2610D Turbocharging

[rock2610D]

Thanks Mark, its is not so much as altitude problems but the fact that at 8000 feet my factory HP is about 20% less. So, my 26 hp tractor is only a 20 HP tractor where I live. I am hoping to get her back to factory specs. Not sure anything will help with my cold weather starting issues except heaters. Turbo will never be able to boost while cranking. It may allow more heat to stay in cylinders from thermostart due to the resistance the turbine creates.

Talked to the guy who picked up the tractor in LA for me and he said it did not seem to have any problems. It still does not but I think it smokes a little too much. Expecially when appling fuel. If you have ever seen a tractor pull you know what I mean. When I installed the 1st turbo smoke color (Pitch black) went to more of a brown. I think it helped but was too big and did not boost well. IE boost too hot and still not enough O2 to really burn all fuel.

If I get good results the next additions will be an oil cooler to help compensate for increased heat turbo puts into engine, and a intercooler to help cool intake charge.

Please note I would not even think about turbocharging my tractor if I lived at a lower elevation, EXPECIALLY if the climate were hot. Even in a cool climate I can tell my tractor works hard to stay cool. The main function of this tractor is to use a 6 foot Lorenz snow blower during winter months. The factory HP rating is perfect for this blower and will allow me to move just a hair faster. Which means ALOT when it is 10 degrees out with 60 mph winds!!!

 

[rock2610D]

DING DANG DARN IT!!! Turbo is all hooked up except the oil feed line banjo fitting that is supposed to show up Thursday. Problem is that I cannot start engine now because of no oil to turbo and oil line disconnected.

Over the course of the last 5 days my loader has sunk to the point that I cannot open the hood anymore!!! I can over come this when my banjo fitting comes in. But I must now assume I have a problem with my hydraulics.

There is no external leak in hydraulic system. Is it typical for a loader to go from full up to 1/4 up in 5 days? If not what do you think would be the most likely cause?

 

[MJPetersen]

Rock,

That would not be so bad that there is a leak that needs to be repaired. That is pretty much normal, in fact not bad. The oil could be bypassing in the cylinders or the valve. It is nothing to worry about at this stage. Frustrating I know, but not to worry.

Most "safety police" will be very unhappy that you were working under a raised loader without a mechanical block for the loader cylinder. A half piece of pipe with some tie straps on the cylinder rod will work.

Mike

 

[rock2610D]

Thanks, for the info on the hydraluics. Will not worry too much about that now. Will address in the future if it get worse.

Yes, I know working under a loader is dangerous. Thought about the danger AFTER everything was disconnected and loader had sunk too far to engage the locking mechanisum. Yes I know that is even worse. My loader has a loader lock and I was too stupid to use it!!!! But I was EXCITED about my new turbo and I guess got careless.

Once it is up again I will engage the lock. Thank you for your concren.

 

[MJPetersen]

Rock,

Good go. How 'bout some pics of the installation. Are you still waiting for the banjo bolt? I am very curious how it works for you. Did you install also a turbine inlet temp, or exhaust temp?

Mike

 

[rock2610D]

I am not planning on installing a EGT sensor. I am thinking that since I am not tinkering with the fuel, engine should not get any hotter than factory specs.

Cold side temp sensors are not planned either. Once turbo is installed and running under a load I will use hands on the pressure side to determine how hot things are. If I feel intake is too warm I will add an intercooler that I have laying around off of a 2.0 liter Eagle Talon.

Pictures are forth coming. Not much I could take a photo of with hood down. Got a call from wife, banjo fitting cam via UPS today. Will install it tonight.

Just a note on this turbo install. Turbo must have a .04 inch restrictor in oil pressure side. My banjo bolt has this. Too much oil volume or pressure will blow out seals.

I have a wastegate on turbo that will initally be put in the off position. If my boost guage shows over 10psi of boost under heavy load I will be adding a wastegate controller.

 

[rock2610D]

Well everything is hooked up. Tractor runs like I never thought it would!! WOW!! Hardly any black smoke at all. If I pull full throttle in about 2 seconds all black smoke is gone.

Turbo boosts to 8 psi at full throttle under mild load. No need for a wastgate.

I am very happy right now.

Photos will follow.

 

[MJPetersen]

Great Rock, I am very happy for you. Absolutely great. I look forward to the pics. You will see a noticeable increase in power even from 8 lbs of boost. Diesels were meant to be boosted!!

Mike

 

[Jagmandave]

Late to the party...............congrats on getting it up and working. the only piece of advice I had you already covered adequately, and that was to use a large hose for the oil drain back. You used 3/4", which should be about right.
personally, I would have drilled and tapped your fitting into the side of the oil pan, near the top so it would be above the oil level, would have worked just fine, but your way should be good as well.........

 

[rock2610D]

Finally got time for photos.. I still cannot believe the increase in torque and power!!! Usually while driving up a small hill if I were to pull full throttle the tractor would maintain 2000 rpm and smoke black like a tractor at a tractor pull. NOW WOW I drive up hill and push throttle as normal and with in 3 to 5 seconds the govenor has kicked in at 2800 rpm and I back off!!! WOW!

I am still grinnen!!! If this is what a 26 HP tractor is like I cannot believe what a 40 HP tractor is like.

Couple of other things to mention. I have to get a on/off (brass) valve for thermostart. Intake pressure blows diesel fuel out of storage bowl. I have it clamped off right now as you can see from photos. Also intake manifold gasket was not designed for pressure I do not believe. I had to remove mine and install a new gasket that I cut for size. I was able to use gasket sealer on the new one. The old one was rubber and would not stay set with sealer on it. This stopped all intake leaks.

 

[rock2610D]

Jagmandave, would have loved to drill and tap oil pan. Only problem I seen is the fact that the oil pan is only about 3 inches deep and is above frame. I could see no place to tap oil pan.

Is there something I missed here. I will relocate drain if I can to a better place..

 

[blackd]

The air filter looks like a K&N. Is it a turbo/diesel rated filter? I ask only because my Ford F350 is really picky. Some owners have found in tests that the K&N is actually way worse than the original OEM filter. With tractors and the dust/pollen/dirt/etc we operate in this may become an issue with blasting the intake valves. Just askin not a recommendation.

 

[rock2610D]

Not, sure if its a diesel rated filter or not. Thanks for information, I am not going to use this filter permantely. Its just there for initial start up and testing. I am going to be running ABS from turbo to original air filter up front.

I have read some info on K&N and would probably never put one on my Powerstroke.

I have decided to put my intercooler on the tractor. Intake tube is hot to the touch. I am guessing over 120 degrees (air temp 75) intercoooler should help. Less boost with intercooler but cooler intake charge means more o2. Will have more lag but who cares with a tractor. Is not supposed to have any time slips. Just pure raw torque.

 

[rock2610D]

Was wondering if anyone has any advise on what degree of advance I need on this tractor? Typical boost at 2000 rpm under driving load going up a slight hill is 5 psi. My elevation is 8000 ft. Manual states 21 degrees. Should I set it at 21 degrees? Advance a few more degrees? or ****** some? Please keep in mind I have to plug tractors heaters in below 40 degrees due to low air pressure up here.

Also note that I do not think I have a mark on my crank wheel to indicate location that injectors should pop. I believe I have a TDC mark and another unknown mark that I cannot hit even if I remove ALL shims behind injector pump. Right now my injectors pop on what I belive to be close to the TDC mark. In other words 1 to 4 degrees advanced. The tractor seems to start better in this position in cold weather.

Please let me know if you would like to see photos of my crank pully, so you can see the timing marks I am talking about.

 

[rock2610D]

Intercooler is installed. Boost seems to come on quicker now, I am baffeled about that!! I woud have thought a longer lag with more volume to fill but it does not seem to be the case.

Boost pressure has not changed as far as PSI goes. My boost gauge is hooked to the turbocharger. I am going to hook it to the intake manifold this afternoon and see what kinda boost pressure loss I get across intercooler.

The intercooler is working, after running the tractor for about 20 minutes, I opened hood and felt intercooler. It was probably about 120 degrees on the intake side and cool to touch on exhaust side.

 

[rock2610D]

This will be my last post on this thread, due to the fact that my turbocharger project is now complete.

Hooked boost guage to intake and all is well. No noticable pressure losses. Engine runs strong and altitude is well compensated for. Turbo is the PERFECT size for this motor and it seems to LOVE the turbo. I hardly ever see black smoke except for first second or 2 that I give it throttle. I suppose the turbo may even clean up the oil because of less sueit(sp) and unused diesel passing rings.

All in all it was a good project.

Project costs:

1 Turbocharger MHI TD025M $299.00 plus shipping $30
1 banjo bolt $6 plus shipping $5
1 4 ft Stainless Steel oil line -4AN $28
1 Oil pressure tap $4
PVC pipe and clamps $28
Exhaust pipe and 1/4 inch steel plate $27
Oil return hose and 3/4 inch elbow $6
Exhaust gasket 12 inch X 12 inch $14
Valve to block pressure to thermostart bowl $4
New hose to thermostart bowl 18 cents
Boost guage $28
Hose for boost guage $1.20
My labor FREE


Total $480.38

Figure 25% increase in HP= 7hp (this is conservative, Seat of pants says this could be a 35-40 HP tractor now) Maybe more when I get my injection pump to pop correctly. Please note my injectors now pop at 1 to 3 degrees before TDC I think???

or $69 per Horsepower

One last observation! Tractor is much louder now. The exhaust system I used earlier was VERY quiet. So much so that I did not even need a muffler with the 1st turbocharger (it was too big). But now even with a turbo dampening the sound it is very loud with straight pipes. Hearing protection is now a must. Not going to use a muffler it just hinders the turbo and reduces hp.

 

[rock2610D]

Well its been over 5 years and my turbo 2610D is running great. Turbo is still cranking out between 5 and 10 psi and loving it. Only time it gets to 10 psi is when my snowblower hits a 2 or 3 foot deep drift it needs to eat thru.

Still starts without assistance at every temp encountered....lowest so far is about 10 degrees F. I have not logged on in a long while and noticed dozens of private messages on this subject. I will try to be more responsable in the future.

One thing I must say. I change the oil in my tractor every 50 hours. This is because of the turbocharger!

 

[Car Doc]

That's interesting glad it is working like you hoped it would!

I have a turbo on mine too its factory installed though. I dont have a boost gage on it but I have contemplated temporarily installing one on for the heck of it. I would have already if there was a port to do it with kindof hate to drill one just to check. I doubt it makes much pressure but might be surprised? I never hear it except when I rev it while sitting still, it has slight whistle to it thats why I doubt it makes much pressure. fwtw

 

[bmaverick]

Well its been over 5 years and my turbo 2610D is running great. Turbo is still cranking out between 5 and 10 psi and loving it. Only time it gets to 10 psi is when my snowblower hits a 2 or 3 foot deep drift it needs to eat thru.

Still starts without assistance at every temp encountered....lowest so far is about 10 degrees F. I have not logged on in a long while and noticed dozens of private messages on this subject. I will try to be more responsable in the future.

One thing I must say. I change the oil in my tractor every 50 hours. This is because of the turbocharger!

How is the tractor running now in 2014?

Just a note, the John Deere 1050 uses a sibling engine to the 3T80. It has a turbo. If the exhaust system from the JD fits the 3T80, maybe the noise would be far less and still allow the Hp gains. Just a thought.

 

[dieselcrawler]

Good thread. Any further feedback? I am interested in adding a turbo to my JD 3005, which also uses a yanmar 3 cylinder motor. It is 1.3 liter, what is the displacement of the engines discussed in this thread?