5220 john deere won't start

[Djeakin]

This tractor won't do anything. When I parked it it was fine. I turned the key on and all dash lights lit up but when you try to start it. Nothing. It's like it is a safety switch or something. It's in park, the pto isn't engaged. I tried shorting across the solenoid and it turned over fine but didn't start. Any ideas? I also checked fuses.

 

[JD5210]

I know you said you checked the fuses, but please check the fuel solenoid fuse again, included a link to operators manual. Post back if is bad as I can tell you most likely why it is blown. Have you checked to see, if you have voltage at the fuel solenoid? If the fuses are good, but no power it is a relay. Are you getting fuel? Take a look at the youtube video not the same tractor, but same engine.

Post back with your findings and we can go from there.

http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMRE199128_19/?tM=FR

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxEDJiIdzcA

 

[Djeakin]

I know you said you checked the fuses, but please check the fuel solenoid fuse again, included a link to operators manual. Post back if is bad as I can tell you most likely why it is blown. Have you checked to see, if you have voltage at the fuel solenoid? If the fuses are good, but no power it is a relay. Are you getting fuel? Take a look at the youtube video not the same tractor, but same engine.

Post back with your findings and we can go from there.

http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMRE199128_19/?tM=FR

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxEDJiIdzcA

I checked fuses again and they look good, I didn't have any new ones so I swapped two of them and still nothing. I can here the fuel solenoid click when I turn key on. Would the fuel solenoid keep the engine from turning over? It won't even grunt it's like you tried to start it in gear. I tried in neutral, park, even worked the pto lever back and forth thinking maybe the sensor was messing up. Any ideas?

 

[JD5210]

I reread your first post, my error. You are right the solenoid has nothing to do with it not turning over. At least on my 5210, the only safety switches are PTO and neutral switch. I have attached a picture of the wiring and starting systems for 5X10. I believe it is close if not the same to 5X20. As you will see from the starting system, since you indicated you could hear the fuel solenoid, it is one of the 2 safety switches, start relay or the starter. I would start by seeing if you have power at the starter and work back from there.

Have you checked the voltage on the battery? I have seen lights work, but the starter not work when the battery is low.

 

[Djeakin]

I reread your first post, my error. You are right the solenoid has nothing to do with it not turning over. At least on my 5210, the only safety switches are PTO and neutral switch. I have attached a picture of the wiring and starting systems for 5X10. I believe it is close if not the same to 5X20. As you will see from the starting system, since you indicated you could hear the fuel solenoid, it is one of the 2 safety switches, start relay or the starter. I would start by seeing if you have power at the starter and work back from there.

Have you checked the voltage on the battery? I have seen lights work, but the starter not work when the battery is low.

I shorted across the solenoid and it turned over fine but didn't start and this tractor usually starts real easy.

 

[Djeakin]

I haven't worked on it today. Wind chill is about zero out there.

 

[JD5210]

When you short the starter solenoid, I would suggest you have a volt meter on the fuel solenoid as the roll of the by-pass relay is to kept it from getting hot wired. Not sure, if even having the key on would keep the by-pass relay from doing its job. My money is on the by-pass relay winning out.

When it warms up I would turn the PTO on and off, if for some reason that switch got stuck. Still no results you will need to see, if you have power at the PTO and neutral switch. Not sure you can get to them without having to take the fenders off.

 

[Djeakin]

When you short the starter solenoid, I would suggest you have a volt meter on the fuel solenoid as the roll of the by-pass relay is to kept it from getting hot wired. Not sure, if even having the key on would keep the by-pass relay from doing its job. My money is on the by-pass relay winning out.

When it warms up I would turn the PTO on and off, if for some reason that switch got stuck. Still no results you will need to see, if you have power at the PTO and neutral switch. Not sure you can get to them without having to take the fenders off.

Would it do this if the starter solenoid was out? The last couple months sometime when you start it the starter seems to kick in very hard. Is there some way to check it? But then again it should have started when I crossed the solenoid.

 

[Djeakin]

Where would the pto switch be located?

 

[JD5210]

Goto JDparts at the link provided (PTO lever and linkage). There are different selections and related pictures not knowing the transmission you have, I might be showing the wrong picture. Looks like the part number is RE42470.

I did attach a picture for the 5x10

John Deere - Parts Catalog

 

[jd110]

I shorted across the solenoid and it turned over fine but didn't start and this tractor usually starts real easy.

The tractor will not start when bypassing at the starter. There is a special Safety circuit that turns off power to the fuel solenoid when attempting to bypass start. It will crank but won't start. I would recommend checking that pto neutral switch. I have seen them get dirt and debris build up under the seat around that switch and prevent the switch from operating properly. (i assume you have an open station tractor?) Remove the seat assembly and the filler plate around the pto lever. The switch will probably be buried under a bunch of crud under the panel.

 

[Djeakin]

The tractor will not start when bypassing at the starter. There is a special Safety circuit that turns off power to the fuel solenoid when attempting to bypass start. It will crank but won't start. I would recommend checking that pto neutral switch. I have seen them get dirt and debris build up under the seat around that switch and prevent the switch from operating properly. (i assume you have an open station tractor?) Remove the seat assembly and the filler plate around the pto lever. The switch will probably be buried under a bunch of crud under the panel.

Thanks, I'll try that soon as it warms up a little.

 

[Djeakin]

Finally warmed up. I took the plate off by pto and found my problem. Mice have had there way with my wiring. They chewed the entire cluster into. I thought I might try splicing them back together but all seven wires are the same color blue. What the ****? Any ideas?

 

[Djeakin]

Goto JDparts at the link provided (PTO lever and linkage). There are different selections and related pictures not knowing the transmission you have, I might be showing the wrong picture. Looks like the part number is RE42470.

I did attach a picture for the 5x10

John Deere - Parts Catalog

I found where mice have chewed thru pto safety switch wiring. All seven wires are completely into. I want to splice them together but they are all the same color, blue. Got any idea?

 

[beenthere]

Your Deere dealer should be able to come up with a wiring diagram for your tractor so that you can reconnect the wires. May take some tracing with the ohm meter or measuring some voltages when the switches are on/off, and hope the time fits in to your schedule. Is it the short wiring connector, or are the wires running on into a wiring harness?

Also, getting the service tech manual for your tractor might be a timely purchase.

 

[Djeakin]

Your Deere dealer should be able to come up with a wiring diagram for your tractor so that you can reconnect the wires. May take some tracing with the ohm meter or measuring some voltages when the switches are on/off, and hope the time fits in to your schedule. Is it the short wiring connector, or are the wires running on into a wiring harness?

Also, getting the service tech manual for your tractor might be a timely purchase.

The wires run under the seat and I haven't taken it off yet. I'm sure they just go to a plug because they come right out of the safety switch.

 

[beenthere]

The safety switch shows in jdparts.com as a pretty short (looks like maybe 6" long) set of wires to the connector.
Might the mice only have destroyed those wires and not beyond the connector. Then just a matter of buying the safety switch.. looks to be about $30 some bucks.

 

[Djeakin]

The safety switch shows in jdparts.com as a pretty short (looks like maybe 6" long) set of wires to the connector.
Might the mice only have destroyed those wires and not beyond the connector. Then just a matter of buying the safety switch.. looks to be about $30 some bucks.

I still haven't had time to remove seat so I'm not sure if there is anymore damage. Hopefully there isn't, if not I'll get another switch, $30. Isn't to bad, probably better than trying to splice it. Thanks for all the help.

 

[beenthere]

Here is a shot of the jdparts.com showing the switch that I am thinking is what you have "moused" up. Item no. 24.
I would assume that the microswitch is captured in that bracket shown (item 21) and held by the bolts through the bracket and the switch. Have to unbolt the bracket first to get at the switch bolts. \\
Only shows 4 wires tho.
Hope that works for you.

 

[Djeakin]

Here is a shot of the jdparts.com showing the switch that I am thinking is what you have "moused" up. Item no. 24.
I would assume that the microswitch is captured in that bracket shown (item 21) and held by the bolts through the bracket and the switch. Have to unbolt the bracket first to get at the switch bolts. \\
Only shows 4 wires tho.
Hope that works for you.

I'm pretty sure that's the setup I have. Haven't had a chance to work on it anymore but that diagram will really help. Thanks