KenB2920
Veteran Member
I agree. Although those blades are not sharp, I've cut just fine with blades in worse shape for field mowing. Do sharper blades make a difference, absolutely !!! But dull blades will still cut a rough field.
Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers
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I agree. Although those blades are not sharp, I've cut just fine with blades in worse shape for field mowing. Do sharper blades make a difference, absolutely !!! But dull blades will still cut a rough field.
Catoosa
Bronze Member
My 3000 diesel is 1800 for 540 PTO, don't think it changed any between Gas and Diesel (at least on the thousand series) because the tachs are the same with the same markings. Not sure about the older models but wouldn't think it would be that much different.
IslandTractor
Super Star Member
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- Prudence Island, RI
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That's interesting. Gas engines today usually need higher rpm than diesel to reach optimal hp and torque. Maybe the older industrial gas engines were designed differently.
Steave
Platinum Member
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Same with the 3000 gas. 1800 engine = 540 pto. Dan's pto rating will be lower due to the dual sherman transmission. Not sure how much lower though.
80sDweeb
Bronze Member
I've been doing some HEAVY clearing (some should be done with a rotary cutter, but I have to make do with what I've got.) After a long day of work, a look under the mower showed that many of my blades were missing or broken, and a LOT of the cotter pins were missing on the pins that attach the blade holders. I ordered a full new set of "Heavy Duty" blades from Flail-Master, along with new bolts/nuts to replace the pins and cotters. The blades are a lot thicker than the ones that were on it, which I am guessing were "standard duty", probably Alamo originals (I bought the flail from a county highway department.) They work really well so far. Still don't cut certain types of bushes down very well. The "stalks" of the bushes get stripped of branches and leaves, but the stalks just pop right back up after I pass over them. If I go over them many times, I get a few more each time, so I can eventually get them cleared, but this is where I think a rotary cutter would be the better tool. I do really appreciate the relative safety I feel with the flail. I don't ever hear anything being thrown any distance by the mower, and with 5 kids still at home, and 2 dogs, that's a good thing.
Scott in Penfield NY
Scott in Penfield NY
docsfarm
Bronze Member
Hi Everyone. I posted a thread in Attachments asking about rotary cutters. One of the posters thought a JD390 offset flail might be the ticket for me.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/369674-rotary-cutter-suggestions.html
What are the thoughts of Flail Nation?
Would it work well for my intended use? Would there be a better flail for me? Or are a large light duty rotary and a smaller heavy duty rotary the way to go?
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/369674-rotary-cutter-suggestions.html
What are the thoughts of Flail Nation?
Would it work well for my intended use? Would there be a better flail for me? Or are a large light duty rotary and a smaller heavy duty rotary the way to go?
leonz
Super Member
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Hello docsfarm,
I see your about an hour south me. I hope you have recovered from the Little League World Series and things have slowed down a bit.
First and foremost remember that a hydro tractor will not give you all the power it has from the engine frame size as part of it will be using a substantial amount for the mules drive system in both 2 wheel and 4 wheel drive.
This leaves the rear power take off with a possible shortage of power for the rear power take off BUT as long as you maintain the mule and change both the air filters(Inner Safety Element and Outer Element) every 80 hours
you will lose very little power to intake air starvation(black smoke).
Do not pay any attention to the recommended hourly service periods for air filters. If you have a cyclone intake air pre-cleaner or can buy one from a Mahindra dealer all the better.
Look at the various brands of flail mowers in that size with hydraulic shift and without and decide which one to examine further and go from there.
You will need spare parts like side slicer knives and knife hangers if they are swivel mounted some brands use longer knives to eliminate extra hardware and the expense.
If your going to use the JD 390 for mowing ditches and lawn it will work fine you just have to know how to operate the mower so you get the best results.
Side Slicers will give you the best finish and you can go over it a second time if you want the grass clippings to dissolve faster AND the scoop knives will not do that for you-cur once and you cannot recut the green clippings.
You going to have to decide how versatile a mower you want first if you can afford a flail mower in that size and horsepower range.
A flail mower with hydraulic side shift gives you the opportunity to mow closely to buildings and trees with out damaging them as long as you mow slowly and put a bike flag on the far end-you can do this by mounting it on the bearing guard by drilling a hole in the strap iron over the flail mower rotor shaft end as long as it does not interfere with greasing the bearing every time you mow or after you mow.
1. Make sure your Mule can lift a 390 size and weight flail mower
2. a finish cut flail mower will mow both good sod and brush as long as you use the 540 RPM engine speed for the rear power take off for the flail mower.
If you intend to buy now you need to decide quickly as it may be 6 weeks before you have a mower to use unless a dealer has "a" flail mower of that width in stock.
What ever flail mower you choose or think you want and before you write a check or apply for a loan be sure to comeback and ask questions and then ask some more questions and then weed it some more and ask more questions.
Your going to have to understand why and how a flail mower works and when you see that fine carpet of clippings that allows you to mow to two inches in mowing height you will be glad you bought that flail mower.
FYI, Do not expect to mow a forest trail after a dozer or logger has gone through to open a path for you with this mower.
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Dan in MN
Bronze Member
I don't know if they put a different tach/speedo in the models with the dual range transmission or not, it's just a possibility. Regardless, I physically measured pto rpm so I know where the tach needs to be to hit 540..
It makes a big difference. What I first measured pto rpm I had left the tractor in high range from driving home, it looked like I had been over-spinning the crap out of the mower... lol I forget the number, would have been like 800-900 pto rpm at rated engine speed.
I then realized the range must change it and dropped it to low range to measure again, which of course told me it was off from where it was supposed to be, but now I know where the motor needs to be to get 540...Yes, they got back to me, but right as I was discovering the scraper could be mounted closer to the roller, so he just figured that would fix it. It made it better....but still seems like I'm ripping grass as much as mulching it and the ends of the roller still load up. No idea if I could return it, don't have the pallet or crate to ship it back to Oregon and would probably cost me $300-400 to ship anyway... Haven't considered sharpening them as I've only mowed with it for about 5 hours...I've spent enough time this week messing around with it that I could have gotten half a dozen other things done instead...
Interesting picture there as the D ring mount might allow the two blades to "hydrofoil" out (spread apart from each other) as leonz said. Mine are rigidly mounted, which makes little sense to me as you have the wide 3/8" or so flat where the upper parts are together that just rips at the grass. Even if the blades were sharpened all the way up that wouldn't really become a cutting edge with them pressed together. I'd rather see something like one of these with all edges sharpened...
I've wondered about just spreading mine apart with the spacers that are already on the bolts, but would have to check overlap of the blades first. I also think the standard side slicers would cut more efficiently if the bottoms were ground instead of the tops. If you picture the angle of attack of the blade swinging up and forward into the grass grinding the bottom instead would lead the cutting edge into the material a little more square to it...
For now I'm probably done messing with it for a while. Tried again today with no better luck, and when I got back to add insult to injury I had a very small coolant drip from the radiator...
I don't see it as practical to try and return it, and I can't use it as is, so just have to chalk it up to having made a bad decision. Still might stick the flail on the neighbor's tractor just to test how much of the issue is my tractor, but that depends on him finding time. Might pick up a carb rebuild kit this weekend too, but not sure when I would get to it...CADplans
Elite Member
Dan in MN, did you look at the gearbox? I am still wondering if it could be flipped over,,
which would reverse the rotation of the cutters.
My flail mower rotates opposite the direction yours does.
If you reversed rotation, at least you could use the sharp side of the blades,,, :laughing:
Also, my side skids are adjusted so that they are within an inch of the ground when the roller is on the ground.
Your skids have multiple holes for some reason, it seems that they are there for more than parking,,,
There are a lot of things to try before you give up.
IIRC, you had some issue getting the mower "leveled" when you first started,,
and maybe having the blades hit soil dulled them.
It might be worth the effort to reverse the blades to see if the sharp side cuts better.
I have to admit, my blades are original, never rotated, and 10 years old,
they still cut just fine.
I am just throwing out ideas,, the answer has to be somewhere.
The one answer I hate throwing out is the video that was posted a while back.
It showed the tractor and flail mower traveling REAL slow, like one MPH.
That would be a horrible answer,,,, :confused2:
which would reverse the rotation of the cutters.
My flail mower rotates opposite the direction yours does.
If you reversed rotation, at least you could use the sharp side of the blades,,, :laughing:
Also, my side skids are adjusted so that they are within an inch of the ground when the roller is on the ground.
Your skids have multiple holes for some reason, it seems that they are there for more than parking,,,
There are a lot of things to try before you give up.
IIRC, you had some issue getting the mower "leveled" when you first started,,
and maybe having the blades hit soil dulled them.
It might be worth the effort to reverse the blades to see if the sharp side cuts better.
I have to admit, my blades are original, never rotated, and 10 years old,
they still cut just fine.
I am just throwing out ideas,, the answer has to be somewhere.
The one answer I hate throwing out is the video that was posted a while back.
It showed the tractor and flail mower traveling REAL slow, like one MPH.
That would be a horrible answer,,,, :confused2:
leonz
Super Member
I don't know if they put a different tach/speedo in the models with the dual range transmission or not, it's just a possibility. Regardless, I physically measured pto rpm so I know where the tach needs to be to hit 540..
It makes a big difference. What I first measured pto rpm I had left the tractor in high range from driving home, it looked like I had been over-spinning the crap out of the mower... lol I forget the number, would have been like 800-900 pto rpm at rated engine speed.
Yes, they got back to me, but right as I was discovering the scraper could be mounted closer to the roller, so he just figured that would fix it. It made it better....but still seems like I'm ripping grass as much as mulching it and the ends of the roller still load up. No idea if I could return it, don't have the pallet or crate to ship it back to Oregon and would probably cost me $300-400 to ship anyway... Haven't considered sharpening them as I've only mowed with it for about 5 hours...I've spent enough time this week messing around with it that I could have gotten half a dozen other things done instead...
Interesting picture there as the D ring mount might allow the two blades to "hydrofoil" out (spread apart from each other) as leonz said. Mine are rigidly mounted, which makes little sense to me as you have the wide 3/8" or so flat where the upper parts are together that just rips at the grass. Even if the blades were sharpened all the way up that wouldn't really become a cutting edge with them pressed together. I'd rather see something like one of these with all edges sharpened...
View attachment 481248
I've wondered about just spreading mine apart with the spacers that are already on the bolts, but would have to check overlap of the blades first. I also think the standard side slicers would cut more efficiently if the bottoms were ground instead of the tops. If you picture the angle of attack of the blade swinging up and forward into the grass grinding the bottom instead would lead the cutting edge into the material a little more square to it...
For now I'm probably done messing with it for a while. Tried again today with no better luck, and when I got back to add insult to injury I had a very small coolant drip from the radiator...
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Hello dan,
Your neighbors mule will not make difference.
The issue is the "so called" knives that came with it. Take one pair off and measure the total knife height from Vertical, The Width and the size of the mounting hole and order a new set of hardened knives from Flail Master or Clean Cutter.
Sadly sharpening the bottom edge of the side slicers mounted on the flail mower will not help you as they will not be contacting the majority of the brush at all(less than 1/4 of an inch width of cut as the other edges will just tear at the brush.
Once you have the knives changed you will see a huge difference.
I am sorry your going through this due to thier poor quality control and manufacturing.