Adding rear hydraulics to L2250

/ Adding rear hydraulics to L2250
  • Thread Starter
#21  
I emailed Nate today and also looked at the add on info in the Kubota parts manual. It sure seems like it would be way more economical to add aftermarket parts. I understand the keeping it all kubota argument, but my machine is close to 30 years old. I just want it functional.
 
/ Adding rear hydraulics to L2250
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Do all three spools feed the rear? Or are you running a grapple on the bucket with one of them?
 
/ Adding rear hydraulics to L2250 #24  
I emailed Nate today and also looked at the add on info in the Kubota parts manual. It sure seems like it would be way more economical to add aftermarket parts. I understand the keeping it all kubota argument, but my machine is close to 30 years old. I just want it functional.

Yes it sure would be a lot less money going aftermarket, but did you see where you can tap into the rockshaft?
 
/ Adding rear hydraulics to L2250 #25  
On my L2550 I have a factory rear and it is connected to the valving below the seat and the control is on the right fender. It was never used by the previous owner I assume as the hoses were connected backward to the tractor side when I got it. I will pull the schematic (if it is there) from the shop manual and send it to you by E-mail. Just PM me your address.
 
/ Adding rear hydraulics to L2250
  • Thread Starter
#26  
I just ordered my service manual yesterday. The pdf parts manual I have consists of very small pictures. I couldn't really tell where it was tapping into the system.
 
/ Adding rear hydraulics to L2250 #28  
On my L2550 I have a factory rear and it is connected to the valving below the seat and the control is on the right fender.../QUOTE]Do you have photos of your set up???
 
/ Adding rear hydraulics to L2250
  • Thread Starter
#29  
IMG_20160320_163853952.jpgIMG_20160320_163825696.jpgIMG_20160320_163839657_HDR.jpg

Here's what Gregg sent me. Nate from Messicks is looking to see what is still available. If I can get the piece under the seat to tap into the Hydraulics the rest shouldn't be too difficult.
 
/ Adding rear hydraulics to L2250 #30  
/ Adding rear hydraulics to L2250 #31  
I looked up the part and I don't know if it was a miss print or not, but if it wasn't you well not buy one. It said it was $300.00 and you know where they could put that. Just get one made, it's just a flat plate with 2 holes in it. Good and flat on one side and faced off for the o rings. A guy could use a back facing tool to do that. There is no way I would pay that much for a flat peace of steel with 2 tapped holes in it.
 
/ Adding rear hydraulics to L2250 #32  
I looked up the part and I don't know if it was a miss print or not, but if it wasn't you well not buy one. It said it was $300.00 and you know where they could put that. Just get one made, it's just a flat plate with 2 holes in it. Good and flat on one side and faced off for the o rings. A guy could use a back facing tool to do that. There is no way I would pay that much for a flat peace of steel with 2 tapped holes in it.

So how does the hydraulic fluid flow through it if it is a flat plate? I might well be able to machine a piece of 3/4" thick material with mounting bolt holes and then tap the plate over the hydraulic holes to accept a 3/8" pipe thread and groove for an O ring.
 
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/ Adding rear hydraulics to L2250 #33  
Your tractor is open center hyds and it goes into a OC valve and out the tank port of the valve. All you got to find out is what one on the tractor is pressure. With cover off just turn it over and you well see real quick, just don't start it if you can. Oil flows all the time the tractor is running.
 
/ Adding rear hydraulics to L2250 #34  
What does your manual say about what line are what?
 
/ Adding rear hydraulics to L2250 #35  
Your tractor is open center hyds and it goes into a OC valve and out the tank port of the valve. All you got to find out is what one on the tractor is pressure. With cover off just turn it over and you well see real quick, just don't start it if you can. Oil flows all the time the tractor is running.

On the fender mounted valve there is a label "input". I will follow the line to the connection point on the tractor.
 
/ Adding rear hydraulics to L2250 #36  
So how does the hydraulic fluid flow through it if it is a flat plate? I might well be able to machine a piece of 3/4" thick material with mounting bolt holes and then tap the plate over the hydraulic holes to accept a 3/8" pipe thread and groove for an O ring.

I miss understood part of your ?, right now the plate has a slot in it from one hole to the other with 1 oblong oring. That lets the oil flow all the time in the loop.
 
/ Adding rear hydraulics to L2250 #37  
I miss understood part of your ?, right now the plate has a slot in it from one hole to the other with 1 oblong O ring. That lets the oil flow all the time in the loop.

My tractor has the actual factory adapter plate for the rear control. The plate with the oblong cover is not on mine. I could possibly manufacture a block that does the same thing as the factory take off cover. But I could be chasing a rabbit here in this conversation... That would not be new for me. :)
 
/ Adding rear hydraulics to L2250
  • Thread Starter
#38  
Are both press and return from your fender mounted valve going to the plate under the seat?
 
/ Adding rear hydraulics to L2250 #39  
Yes you do not use a PB fitting, that's the way kubota's kit shows it.
 
/ Adding rear hydraulics to L2250
  • Thread Starter
#40  
forgive my foolish questions, what's a PB fitting?
 

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