sheet rock question

/ sheet rock question #21  
There is a recently developed "lightweight" Sheetrock on the market now. I don't know much about it but saw it advertised in lumberyards. As for glueing the board to studs, I have seen it done but not in my own houses.

My current house is 5 years old now and no pops to screws or nails have occurred. You should definitely get the approval of code enforcement about the glue method.

ALL Sheetrock sold here is the new lightweight now.
 
/ sheet rock question
  • Thread Starter
#22  
That was definitely my concern. I will have the rockers old school (screw) the boards, Thanks Much !!

If you or anyone in the future is going to replace that rock, plan on twice the demo and cost as the stud will need to be either scabbed out or replaced.

Good luck. IMO this practice only makes the initial install quicker for the contractor, and darn near impossible to replace the rock if needed due to mold, water damage, electrical repairs etc.

I would personally forbid the contractor from doing it!
 
/ sheet rock question #23  
Cripes, if you make decisions based on ease of future demo --rather than what gives the best possible result -- you may as well rewind the clock and build to 1950 standards. Someone I know once used the same argument against spray foam insulation, because he was worried what would happen if there was ever water damage around windows. I'd say let the pros do it in the way that gives the best possible result "now" and keep the hypothetical demo what-ifs out of it.
 
/ sheet rock question #24  
Cripes, if you make decisions based on ease of future demo --rather than what gives the best possible result -- you may as well rewind the clock and build to 1950 standards. Someone I know once used the same argument against spray foam insulation, because he was worried what would happen if there was ever water damage around windows. I'd say let the pros do it in the way that gives the best possible result "now" and keep the hypothetical demo what-ifs out of it.

I have seen probably a million boards hung, and never seen anyone glue them. In mobile homes, they air staple and glue. If your getting a lot of nail/screw pops, something is wrong. Either your getting a lot of movement in the framing, screws/nails that weren't driven down tight, or nails/screws that just plain missed the stud/blocking.

Glue is for subfloor to minimize squeaking.

If your working on a fire wall, or the drywall is engineered as part of a shear wall, follow the screw pattern (yes, 5/8" sheet rock can be figured into a sheer wall, just most engineers don't bother to consider it's added strength into the design, cause it's not that high), even if you use the glue.
 
/ sheet rock question #25  
Wouldn't you use $5 of glue for every sheet???
 
/ sheet rock question #26  
My house is a modular and some of the sheet rock is glued on. As someone else said, what a pita to get all of it off the studs. I would screw it.
 
/ sheet rock question #27  
Another reason you get nail pops is that you have a cheap carpenter. Many will use "wet" lumber because it's cheaper than KD. The wood shrinks and allows the drywall to move.
 
/ sheet rock question #28  
Another reason you get nail pops is that you have a cheap carpenter. Many will use "wet" lumber because it's cheaper than KD. The wood shrinks and allows the drywall to move.

Also SYP warps more than SPF, but its stronger and holds nails better. General it quits moving when it's nailed to OSB or drywall, but it could cause some nail pops if it bows. Bottom line, on a smooth finish nail pops are fast and easy to repair; orange peal or knock down is a bit harder, but still not bad to hide something as small as a nail or screw head.
 
/ sheet rock question #29  
The only time I used glue for drywall was to attach it to interior stucco wall in my old house. There was almost nothing to attach screws to. It been holding up well for over19 years now
 
/ sheet rock question #30  
The only time I used glue for drywall was to attach it to interior stucco wall in my old house. There was almost nothing to attach screws to. It been holding up well for over19 years now

That actually raises a good point. If you for have stucco on wire lathe, on the outside already, avoid nails or for that matter beating to much on the interior studs, you could get some hair lune cracks in the stucco. That could be a good time to consider glue; but I'd still just go with screws. I like 1-1/4" coarse thread #6 drywall screws or self tapers with fine thread if using metal studs.
 
/ sheet rock question #31  
It is rather common in high end homes and in communities where the codes are a bit harder. Screwed and Glued that is. Still nail off perimeter of board but screw double sets on each stud with glue on each stud on all walls. Hung for a good number of years & both older brothers ran their own companies (I worked with them on & off when they needed extra hand.)

Cost of glue is not too bad 20~25/case & is only about 1~2 cases per average 3k foot home, maybe 2.5 for a bigger home or one with 9+ walls. PL glue which stays pliable for a LONG time & normally hand ceilings and then glue only walls finish off one or two rooms then screw them all off.

There are lots of local codes that all want something different, one inspector wanted the screws 2.5~3 inches apart with 16~18" between pairs. Guy would take 2 hours in a house measuring these distances and if he found more than 10 he would fail the home & require individual marks on ALL screws... :/ He didn't last too long for the town (very high end homes Million plus finished cost.)

m
 
/ sheet rock question #32  
Cripes, if you make decisions based on ease of future demo --rather than what gives the best possible result -- you may as well rewind the clock and build to 1950 standards. Someone I know once used the same argument against spray foam insulation, because he was worried what would happen if there was ever water damage around windows. I'd say let the pros do it in the way that gives the best possible result "now" and keep the hypothetical demo what-ifs out of it.

Hmmmm. I have removed drywall to:

Repair rodent damage to wiring, Replace faulty tub plumbing, repair water damaged and moldy rock from broken pipes. Replaced doors, as well as demo'd entire rooms to remodel a home.

I'd say I prefer to not deal with glue issues. But that is just my .02. I have also dealt with many "Pros" who's skills were not as advertised.

My wife and I finished the shell of a log home we had built in 2004. The only issues to date in that home were done by the "pro's" We wired, plumbed, tiled, built the staircase, Great room fireplace, walk-out basement retaining walls, paver patios, etc. The log home contractor couldn't even build a square soffit. :rolleyes: And he came with many recommendations. The building inspector asked me to replace the porch stairs because they were not code. The well line had to be replaced because he didn't think it needed to be buried in sand like someone requested....:rolleyes:

We just updated one of the bathrooms in our present home, and the builder glued the cabinets to the drywall, and the drywall to the studs. Ask my wife how much wasted time the glue caused....
 
/ sheet rock question #33  
We are going to have some sheet rock installed. Evidently the new norm is to glue the rock on with a minimum of screws or nails. Anyone have an opinion about this method.

:2cents:
Use screws!! No nails... no glue!
 
/ sheet rock question #35  
I'm amazed some people still use nails, that is such an old way of doing thing but it must be much faster, no drills or cords.

Nails are like 25% as much as screws, and in some situations they can be more convenient; such as fire rocking a party wall in the trusses. But I wouldn't recommend them on a visible wall.
 
 
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