My NX6010

[IslandTractor]

Island (anyone else as well) - I'm curious about different options for this. I recently had my dealer install a third function kit, and the tech used heavy-duty zip ties for the hoses all the way to the front, but left them loose on the torque tube. He secured them to the tube with just a good (U.S.A. made) solid rubber bungee. It's easy to reposition, and keeps the hoses from looping down while using the grapple to where they might catch on something. But I'm wondering about other suggestions. I recall that EA, in one of its Youtube videos, now recommends against fixing the hoses to a rigid mount on the torque tube.

I'm not sure why EA recommends against a fixed mount on the torque tube. Of course you must absolutely leave enough slack on the implement side to account for curl and dump but on the tractor side there is no movement so a fixed mount works fine. We all have fixed mounts on our rear remotes and the principle is the same. Slack on the implement side without too much that can snag something but fixed on the tractor side.

My torque tube mount is a simple L shaped piece of stock welded to the torque tube and it has two holes that accept 1/2" SAE fittings. I'm not near the tractor so cannot get a photo right now. Basically the tractor side hoses have threaded ends that go through the holes and attach to make and female Pioneer fittings on the other side. Mine are lined up across the torque tube but I think it might be better to line up so the pioneer fittings point forward so a serious yank would disconnect rather than break the hoses.

No issues in nine years with the fixed mount on my DK40se. Before that I used just zip ties on my CK20 and had no issues either though it didn't look as neat.

 

[countrybumpkin]

I used one of the breakaway clamps on the loader tube , but I have both female couplers on the loader and the male ends on the grapple.

 

[k0ua]

Island (anyone else as well) - I'm curious about different options for this. I recently had my dealer install a third function kit, and the tech used heavy-duty zip ties for the hoses all the way to the front, but left them loose on the torque tube. He secured them to the tube with just a good (U.S.A. made) solid rubber bungee. It's easy to reposition, and keeps the hoses from looping down while using the grapple to where they might catch on something. But I'm wondering about other suggestions. I recall that EA, in one of its Youtube videos, now recommends against fixing the hoses to a rigid mount on the torque tube.

I am very please with the rigid mount I made for the couplers. It gives something to push against. I don't see any downsides yet.
If you are interested you can look at this:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-quick-connects-loader-torque.html?highlight=

 

[k0ua]

I used one of the breakaway clamps on the loader tube , but I have both female couplers on the loader and the male ends on the grapple.

That is probably a good way to do it. One reason I did not do it that way was because I wanted the grapple to have both a male and a female connector so that I could plug them together during storage so no dirt would enter the system.

However you could also make up a female to female adaptor to plug both of the male ends into to accomplish this goal of clean storage conditions. Then you would have the benefit of your breakaway safety and one handed hookup. Best of both worlds probably.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

That is probably a good way to do it. One reason I did not do it that way was because I wanted the grapple to have both a male and a female connector so that I could plug them together during storage so no dirt would enter the system.

However you could also make up a female to female adaptor to plug both of the male ends into to accomplish this goal of clean storage conditions. Then you would have the benefit of your breakaway safety and one handed hookup. Best of both worlds probably.

I also used a male and female connectors for the same reason. I have hardlines on my loader with the couplers pointed down for strain relief which really did come up once when my grapple fell off into a fire.

Third function wise, I used Eaton open center (P open to T) electric over hydraulic double spool valve mounted safely atop the transmission with a DO2 open center subplate. I used Parker hoses and fittings all custom sized. Two custom mounting plates with one holding the loader's quick disconnects where the factory QDs are located, and the other for mounting the valve on atop the transmission. A hose loom was made to protect and route the hydraulic hoses under the tractor. I used Delphi metripack electrical connectors everywhere. The wire loom connected to the battery and one piggy-back fuse that provides switch, low amp power and shielded from tip to stern with automotive style plastic loom shielding and then entirely wrapped in 3M Super 33+ electrical tape. The relays are both solid state and mounted on a custom block behind the left bulkhead. Sticker zip ties were used on the inside to keep the harness routed neat and tidy. I used weatherpack fuse blocks to protect both the control voltage side as well as the working voltage side with the working side mounted on the radiator firewall with the factory underwood relays and fuses. I also used a hitch kiss electrical connector with LEDs as a diagnostic tool so that a tech could quickly determine if the third function valve was receiving power.

 

[ksbrdmkr]

I like the male and female loader hoses to plug into each other for dirt control and a run around circuit for the hyd system(prevent overheating the pump when keeping the remotes plugged in the rear..

 

[DieselBound]

I like the male and female loader hoses to plug into each other for dirt control and a run around circuit for the hyd system(prevent overheating the pump when keeping the remotes plugged in the rear..

Could you educate me as to what an "run around circuit" is? (you're talking to someone who has only ever had loader hydraulics, and never even have disconnected them!)

 

[ksbrdmkr]

If the remote hyd is left on in the detent position bypassing oil through the relief valve the hyd system can overheat and hurt things, but with a run circuit the oil will flow through the hoses without any/very-much pressure.

 

[murphy1244]

Could you educate me as to what an "run around circuit" is? (you're talking to someone who has only ever had loader hydraulics, and never even have disconnected them!)

Just a hose to connect both ports of the remote in case you accidently turn them on.

 

[DieselBound]

Ha ha. OK. I was thinking there was some complicated thing happening here I'll have one remote that's detented (I think), so I'll have to make sure that I have a piece of hose to put on it when not in use. Not sure why I went with a detent; I think that I just wanted an assortment just in case. I think that I've heard of folks hooking up a bungee to make sure that a lever doesn't get stuck in the open position- another way of addressing this issue?

 

[IslandTractor]

Ha ha. OK. I was thinking there was some complicated thing happening here I'll have one remote that's detented (I think), so I'll have to make sure that I have a piece of hose to put on it when not in use. Not sure why I went with a detent; I think that I just wanted an assortment just in case. I think that I've heard of folks hooking up a bungee to make sure that a lever doesn't get stuck in the open position- another way of addressing this issue?

It's just a 3/8" hose about a foot or 15 inches long with two male quick connects. Leave it in your rear remote when not hooked up to BH etc and it won't matter if you accidentally move the control lever.

 

[DieselBound]

Eric, how do you feel about your decision to go with the Woods BB720X?

Do you think it was heavy duty enough? (I saw the broken "baffle?", but I don't think that that was any real big issue for you.)

Would you have liked a larger (or smaller?) cutter?

I think

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Eric, how do you feel about your decision to go with the Woods BB720X?

Do you think it was heavy duty enough? (I saw the broken "baffle?", but I don't think that that was any real big issue for you.)

Would you have liked a larger (or smaller?) cutter?

I think

It is appropriately sized. My terrain is sphagnum and sand and so it is pretty easy to knock material over and mow it. As I'm going on, my rotary cutter is getting easier material to process as I'm clearing more brush than poplar stands.

I looked at the Brown heavy duty as well as the BB7200X when I was searching. At the time there was indecision if my tractor could run a heavier cutter. I can. I generally only run my mower at 2000 engine rpm.

 

[IslandTractor]

I can add my experience with a Woods BB600 on a DK40se. I bought the smaller size brush bull simply because it was a deal on craigslist ($900 almost new). I use it for heavier bush hogging than I feel like doing with my flail. As far as horsepower is concerned, my 40hp tractor has more than needed. I think I could easily run the BB720.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

I came across a very good deal on a BB 72x but I'm afraid my tractor would overpower it. It is rated for 30-65 hp pto. Mine is 63 pto.

 

[IslandTractor]

I came across a very good deal on a BB 72x but I'm afraid my tractor would overpower it. It is rated for 30-65 hp pto. Mine is 63 pto.

Unless you exceed PTO speed I don't see what the problem would be.

 

[DieselBound]

It is appropriately sized. My terrain is sphagnum and sand and so it is pretty easy to knock material over and mow it. As I'm going on, my rotary cutter is getting easier material to process as I'm clearing more brush than poplar stands.

I looked at the Brown heavy duty as well as the BB7200X when I was searching. At the time there was indecision if my tractor could run a heavier cutter. I can. I generally only run my mower at 2000 engine rpm.

Thanks, Eric.

Running at a slower engine RPM possible because this cutter spins faster? It's rated 1590 fpm, which seems higher than everyone else in this group. I looked at the Brown and didn't like the fact that their welds aren't continuous: seems that most everyone else is doing full welds now- reduces pockets for rust to start?

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Thanks, Eric.

Running at a slower engine RPM possible because this cutter spins faster? It's rated 1590 fpm, which seems higher than everyone else in this group. I looked at the Brown and didn't like the fact that their welds aren't continuous: seems that most everyone else is doing full welds now- reduces pockets for rust to start?

The Woods product is well made and doesn't collect junk or water on the deck.

I run at a slower rpm to be easy on the equipment and because I have an HST and can run very slow over anything at a given engine torque.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

 

[DieselBound]

Eric, I'm finally getting around to installing the cameras and monitor in my NX (now that it's back from the dealer's and I have available time to work on it). You'd mentioned that you just ran wires for the rear camera in the rear window opening (open window, feed wires, close window and route wires), is this correct? I had to wade through a bunch of this thread to find a picture showing the rear camera. I believe that you had suggested just attaching it to the black plastic underside of the cab top- is this also correct (what you did)?

Did you ever installed a front camera? I've looked at what a lot of folks have done and I'm kind of wondering about mounting on top of the brush guard: I realize that it hinges forward and that I'd have to provide extra lengths to the cables. Seems that this would provide for a good view.

And for something completely unrelated... Where did you mount/bolt-down your sacrificial anode?