Faucet replacement

/ Faucet replacement #1  

rekees4300

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Feb 13, 2010
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Indiana
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JD4300
I have a hose faucet that drips and needs to be replaced. It's attached to a drop ear elbow which is soldered to 3/4 inch copper pipe. Threads are sealed with what appears to be plumbers putty (aka pipe dope). Have tried to unscrew it with 2 biggest wrenches I have and it wont budge. Afraid of breaking the copper pipe. Any suggestions?

View attachment 471514View attachment 471508
 
/ Faucet replacement #2  
Is there anyway you can support the elbow and then remove the hose bib?

Sometimes a little heat can work wonders too.
 
/ Faucet replacement #4  
Turn off water to faucet and get cheater bar for pipe wrench.
Try to support elbow
 
/ Faucet replacement #5  
Turn off water, drain line, unsolder elbow from copper pipe, clamp elbow in vise and remove / replace faucet, resolder elbow to copper pipe and turn water back on.
 
/ Faucet replacement #6  
Turn off water, drain line, unsolder elbow from copper pipe, clamp elbow in vise and remove / replace faucet, resolder elbow to copper pipe and turn water back on.

This is what will be required after using a cheater bar or bigger wrenches. Try heat first and then do it the easy way!
 
/ Faucet replacement #7  
So far this year I've had to replace the rubber gasket inside four outside faucets. I don't understand what's going on with them, or why all of a sudden so many of them are falling apart. Fortunately all of my faucets are the kind that I can unscrew the tops of them and get to the gasket without having to take the entire spicket off of the wall.

Hope you can get it off, but sometimes no matter what you do, you just have to cut the pipe and sweat on a new fitting.
 
/ Faucet replacement
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Is the faucet the kind that can be repaired?
How to Fix a Leaky Outdoor Faucet - YouTube

No, there is no way to repair the faucet. Handle isn't removable. Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll try pipe wrench with cheater bar first then if that doesn't work will add some heat. Should the heat be applied to faucet or elbow? If applied to faucet wouldn't that cause threads to expand making them even tighter? If applied to elbow wouldn't that cause solder to melt? :confused3:
 
/ Faucet replacement #9  
I think it's just really tight in order to have the tap vertical should get it with patience and a cheater bar. Could replace it with a ball valve tap not more drips.
 
/ Faucet replacement #10  
No, there is no way to repair the faucet. Handle isn't removable. Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll try pipe wrench with cheater bar first then if that doesn't work will add some heat. Should the heat be applied to faucet or elbow? If applied to faucet wouldn't that cause threads to expand making them even tighter? If applied to elbow wouldn't that cause solder to melt? :confused3:

apply heat (not a lot) B-4 trying to break it free.. I don't worry about replacing rubber seals /gaskets in outside spigots.. I replaced with 1/4 turn ball valves
 
/ Faucet replacement #11  
Ideally, you'd want to heat the drop elbow enough to expand the metal but not enough to melt the solder. You could use a fresh piece of solder on the existing sweat joint to evaluate when you're getting close. When you DO get close, a cold, wet cloth on the valve body will quickly cool it relative to the elbow.

I'd be surprised if that valve can't be disassembled somehow. They had to assemble it somehow when it was manufactured.
 
/ Faucet replacement #12  
No, there is no way to repair the faucet. Handle isn't removable. ----------------

I have never seen one with a handle that isn't removable.

Can you post some pictures?
 
/ Faucet replacement
  • Thread Starter
#13  
/ Faucet replacement #14  
When I'm working with copper/brass my go to wrenches are flare wrenches because they will not round off the corners like an open end wrench.

I would still try a little heat if I could do it safely...
 
/ Faucet replacement #15  
Okay here are some pics. The handle is removable but the stem isn't. The stem rotates 1/4 turn but that's it. It will not unscrew or pull out. FYI the stem is the location of the leak.

View attachment 471728View attachment 471729View attachment 471730View attachment 471731View attachment 471732

Seeing the pictures; use bigger wrenches, don't just wrench on the valve. Make sure you put a wrench on the 90.

Also it would not be that big of deal to sweat that off and just sweat on a new drop eared 90.
 
/ Faucet replacement #16  
Seeing the pictures; use bigger wrenches, don't just wrench on the valve. Make sure you put a wrench on the 90.

Also it would not be that big of deal to sweat that off and just sweat on a new drop eared 90.
Or cut it above the 90 and put on a push to connect (sharkbite or whatever).

No sweat :)

I know a lot of people swear at push-to-connect fittings but this is right out in the open so you could easily monitor it.
 
/ Faucet replacement #19  
I believe it to be a ball valve. I sell lots just like it. Thats why you can only turn it 1/4 turn. No repair replace. Sharkbite push fittings work great, Aftermarket push fittings not so much.
 
/ Faucet replacement
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Or cut it above the 90 and put on a push to connect (sharkbite or whatever).

No sweat :)

I know a lot of people swear at push-to-connect fittings but this is right out in the open so you could easily monitor it.

I believe it to be a ball valve. I sell lots just like it. Thats why you can only turn it 1/4 turn. No repair replace. Sharkbite push fittings work great, Aftermarket push fittings not so much.

I like the way you guys think. :thumbsup: Soldering isn't my forte. I've ordered a Sharkbite elbow and new ball valve faucet from Amazon. Should be delivered this week. The faucet is in a shed with concrete floor and drain. Even if the Sharkbite failed the damage would be minimal.
 
 
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