Second radiator blowout

[macquigg]

I just bought a used T273 with 450 hours on it, and now I'm discovering the hidden problems. I noticed right away the overheating problem, and was careful to shut down as soon as I saw coolant spitting out the pressure relief tube. The temp guage never went above mid-scale. Nevertheless, it started leaking at the seal between the radiator core and the lower reservoir. After ten hours it was gushing, and I had to stop.

Turns out, this is the second radiator in that tractor. The original part number 13151042000 was replaced with the same, but presumably "improved" part ending in 3000. I have not been able to find a replacement at a reasonable price. A small car radiator would be about $140. The TYM dealer says this one is a special order, and will cost me about $600 after shipping and taxes. That's outrageous for a cheapie with plastic reservoirs. I'm also worried that a third radiator, even with the improved design, will just do the same after another 10 hours.

I took it to a radiator specialist, who told me the plastic was severely deformed from overpressure, and could not be repaired.

At this point, I'm wondering if I should just sell the tractor as is, take a big loss, and find something more robust, or at least something with more readily available parts.

Any suggestions from other owners?

 

[aczlan]

Sounds like a bad head gasket dumping pressure from the cylinders into the cooling system.

Aaron Z

 

[2458n]

second on the head gasket. did you not loosen the radiator cap when you saw fluid coming out the overflow? If it was boiling bad enough to deform the plastic tank it should have been a clue to stop and pull over and let it idle. If this did not cool it down something was wrong and it should have been shut off. With the top tightly sealed you just created a pressure pot by raising the boiling point. See if you can clamp a radiator pressure tester in the top hose while plugging the bottom hose. A drop in pressure will show the leak at the head. You just need to fix the right problem first.

 

[pmsmechanic]

A good rad shop should be able to build you a new radiator. Tanks and mounts for less than a new one.

 

[macquigg]

Thanks all for the suggestions. I've made an appointment to get this checked out (two week backlog :>( I'll post again when I know something more.

As for the parts-price problem, the TYM dealer assures me this is standard for the industry. I've asked the radiator shop to see if we can mount a car radiator in that slot.

 

[rsallen]

I hate to be pragmatic but is it only an assumption that the thermostat has been checked?

 

[macquigg]

Haven't checked the thermostat, but it seems unlikely because the temperature guage never went above mid-scale.

 

[ALKY]

I would never spend that much $$$ on something u can adapt. it is bad enough buying things u can't adapt.mine eats injectors and glowplugs!!

I just bought a used T273 with 450 hours on it, and now I'm discovering the hidden problems. I noticed right away the overheating problem, and was careful to shut down as soon as I saw coolant spitting out the pressure relief tube. The temp guage never went above mid-scale. Nevertheless, it started leaking at the seal between the radiator core and the lower reservoir. After ten hours it was gushing, and I had to stop.

Turns out, this is the second radiator in that tractor. The original part number 13151042000 was replaced with the same, but presumably "improved" part ending in 3000. I have not been able to find a replacement at a reasonable price. A small car radiator would be about $140. The TYM dealer says this one is a special order, and will cost me about $600 after shipping and taxes. That's outrageous for a cheapie with plastic reservoirs. I'm also worried that a third radiator, even with the improved design, will just do the same after another 10 hours.

I took it to a radiator specialist, who told me the plastic was severely deformed from overpressure, and could not be repaired.

At this point, I'm wondering if I should just sell the tractor as is, take a big loss, and find something more robust, or at least something with more readily available parts.

Any suggestions from other owners?

 

[TYM Tractors]

Hello!
Could you personal message me the tractor S/N? I believe it could still be under warranty coverage by the previous owner.
If that's the case, then your issue should be under our warranty protection.

 

[macquigg]

Progress Report:
I have the old radiator back from the shop. It appears to have a weird deformation in the lower plastic tank. The edges that mate with the O-ring are bent inwards (not outwards, as we might expect from overpressure. There is no bulging of the lower part of the tank. It looks perfectly straight, like new.

The top tank is still sealed, but it looks like the edge is slipping out in an inwards direction (the only direction it can move away from the metal teeth clamping it in place).

Here is my theory: The plastic parts were deformed in manufacture, but bent into place in final assembly. As the radiator flexed and vibrated over the months since it was installed, the seal got looser, and eventually failed.

Here is what I will try next: We're going to heat the plastic, and bend it out, a little more that straight, so that there will be an outward pressure on the metal fingers.

We're also going to look for gas in the coolant, as soon as I can get the radiator back on the tractor. The head gasket was apparently replaced once before, probably at the same time the radiator was replaced, but I am having difficulty getting information from the dealer.

 

[macquigg]

Final Report:
I believe my theory is correct. It is a manufacturing defect in the radiator, not a leaking head gasket.

We re-assembled the radiator, using windshield adhesive instead of an O-ring, and re-bending the fingers on the lower tank. The tractor ran perfectly at full load for several hours, with no sign of overheating or a leaking head gasket. We did not see or smell any gas in the coolant. The temp gauge stayed at mid-scale.

Now it looks like we may have a similar problem with the upper tank. The lip on the tank is working its way out from under the fingers. You can see from this photo that the edge of the lip is right at the edge of the fingers. We have added a strap to hold the tank in place.



Many thanks for everyone's help.

 

[ZKF14837]

If its overheating you are merely fixing the symptoms. Sounds to me like someone misdiagnosed at some point. If you dont find the overheating problem. ( could be as simple as a thermostat or waterpump) you'll just keep putting radiators in it. ( or worse). Just my two cents.

 

[Tom59]

My 2cents is either not enough or old anti freeze. Tanks looks to have expanded.

 

[macquigg]

Tanks looks to have expanded.

That is possible. Repeated flexing out and in could explain the outward loosening of the metal fingers.
But it doesn't explain the fact that the edges of the lower tank were bent inward when I removed the tank from the core. I'm still preferring the manufacturing defect theory.

The repaired radiator continues to function perfectly. No overheating. No loss of coolant. That windshield adhesive is amazing stuff. I'm going to add some loops of steel wire to keep that top tank from popping off. I'm also going to try and squeeze those fingers back in to where they touch the tank.

 

[Redneck in training]

I would replace the radiator cap. It should release exessive pressure, if it is faulty ir will blow the radiator.

 

[ZKF14837]

That is possible. Repeated flexing out and in could explain the outward loosening of the metal fingers.
But it doesn't explain the fact that the edges of the lower tank were bent inward when I removed the tank from the core. I'm still preferring the manufacturing defect theory.

The repaired radiator continues to function perfectly. No overheating. No loss of coolant. That windshield adhesive is amazing stuff. I'm going to add some loops of steel wire to keep that top tank from popping off. I'm also going to try and squeeze those fingers back in to where they touch the tank.

We used to have to squeeze the crimps on several mid to late 90's automobiles. The constant expanding and contracting would loosen the crimped fit. The defect theory could be correct and I'm sure its being looked into. I'm also sure its not the first time any of us have gotten a bad part right out of the box. Such is the case in the age when everything is made by machines now and not with the skilled hands and eyes of a human being. Loss of cooling system pressure will result in overheating, esp is the coolant to water mix is incorrect, or if the stat is stuck open/ closed. Good Luck!