Massey Ferguson 1736 General Thread

[drizler]

Should be a book , white full size operating manual as well as one for the loader. Look in compartment behind the seat

 

[willysmb]

Should be a book , white full size operating manual as well as one for the loader. Look in compartment behind the seat

Right, the box behind the seat is empty .

 

[thclimer]

Picked up my 1736 today. Does anyone know if a digital copy of the manual exists? Mine did not come with a manual. I am going to contact the dealer Monday but I would rather not have to wait a few days to do some reading up on it.

Second, the tractor seem to make quite a bit of noise from the rear end under tight turning. Is that normal?

There is no digital copy of the manual that I'm aware of. I've attached a pictures of break-in page from my 1736 manual. The break-in procedure says to run the engine at full speed which seems a little strange to me.

I have not heard anything unusual when I have made a tight turn. Your rear differential lever is not locked down is it?

 

[drizler]

Make sure it's fully in the selected gear range you chose and the 4wd is all the way in or out. With mine you can hear things rolling around down there most of the time I think partly due to it being a geared tranny and the very quiet exhaust. You do hear a lot more because it runs so quietly. Expect the 4wd and range shifter to stay tight a very long time and make sure you have it in N before you try to shift ranges. Don't shift 4wd if it's rolling slowly backwards as it likes to do on an incline either. It'll really grind.
When you get around 50 hours it will smell like its overheatin, that's the regen kicking in with higher temps just do what you are doing till it's done. If you get the naggingest alarm you ever heard around every 50 hours check how much soot using the button. The machine has to have the e brake on to manually force the regen to occur. Once it starts let it do it's thing as the speed goes up and down for 15 minutes or so and it's done. It's suppposed to do it automatically but forgets sometimes.
The dealer is supposed to give you a book with it ,give him a call. just remember on breakin to run it fairly hard an don't dog it. Also at least the early books are full of poo on break in rpms! It tells you to run it FULL THROTTLE for the first 50 hours. Don't do it, just don't dog it run it strong. That might even be the reason they didn't give you one in the first place.

 

[WilliamBos]

Right, the box behind the seat is empty .

Our 1635 has a storage compartment in the back of the seat, check there.

 

[Ffterman]

Did any of you figure out how to change the meter from Kph to Mph?

 

[lazermule]

Did any of you figure out how to change the meter from Kph to Mph?

The dealer changed mine over and it took him awhile. He had to do it with the scan tool I believe.

LM

 

[lazermule]

Down around zero (deg F) here and we had some snow so I decided to fire up my 1736. No issues at all, just turned the key, waited for teh glow plug indicator to go out and it fired right up. It's in a non heated steal shed and has no block heater or plug in. It hadn't been started for probably 2 weeks so it was at full cold soak. Hopefully it keeps starting this well....

LM

 

[thclimer]

Down around zero (deg F) here and we had some snow so I decided to fire up my 1736. No issues at all, just turned the key, waited for teh glow plug indicator to go out and it fired right up. It's in a non heated steal shed and has no block heater or plug in. It hadn't been started for probably 2 weeks so it was at full cold soak. Hopefully it keeps starting this well....

LM

That is a nice reference point to have established!

I have yet to start my 1736 when it was much cooler than +15 degrees (F) and at that I used its block heater for 1-2 hours before I turned the key.

 

[lazermule]

That is a nice reference point to have established!

I have yet to start my 1736 when it was much cooler than +15 degrees (F) and at that I used its block heater for 1-2 hours before I turned the key.

Going to be negative teens below zero in the next couple of days so I'll get another reference point.

LM

 

[lazermule]

Has anyone added the 3rd function on the loader? If so, what was the cost? And, how do you like it? I'm speaking of the change where the control lever on the loader is replaced with a new one with a switch and the bucket tip channel is then diverted electronically through solenoids to remotes.

Thanks,

LM

 

[thclimer]

Going to be negative teens below zero in the next couple of days so I'll get another reference point.

LM

Oh my, you da man.

Please report back how cold it is the next time you start her.

 

[supertaster]

Has anyone added the 3rd function on the loader? If so, what was the cost? And, how do you like it? I'm speaking of the change where the control lever on the loader is replaced with a new one with a switch and the bucket tip channel is then diverted electronically through solenoids to remotes.

Thanks,

LM

I have one. Cost was built into the price of getting my blade. And I am in Canada so the price would be double that of USA price .
I will check the BOS and see what he marked for a price.

I like it. Works fine. Takes getting used to. I have no previous experience so nothing for comparison. Dealer tech told me it was made by Alo.

 

[lazermule]

Going to be negative teens below zero in the next couple of days so I'll get another reference point.

LM

Was about -15 deg the other day and I went out at about 10am to fire up the 1736. By this time is had warmed up to just below 0 deg F, and it had been below zero for a few days so the tractor had sat in the unheated pole shed for a week+ without running so it was cold soaked pretty well. I hit the key, the glow plugs cycled and it started. It ran pretty rough for about a minute and I let it run for 15-20 minutes before moving it or working it. I think this is about the threshold on where it would start without some outside heat applied.

LM

 

[thclimer]

Was about -15 deg the other day and I went out at about 10am to fire up the 1736. By this time is had warmed up to just below 0 deg F, and it had been below zero for a few days so the tractor had sat in the unheated pole shed for a week+ without running so it was cold soaked pretty well. I hit the key, the glow plugs cycled and it started. It ran pretty rough for about a minute and I let it run for 15-20 minutes before moving it or working it. I think this is about the threshold on where it would start without some outside heat applied.

LM

OMG, Wow that seems pretty cold to me!

Instead of frying an egg on the engine I'll bet you could have froze a beer in 15 minutes if you sat one on it.

 

[drizler]

Has anybody else got the backhoe and had headaches with those rear remotes? Since day 1 I have had big hassles with those Safeway qd remotes. Mine are ok most of the time and the loader is only an issue if you remove the arms. Try putting those remotes back in and the middle 2 fight to the death. Just keep pushing Back into the mounting so they won't click in. Had to pull the cover apart so I could werstle the things in. No room to peel back that collar but with inadequate fingertips.
In the back the long main line is an absolute beast to hook to the machines line. It's nearly impossible to pull back the sleeve hold the thing and force the ends together. I'm no wimp in the wrist department either and I do relieve tractor pressure and sometimes push the center in to make sure it's gone.
One of the mounted remotes in the back that goes to the hoe also just loves to pop just slightly loose. If you look at it it appears normal yet it's minutely cocked and sometimes shuts off the rear hydraulics. It's a bit busy back there so the lines aren't always hanging perfectly but it's not like they are really being yanked around either.
So what's the deal with these remotes. Do they really suck this bad? Is there some secret to these , in 3 years I should have found it by now.




Or do they just need to go away.

 

[thclimer]

Drizler, I don't have a backhoe but have always been intrigued by the quick disconnects on the 4-hoses for the front end loader on my 1736.

On my New Holland TC33D the quick disconnects require you to slide the collar back on the female disconnect for the male to go in. To uncouple you must slide the collar the female back.

On my 1736 you do not have to slide the collar back, you just push the male fitting in. To uncouple you just pull on the hose and the fittings separate. The times when I have had problems with these were when I did not bleed all the pressure off prior to connecting them. When I first experienced them when the tractor was delivered I said to myself these will never stay coupled because when you pull to separate them its pretty easy, but I have never had one come off.

 

[pertwan]

I've been reading this thread to see if there was any information as to how or why my 2017 MF 1736 fuel gauge stopped working, it seems these tractor had gauge issues since the start of the 1700 series, I received my new 1736 and the fuel gauge worked until the first tank ran out, I contacted the dealer and they sent a repair person out and he wanted to pump the tank and drop it in my barn, after pumping out the tank he realized there is a check valve between tanks and asked if they could trailer it back to the shop to work on it there, the tractor is there now and I stopped in yesterday for an update, the head tech said the tank sending unit was bad and a replacement was ordered.

 

[pertwan]

Got the tractor back after 3 days and a new tank sending unit, gauge read 3/4 tank and after it when down to empty and was re-fueled it was stuck at one bar once again, dealer said he would look at tractor again, an interesting observation from service people is tank did not need to be dropped, apparently under the running board or foot rest there is an inspection plate to access tank and sending unit, so they say..

 

[thclimer]

Got the tractor back after 3 days and a new tank sending unit, gauge read 3/4 tank and after it when down to empty and was re-fueled it was stuck at one bar once again, dealer said he would look at tractor again, an interesting observation from service people is tank did not need to be dropped, apparently under the running board or foot rest there is an inspection plate to access tank and sending unit, so they say..

Thanks for the update. Oh my, I wonder what the problems is then?