LPGS For Kubota B2910

[rswyan]

I have 2 that I have made, one about 7' wide and the other is 4 1/2' wide. Both have 4 crosses 2 on a angle and the back 2 stright. The 2 front ones have old grader blades turn around so the edge well cut better with the angle iron at 45 deg. I set the 3pt hook up to float and use the 3pt to do my adjusting while gradeing. I added 1' of skid plate after the last cross and as I get to the end I raise the 3pt up slow until it rides up on the 1' add on. That way I leave no piles, also the 1' add ons are turned up a little. I also made places to mount weights when I need to.

Thanks. Good data.

 

[rswyan]

The one I made a few years ago , I used 12" I beam from a hitch off a moble home I think ?? (it was in the scrap yard, So I bought it) . Added 1/4" plate on the inside to create a flat surface. Used 3/8" x 3.5" x 3.5" angle for the blade mounts . Blades are angled back at around a 25 degree angle and angled from side to side at something similar I think . Blades angle opposite of each other when looking from front to back . For Blades , I used 1/2" x 6" stock . Did not even grind the edge.

Yeah, I'd imagine that just dragging it will do that ... eventually.

Driveway is shale at over 800 feet long . I run it up the driveway maybe 3 or 4 times a year , make around 8 to 10 passes during each of those outings . Have barely wore off the rust on the flat steel that I used for the blades . Move Rock ? Well Blades are only set for a 1/2" depth and that is the most I will run . Tried 1" and tractor did not want to pull all that rock up the 14% grade at top of driveway.

Yup.

Not sure what it all weighs, but You know it when You pick it up with the TC30. I have added a 2' piece of chain link fenching at the back as a sort of " Drag " , that takes out any minor sort of rock clump.

I'll bet ...

Thanks.

 

[Leejohn]

Moble home frame is what also used. For some reason mine looks wider then yours maybe just the pictures. I also need to make the skids a little wider, but I think I'm only going to do it in the front not the total length.

 

[rswyan]

Top link tabs welded on:

 

[FredH]

Can't remember Who built it , But there was a thread a few years ago , Member built one that You could turn handles on each side to adjust blade depth . It was awesome . I don't have enough between the ears to accomplish something that nice , but mine works for this simpleton Mine is right at 7' wide and around 9' long . Yours is looking really nice :thumbsup:

Fred H.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Can't remember Who built it , But there was a thread a few years ago , Member built one that You could turn handles on each side to adjust blade depth . It was awesome . I don't have enough between the ears to accomplish something that nice , but mine works for this simpleton Mine is right at 7' wide and around 9' long . Yours is looking really nice :thumbsup:

Fred H.

I'm quite sure that was one of BFreaky's builds

 

[rswyan]

I think Rustyiron's design incorporated that type of adjustment as well.

Been fairly nice outside here last few days, so with all the rain prior I'm trying to get caught up on outdoor work and not much progress on the LPGS. Did manage to get the angle for the blade carriers and the tailgate cut down to 60" and get some grinding done on a few things in prep for welding.

 

[rswyan]

Next door neighbor - the heavy equipment wrench - stopped by this evening bearing gifts of treasure.

They're 37" long x 1/2" thick ... holes are on 6" centers. He didn't know what they came off of, and they're worn down a bit (4 1/2" wide) ... one side is considerably more worn than the other ... 1 7/8" from the center of the bolt hole to the edge vs. 2 1/2" from the center of the bolt hole to the edge on the other side:

The backs are kinda crusty ... probably work them over good with the needle scaler and then hit them with some phosphoric acid:

 

[ovrszd]

Hmmmmm.... Not sure what they would have been used on. They are from a cutting blade of some kind. Look how the end is worn off more. Almost rounded. That's been a leading end of a moldboard of some kind. But they should work great for you.

 

[Rustyiron]

They look like a reversible boce from a backhoe. (front bucket bolt on cutting edge) Should work if they are worn close to equally on each half. I'd put the point in front to do the cutting.

 

[rswyan]

Hmmmmm.... Not sure what they would have been used on.

Yeah ... I've had no luck in identifying them.

They are from a cutting blade of some kind. Look how the end is worn off more. Almost rounded. That's been a leading end of a moldboard of some kind.

They are worn rounded, both vertically (at the vertical edge on the end) and front to rear.

IOW, they are thinner near the end than they are in the middle.

But they should work great for you.

Yup ... just need to figure out the spacing to trim them.

Need to take 7" off each one.

The cutting edges on them could stand to be ground as well from the looks of them.

Will probably only use the less worn edge.

Anyone have any thoughts on the amount of stick-out below the blade carriers ?

 

[rswyan]

They look like a reversible boce from a backhoe. (front bucket bolt on cutting edge) Should work if they are worn close to equally on each half.

They seem to be worn identically ... possibly a two-piece boce set up ... which would account for them being worn equally.

I'd put the point in front to do the cutting.

Huh ?

 

[Rustyiron]

2nd pic, the bolt that's still left would be the same way I would bolt it to your angle. (point in front)
Since it's not a grader blade, I think it would cut better with the "point" leading.
Did that work?

 

[rswyan]

Yup ... I think follow you now.

IOW, mount it so the bevel on the cutting edge is facing up.

Not sure that would work ... since it uses plow bolts and the recesses for the heads are on the other side.

 

[jenkinsph]

Yup ... I think follow you now.

IOW, mount it so the bevel on the cutting edge is facing up.

Not sure that would work ... since it uses plow bolts and the recesses for the heads are on the other side.

I would not do that, the blade would quickly wear away until it corrected itself.

 

[bcp]

Blade bevel:



Bruce

 

[farmer2009]

Those cutting edges look to be off a dozer. The way they're worn leads me to think a 6-way blade.

If so they are meant to run point forward and bevel back.

 

[rswyan]

I would not do that, the blade would quickly wear away until it corrected itself.

Yup, that was my thought ... not to mention the issue of the plow bolts not being flush.

 

[rswyan]

Blade bevel:

View attachment 469982

Bruce

:thumbsup:

 

[rswyan]

Those cutting edges look to be off a dozer. The way they're worn leads me to think a 6-way blade.

If so they are meant to run point forward and bevel back.

Point forward and bevel down IOW.