Tire chains-looking for opinions.

[TKSalty]

Dragoneggs,

I'm not sure we are talking about the same product… The stall mats I'm talking about don't come in a 'role'; they are a very heavy and dense rubber mat manufactured up in Canada, and I believe they are made from recycled car tires. They also sell a 1/2" mat, but I didn't think they would be substantial enough to protect the concrete in my shop from tire chains. Good luck, and Happy New Year

 

[Rob-D]

Mcushing,
I didn't notice much difference in traction, if any, when I went from 2 link to 4 link. The main claim of a 2 link chain is a smoother ride. I would say that if someone was leaving their chains on full time than may be a 4 link is a better option. All the old time farmers here run 4 link chains with no problems.

 

[mcushing]

Mcushing,
I didn't notice much difference in traction, if any, when I went from 2 link to 4 link. The main claim of a 2 link chain is a smoother ride. I would say that if someone was leaving their chains on full time than may be a 4 link is a better option. All the old time farmers here run 4 link chains with no problems.

Rob-D -- you may be right -- I don't know. My Dad continues to clear ~600 feet of driveway with a small hill using 4 link chains, and has done so for over 30 years without issue. He uses a 1969 Massey Ferguson 135 (2WD). I am on my first winter clearing a private road/driveway that is 2000 feet and has a hill that is steeper than any road I have seen in the MidWest. I've skidded backwards several times going up the hill with MFWD and differential lock enabled (back blade up). My theory was a 2 link will have more chain to ground contact and prevent the 'slip - grip effect' as described by someone in one of the chain threads on TBN. With more chain to ground contact I think the chance of starting to slip will be less. Again, just a theory we'll see how it goes.

I figure the only downside to 2 link is the extra $150 I spent + the pain of installing heavier chains.

Like others, the JD dealer told me I wouldn't need chains. My 4x4 SUVs make it up the hill with no problem, I suspect due to momentum.

 

[Jaeger]

I run front chains in bad snow on the 5030.

My reasoning (might be flawed) is I loose traction on my asphalt coming up my curved hill.

The front chains don't slip. Have never had any problems.

I figure they're way lighter to work with, don't push as much weight down onto my driveway and seem to be pretty good.

Jaeger

 

[dragoneggs]

Dragoneggs,

I'm not sure we are talking about the same product… The stall mats I'm talking about don't come in a 'role'; they are a very heavy and dense rubber mat manufactured up in Canada, and I believe they are made from recycled car tires. They also sell a 1/2" mat, but I didn't think they would be substantial enough to protect the concrete in my shop from tire chains. Good luck, and Happy New Year

I found them in 4 x 8ft sheet (3/4in thick) but also in 4ft wide roll at 1/2in thick. Black heavy rubberized stuff and very dense. Maybe not same but I think close?

 

[TKSalty]

Dragoneggs,
Thanks, I haven't seen the roles you're talking about, but I can see where they could be useful. Just out of curiosity, how long are the rolls? And which store carries them in your area?

 

[Rob-D]

Rob-D -- you may be right -- I don't know. My Dad continues to clear ~600 feet of driveway with a small hill using 4 link chains, and has done so for over 30 years without issue. He uses a 1969 Massey Ferguson 135 (2WD). I am on my first winter clearing a private road/driveway that is 2000 feet and has a hill that is steeper than any road I have seen in the MidWest. I've skidded backwards several times going up the hill with MFWD and differential lock enabled (back blade up). My theory was a 2 link will have more chain to ground contact and prevent the 'slip - grip effect' as described by someone in one of the chain threads on TBN. With more chain to ground contact I think the chance of starting to slip will be less. Again, just a theory we'll see how it goes.

I figure the only downside to 2 link is the extra $150 I spent + the pain of installing heavier chains.

Like others, the JD dealer told me I wouldn't need chains. My 4x4 SUVs make it up the hill with no problem, I suspect due to momentum.

You may be right, I've gone up some steep hills but never with ice or snow on them.

 

[mcushing]

You may be right, I've gone up some steep hills but never with ice or snow on them.

Attached is a picture of my driveway from my house. The steep part is at the end of the driveway. I'll take another picture there soon and post.

 

[dragoneggs]

Dragoneggs,
Thanks, I haven't seen the roles you're talking about, but I can see where they could be useful. Just out of curiosity, how long are the rolls? And which store carries them in your area?

Not sure how long you can get it in but I would say 'pretty long'. They cut to length. It's on a heavy duty steel roll frame. Sorry, place is just the local feed store in Silverdale. Only place I have seen it but haven't really looked around yet. I was looking for deer fencing when I happened on it and thought it would be great for the shop.

 

[EHR]

On my 1100 foot driveway 500 ft is uphill. The first 200 ft of the hill is a 20 degree slope. My Kioti would not make it up in 4wd with the differential locked. Now with ice chains on it will allow me to plow up hill in 2wd with out locking the differential. The best money I have spent.

 

[mcushing]

On my 1100 foot driveway 500 ft is uphill. The first 200 ft of the hill is a 20 degree slope. My Kioti would not make it up in 4wd with the differential locked. Now with ice chains on it will allow me to plow up hill in 2wd with out locking the differential. The best money I have spent.

EHR, it sounds like you may live in an area with similar winter conditions to Minnesota. By ice chains do you mean vbar? I would love to not lock the differential when going up my big hill. I don't mind being in MFWD. I decided on 2 link, hope to receive them by early next week.

 

[dstig1]

On my 1100 foot driveway 500 ft is uphill. The first 200 ft of the hill is a 20 degree slope. My Kioti would not make it up in 4wd with the differential locked. Now with ice chains on it will allow me to plow up hill in 2wd with out locking the differential. The best money I have spent.

Now THERE is a realistic tractor plowing description. I couldn't really move on my hill without chains once the snow and ice started to build up (R4s). I got duo grips as they are in the middle between basic 4-link or 2-link ladders and overly aggressive v-bars for a driveway. The problem I have run into is that I did not realize how bad it was for other vehicles that were not 4wd/AWD for a while.... now I get it and have improved my plowing to compensate... On the plus side that could help keep out daughter's future BFs...

 

[art]

Getting out of the box a bit with the thinking of chains we have been studding treactor tires for a couple of years and having excellent success so far!

Depending on the type of tires many of them will accept screw in studs that we were using on the rubber tract snow groomers. The catch is short enough screw so they are not so long to puncture the tire. So that normally means no turfs for a total stud pattern but some might go on the edge. The ag and industrial tires have done well other then some in the center where we have cut the screws so not to go to deep.

The plusses are a smooth ride on a hard surface no up and down and being able to drive down the roads at speed in between driveways with just a bit of noise! They do wear some, although we have not gone to carbide head screws yet and most people just remove them during the summer.

 

[Piston]

I have 4 link ladder chains on my L4610 Kubota with filled rears and R4 tires. I easily climbed a fairly steep hill in 12" of snow. The rears would slip between sets of "ladders" until more chain got under the tire. I had no problems climbing the hill but I do think I would have had better/quicker traction with 2 link ladders. There was grass under the snow where I'm referring to.
My father came up behind me in his 1T diesel with very heavy plow on the front (raised) and with some momentum, made it only partially up the same hill. It took him 3 tries to get up it.

I was planning on buying ice chains (Aqualine Talon's) for my rears but I have to drive on the road to get between my house and his. I also wanted them for winter logging in snow as I know they'd be a lot better than the ladders. Since it isn't too easy for me to take chains on and off, I came up with a solution.

I am going to order the Aqualine Talon chains for my front tires. This way, I can keep the ladders on the rear for the entire winter, and when I'm going into the woods I can lift the front tires off the ground with the loader, and easily install the chains. While operating I'll keep it in 2WD but when the rears are slipping or not catching good enough, I'll put it in 4WD and have all the traction I'll need....hopefully.

I also have plenty of hills (not overly steep) at my place in NH that these will come in really handy for.


Does this sound like a good idea?

 

[TomSeller]

Anyone heard much about these tire socks for road use? You would have to take them off before the snow melts or you would have wet socks.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zn8C5AxgpgU&feature=youtube_gdata_player

http://www.autosock.co.uk/

 

[3930dave]

I have 4 link ladder chains on my L4610 Kubota with filled rears and R4 tires. I easily climbed a fairly steep hill in 12" of snow. The rears would slip between sets of "ladders" until more chain got under the tire. I had no problems climbing the hill but I do think I would have had better/quicker traction with 2 link ladders. There was grass under the snow where I'm referring to.
My father came up behind me in his 1T diesel with very heavy plow on the front (raised) and with some momentum, made it only partially up the same hill. It took him 3 tries to get up it.

I was planning on buying ice chains (Aqualine Talon's) for my rears but I have to drive on the road to get between my house and his. I also wanted them for winter logging in snow as I know they'd be a lot better than the ladders. Since it isn't too easy for me to take chains on and off, I came up with a solution.

I am going to order the Aqualine Talon chains for my front tires. This way, I can keep the ladders on the rear for the entire winter, and when I'm going into the woods I can lift the front tires off the ground with the loader, and easily install the chains. While operating I'll keep it in 2WD but when the rears are slipping or not catching good enough, I'll put it in 4WD and have all the traction I'll need....hopefully.

I also have plenty of hills (not overly steep) at my place in NH that these will come in really handy for.


Does this sound like a good idea?

Sounds like a good plan to me - should give you selectable traction, and additional engine braking. I have regular chain (non V bar) Duo-Grips on my rears. They were a reasonable compromise between performance/cost/pavement preservation.

If you are in a situation where the front Vbar chains are delivering significantly more traction than the rear 4 links, you might want to keep in mind the power level you are operating at.

If you feel like adding individual connector chains between all your 4 links (to create an enhanced Duo-Grip layout), you will get some additional bite, and some added side slip (mild sidehills) traction.

Rgds, D.

 

[TBarD]

Looks like I have about 1.25" clearance sidewall-to-fender with the rear tires on my M59.
Can someone confirm if a narrow chain like the Aquiline will work for this case? Or something
else? Thanks. The info online never seems to mention the actual clearance required.

 

[Coyote machine]

Looks like I have about 1.25" clearance sidewall-to-fender with the rear tires on my M59.
Can someone confirm if a narrow chain like the Aquiline will work for this case? Or something
else? Thanks. The info online never seems to mention the actual clearance required.

I believe you may need at least 3" clearance for the Aquiline MPCs which I use. It could be less but probably not by much.
Here is an alternative, see link, that seems to be working great for a lot of guys with different model tractors for added traction withOUT chains or studs or (socks?:confused2, whatever. YMMV.


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/snow-removal/193438-cutting-groving-siping-r-4-a.html

 

[arrow]

I have 4 link ladder chains on my L4610 Kubota with filled rears and R4 tires. I easily climbed a fairly steep hill in 12" of snow. The rears would slip between sets of "ladders" until more chain got under the tire. I had no problems climbing the hill but I do think I would have had better/quicker traction with 2 link ladders. There was grass under the snow where I'm referring to.
My father came up behind me in his 1T diesel with very heavy plow on the front (raised) and with some momentum, made it only partially up the same hill. It took him 3 tries to get up it.

I was planning on buying ice chains (Aqualine Talon's) for my rears but I have to drive on the road to get between my house and his. I also wanted them for winter logging in snow as I know they'd be a lot better than the ladders. Since it isn't too easy for me to take chains on and off, I came up with a solution.

I am going to order the Aqualine Talon chains for my front tires. This way, I can keep the ladders on the rear for the entire winter, and when I'm going into the woods I can lift the front tires off the ground with the loader, and easily install the chains. While operating I'll keep it in 2WD but when the rears are slipping or not catching good enough, I'll put it in 4WD and have all the traction I'll need....hopefully.

I also have plenty of hills (not overly steep) at my place in NH that these will come in really handy for.


Does this sound like a good idea?

Depends how you bring stems to the landing. I pick mine up with the 3 point. I have 4 link ladders on the rear. This loads the rear of the tractor effectively enough where I do not need to engage 4wd in snow. Where 4wd comes in handy is completing the turn. With no weight, you have better traction in 4 wd. I did have front 2 link ladders on as well as the rears and in the snow, there is no stopping the tractor. In woods as opposed to ice, ladders are more than adequate. With jacking up the rear of the tractor, I have my rears on in 10 minutes from start to drive away chained.

 

[Piston]

Depends how you bring stems to the landing. I pick mine up with the 3 point. I have 4 link ladders on the rear. This loads the rear of the tractor effectively enough where I do not need to engage 4wd in snow. Where 4wd comes in handy is completing the turn. With no weight, you have better traction in 4 wd. I did have front 2 link ladders on as well as the rears and in the snow, there is no stopping the tractor. In woods as opposed to ice, ladders are more than adequate. With jacking up the rear of the tractor, I have my rears on in 10 minutes from start to drive away chained.

Thanks for the additional info.
I almost always carry the logs/tops in my FEL grapple, so of course sometimes there is a fairly heavy load which will make the rears slightly less effective. However with filled rears there is still a good amount of weight back there.

The one thing I was a bit concerned about was hurting the pavement when I have to travel a couple hundred yards on it to get to one logging area. I called the tire chain sales company and they said that as long as I don't have an extremely heavy load in the FEL, and I keep it in 2wd only whenever on the pavement, it won't hurt the road at all. There is a chance I may notice a couple scratches on the pavement but I'm not worried about that.

For the most part, It will be very rare for me to travel on pavement with the Talon chains on my fronts, but is wanted to make sure that it would be okay once in a while as long as I'm careful.

I still haven't made the final commitment (I.e. Haven't actually purchased them yet) but I'm getting closer and closer. It's a lot of money to spend on chains so I'm going to think about it some more and go from there.