Rotary Cutter Can i brush hog it?

[brs077]

Hey all, I've got a 2014 NH workmaster 40 and a lot of thick brush to clear. As you can see in the picture, this is the tractor parked in the middle of what I'd like to clear. Most of it is less than 1.5" thick, but it is dense. Will this tractor be strong enough to pull a rotary cutter big enough to clear it?

Regardless, I've been looking at cutters and the Rhino 172 and Woods BB72x are both available nearby, as is the NH model. All three are similarly priced and slip clutch driven, with similar specs. Does one have a better track record? The WM40 has a 3ph lift capacity of 1300 lbs, and is 38 hp, 31hp at the pto. Would the loader be enough ballast, or would I need additional weight up front? Any other questions I should be asking?

 

[bumperm]

I think it'll cut it. May have to take it slow. Just make sure the rear of the cutter's rear deck is higher than the front so it doesn't tend to bog the cutter down so much.

 

[Wagtail]

G'day and welcome to TBN from Downunder.

The FEL with the bucket will be enough ballast although, with that amount of bush, I'd go for suitcase weights up front to get you visibility. Even if you've already walked the area you're planning on slashing (and I HOPE you have... there's no telling what nastiness is hiding in there) the perspective is different from the seat of your rig.

Best of luck & enjoy the site, Mate.

 

[LD1]

That's what a bush hog is made to do. I personally like leaving the loader on and running it low but curled back. The heal of the bucket will detect things you don't want to mow over with adequate time to stop.

 

[TripleR]

We've cut lots of brush that bad and worse with 3"+ saplings using a LP RCR2672 and Woods DS1260, as mentioned, hat's what appropriately sized cutters are designed to do. I also use my FEL as "feeler" and protector, also hand to help you back if your front wheels drop into a ditch, ravine etc. Be sure to keep your screens clean.

 

[Utopia Texas]

You are only going to have to go slow the first cutting to get rid of the thick brush and for safety. Once you get a feel of the property and have the larger plants down a once in a while mow will be much easier with that sized tractor. I've mowed property that thick with a Ford 8N though I had to cut trees down over 2" in diameter first with a chain saw and then mow over them on the ground. Just go slow and easy the first time.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I used a light duty Howse bush hog to cut material that size and larger using a Yanmar 4220 (42 HP engine) with no issue with the equipment. You just have to go slow especially when you approach a large sapling. Let the BH blades slowly eat into it to cut it then walk over it slowly. Be prepared to lift the BH up when going over larger trees and slowly lower it down onto the limbs so it eats them slowly. Use the FEL to bend everything over so nothing touches the tractors steering rods. Most CUT have them in front of the axles for some reason which is a dangerous spot for them when in heavy brush.

 

[breadtrk]

I started with this.

And this is the first part done.

Go slow with the bucket low. Did this with an LS XR3037 and a Fred Cain 5 footer.

 

[k0ua]

We've cut lots of brush that bad and worse with 3"+ saplings using a LP RCR2672 and Woods DS1260, as mentioned, hat's what appropriately sized cutters are designed to do. I also use my FEL as "feeler" and protector, also hand to help you back if your front wheels drop into a ditch, ravine etc. Be sure to keep your screens clean.

Dang! That is really covered. What were you in to? Some sort of weeds?

 

[LD1]

Dang! That is really covered. What were you in to? Some sort of weeds?

Get lots of that in my area too hogging. Especially in the fall. Not sure if the names are correct or if its a regional thing, but goldenrod and ragweed are what does it around here mostly.

Cleaning the radiator and grill is kinda standard procedure for me now. When I see the temp gauge start creeping above normal, I know its time to stop and clean. Sometimes thats once every 15 minutes, other times I can mow all day and no issues. I actually prefer to mow early mornings or after a light rain. Seems to help with the issue.

 

[TripleR]

Dang! That is really covered. What were you in to? Some sort of weeds?

Yeah, a combination of weeds, brush and warm season grasses. On that farm, we have Switch Grass, Indian Grass, Big Bluestem, Fescue and about every weed that grows in Missouri.

 

[BufordBoone]

I had a lot of thick brush to cut. I have a LP RCR2672 and a Kubota 5740. Following the last cutting, I had a fan-belt problem. Dealer said it may have been that large stick got caught up in the fan belt.

His advice: Sometimes it's better to cut in reverse.

This is a photo I took during the cutting.

 

[TripleR]

I had a lot of thick brush to cut. I have a LP RCR2672 and a Kubota 5740. Following the last cutting, I had a fan-belt problem. Dealer said it may have been that large stick got caught up in the fan belt.

His advice: Sometimes it's better to cut in reverse.

My brother fabricated this for my 5740, but even with that, there were times I backed in for some cuts.

 

[brs077]

Thank you all for the information. I feel much better given some of the photos and stories that have been provided.

What about the right cutter to get for my tractor, is a Woods BB72x or Rhino 172 ideal? Is one more reputable than the other? I can also get a new holland cutter, I'm not sure of the model, but I suspect it will be similar.

 

[runharley52]

Thank you all for the information. I feel much better given some of the photos and stories that have been provided. What about the right cutter to get for my tractor, is a Woods BB72x or Rhino 172 ideal? Is one more reputable than the other? I can also get a new holland cutter, I'm not sure of the model, but I suspect it will be similar.

I asked a lot of similar questions and got great feedback. Here's what I learned.

Brown manufacturing makes an awesome cutter but hard to find. I called and they could have got me one at a great price but I wouldn't have local support.

Bushhog, woods, and rhino make good cutters as well. Lots of folks here like rhino as they seem pretty heavy duty. If you have a good local dealer you work with, use that brand.

Buy one with a gearbox rated for roughly twice your tractor PTO HP if you're going heavy duty. And a cutting capacity appropriate for what you'll be dealing with.

I ended up with a bushhog 287 that I found on CL 10 min down the road. Not exactly perfect but so far, cuts everything into I throw at it with ease (including lots of trees and brush)

 

[TripleR]

Thank you all for the information. I feel much better given some of the photos and stories that have been provided.

What about the right cutter to get for my tractor, is a Woods BB72x or Rhino 172 ideal? Is one more reputable than the other? I can also get a new holland cutter, I'm not sure of the model, but I suspect it will be similar.

Either would be fine I am sure, both make good equipment as does Bush Hog and Land Pride, I have no experience with anything else beyond several economy brands. I like a slip clutch while other the shear pin. I had chain guards put on mine front and rear.

 

[Thomas]

If the front seems light could always put half load dirt in it.
If not sure what lays ahead could always lower the bucket 4" plus from the ground and go slow,sometimes in revs going slow may help.

 

[LD1]

His advice: Sometimes it's better to cut in reverse.

There are times I choose to back over large briar patches or saplings. But in general, cutters cut like crap in reverse. And hard on your neck.

 

[Will_C]

I have found that along your time is worth it when you reclaim land like that. Go slow, back into the big clumps, watch the radiator screen, and if you think you should get off the tractor and check something out- do it! Don, be afraid to use a chainsaw or brush cutter on the biggest saplings-it will save wear on the tractor and sometimes increases your visibility enough so you keep out of trouble.

Will

 

[dbaer78]

I have a Rhino 172 that i bought new two years ago and use pretty hard. It's been a darn good tool. My second choice would probably be a woods BB72x. They have a nice blade bolt system and have the heavy bumper built in the rear of the deck. Looked at both when I shopped and I don't think you can go wrong either way.