7018 vs 6013 vs everything else

[rankrank1]

Yes and No. I use regular ole copper clad gouging carbons cause they cheap ($9 for box of 50) and readily avaialble. They are less than ideal but do work although not as well as the original type carbons.

That said, there are still movie projector carbons being made for the old time theater projectors, drive in movie projectors, and the old time anti-aircraft military lights. These show up all the time on ebay and are usually made in germany (and a bit pricey). But these will be the same as the original carbons and will work very well.

Also new old stock carbons shows up on ebay for cheap frequently (usually Craftsman brand).

If you really desperate you can take apart the big square and rectangle shaped alkaline batteries and use those as they will perform like originals too. That said there is an extreme risk of killing yourself with alkaline poisoning in salvaging from batteries so I personally would not go that route, but to each his own.

 

[Arc weld]

50 years ago there weren't as many options or used machines available. You can buy a new DC inverter which is not only a superior welder with a much higher duty cycle but costs about the same price as a new buzz box, around $300, uses a lot less power and comes with a 5 year warranty. You can even hook up a TIG torch to it. That's a heck of a bargain if you ask me.:thumbsup: DC current has a distinct advantage when doing out of position welding. For a newbie to welding it should be a no brainer. A better machine won't require nearly as much practice in order to make acceptable welds.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Kind of off topic but why do people typically do a first pass with a 6010 and then cover it up with a 7018? Why not just use a 7018?

For me the cost of rods is negligible compared to my time and the down time if something breaks. I weld pretty much everything with 6010 (5P+) but would consider 7018 if it was all purpose but I am not familiar with it enough to know if there are certain situations where you shouldn't use it or if the first pass of a 6010 is always required. As to the 6013 if it is inferior why buy it? Is it that much cheaper? Sounds like it is adequate so I wouldn't hesitate to use it if I had some but I wouldn't go buy some if I knew something better for the sAme cost was out there.

I didn't see anywhere in the thread where this was answered definitively. The reason for a root pass with 6010 or 6011 is because 7018 doesn't run well across a gap. It CAN be used with a gap but it requires some skill at working the puddle to make it jump across the gap whereas a 6010 can bridge a pretty good gap like is necessary with open butt welds for full penetration welds. 6010 also doesn't leave a lot of hard to remove slag in the crevices like a 7018 weld. Overall it is much easier to run a root pass with 60xx rods then fill and cap with 7018. IF you can access the back side of a weldment, then you can run 7018 for first pass, grind out the slag and weld the backside (as in structural steel welds) but this is not possible on pipe unless it is large enough to physically crawl inside and even then with the OSHA confined space process, it is a PITA to get set up to go inside for the backweld.

 

[LD1]

I find it odd that 6010 and 6011 fill gaps so well given that they are a deep penetrating rod.

I never used 6010, but the 6011 don't seem like it would fill well?? I think 7014 fills very well. Is there a reason it isn't used as a root pass since it is a 70 series rod??

 

[k0ua]

I find it odd that 6010 and 6011 fill gaps so well given that they are a deep penetrating rod.

I never used 6010, but the 6011 don't seem like it would fill well?? I think 7014 fills very well. Is there a reason it isn't used as a root pass since it is a 70 series rod??

It is the fast freeze of the 6010 and 6011 that help here.

 

[Shield Arc]

LD1 I understand a lot of places are testing now with open root pipe with 7018. I've played with it some, it is not near as easy as with 6010, but it can be done.
First picture is 7018 open root pipe, second in 6010 open root pipe.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Some places overseas use 6013 for open root...in fact a good bit of Europe and Asia I understand.

 

[LD1]

LD1 I understand a lot of places are testing now with open root pipe with 7018. I've played with it some, it is not near as easy as with 6010, but it can be done.
First picture is 7018 open root pipe, second in 6010 open root pipe.

I understand that 7018 isnt great at filling gaps(open rood).

My question was....why not 7014 instead of 6010?

Again, I havent used 6010, cause I have an AC machine, and when I have used a DC machine (everywhere I have ever worked), it has been 7018, but we arent dealing with pipe or gaps.

Just strictly looking at this from a "on paper" standpoint, and not from "experience", why not open root with 7014? Higher tensile strength. I would think the inspectors or engineers would see it this way. What am I missing?

 

[yomax4]

Man this is a long thread... I like all the general rods but I like to play with the fancy rods just for kicks. Welco 83-88 = 80K tensile 6011, MG rods 80Tand 500 are fancy 6013. MG600 and Super Missile are identical to Stoody Versalloy except Versalloy is only $8.00# instead of $30.00 and yes it's a 312 SS rod. Other cool ones are MG Easy Strike 1/16" = 6013, MG 780=7018, Nickel free synthetic cast rods. Even Silicon Bronze stick rods for welding thicker galvanized. Often times your LWS will give you one or 2 to try. ( or at least I used to give them away back in those days) Try some of these just for fun.

 

[R W]

I understand that 7018 isnt great at filling gaps(open rood).

My question was....why not 7014 instead of 6010?

, why not open root with 7014? Higher tensile strength. . What am I missing?

From memory 7014 was a very easy rod to use and should be an excellent rod for this application. Have never used 6010 in fact can't ever remember seeing a packet of them anywhere.