Rear Ballast Close to or Far out from the tractor??

nightdevil · Dec 30, 2016

So I finally got what I think is everything to make my own barrel ballast box. This forum has so much on ballast boxes that its great!
I planned to do something like mikes... http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/347445-ballast-barrel.html

So I got all my parts and I also picked me up a quick hitch along the way. So this has me thinking. Should I keep the barrel close to the tractor and set the drawbar nearly in the middle or create a way to set it so that I can use the quick hitch?

I figure that setting it out would help with the FEL but I need (or i think I need) it more for traction in the snow (crossing fingers). Yes it would be nice to change implements with the quick hitch but being new to this and welding I believe it requires more pieces/parts/time.

So with that said I guess I have a couple questions.

1. Does the 1-2 ft make that much of a difference? (close to the tractor vs offset with the quick hitch)
2. What would be the best way to create something to off set the barrel for a quick hitch? extension pieces I could weld? I'd prefer to go this route but wouldn't mind trying a basic ballast box first.

ovrszd · Dec 30, 2016

Once you bought the QH your path is destined.

Design every 3pt piece of equipment to fit the QH. Never take it off. In the end you will consider it an easy chore to pick up the ballast box, use it, set it back down, all without leaving the tractor seat. Why would anything else be considered??

ArtMech · Dec 30, 2016

If I were you, I'd think about multi-functional counterweight. Example, heavy attachment, or a box, which could be used either loaded with rocks or a piece(s) of concrete, or with water barrel(s) inside. The closer to a tractor you'll make it, the less 3pt hitch lifting force will be needed. It means, the heavier it could be. That box you'd be able to use for the other purposes.
Best solution might be, that you could have a possibility to adjust it's weight.

rkidd · Dec 30, 2016

ovrszd said:
Once you bought the QH your path is destined.

Design every 3pt piece of equipment to fit the QH. Never take it off. In the end you will consider it an easy chore to pick up the ballast box, use it, set it back down, all without leaving the tractor seat. Why would anything else be considered??

+1 on this way!!

davedj1 · Dec 30, 2016

rkidd said:
+1 on this way!!

+2, might as well make things as easy as possible.

Fallon · Dec 30, 2016

+3

You'll be modding all your stuff to fit the QH rather than taking the QH on & off.

I built my busted 60 gallon compressor tank into a ballast box. There is a notch for the QH top hook not a mount for a normal toplink. Haven't put Cat3 bushings on the 3pt bar I welded on for the lift hooks. May or may not put those bushings on at some point.

Weight further back will unload the front axle & put weight on the rear. It will move the weight/traction from one axle to another, but won't change the net traction. A foot or 2 will make a bit of difference. How long is a crowbar, even a small one? It makes a big difference on leverage. A few feet compared to the length of the tractor infront of the rear axle is a lot less though, but it will make a difference.

The best ballast I ever had was my 60" rotary cutter. Even better putting several 50lbs bags of stuff back by the tail wheel. Really unloaded the front axle so I didn't feel bad maxing out my loader moving big bales on my old L3200.

If you are looking for maximum traction you need to go heavy as possible. Moving weight back onto the big rear tires may generate more traction than sitting on the smaller fronts. Not sure on that though.

pmsmechanic · Dec 30, 2016

Be careful how heavy you make your ballast box. I had 1000 lbs of cast weights on my three point hitch. I then added a quick tach. That moved the 1000 lbs 4" further back and I couldn't dig properly at all. A 1" stone was enough to lift the bucket out of the ground while digging. I took 400 lbs off and what a difference. You can always add more weight to a ballast box, but if you make it permanent then it's hard to remove.

nightdevil · Dec 30, 2016

Any recommendations on how to make a 3pt hitch lift points for on a barrel? Do they sell lifting points/arms I can weld on?

ovrszd · Dec 30, 2016

nightdevil said:
Any recommendations on how to make a 3pt hitch lift points for on a barrel? Do they sell lifting points/arms I can weld on?

Easiest is a cold roll rod thru the barrel and a top link bracket sticking out the top.

nightdevil · Dec 30, 2016

This is what I'm thinking

disney · Dec 30, 2016

ovrszd said:
Once you bought the QH your path is destined.

Design every 3pt piece of equipment to fit the QH. Never take it off. In the end you will consider it an easy chore to pick up the ballast box, use it, set it back down, all without leaving the tractor seat. Why would anything else be considered??

Plus 4

I love my ballast box, soo useful, and I pick it up, and drop it quite often.

If I did it right, the link below shows my completed box. I did a separate thread on the build.

http://http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/302204-yabb-ballast-box-actually-started.html?highlight=

nightdevil · Dec 30, 2016

disney said:
Plus 4

I love my ballast box, soo useful, and I pick it up, and drop it quite often.

If I did it right, the link below shows my completed box. I did a separate thread on the build.

http://http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/302204-yabb-ballast-box-actually-started.html?highlight=

oh man thats nice!

disney · Dec 30, 2016

nightdevil said:
oh man thats nice!

Thanks. It will take a little more work, and maybe a few more dollars, but I think you would love it. Just use a little less cement for your tractor...

aczlan · Dec 30, 2016

nightdevil said:
View attachment 493309
This is what I'm thinking

That should work, I have a similar barrel (with a hole for a pin hitch and a 2" ball in the back) and it is a really needed when I put the 7' snowblower on the front.

Aaron Z

ovrszd · Dec 31, 2016

Yep, that'll work great. Won't take much to hold everything in place since concrete will give it all strength.

When building something like this make the tolerances sloppy. Leave plenty of space between the top link tabs for example. Make it very easy to hookup using the QH.

crazyal · Dec 31, 2016

On my 55 gallon drum BB I used a set of pins from Tractor supply. They come threaded so I just drilled a hole on each side of the drum. Inside the drum I used a short piece of conduit over the exposed threads and tack welded it to the nuts. Once the cement is in there it's not going anywhere. For the top link I just welded two L-angles to the top of the drum and left the area where the top link could hit the drum void of cement. You really don't need to over engineer it as the cement does most of the work. It's 6 years old now and works just as good today as the day I built it.

fried1765 · Dec 31, 2016

nightdevil said:
Any recommendations on how to make a 3pt hitch lift points for on a barrel? Do they sell lifting points/arms I can weld on?

Recommendation: YUP!
Buy a set of 3pt. forks from Agri Supply.
Put a loaded barrel, wood box, or whatever you want on a pallet.
Back up, slide the 3pt. forks under the pallet, and off you go with whatever weight you have loaded on the pallet.
For my Ford 1920, I built a wood frame on a small pallet, and added 500 lbs. of scrap lead.
My tires are also each loaded with 38 gal. of windshield washer fluid.
You could also use bricks, blocks, sand, etc. on the pallet.
I do not need to get off the tractor to attach, or detach, my weight!
If you do not already have a set of 3pt. forks, you will be amazed how inexpensive, and handy they are (I do have a set of loader forks also)!

ovrszd · Dec 31, 2016

fried1765 said:
Recommendation: YUP!
Buy a set of 3pt. forks from Agri Supply.
Put a loaded barrel, wood box, or whatever you want on a pallet.
Back up, slide the 3pt. forks under the pallet, and off you go with whatever weight you have loaded on the pallet.
For my Ford 1920, I built a wood frame on a small pallet, and added 500 lbs. of scrap lead.
My tires are also each loaded with 38 gal. of windshield washer fluid.
You could also use bricks, blocks, sand, etc. on the pallet.
I do not need to get off the tractor to attach, or detach, my weight!
If you do not already have a set of 3pt. forks, you will be amazed how inexpensive, and handy they are (I do have a set of loader forks also)!

But then, didn't you have to hookup the forks to hookup the ballast weight, then have to unhook the ballast weight to unhook the forks to use the QH for a different attachment??? Whew, wore me out typin all that...

fried1765 · Dec 31, 2016

ovrszd said:
But then, didn't you have to hookup the forks to hookup the ballast weight, then have to unhook the ballast weight to unhook the forks to use the QH for a different attachment??? Whew, wore me out typin all that...

With the Pat's Quick Hitch, the forks come on/off in a flash.
But.....I usually store/leave the 3pt. forks right in the pallet.
When I need ballast again, I just back up to the forks with the Pat's.
Don't have a real QH.
Old guy with old tractors!
No tier 4, no electronics! I like it that way!

ovrszd · Dec 31, 2016

fried1765 said:
With the Pat's Quick Hitch, the forks come off in a flash.
But.....I usually store/leave the 3pt. forks right in the pallet.
When I need ballast again, I just back up to the forks with the Pat's.
Don't have a QH.
Old guy with old tractors!

And then get off the tractor and hookup the toplink......

Pat's is an improvement but should never be confused with a QH.