Adding rear hydraulics to L2250

repete · Mar 21, 2016

bjorn773 said:
Are both press and return from your fender mounted valve going to the plate under the seat?

Yes, both lines run down.

bjorn773 · Mar 21, 2016

I'm trying to wrap my head around this. It's tapping into a pressure port on top of the 3 point, going thru an open center valve on the fender and returning back to the same port on the 3 pt? Or am I missing something? Here's what mine has at the same place.

bjorn773 · Mar 21, 2016

Just trying to figure out how to tap into this?

repete · Mar 21, 2016

Based upon what LeeJohn said a while back about an oblong O ring under the cover, I believe under the plate you may find two holes. If that is the case then the adapter plate on mine perhaps sends these two port holes to the rear control.

Leejohn · Mar 21, 2016

When you take that cover off it well be clear as mud. You can see what I'm talking about. I guess we can send as much as 10mb now. I know you said you had a parts manual but I sending the one I have, You can blow the picture up as big as you want. Go to Aux control valve #1 (option) or pg 127 in the pdf file.

repete · Mar 21, 2016

Leejohn said:
When you take that cover off it well be clear as mud. You can see what I'm talking about. I guess we can send as much as 10mb now. I know you said you had a parts manual but I sending the one I have, You can blow the picture up as big as you want. Go to Aux control valve #1 (option) or pg 127 in the pdf file.

Very clear. Thanks Leejohn.

bjorn773 · Mar 21, 2016

It looks like if I were to remove the round cover with the two bolts on mine, the "connector" as I see it in the parts manual would bolt on in place of my round cover.
Part 030 99063-93300 CONNECTOR. Is this the part you said is $300? Guess I better fire up the Bridgeport.

repete · Mar 21, 2016

bjorn773 said:
It looks like if I were to remove the round cover with the two bolts on mine, the "connector" as I see it in the parts manual would bolt on in place of my round cover.
Part 030 99063-93300 CONNECTOR. Is this the part you said is $300? Guess I better fire up the Bridgeport.

Excellent. I was going to offer to fire up my mill and make one but you have that covered.

bjorn773 · Mar 21, 2016

Not really... I inherited a bridgeport, but have not had a chance to learn how to use it. My background is as an auto tech, not a machinist.

Leejohn · Mar 21, 2016

Yes thats it. I was wrong about the olong oring, it has 2 orings the oil must pass into that cover and back out. Go to page 114 and you can see the 2 orings under that cover. Also if you hook in there you well not be able to use the remote valve and the 3pt at the same time. That part I think would be the same even if you pick up your hyds from the hyd block.

repete · Mar 21, 2016

bjorn773 said:
Not really... I inherited a bridgeport, but have not had a chance to learn how to use it. My background is as an auto tech, not a machinist.

With your bridgeport this should be a fairly simple project. The biggest issue will be cutting the groove for the O rings to be retained in. You can get the dimensions off the cover plate you remove. I will look at my hose routing and tell you which is the pressure and which is the return line (holes). I am hesitant to remove mine as it has been on for many years and if the bolt snaps in the threads I am in big trouble. I suggest you get the softest steel you can get from the supplier as it will make the machining much easier. Fortunately with O rings, you do not need a gasket quality finish. I suggest when you assemble it you use some silicone to not allow water in between the surfaces though. Have fun learning. As for careers, I burned stuff down for a living and started machining when I was 59, two years ago.

bjorn773 · Mar 22, 2016

It's an excuse to spend some learning time on the mill. Earlier it was mentioned that the kubota valve was open center. The valve I'm looking at indicates it can be converted to closed center or power beyond. Does that mean it is normally set up open center and if needed can be changed?

Prince Hydraulic Control Valve 8 GPM 2 Spool MB21BB5C1 | eBay

teg · Mar 22, 2016

bjorn773 said:
...the kubota valve was open center. The valve I'm looking at indicates it can be converted to closed center or power beyond. Does that mean it is normally set up open center and if needed can be changed?

All that was mentioned before... MAY NOT apply here.

Since it's only two lines... I don't know but yes, the valve can be modified from open to close and with power beyond or not. I'm not sure which way the valve needs to be setup...

EDIT: I think the 3 options are; open with power beyond; open without power beyond or closed. I'm not sure of the differences and how it relates to your setup.

J_J · Mar 22, 2016

FYI, the seals in a hyd valve are not designed for pressure, but to keep water/debris out.

You should also know that the spools are selected for a precision fit, and they may select 8 to 10 spools before they get one to meet specs.

For this reason, most manufacturers do not sell replacement spools for hyd valves.

What if the bore is out of round, or worn. All the straight spools in the world are not going to make it work right.

Just my take on the situation.

The normal open center valve will come as open center using an IN port and a tank port with the PB port plugged.

To make it PB capable, you remove the plug and add the PB adapter.

To make it closed center, plug the PB port or remove the PB adapter and insert a closed center plug.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/_MoreSpecs/iPrinceMBValves.pdf

s219 · Mar 22, 2016

Don't know if it's possible, but could the existing cap be machined to serve as a hydraulics connection plate? Depending on where the ports are located, I wonder if it would be possible to drill and tap some pipe threads into the cap. It likely already has o-ring grooves and o-rings.

The cap for my L3200 was on the side of the transmission case. It was thinner metal, but at the time I remember thinking how easy it would have been to make a replacement with the same pattern if I was trying to use this for generic hydraulics. In the case of the factory valve kit for the L3200, it came with a nicely machined aluminum block that bolted to the case and had the o-ring grooves machined in. Also had some fairly complex internal machining for the PB and return flows to/from the valves. Internal passages were machined and then the outside capped with plugs. The stacking valves bolted onto the block with long studs.

bjorn773 · Mar 22, 2016

I'm going to take a closer look at my cover... I may be able to drill and thread it if it is solid. Then I could use 90's to get it routed rearward. If not, I'll try machining a new cover. I am willing to spend some time in lieu of 300 bucks.

Leejohn · Mar 22, 2016

Go for it, you can do it!! If you go to Jerry's auto for your hoses tell Jay, Todd, & Tim I said hi. Post a picture of the plate when you get it done.

bjorn773 · Mar 22, 2016

Assuming I can tap in under the seat, I need to run press and ret to the valve. From the valve I just run short hoses to quick connects in back, right. One pair of hoses/quick connects for each spool?

Leejohn · Mar 22, 2016

Yes that's right.

repete · Mar 22, 2016

bjorn773 said:
I'm going to take a closer look at my cover... I may be able to drill and thread it if it is solid. Then I could use 90's to get it routed rearward. If not, I'll try machining a new cover. I am willing to spend some time in lieu of 300 bucks.

How will you separate the O rings and fill the cross connection in the cover plate. I recollect Leejohn saying the O ring was oblong with a machining to allow flow between the two ports.