Looking for a lightweight limbcutting saw...

newbury · Jun 18, 2015

MossflowerWoods said:
I have a20" Stihl MS290 FarmBoss and I love it, but it gets heavy limbing...

I have dozens of huge beech, oak, and etc tree tops I need to process for firewood and burn pile now that the clear-cutting is done

I like Stihl.
<snip>

With

dozens of huge beech, oak, and etc tree tops

I'm surprised anyone mentioned a sawzall.

I've a range of Stihls (021, 660, 660, 088) and a few Efco's. My go-to limbing saw on big trees (that I convinced to lay down with a 660) is a John Deere CS62 (rebadged Efco 62CC) with a 28" bar. I've a "bad back" and the long bar makes up for the 3 extra pounds over the 021 w/16" bar. The JD CS62 is about the same weight/displacement as your 290.

Now if I have to go UP in the tree to remove limbs then I prefer the 021 for limbs over about 3" or a good bow saw for smaller limbs.

Maybe you just need a longer bar for your 290. Bailey's lists them for up to 42 inches.

I've got a 42" bar for my 660's.

When I choose to limb with that there is no bending over

But that's another 4 pounds heavier

Sodo · Jun 18, 2015

MossflowerWoods said:
I have a20" Stihl MS290 FarmBoss and I love it, but it gets heavy limbing...

I have dozens of huge beech, oak, and etc tree tops I need to process for firewood and burn pile now that the clear-cutting is done

This is limbing in my book. No use for a sawzall here!

Loggers like a long bar for limbing cuz it saves their back not bending over and they are conditioned to carry a heavy saw. They start a rhythm using the tip rotation to bounce the saw up from branch to branch thats pretty efficient. Normal guy just needs a lightweight saw but will have to bend over.

I had a Stihl MS180 that I liked a lot. Effortless to start, light weight but no longer produced, replaced by MS192. I wish I bought a MS192 but in a weak moment got a MS201.

Trails End · Jun 19, 2015

I'm surprised that nobody has mentioned the Stihl MS150 TC. It's a small light weight
saw that weighs only 5.7 lbs. Check it out at Object moved.
I purchased one for my wife to use for trimming lower limbs on trees. It's certainly
easier on my tired back than my Stihl 032AVQ.

tawilson · Jun 19, 2015

Yep on the top handle saw. A buddy has the Stihl and after checking it out I bought the Husky version yesterday. Haven't put any gas in it yet though.

motownbrowne · Jun 19, 2015

I'm surprised that no one has suggested the Stihl ms 241c-m. I haven't used one personally, but they are a lightweight pro saw that comes very highly reviewed from the tree service industry.

To me it would depend on how much limbing you're gonna do. Just a little bit, and I'd get a 35-40cc Echo or homeowner stihl. A lot of limbing, and I'd go for a pro stihl, but that's just my preference.

s219 · Jun 19, 2015

Top handle saws have their place -- for me it's for most work I need to do when I don't have two feet on the ground -- and they are handy to carry on a tractor for brush cutting. But just keep in mind they sacrifice a *lot* of safety, especially as you cut near the tip of the bar. I can use a top handle saw all day long for tree work, one-handed or two-handed, but on the ground I'd much prefer a saw that provides a better and more secure two-handed grip.

LD1 · Jun 19, 2015

Wow, from a chainsaw, to a sawzall, to an axe.

I agree with other posters about just what kind of limbing you are doing. Buzzing up 3"+ pieces back to the trunk for firewood is what I call limbing. Now way would a sawzall be efficient. And hard to chop off 3" pieces with an axe when they are 10' away and unsupported.

But when doing something like a pine tree where all the limbs are smaller and soft wood, I have a brush axe like this GroundWork® Bush Axe - Tractor Supply Co. that can cut clean through 2" or 3" limbs with 1 swing. Just a very handy tool to have that I have found many uses for.

As to saws, A dolmar PS351 or PS421 would be my choice for a limbing saw. The 029 you have now is not an impressive saw at all. overweight and underpowered.

Gary Fowler · Jun 19, 2015

Unlike many of you, I don't have dozens of different saws and since I only use them for removing a few limbs or sawing up a fallen tree, I only need one saw. I bought a Husky 240 first and while it works fairly well, it is a bit underpowered. I got my Stihl MS270 used for $100 from my brother in law because he couldn't pull the starter rope due to rotator cuff surgery which left him a bit weak in the shoulder. I haven't had the Husky out of the case since. The Stihl is lighter and much more powerful and faster revving so it rips thru a log quickly. Just from watching the chips and listening to the engine, I think the Stihl runs faster under load than the Husky does unloaded. I have no issue using the Stihl for falling or limbing as it handles both equally well. I replaced the 16" bar with an 18" which is the largest the Stihl dealer recommended for that saw. I think it would handle a 20" very well though but the 18" is plenty big for my uses and I don't need the extra weight of the larger bar and chain either.

The best saw for any cutting activity is one that first of you can afford and second one that you can lift and wield effectively without over tiring. The absolute worst thing you can do is operate a chainsaw when you are tired and weak from exhaustion.

MossflowerWoods · Jun 19, 2015

This is what I mean by limbing.

MOST of what I have to cut that is already on the ground is somewhere in one of those pics. Under the whole beech tree in Pic #4 there are at least 3 oak tops buried/behind it.

Have a great Dad's Day weekend all!
Be well!
David

Coyote machine · Jun 19, 2015

MossflowerWoods said:
This is what I mean by limbing.

MOST of what I have to cut that is already on the ground is somewhere in one of those pics. Under the whole beech tree in Pic #4 there are at least 3 oak tops buried/behind it.
View attachment 430329 View attachment 430330

View attachment 430331 View attachment 430332

View attachment 430333 View attachment 430334

Have a great Dad's Day weekend all!
Be well!
David

Here's the dilemma as I see it. You have a microburst of downed trees, partial trees and leaders, branches, scattered everywhere over a large plot of land. The stuff already on the ground has been there for some time and makes cleanup that much harder. Partly because the longer you leave leaders/trees etc. on the ground the harder it is to do cleanup. The branches get stiff vs. when freshly felled and dirt from rain is now on lots of the wood, making it tough on chain and bar, regardless of what saw you use.
I would not use a top handle saw on that project because of the inherent dangers of the saw's primary use, IN tree work, not for use on the ground due to the top handle design.
People can argue the point all day long, BUT the fact is you are way more likely to get hurt using that tool for your job.

What would I use? I would choose a saw like some of the ones mentioned by various people that have what I have. Possibly the MS180, MS 230 or 270. All are excellent saws, IMHO. All will get the job done.

I would see if I could start by narrowing down what you were going to burn and what to save for firewood. If possible, separate them out, and then go in and cut what needs to be cut. It would depend, for me on what the exact lot laid out like. I can't tell you by the pics where I would start, but I can tell you I'd do a through walk around before just jumping into the pile. One huge advantage I have is the log grapple I have shown in my avatar. It allows me to bring any size log, branch, entire tree to cutting height with little to no effort. It also allows me to get stuff off the ground to see where I can cut to avoid dirt, rocks etc.

You might consider renting one for a week or similar, or better yet buy one! They're cheap when it comes to saving one's back, and once you have one you'll never go back.

I'd be wearing steel toed logger boots, chaps, helmet with screen. AND I'd find some folks to remove what I cut, (ground crew) to stack what was to be burned, saved, etc.

You're safer with a crew than working alone, the work goes way faster and then it's done.

KubotainNH · Jun 19, 2015

I have a small Echo that is lightweight, starts easily and will idle all day without stalling. It's super good on fuel and fit my budget. I've used it to cut 12" trees but that's really too much for it, it shines on limbing and small stuff. A co-worker talked me into it because his father (who worked for a power company down South) said his company used them with little issue.

newbury · Jun 19, 2015

MossflowerWoods said:
<snip>

I have dozens of huge beech, oak, and etc tree tops I need to process for firewood and burn pile now that the clear-cutting is done

<snip>

Why are you "processing them for firewood"? Can you sell the firewood for anything near the cost of your professional time? Process what YOU need to keep the home fires burning. The last time I looked CL was filled with "firewood" sellers. Unless you are delivering it to the affluent in DC for twice the going price it's barely worth the trouble.
Why not process them for wildlife management? LET THEM ROT.
It's the natural way. Great habitat for small animals and birds.

MossflowerWoods said:
This is what I mean by limbing.

MOST of what I have to cut that is already on the ground is somewhere in one of those pics. Under the whole beech tree in Pic #4 there are at least 3 oak tops buried/behind it.
View attachment 430329 View attachment 430330

View attachment 430331 View attachment 430332

View attachment 430333 View attachment 430334

Have a great Dad's Day weekend all!
Be well!
David

Your pics look similar to a 20 acre portion of my little 70 acre lot. Only the last pic looks like a mess.
View attachment 430334

I realize you are asking for advice on a saw, but it seems a lot of it could be handled by:
A little cutting
Dragging (or get a good grapple) the stuff that is not where YOU want it to a place YOU want it.

I'd be more concerned about reseeding/planting (Feb? March?) and what the next crop is for your daughters. Once I get a tree to lie down mother nature takes it course. Rotting into the soil is not a bad thing and I think it's better than burning a brushpile (though not as exciting).

MossflowerWoods · Jun 20, 2015

Most of the wood is in roughly two areas. one close to the house, the other next to where the loader was located.

My plan is to buck most of the tops into 8' logs and stack them to dry closer to the house.

I have a grapple to move them around, I have a ton of small downed trees to lay down on the bottom to keep them of the ground.

My girlfriend is my crew and we will eat this elephant the usual way, one bite at a time.

I will burn much of this in my wood stove, but I will sell some of it for beer money. I will learn as I do this so I will be come a better rural homeowner and less of a n00b so that has value also. Mostly I suspect I will sell or give wood to my neighbors and friends. Goodwill also has value. I do not expect to turn a profit.

Most of the land is shockingly clear, and yes I will replant Loblolly Pine in the spring,at least 45 acres of it. I have excellent soil for trees.

I picked up a splitter yesterday at Lowe's on the Father's Day sale, which will also make this process smoother.

I am 90% sure I will buy s261's MS261, and I think I might go get an Echo CS-400 today for limbing/lighter work, and then sell my MS290.

As always, the Univ of TBN has been chock full of great ideas and knowledge to help me learn how to do these things I seem to want to do now that I live in the country.

Thanks again & Be well,
David

RalphVa · Jun 20, 2015

I like our Kobalt 40v one. It's plenty light to carry up a tree. No starting problem when you get up there either.

Ralph

motownbrowne · Jun 20, 2015

MossflowerWoods said:
Most of the wood is in roughly two areas. one close to the house, the other next to where the loader was located.

My plan is to buck most of the tops into 8' logs and stack them to dry closer to the house.

I have a grapple to move them around, I have a ton of small downed trees to lay down on the bottom to keep them of the ground.

My girlfriend is my crew and we will eat this elephant the usual way, one bite at a time.

I will burn much of this in my wood stove, but I will sell some of it for beer money. I will learn as I do this so I will be come a better rural homeowner and less of a n00b so that has value also. Mostly I suspect I will sell or give wood to my neighbors and friends. Goodwill also has value. I do not expect to turn a profit.

Most of the land is shockingly clear, and yes I will replant Loblolly Pine in the spring,at least 45 acres of it. I have excellent soil for trees.

I picked up a splitter yesterday at Lowe's on the Father's Day sale, which will also make this process smoother.

I am 90% sure I will buy s261's MS261, and I think I might go get an Echo CS-400 today for limbing/lighter work, and then sell my MS290.

As always, the Univ of TBN has been chock full of great ideas and knowledge to help me learn how to do these things I seem to want to do now that I live in the country.

Thanks again & Be well,
David

Selling the farm boss is a good plan. The Echo plus a 261 sounds perfect, and will compliment your big saw when you decide you need one.

frogpond · Jun 21, 2015

I started with a Stihl MS180 and a 16" bar--your basic homeowner backyard occasional use outfit. I used it pretty hard on our 11 acres of thick second and third growth Douglas fir, hemlock, and red cedar. We are clearing up lots of old logging slash, pulling logs out of streams, cutting leaners, etc. The 180 kept needing repair, so I added an MS 291 with 20" bar. It had a lot more power and a heftier chain, and was the right saw for felling and bucking bigger logs. But I still need a smaller saw for lots of things, including limbing. After a while, my old-time saw repair guy told me it wasn't worth putting any more money into the 180. He suggested an MS 211 with 16" bar as a reasonable combination of heavier duty, more power, heavier chain, and only a little more weight than the 180. I've had it about a year, and have been very pleased with its reliability and power.

On the other side, my wife wanted "her own saw", so she ordered a Greenworks 40v cordless electric. I don't tell her what I think, which is that it's an unsafe toy--weak, no torque, very slow, very lightly built, and lacks safety features (no anti-kickback chain brake! --How do they get away with that?) But the manual is printed on rough, brown, recycled paper; so it must be good. By the way, It's not light. The weight with battery is the same as the MS 211.

yomax4 · Jun 24, 2015

Your saw choice should be sized to your physical ability. I like an 026 pro with a 20" bar for limbs. I have an old 039 as a go to saw and a 44 mag for real cutting. Some guys on here use 088 saws. It's up to your body.

MossflowerWoods · Aug 24, 2015

So on Saturday on the way to Norfolk to have lunch with my future step-son and his lady, the Fiancee and I had the pleasure of meeting Mr & Mrs S219 and I picked up my NEW favorite saw, his very nice CS261 Stihl... They have a lovely craftsman style home with many features I wish to copy like the awesome poplar bark siding in the screen porch/sun room (SWEET!)

Anyway like every other TBN guy I've met he was solid gold good guy and I LOVE this saw!

yesterday I cut down a number of small trees, and a couple fruit trees past their prime, and a medium sized bradford pear tree. I also removed am over gropw crepe myrtle and got up on a ladder cut all the lower branches of the maple that had become a weeping maplein the front yard. I trimmed similar lower branches from a coupe other trees also.

The saw ran like a hot knife through butter an I can lift my arms this morning. And I did all of that on less than its first tank of gas. It starts easy, and runs awesome.

The Echo cs400is still in its box in the basement...

I am now gonna clean up my 20"Farmboss and sell it on Craigslist... I've found a new love...

Be well all,
David

s219 · Aug 24, 2015

It was good to meet you guys David, and glad to hear you like the saw! I think it's one of Stihl's best new saws in recent years, and packs a lot of punch for a light 50cc saw. It really puts the bigger heavier Farm Boss to shame. I hope you get a lot of good years out of it.

While I mainly used the 261 for trees about 12" and smaller, it was used to fell a 36" cypress one time. My wife's uncle (former tree service pro) has an old Stihl 044, but it was misbehaving that day. So he asked if I thought the 261 could do it, and I said sure, but how are you going to cut a 36" tree with an 18" bar? He said just watch, and showed us young guys how it's done in like 1-2-3 cuts. Stands back as the tree falls, lets the saw idle for a bit, cuts it off, and then hands it to me saying "that thing is mean for a little saw!".