My Sawzall, Sawz nothing!

[Richard]

I bought this a couple years ago. I'm a homeowner, not a contractor. I've only used it (don't really know) let's say a dozen times.

Just now pulled it out to cut two 2x4's that are hard to reach.

Held it firm, cut first 2x4 and noticed a smell in room.

Started to cut the second 2x4 and stopped midway to readjust... realized that my pants leg was hot. (I was using my body as a weight against the body of the saw, cutting away from me BUT, I was not "grinding" into it)

Anyway, I noticed some smoke coming out of it.

Not really thinking, I presumed it just got warm from cutting a 2x4 (it should not be THIS warm with a single cut)

I started cutting....then I noticed what appeared to be "flames" (a too strong of word) where the brushes might touch the stator (or whatever it's called)

Stopped again...more smoke.

I only had a tiny amount to cut for the board to be finished so I cut it and watched the saw. It was smoking and "blowing out some flames" (not really flames, just a bunch of sparks)

It WAS getting hot to the touch in that area of the case.

Unplugged it and took it apart to inspect the brushes, they look 100% fine. Took handle off and noticed the bluing on the coils.

Don't know what caused it but this is evidently where my issue was.

So, your thoughts?

Saw is toast, pitch it and buy a new one?
Saw is worth fixing, ship it back to Milwaukee?
(I only paid $100 for it as I bought it at a pawn shop and it was PRISTINE with the box, never had an issue until this)

 

[Deere Dude]

Looks like a nice saw except for the fire think. It looks like the winding got fried. Not counting parts it would probably cost $50 to fix, maybe more.
I would chuck it and get a new one and not think about it anymore.

 

[RickB]

Chinese Milwaukee? Pitch it and start over.

 

[Richard]

Just tried something.

Plugged it in and turned it on.

Whenever you have a motor, you can see little sparks where the brushes rub on the stator/armature?

This does that too but, when I pull the trigger all the way, the sparks get MUCH larger and that seems to be a visual description of the problem.

 

[George2615]

I just looked at local box store prices. They ranged $100 for a new 12A Sawzall to $200 for a 15A Super Sawzall. It may cost you more to send in for repair than buy new.

 

[JFoy]

For tools I use infrequently, I'd just as soon get them from Harbor Freight. If the break, I didn't pay much for them to start with. In this case, $30 for that at HF,

 

[dragoneggs]

Richard, did it get wet for some reason. That can cause some extra 'fire'. If it did you can try blow drying but if the coil windings got fried then I agree, might as well get a new one.

 

[Richard]

Chinese Milwaukee? Pitch it and start over.

Wondered same thing so looked. The tag on it says made in USA

 

[Richard]

Guess I'll just replace it. I agree that by the time you factor in shipping, the cost of fixing would be close to replacement.

The wife last night was wanting something else cut.... I said we don't have the appropriate tool (with this out of the equation) unless.... we use this knowing that it might be its last use. (I stopped using it with the logic of not creating more damage)

But, if I'm to replace it....then I might do the last bit of work and let it die in my loving arms....

(ok, that sounded weird )

 

[Creamer]

It sounds like the commutator is coated (corroded) and the brushes are not making good contact. If you can get to it take some fine sandpaper and rub clean the surface of the commutator. Also verify the brushes are in straight and have a good contact surface. This is something that can happen from lack of use or possible cracked brush if it was dropped or something.

 

[rhunt]

Look for a Milwaukee repair facility in your area and drop it off there for repair. They are very good about repair of their tools. If you still have the manual that came with the saw, it has them listed. If not, try the internet.

 

[sd455dan]

Creamers suggestion could fix it - and that could be all that is needed, but

My guess is that at least one set of windings is shorted, the commutator contacts for each winding are at 180 degrees to each other.

A resistance test of each set of contacts will probably reveal at least one pair with a much lower resistance- Thus the blueing of the armature windings, and the sparks that fly every time that pair of commutator contacts line up with the carbon brushes and a large in rush of current flows.
If you send it in and a new armature is installed it may well be as good as new. jmo

 

[LD1]

I agree, step one should be contacting Milwaukee. The tool may still be under warranty. And if not, they dont charge much to fix. That saw almost looks bran new.

 

[TractorGuy]

For tools I use infrequently, I'd just as soon get them from Harbor Freight. If the break, I didn't pay much for them to start with. In this case, $30 for that at HF,

I tried this approach with 4-1/2" grinders. My 25+ year old Craftsman blew up much like the OPs sawsall. Bought a $10 coupon grinder from HF that had no torque and blew up about the 4th time I used it. Upscaled to the $30 grinder with the same results. Found a 9 amp Dewalt on sale it Tractor Supply for about $70 and never looked back.

Those electric tools from HF aren't worth the aggravation in my opinion.

I have a bunch of 19.2 cordless tools from Sears including a reciprocal saw that have been great. Even better since I switch to the Lithium batteries. The newer version of the same tools seem to be not as good though. Duplicated my home tools for work and the drill is sub par but has worked okay.

 

[sd455dan]

I tried this approach with 4-1/2" grinders. My 25+ year old Craftsman blew up much like the OPs sawsall. Bought a $10 coupon grinder from HF that had no torque and blew up about the 4th time I used it. Upscaled to the $30 grinder with the same results. Found a 9 amp Dewalt on sale it Tractor Supply for about $70 and never looked back.

Those electric tools from HF aren't worth the aggravation in my opinion.

I have a bunch of 19.2 cordless tools from Sears including a reciprocal saw that have been great. Even better since I switch to the Lithium batteries. The newer version of the same tools seem to be not as good though. Duplicated my home tools for work and the drill is sub par but has worked okay.

My recent experience on the HF grinders has been similar...

The cords are so cheap that after a couple uses (literally) the insulation is ripped and exposing the 120 vac wiring.
Low torque and easily overheated, HF is cheeping out on the grinders- had a couple bought in the 1980s from them that lasted until recently .
The new ones they are selling are not worth the bargain price.




Agree with sending in the Milwaukee sawsall for repair.

 

[dragoneggs]

My recent experience on the HF grinders has been similar... The cords are so cheap that after a couple uses (literally) the insulation is ripped and exposing the 120 vac wiring. Low torque and easily overheated, HF is cheeping out on the grinders- had a couple bought in the 1980s from them that lasted until recently . The new ones they are selling are not worth the bargain price. Agree with sending in the Milwaukee sawsall for repair.

I have had good success with my fleet of JF grinders. First thing on purchase I take them apart and pack with grease. Granted mine are used occasional not daily. I don't lean on them too hard either. I tend to baby my tools a bit as a general rule.

 

[sd455dan]

I have had good success with my fleet of JF grinders. First thing on purchase I take them apart and pack with grease. Granted mine are used occasional not daily. I don't lean on them too hard either. I tend to baby my tools a bit as a general rule.

It just seems the newest batch of the lower line HF have slipped a notch,
The cord covering material is flexible- but tore almost immediately and using even moderate grinding pressure caused the internals to get the case almost to hot to hold also began to smell hot in an unacceptably short amount of time.
Bought the HD paddle switched grinder and it is working ok so far.
I will buy the HD HF grinders- or find good used name brands from now on.

 

[bcp]

If you buy a 4 amp grinder, then work it hard enough to draw 6 amps. don't expect it to last long. And don't be surprised your replacement 9 amp grinder is better.



Bruce

 

[dragoneggs]

If you buy a 4 amp grinder, then work it hard enough to draw 6 amps. don't expect it to last long. And don't be surprised your replacement 9 amp grinder is better.



Bruce

Is the case with any electric motor... draw more than it is rated for and you will burn it up.

 

[EddieWalker]

How long did it take you to cut two 2x4's? I do 90 percent of all my sawzall cutting with an 18 volt Makita cordless sawzall without any issues. I also have an older Milwakee plug in sawzall similar to yours that I use when I know I'm doing a ton of cutting, or if I don't feel like walking to me truck to get my cordless. I keep the Milwakee in my shop.

The reason I ask how long you where cutting is that if you had a dull blade, you could be there for quite awhile and overheat the motor. Especially in summer. I buy new blades all the time and with a basic demo blade, would expect to cut through a 2x4 in ten to 15 seconds.