sway chains.. What have I got wrong?i

[Azmotorhead]

I've got a JD 650. Rear 3 point attachments are a Box scraper and blade.
I just purchased a set of sway chains from Hoye.
Problem is the sway chains seem too long even with turnbuckles turned all the way in.
Tractor used to have a set of original Deere sway chains but one side was missing a long clevis, and the other the turnbuckle was rustwelded together.
Called Hoye and they said theses were the ones applicable.
So what do i have wrong here??

 

[Jim Timber]

What if you put the clevis in the next link closer to the turnbuckle?

 

[Harvey9]

They look really loose. Try moving one link closer, but I think you'll have to remove both links to get it tight enough.

 

[gwdixon]

Maybe those two extra chain links on the tractor side are there for a more universal fit on a number of tractor models.

From the photo, it looks like if you removed those two links then the fit would be just right. It appears that a hack saw would be needed if you don't have a torch or plasma cutter.

If you still need an even shorter length then the single link on the implement side might need to be removed. That would require some welding to re-attach the turnbuckle body to the eye bolt.

Without the chain links the device will be a little more stiff but it should work just fine.

Before you do anything too radical make sure that those "D" rings on the turnbuckle body are not going to run into the lift arms when they are tightened. It looks to be close in the photo. You may have the wrong part.

I had a similar problem once with my BX2200. I simply went to the hardware store and bought two heavy-duty turnbuckles. They worked great. Not as simple to adjust but better than nothing.

One of these styles should work. I'd weld the eye closed on the non-solid eye models. Just a standard nut threaded onto the RH thread acts as a lock. Click the link:

https://www.google.com/search?q=turnbuckles&tbm=isch&imgil=3ptxmQUkHjO1FM%253A%253BzcLlONw8eNuNHM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.diytrade.com%25252Fchina%25252Fpd%25252F5354986%25252Fturnbuckles.html&source=iu&pf=m&fir=3ptxmQUkHjO1FM%253A%252CzcLlONw8eNuNHM%252C_&usg=__3NPHUJ4pWBYQWQCiTApgmkyEvqs%3D&biw=1304&bih=863&dpr=1.25&ved=0CGQQyjc&ei=OPfIVN3cMcGngwT8oIKQCg#imgdii=_&imgrc=3ptxmQUkHjO1FM%253A%3BzcLlONw8eNuNHM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fimg.diytrade.com%252Fcdimg%252F912768%252F8842333%252F0%252F1240878027%252Fturnbuckles.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.diytrade.com%252Fchina%252Fpd%252F5354986%252Fturnbuckles.html%3B1024%3B768

 

[SIMassey]

I've got a JD 650. Rear 3 point attachments are a Box scraper and blade.
I just purchased a set of sway chains from Hoye.
Problem is the sway chains seem too long even with turnbuckles turned all the way in.
Tractor used to have a set of original Deere sway chains but one side was missing a long clevis, and the other the turnbuckle was rustwelded together.
Called Hoye and they said theses were the ones applicable.
So what do i have wrong here??
View attachment 408931

I doubt they are designed to lock your three point from swinging. I believe they are just supposed to limit the amount of swing so the arms don't contact the tires. Check with the dealer you bought them from. You will probably need to buy a solid set of sway bars if you want to lock it solid. I wouldn't use the solid ones with the box blade unless you drive straight and lift it when you turn.

 

[McREBEL]

If they keep the lower links from hitting the tires and are capable of pulling them in a little beyond that then they are probably OK as is. If not, you could move the clevis up a link as has been mentioned. From the picture it looks like the turnbuckle end toward the tractor could be screwed in a little more also.

 

[varmint]

My initial thought was to relocate the rear attachment point to the other side of the lift arms, but maybe not. Remove a link or two as mentioned may be the best solution?

 

[Jimbrown]

Any chance they are supposed to be like this. It also looks to me that the lift arms may be reversed putting the attachment point too close to the tractor frame. Look at the picture. The lift arms are in front of the chain attachment point not behind it.

 

[PILOON]

Just remove a link or 2 and you are good to go.
The angle of the brackets on the rear casting indicate a direct line to each lift arm, removing one or both links will do the trick.
The sway kit is undoubtedly a universal replacement kit hence the extra links.

 

[murphy1244]

I doubt they are designed to lock your three point from swinging. I believe they are just supposed to limit the amount of swing so the arms don't contact the tires. Check with the dealer you bought them from. You will probably need to buy a solid set of sway bars if you want to lock it solid. I wouldn't use the solid ones with the box blade unless you drive straight and lift it when you turn.

That's the way my Massey works. If they are indeed sway chains.

 

[sixdogs]

I think I agree with Jimbown and jimtimber in that the turnbuckle should be hooked in the hole that the lift am is in and the lift arm in the turnbuckle hole. Go to the Deere website and look at a parts drawing for confirmation. I'm not positive on this but think it's the way my 790 Deere hooks up..

 

[Marveltone]

A quick google image search netted a couple pics. Looks like everything is hooked up right... just too long of a chain. :confused3:

 

[gwdixon]

Looking at the attachment points on the tractor it doesn't seem likely that the chains should be hooked up in an "X" pattern. The stress on the clevis would not be a direct pull like it should be.

Plus, the chains would interfere with the drawbar if hooked up that way.

 

[DavesTractor]

Just remove a link or 2 and you are good to go.
The angle of the brackets on the rear casting indicate a direct line to each lift arm, removing one or both links will do the trick.
The sway kit is undoubtedly a universal replacement kit hence the extra links.

Exactly. Universal kits are a bunch cheaper than the OEM kits, but they need to be "sized". BTW to the OP, you should turn the eyelets that are bolted onto your lower arms so that they are in the same orientation. Rotate one to match the other side. It looks like this kit will go short enough by removing a link or two.

 

[ksluy]

My chains are always loose when your not hooked up. They need room to widen out for hook up. Unless your saying they will not get tight when hooked up?

 

[Azmotorhead]

Thanks for all the input guys. I went out and tried putting the clevis end thru a different link. Unfortunately I would have to cut off the "extra" link to get the clevis thru. If I did that it's now permanently altered and if its still too long no recourse for returning to the vendor.
Even just sizing it up it appears that they would be still too long.
I did check in the JD Parts manual and the original owners manual. Draft arms are installed correctly and all linkages are in their proper holes.
With implement installed and chains hooked up they will not tighten enough to keep things in line.
BTW there are two holes on the arm the clevis end attaches to. One is so implement can move side to side the other is to keep implement from swaying.
Yes I'm in the correct hole for no sway.
No paperwork came with these swaychains stating that removal of links may be necessary
I agree original MFG parts are expensive, if you can find them. You know why? Because they fit and work like they are supposed too.
I've restored many vehicles and work with machines every day. Nothing chaps my ***** more than when a vendor sells a part that doesnt look fit function etc they way its designed. Using excuses like "we sell alot of them and haven't heard anyone complain" tells me one thing. You're not listening to your customers.
Sorry for the rant but I (like many) work too hard for my money to give it away for shoddy products.

 

[mrmikey]

Sure they're not supposed to be "X'd".

 

[sixdogs]

Since it's not any other option and since it's an aftermarket part it has to be that the company just left an extra link or two for the people that might need them. It is a one size fits all thing so maybe. The Deere parts book should show how many links are supposed to be there. As well, maybe someone on the TBN has a 650 and can measure the overall length of their parts for verification of correct length.

 

[SandburRanch]

The geometry of those chains will never stop the sway. Switch locations of the clevises and x the chains.

 

[sixdogs]

You don't want to stop the sway of an implement, only reduce it. Not sure where it is now but there is a recommended tolerance for how far an implement should be able to move back and forth. It's not a lot but my plows were set up to be two or three inches.

By that token, "xing" the chains seems like a bad idea. For starters, they could get caught in the PTO shaft. It's always been my idea of clear thinking to set a tractor up the way it comes from the factory. Just my two cents here.