for a cheap unit, got some slop in it but I find that I can hand file faster than doing it on the grinder.

I sharpen mine using a wall mount electric grinder from Tractor Supply. However, I had to modify it to get satisfactory results. There was too much slop out of the box, which caused inconsistent tooth length, and hence the chains would cut on a curve. The 16"-20" chains were ok, but the 36" bar has to be spot on or you'll have to fight it through the wood.

It seems like with my luck, the chains stay pretty sharp until I hit something. I can't imagine having to file a 36" chain by hand after hitting dirt or a nail and getting decent results. If I get the rakes and teeth ground correctly, I can get the chains to cut like new.

 

[ovrszd]

I use one of these. It has worked for well for the last 15 years, and is quick, cheap, and fits in my saw case!

Yep. Got two of them. Most cost effective saw sharpener ever made!!!!

 

[ovrszd]

It seems like with my luck, the chains stay pretty sharp until I hit something. I can't imagine having to file a 36" chain by hand after hitting dirt or a nail and getting decent results. If I get the rakes and teeth ground correctly, I can get the chains to cut like new.

Yep. After hitting a foreign object while sawing the same end result happens whether the chain was sharpened with a machine or by hand. A properly filed chain cuts like new as well. I would imagine the time it takes to sharpen a long chain versus a short chain would be proportional regardless of tool used.