Tractor bulldozer

[Aussiebushman]

Strongly advise you to go for a front blade, preferably mounted on an arm running right under the machine if you can find way to secure it. I have both a front "dozer" blade AND a rear scraper blade - each performs quite different function but it is the front blade that really does most of the work, especially grading bush tracks that have washed out in the rain or snow. You will have driven over the ruts before the rear blade becomes effective

 

[moriboy]

If I was using the front blade on a tractor to move bark mulch or other very loose material, I think it would probably work ok. On the other hand, I've broken corner bits on my dozer when hitting a hidden rock. Granted, the tractor won't have the weight or traction like a dozer, but still a fairly mild impact might really wreak havoc on your machine.

 

[4570Man]

How much work do you have planned? I used a borrowed D3 dozer to cut my driveway in extremely hard clay. While I had it I used it to clear a trail through dense woods full of pines killed by the beetle. I was disappointed with what the dozer could accomplish and it weighs a whole lot more than a CK35, had metal tracks and a 6 way blade. Then again my tractor was completely useless against the extremely hard dirt. My tractor and grapple was more effective for trail building, but I felt much safer with the FOPS on the dozer.

 

[M7vans]

Hi All Thanks everybody for taking the time to reply.One of my inspirations for this project was this video youtu.be/USZf6pwY8_w you will have to add https:// to get around posting links for newbies like me
I however would only be pushing over some small brush ,the blade would be about 4 to 5 ft wide. I already have a 300 kilo 7 ft blade on the back which is great but I still end up having to push backwards with it. From some of your suggests I will brace it back to the drawbar or a similar strong point.Also try to design it to fail befor my kioti does. he is a photo of anothe example

 

[coralhead]

Here is how I mounted a modified front blade to my Branson 4520R. I push mainly from the rear drawbar mount and hang the frame from two holes on the front loader frame. The up/down cylinder mount is from the front cross frame. I have this on in the winter and am still able to mount the FEL when needed. Mounting is 2 bolts to the FEL frame and a pin in the rear drawbar. I had to add the boss and pin to the existing bracket.

 

[Renze]

Makr sure you have the lateral loads covered by a proper frame that extends to the rear axle. It is not uncommon to break a mfwd tractor right behind the bellhousing when theres no support frame.

 

[Renze]

?John Deere 5310 ????????????? (Front Blade) - YouTube

This looks quite effective.

 

[nybirdman]

?John Deere 5310 ????????????? (Front Blade) - YouTube

This looks quite effective.

Effective with a very large tractor;not so much with a 30-40 HP.For snow yes;dirt ,not so much.I had one and it wouldn't move dirt hardly at all.Of course it was a snow blade with trip springs but even locking it down wouldn't have helped much.

 

[ovrszd]

I've got a 60" snow blade for the front of my JD2210 also. Yep. It don't do much in dirt. But it's not designed to. Properly built with proper geometry, a dozer blade will move an amazing amount of dirt. If adequately built rear ballast adds another dimension to it's effectiveness.

There are times with the 235HP, 43K lb grader that I run where I have to take very small cuts in hard packed dirt. In those situations a 3pt rear blade would be totally worthless. It's all about perspective.

I don't quite understand why operators wouldn't think twice about spinning all 4 tires and lifting on the FEL at the same time to fill the bucket. But yet question whether those same mounting points can handle a Dozer blade??? :confused3:

 

[dwitt]

If the FEL can't knock down small bushes every operator I've ever watched would be buying new FELs all the time. Even to push it into a pile of heavy dirt would be far more load then a small bush. Seam like reinventing the wheel.