Got the tractor....now I need a trailer

[lubepimp]

First I need to admit my ignorance, didn't think ahead and consider the weight of implements in my buying decision of my tractor. Inhindsight it wouldn't have changed my decision but would have saved my families ears fro some of the new words I've made up over the past few days.

I hadbeen thinking that I could borrow a friend's car hauler for when I needed to transport with bh, and my enclosed Triton lowboy in the winter to blow snow at the camp, just came to the realization that neither are rated for the weight I need.

So now that more $ is going to fly out the door I need help spending it and would appreciate some input on trailer makes/models/options etc.

I need to stick with a 5 ton as higher rating requires a D license in Ontario. Minimum 18' so there's extra room, thinking maybe 20 so there's that much more. It will be hauled in the winter so snow and road salt are considerations. Down the road I may need the room for loads of soil/rock etc. Looking for a good solid trailerbut don't want to break the bank as it will probably only get used 4-5 times a year.

Hauling a Kioti DK40SE HST = 3847#; FEL =1284#; BH=1158#; snowblower=748#; snowblade=375#

Towing with a 2012 Ram 2500 6.7l CTD

 

[George2615]

A 10k trailer will be just the ticket for your tractor package. I would look for a 20-22'er.

 

[CJONE]

The pickup is more than adequate for anything you will put behind it. I would go with a 14k and have it derated to 10k just for the tire factor alone. I have a 22' and it has been about perfect for what I do. My 10k will haul my tractor but the tires get real warm and it is not good for them at sustained high speed. CJ

 

[lubepimp]

The pickup is more than adequate for anything you will put behind it. I would go with a 14k and have it derated to 10k just for the tire factor alone. I have a 22' and it has been about perfect for what I do. My 10k will haul my tractor but the tires get real warm and it is not good for them at sustained high speed. CJ

Ha ha, yes I bought the Ram for the simple reason you mention above.

How does a trailer get de-rated? Simply have the manufacturer change the badge?

 

[hawkeye08]

I like my 20'... would not be happy with the smaller ones. I have plenty of parking space and park mine under the shop leanto with the tires covered (to reduce sun damage)..

 

[Fallon]

The longer the better. More room for stuff & more importantly more room to properly balance your trailer for the proper 10-15% tongue weight.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I agree, get a trailer to match your trucks capabilities, not the load.

14K In a 22 to 24' range.

Chris

 

[lubepimp]

Think I will be looking 20-24', but I need to stay with 10k...heavier capacity requires a different license up here and as it's for personal use I don't see the need for any extra bills.

Are all makes/manufacturers essentially the same quality? Any options I can't do without?

 

[Fallon]

I love my tilting deck, makes loading & unloading so easy. Unfortunately it's only a 16', the saving grace there is it has a really long tongue, so I can hang the loader off the deck onto the tongue & not be near the bumper, hitch, battery or other wiring. Tilting decks seem to be cost at least 25% more than a normal trailer with ramps. I got mine dirt cheap at an auction though.



Metal is more durable & much longer lasting. However it's also heavier, harder to repair (replace) & in most cases much slicker when wet. Wood decking is more common. You need to paint or protect it & replace it every so often, which is some work but not to bad.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I like my 20 foot carhauler trailer with dual 6K axles with brakes on all axles, super heavy duty front jack, rear slide in ramps and 10 Ply 16" rims. That gives a 9500# more or less hauling capacity minus the trailer weight. 20 feet of trailer gives plenty of room to balance the load without hanging something over the back or front.
Most places (don't know about Canada though) will issue your trailer license load weight per what you want even if the trailer is higher rated but don't get caught exceeding your license rating.

 

[schmism]

I have a 10K 20' flat and would not have a trailer a foot shorter for nothin.

 

[breadtrk]

I made a simple spreadsheet in excel, then emailed it to my android phone. I can show the guy that has pulled me over exactly how much I am hauling, depending which implements I have on that day.

 

[CJONE]

Ha ha, yes I bought the Ram for the simple reason you mention above.

How does a trailer get de-rated? Simply have the manufacturer change the badge?

Yes, that is all they have to do is change the rating on the plate when the trailer is built. Or submit the SN of the trailer to the MFG and request a new lower sticker/plate. I think this is common in Ohio also. CJ

 

[bironacad]

Yes, that is all they have to do is change the rating on the plate when the trailer is built. Or submit the SN of the trailer to the MFG and request a new lower sticker/plate. I think this is common in Ohio also. CJ

Excuses me for being late to this thread, lol, just checked the MTO (ministry transport Ontario) license designations for trailering non recreational vehicles. There is a 10,000lb limit even for D license for max towed vehicle. The D license allows for a larger tow vehicle, lol, no difference to the vehicle being towed. The thing is if you can prove the trailer and load is under the 10,000lb limit you are ok even if the trailer is rated for 14,000lbs. The problem though is the trailer itself will be heavier thereby reducing the payload. If the trailer is 1,000lbs heavier the total payload would drop by that weight.

I have a D licence and there is no advantage over G for non recreational towing, man wish I hadn't let my A go, lol.:thumbdown:

 

[CJONE]

Excuses me for being late to this thread, lol, just checked the MTO (ministry transport Ontario) license designations for trailering non recreational vehicles. There is a 10,000lb limit even for D license for max towed vehicle. The D license allows for a larger tow vehicle, lol, no difference to the vehicle being towed. The thing is if you can prove the trailer and load is under the 10,000lb limit you are ok even if the trailer is rated for 14,000lbs. The problem though is the trailer itself will be heavier thereby reducing the payload. If the trailer is 1,000lbs heavier the total payload would drop by that weight.

I have a D licence and there is no advantage over G for non recreational towing, man wish I hadn't let my A go, lol.:thumbdown:

Yep, that's why I could never figure why someone would derate a heavy trailer, doesn't make any sense. Oh wait we are talking about laws and government regs. Nevermind. I will not let my CDL A go unless I have to just for these reasons. CJ

 

[powerscol]

Think I will be looking 20-24', but I need to stay with 10k...heavier capacity requires a different license up here and as it's for personal use I don't see the need for any extra bills.

Are all makes/manufacturers essentially the same quality? Any options I can't do without?

Several things to consider. First width of your tractor and implements. I found that car haulers, or low tilt decks would not work for me based on tractor and baler tire width. I needed a 102" deck over. Next came hitch weight. I have and F350 dually and even with the heaviest equalizing hitch I could find, my loaded trailer pin weight exceeded the bumper pull hitch so I went with a goose neck.

For a safety factor I went with a 14K unit (better tires and bigger breaks) from PJ. Its a GN 20' flat deck with 3' dove tail to ease the loading and break over point (check that). Original rating was 14K, but had it de-rated to stay under the 26K GVW for combined units (truck and trailer). Ill never get that heavy, but needed to, for getting tags. Trailer is an F8 PJ unit. Also check ramp widths for loading tractor and wheel implement. I had to go with the wider ramps as my baler tires are set much wider than the tractor tires

Hope this helps

 

[void777]

Wow only thing missing on your trailer is the wife the dog and the kids. J/K