Pasquali Tractor Clutch Mod

[mpilihp]

Ive had issues on and off with the clutch on my 988 Pasquali, two problems really. The first is using it sometimes my foot will slip off of it in the most inconvenient times and the second is with breaking clutch cables.

The first issue is because the pedal pushes straight down and if your boot is wet or muddy the force needed to keep it down can cause your foot to slip off of it forwards causing you to learch and possibly into something. So I made a inclined serrated add-on that gives my foot something to push forward against and it is very grippy. Here are some pictures of this fix:





The second issue is the clutch cable keeps breaking once or twice a year. I've been making it from cable stock from Tractor supply but really don't want to keep doing that. Ive found that the cable sheave where it goes into the adjuster is at an angle and the metal end is scraping against the cable. So using a couple pieces of PEX tubing I made a brace to hold it straight up and down.







Hope this can help someone else!

~ Phil

 

[Shadow99]

That's a great idea Phil ! I used some grip-tape on my 993 clutch pedal, but it doesn't last long. Planning on converting over to hydraulic at some point in the future.

Rick

 

[JoeZZ]

Phil,
Have you found anything to use as a boot on the clutch shifter fork. I was told a cow bottle nipple would work...have not tried it as they seem a bit small...

Joe

 

[garthbradbury]

Help..!! I own a Pasquali Orion 850 and use it for contract mowing / mulching on steep banks. I have a serious overheating problem, she runs ok for a couple of hours then starts to get hot. Have tried stopping every 20 - 30 mins and cleaning the front grill, sweeping the grass etc away, checking the rad and cleaning if necessary. We have just had engine re-built as she got so hot she cooked herself...inexperienced operator was using it! I had a new core fitted to rad and bigger fins, but alas, same problem!
Any ideas or has anyone had same issues?

Garth

 

[mpilihp]

That's a great idea Phil ! I used some grip-tape on my 993 clutch pedal, but it doesn't last long. Planning on converting over to hydraulic at some point in the future.

Rick

Hi that's a great idea, do you have any ideas on how to implement it?

 

[Kossack]

Although I haven't personally seen a hydraulic clutch modification I know that they are done by Jack Speake at American Pasquali in NH. Last price I heard was about $600 for the job. I'm thinking it would sure beat replacing cable after cable; sometimes three of four a year and usually at least once in deep snow hunting around for the cable ends that have dropped off.

 

[Shadow99]

Uhh Yeah, Good luck getting a response from Jack. Only way I would get a response from Jack was to hound-him constantly on the phone, and even then there was no guarantee you would get what was promised. He promised to send me 2 fuel filters, an oil filter & some missing lug-nuts for the 993 I got used from him, that was 1 yr ago!
I was going to use a universal hydraulic clutch kit, like for an old VW bug. And just use a larger piston master to overcome the 150 lbs of force required to push my clutch pedal down (do to after-market pressure plate, Jack installed). I removed the pedal return-spring, under the deckplate, that eased the pressure somewhat.

Rick

 

[JoeZZ]

I broke the clutch cable on my 997 a couple of weeks ago and have been going over the tractor to take care of odds and end stuff that I’ve been meaning to do.

I have two 997’s with FEL that I use very hard. One I’ve had for 5 years and another for 2 years. This is the first broken clutch cable between the two of them.

The clutch always seemed very difficult/binding somewhere. Just before I bought it someone had done a clutch job on it…as it was advertized “new clutch”. A number of problems contributed to the issues that ultimately caused a stiff pedal and broken cable.

The 3 finger pressure plate had at some time been rebuilt and installed incorrectly.

I took it to the good folks at Buffalo Clutch in Cheektowaga NY that did an incredible job rebuilding the pressure plate properly using Model A pivots/pins and Air Brake springs.

When I went to install the new set up I found that it did not seat properly on the flywheel as it sat up partially on a lip at the outer edge of the flywheel. Some careful cleanup on the periphery of the pressure plate did the trick.

I take a lot of before, during and after pictures on projects like this to document things.

I looked at my “before” pictures and I could see where the pressure plate was not installed correctly when I got the tractor. The improper pivot parts also caused much of the stiffness in the pedal. Now it functions very well.

I can’t help but think that regular breakage of cable is indicative of a problem elsewhere….does it always break in the same place?

As far as filters go…I am at a point that I’ve modified and or identified every one of them to the point that they are readily available and comparatively inexpensive.

The in tank fuel filter is a Baldwin PT459 with an extra washer behind it because it is a touch shorter.
The same is used for the hydraulic system in tank filter but with a machined bracket made from an old original filter.

The engine oil filter has an adapter so that a Wal-Mart ST3614 mounts up to it.
The hydraulic return line filter and inline fuel filter/water separator were added just to have a belt and suspenders on.

Parts that I have needed I get from Tom Brach at Italian Tractors in Canada…this is a very reliable source of Pasquali Tractor parts.

I believe that Tom Brach as a way of doing business has increased the value of Pasquali Tractors across North America…if for no other reason than to have a source of parts that is utterly reliable.

Joe

 

[Kossack]

Joe,

My clutch cable breaks the same way as Phil reports at the beginning of this thread. I was able to improve the situation just as Phil did by adding stiff tubing to straighten the cable path through the adjusting bolt and onto the clutch pedal. But the cable was also being abraded by the small opening through the adjusting bolt. Here I used an adjusting bolt modified by Jack Speake to have a larger diameter opening through its center that greatly reduces cable abrasion.

However, I also encountered a situation similar to Rick's after Jack installed a new clutch assembly with a five fingered pressure plate that required a great deal more clutch pedal force to actuate. I was then breaking clutch cables so often that it has limited my use of the tractor to work situations where I can make do with minimal shifting without the clutch until I can find another solution.

Like Rick, I'm thinking of a hydraulic clutch conversion. Any ideas?

 

[JoeZZ]

I am curious as to what your cable end at the cultch pedal looks like.

It seems as though it is not pivoting with movement from the pedal.

Picture 1 shows the parts from my 997 clutch cable….are they familiar or do you have a different set up?

Picture 2 is the rebuilt 3 finger clutch with what I believe are air brake springs that are what determine clutch pressure. I just installed this…effort is increased but not objectionable.

A hydraulic clutch is doable, I’m sure…but the expense is certainly a factor.

Joe

 

[JoeZZ]

Garth,
I am not very familiar with water cooled Pasquali Tractors.
I would suspect a faulty water pump and/or a debris build up especially since you are mowing with it.
Let us know what you find.
Pictured is a Ruggerini RD92/2 on my Pasquali 997 that otherwise looked fairly clean....the oil is from a bad seal on an injector pump...

 

[Kossack]

Joe,

The end of my cable sheave has exactly the same rounded fitting that goes into the cup in the head of the adjusting bolt. What has happened in the past is that the rounded fitting has separated from the end of the sheave due to pressure from the angle at which the sheave enters the cupped head of the adjusting bolt. As I mentioned previously, this condition improved with the addition of stiff tubing to straighten the cable path.

My cable goes through the same cylinder shaped fixture that snugs up under the clutch pedal. The original cable may have had a similar "potato masher" shaped stop but many replacements later I simply double the cable over and apply a couple of small cable clamps. The stops I used to buy from Bob Coons were those nice cylinders with two clamping bolts. I always managed to over tighten and break them off. Maybe I'll check to see if Tom Brach has them in stock.

I didn't mention earlier that right now with the clutch cable off I can't manually move the clutch arm at all. I'm thinking that there is some problem binding up the throw out bearing. The pedal force needed after I first had the five finger clutch installed may have been an earlier indication of a problem other than simply the beefier clutch.

I'm certainly very interested to hear what you may have to say about this.

Paul

 

[JoeZZ]

Paul,

A couple of different things are going on here …let me touch on them separately.
The first picture shows all of the clutch cable assembly components that I used to redo my 997.

This is a typical setup often called a Bowden cable.

Starting at the lower left is a terminal block. This one is aluminum and I have some in steel. This is available at Lowes or Home Depot in the electrical department. It is the last part to be assembled on the cable at the clutch fork under the battery.

The next part up was made from a ¼” Allen Screw and fits into the top hole of the clutch fork. It was drilled out on a lathe so that the cable would slide through it. It is not at all necessary and I only used it because I had it.

The spring is the stock Pasquali item that goes between the clutch fork and a protrusion on the transmission.

Going to the right in the picture is the outer sheath. It is 40.75 inches long and the internal diameter is adequate to pass a 1/8”
cable though it.

At the end of the outer sheath is an adjusting bolt. This was made on a lathe. It is a standard 8-1.25 x 25 metric bolt. Drilled through to pass the 1/8” cable and the hex head end bored out to accept the end of the outer sheath. This keeps everything concentric. This is installed into the threaded tube on the foot rest.

The cable is 1/8” 7x19 aircraft cable 54” long. Available at most hardware stores etc. Be careful of the 7x19 designation as there are a variety of different ways cable is constructed. This is good for strength and flexibility.

Here is where we get to the parts that are breaking. If the terminal on the end slips off the cable that is one issue. If it breaks off with a stubble of cable stuck inside that is a whole different matter.

Quit simply if the terminal slips off it was not properly attached… regardless of clutch pedal effort. In other words a cable will break long before the terminal will slip.

If there is no stepped terminal on the very end of the cable at the clutch pedal this is an issue. If the cable end is secured with any other kind of screw on terminal this is a source of problems, as it will not allow the cable to pivot properly.

The last component is the solid steel lug that is cross drilled and step drilled. If you look at it the holes are a different size on each side of it.

Looking at the 2nd picture you can see where the cable end will not pass though this lug. As it is assembled in the clutch pedal
It allows the cable and the lug to rotate as the pedal moves. This relieves the stress on the cable and allows it to stay aligned better.

The cable that broke for me was passed all the way through both holes in the clutch pedal and then terminated with a cable clamp beneath that. A No-No in my book…

That’s all I have to say about that…

Joe

 

[mpilihp]

Hi Joe so your clutch cable setup looks different than what is on my 988. At the clutch pedal end my adjustment setup is separate from the cable. THe cable has a seperate metal end and it sets in a cup on the end of the adjustment screw that the cable goes through. THe double screw block thing Im assuming is not stock item. It also appears you have yours installed in the opposite direction than I have. My cable has a dead end up on the level by the tranny end and I have a wierd double threaded bolt at the clutch pedal end that the cable threads through and Is used to tighten the cable. Tom at italiantractors.com stated the double ended tension-er is stock.

As for issues with clutches, I replaced mine originally with a 3 fingered one but had issues adjusting it and Tom replaced it with a multi spline type spring clutch similiar to a car's which works well.

Also I agree beware of Mr Specke, I've waited months for parts and had to badger him to receive them. The last item was a clutch which I never got, I went to his business in person and was promised a check in the mail next week.... I managed to trade him a set of balloon tires for the dollars he owed me.

 

[JoeZZ]

The threaded adjuster bolt is only sitting at the end of the outer sheath ...it has a cup on the end for the sheath to fit into...its a bit clearer in the picture on page one. 1 picture =1000 words.

It does the same thing as your adjuster and is in the same place as you have pictured on page one.

I ended up getting a clutch fork boot and a few other items from Tom at Italian Tractors...the only way to buy new Pasquali parts.

Joe

 

[mpilihp]

HI Joe I see it, I would think you could have the same potential issue of the end of the sheath rubbing on the cable and causing it to fail since the cable has to make a sharp turn to go into the tunnel to be directed to the front of the tractor. My problems stopped after putting the pex around the cable to hold it straight up. I agree Tom at ItalianTractors is great to get parts and advice from.

~ Phil

 

[mpilihp]

I guess I spoke to soon, my clutch cable broke again! Ive had it with this cable setup. I havent taken it apart yet so not sure where it broke but will follow up. Reguardless I want to pursue a hydraulic clutch setup.

 

[CalG]

Bowden cables come in all sizes. Perhaps a larger size will last a life time..

(there are even suppliers that will custom produce based on dimensions. Search on term Bowden Cable)

 

[mpilihp]

Bowden cables come in all sizes. Perhaps a larger size will last a life time..

(there are even suppliers that will custom produce based on dimensions. Search on term Bowden Cable)

I like the idea but my concern is where the cable goes into the floorboard and the tension adjuster I am thinking a larger diameter cable say 3/16 or 1/4" wont fit. Im thinking manufacturing a larger base and adjuster is beyond my ability. Its a great idea and Im going to ask my mechanic if he can manufacture that for me.

THanks ~ Phil

 

[mpilihp]

So I looked at where the cable is failing and it doesnt appear to be up where the cable sheave contacts the cupped adjuster bolt which is good to know that my PVC brace is working to keep the cable straight. THe cable failed below where it leaves the floor board and into the round block used to secure it below the clutch pedal.

Sorry for the terrible picture but this is what it looks like


Comparing it with Joe ZZs setup it appears his cable has the end end at the clutch pedal end and on mine it dead ends at the lever to the forks in the bell housing. So its a totally different solution, Im quite sure Tom at Italian tractor said my setup was the stock way with the cable terminator with the double nuts was standard.

So any thoughts on why my cable is fraying here?

Thanks

~ Phil