Tractor Sizing HP and loader sizing question

[carlhwv]

Currently have a green 3720. Really like it, but i need more power, just not sure how much.

I purchased a nice tract of some pasture, more mature hard wood. Need enough power to skid large 24-36" logs and run a FEL with grapple to load them onto a portable saw mill. Also, need to keep center of gravity as low as possible as I will be doing work ona pretty good slope. Finally, if I can find the right for and it will accept a hoe it would help with the initial work I need to do for the septic field, but this isn't a must have.

Looking for size recommendations for HP/hydro flow rates from anyone who has done similar tasks. Would rather get right size and go used than get a bright new one that is undersized. I like the way the attachments fit on the green ones, but orange, red, and blue are OK if they fit the bill.

Lost the bid at auction on a green 5083 which was probably a good thing. Thinking that one was a bit large, but if could have gotten it for 20K I would have made it work.....

I need help.....

Carl

 

[ovrszd]

Sounds like you need a Utility class tractor. Something in the 5xxx series if Deere. M series if Kubota. 4xxx series or T4.xx if NH.

Deere is the heaviest in the machines. Kubota is the lightest.

Utility class tractors are generall short wheel based and low center of gravity.

I use my Kubota M9540 with FEL and Grapple working steep timber. Carry a lot of heavy loads with the Grapple. Tractor is amazingly stable.

I bought it new in '12 for $43K.

Utility tractors hold their value very well. Be prepared to pay a premium price for one well kept and moderate hours.

 

[jb1390]

Currently have a green 3720. Really like it, but i need more power, just not sure how much.

I purchased a nice tract of some pasture, more mature hard wood. Need enough power to skid large 24-36" logs and run a FEL with grapple to load them onto a portable saw mill. Also, need to keep center of gravity as low as possible as I will be doing work ona pretty good slope. Finally, if I can find the right for and it will accept a hoe it would help with the initial work I need to do for the septic field, but this isn't a must have.

Looking for size recommendations for HP/hydro flow rates from anyone who has done similar tasks. Would rather get right size and go used than get a bright new one that is undersized. I like the way the attachments fit on the green ones, but orange, red, and blue are OK if they fit the bill.

Lost the bid at auction on a green 5083 which was probably a good thing. Thinking that one was a bit large, but if could have gotten it for 20K I would have made it work.....

I need help.....

Carl

Check out the Mahindra 3550, or if you are going used the 5035 (tier 3 version). Not sure if transmission type is important to you, but generally once you end up in the utility class, you cannot get hydrostatic. For precise loader work around a sawmill, I would think that might be important. From what I found, the 3550 is the biggest, heaviest, and most capable machine in the 50 hp class, with a hydrostatic transmission. That's why I have one - the vast majority of my tasks are loader related.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Not sure if transmission type is important to you, but generally once you end up in the utility class, you cannot get hydrostatic. For precise loader work around a sawmill, I would think that might be important.

I haven't found that true at all...

I have a gear tranny in my "sawmill tractor" and it works perfectly around my sawmill...

To the OP:

IF you have logs THAT big, you better be looking at "utility" tractors, IF you want the "front end" on your tractor to last...

SR

 

[jb1390]

I haven't found that true at all...

I have a gear tranny in my "sawmill tractor" and it works perfectly around my sawmill...

To the OP:

IF you have logs THAT big, you better be looking at "utility" tractors, IF you want the "front end" on your tractor to last...

SR

YMMV, but most people find hydro to be easier and more precise than gear, especially on hills.

I concur to look at the construction of the front end when making the choice, knowing that it will be loaded heavy.

 

[carlhwv]

I haven't found that true at all...

I have a gear tranny in my "sawmill tractor" and it works perfectly around my sawmill...

To the OP:

IF you have logs THAT big, you better be looking at "utility" tractors, IF you want the "front end" on your tractor to last...

SR

That looks like a big log....mine will be mostly in the 24-30" range with a few up to 36". Pretty sure I need to go utility, just not sure how much HP/hydro flow. On the back end of another post Ovrsvd mentioned his M9540, which interestingly was one I was looking at. Looks like 60 is about max HP range I have found in HST.

When looking at clutch units, knowing operator and use has a lot to do with it, what kind of hour range can I expect to get before a clutch job? Should I be concerned when looking at machine in the 1500-2500 HR range? What about synchro vs power reverser...opinions on either?

 

[ovrszd]

That looks like a big log....mine will be mostly in the 24-30" range with a few up to 36". Pretty sure I need to go utility, just not sure how much HP/hydro flow. On the back end of another post Ovrsvd mentioned his M9540, which interestingly was one I was looking at. Looks like 60 is about max HP range I have found in HST.

When looking at clutch units, knowing operator and use has a lot to do with it, what kind of hour range can I expect to get before a clutch job? Should I be concerned when looking at machine in the 1500-2500 HR range? What about synchro vs power reverser...opinions on either?

With a dry plate clutch you need to be very considerate in it's use.

With most late model Utility tractors the clutch is a wet clutch. They will stand a LOT of use and rarely fail.

I also prefer a Hydraulic Shuttle.

Don't worry too much about GPM flow rates. I don't recall you listing any uses that would require a specific amount in the high numbers? My Kubota has 3rd function on the FEL and 3 rear remotes. I never notice a low flow rate. When I've got my hydraulic scarifier Box Blade on and Grapple on the FEL I am using all of my functions, although not all at once.

You are going to have to do some serious, dedicated shopping to find a used tractor to fit your needs. You'll also spend a lot of time and drive a lot of miles looking at "Frogs" before you find a "Prince".

Don't pay before you see and run the tractor.

 

[terryknight]

how long are these 24-36" logs? I have a 5055E with the 553 loader.

i could pick up this log 23" on end 26" the other and 23 ftish green oak



but not this one 25"-30" 18ft long (though it was close)



after this elm long dried out a bit i could lift it



the backhoe had no issues



i also wish i had spent the extra ~$3K for the power reverser. i expect at least 1800 hrs from the clutch on this tractor. we had ~ 2400 hrs on the gear tractor we sold last year and had adjusted the clutch pedal twice

 

[Sawyer Rob]

My loader tractor above has a dry clutch and still works perfectly... It's NOT about hours, IF you choose the proper gear in the first place, INSTEAD of slipping the clutch all the time, a dry clutch is a non-issue!!

30" logs require a heavy front end and a strong loader, if you are loading unloading them very much...

I PREFER a gear tranny to a hydro, I see NO advantage to the hydro for this size tractor, or around my mill...

SR

 

[carlhwv]

My thought I hours refered to looking at used and what I might expect. Thanks for the pics of your 5055. I honk I will have some over the size limit you found. Recognizing:

'30" logs require a heavy front end and a strong loader....'

and not knowing a lot about what I ought to specifically look for on a front end I'm guessing machines in the utility class should have what I need? I need to stay around 30k budget. Does the m7040 have a good enuf front end? Found a place in FL that has some 2014s almost we around 150 hour in budget. Still knowing someone is using a 9540 I the capacity I'm describing is a good positive. Kubota makes a low profile version of this tractor.I can see some pluses on a slope...what is the minus?

 

[ovrszd]

A Kubota 7040 or the later 7060 is considerably smaller than the 8540/9540 or it's newer brothers 8560/9960. Go to the Kubota website and read up on the specs, you'll see the differences.

You should understand that any tractor with the factory FEL that belongs on it has enough front end to handle the load. It's when you buy a tractor and then put an aftermarket FEL on that you risk upsetting that balance.

Try to visit dealer's lots of all brands and educate yourself. Even it it's newer model stuff that you can't budget you will learn what size tractor you feel comfortable with. Also gather dealer brochures. They list all the technical specs and it's an education you can absorb while sitting in the recliner with no pressure. When I bought my M9540 I had never saw one in person. Educated myself and knew what specs I needed/wanted. Drove 4.5hrs to the dealer's lot, spent about 30 minutes on the tractor and hauled it home. No regrets.

 

[carlhwv]

I looked at a lot of the compacts before I bought my 3720. Have to move a bit quicker on this one that I would like as I wasn't expecting to get the land last weekend and I have to work to get a track cut to get it perced. I appreciate the feedback. Pretty much confirmed what I was thinking. Called about this one today. Pretty sure it's going to fit the bill:

http://http://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/9950485/kubota-m9540

 

[terryknight]

looks good though i'd want another set or two of rear remotes

 

[carlhwv]

And some new tires....

 

[carlhwv]

A Kubota 7040 or the later 7060 is considerably smaller than the 8540/9540 or it's newer brothers 8560/9960. Go to the Kubota website and read up on the specs, you'll see the differences.

You should understand that any tractor with the factory FEL that belongs on it has enough front end to handle the load. It's when you buy a tractor and then put an aftermarket FEL on that you risk upsetting that balance.

Try to visit dealer's lots of all brands and educate yourself. Even it it's newer model stuff that you can't budget you will learn what size tractor you feel comfortable with. Also gather dealer brochures. They list all the technical specs and it's an education you can absorb while sitting in the recliner with no pressure. When I bought my M9540 I had never saw one in person. Educated myself and knew what specs I needed/wanted. Drove 4.5hrs to the dealer's lot, spent about 30 minutes on the tractor and hauled it home. No regrets.

So I took your advice, and man am I glad I did.

Looked at Deere, Kubota, and Mihandra. Hands down, the Mihandra m75 and m85s are absolute beasts. They are beefy, have specs that will meet or exceed what I needed to do and when compared to their counterparts in green and orange, their pricing would allow me to go with new for the price I could get used. While I want to buy outright, at 0% for 84 months and a 5 year warranty I think I would be hard pressed not to go in this direction.

What am I missing?

 

[ovrszd]

I have no experience with Mahindra. There are a lot of happy Mahindra owners on here. Maybe start a thread about those models in the Mahindra section here?

 

[4570Man]

How long are the 36" logs? A 36" log gets heavy fast.

 

[carlhwv]

How long are the 36" logs? A 36" log gets heavy fast.

View attachment 466769

The biggest one I saw was a Red Oak. Haven't cut any yet.

 

[jenkinsph]

The biggest one I saw was a Red Oak. Haven't cut any yet.

Might want to think about what lengths are appropriate for the species you have. Lots of red oak used for cabinetry and the length of the logs could be 8 to 12' length. If you are cutting pine for pilings or poles you might need long lengths. Depends on what you have and what you need to do.

 

[carlhwv]

Might want to think about what lengths are appropriate for the species you have. Lots of red oak used for cabinetry and the length of the logs could be 8 to 12' length. If you are cutting pine for pilings or poles you might need long lengths. Depends on what you have and what you need to do.

Even on the shorter side I'm sure we are looking at approaching 3000 lbs.....if we go longer we could eclipse 5000. Having the capability to load 4000lbs+ has been my metric...plus I've got to skid them off the hill.