Log Splitter I-Beam BENDING...!

[Artisan]

Hey folks...


I have a log splitter and due to a poor horizontal wedge design ( I do believe) , when
the 5.5" Bore X 2" Rod Cylinder @3000PSI pushes, it was/is causing the push block
to LIFT as the round encounters the horizontal part of the wedge assembly.

The push block has 1/2" thick steel hold downs under the I Beams
lip of coarse and the 71,000 or so pounds of force is actually bending
the top of the IBEAM up. (See pics)

It bent the 12 1/2" bolts a tad and the under plates as well.
(New parts being cut now)

Understand I am not loading this w/ "normal" rounds. I seem to always get
the 24" to 48" diameter stuff (LOTS of wood in them too! ) I want to be
able to destroy any round w/o issue. A new I beam, (or I beam repair) "may" be in my future
but for now I want to try to salvage this, if I can, w/o making it worse.


I want to bend it back down w/o destroying the "hardness?" of the I BEAM
if possible. I have an Acetylene torch w/ a tip that is about 3/4" in diameter
and an OX / Acetylene Rosebud tip I can use at the same time.
I was considering heating it offset from center and gently, w/o going to far,
sledge hammer it down a few inches at a time.


Will I be OK or am I ruining the hardness of the I Beam ?

Will I be OK if I do my deeds then let it cool on its own?


(The horizontal splitting wedge was originally cut w/ a one angle face.
I have now changed that to more of an edge like one would
find on an Axe, see pics.

 

[bcp]

After getting it straight, how about thicker hold-down bars under the rail, that almost touch the center rib, if these don't? And fasten them with larger bolts. The edges can't bend up if the hold-down bars reach the center and can't bend.



Forget the splitter! Tell me about that Jeep truck/wagon in the background.



Bruce

 

[Shield Arc]

Heat it up, beat / press it into place. If you can't box that end in, your only choice is to double up on the flanges, and both sides of the web.

 

[yomax4]

Had the same issue. I stayed with the smaller hold downs and reinforced the center of the beam. 3/8 x 8" in my case. Then out front I did gussets. Mine had room for 2 = 1/4" thick gussets on each side 1" apart. They can be made as tall as your beam but can reach back or angled on the top how ever far you can get clearance.. Its an easy fun and effective fix. Box in the front too. I've welded my wedge back on many times, Often requiring Torch and Plasma. That hasn't seemed to cause any brittle/ductile issues in my I beam so far. I guess you can alter the pressure on your valve to make it less powerful. Good Luck...

 

[yomax4]

Is that Wedge not on the center of the beam?. It almost looks like the wedge is part of a separate welded on part. If not the front would have to be opened up to reinforce. I was shocked at what Hydraulic pressure could do. I made up a similar log table like the green one you have. While splitting a 36" hunk of oak, It caught and the Hydraulics destroyed my table made of 3/4 black pipe.. I changed my design and used 1.5" and made it so it would flip up so I didn't have to extend my hitch or jack. I sometimes surprise myself and this was one of those times.

 

[DarkBlack]

If you're worried about the "hardness" you need to identify the steel. Look on the I-beam web for an identification.
I doubt it's more than an economical steel that has had no heat treatment, but I could be wrong. Once you find the identifier, you can look up. If it's a commonly heat treated material there are published temperatures and times for heat treatment.
FYI, Heating by a homeowner can commonly cause a steel to become harder. This is not always a good thing, as you might loose toughness, and the next thing you know, it's cracked.

 

[Shield Arc]

Another way to beef a beam up is to weld in stiffeners. Cut a plate that will slide in between the flanges. Weld the stiffeners to both flanges and the web. Really don't see how this would work on a log splitter though!:confused3:

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Can't tell exactly, but it looks like your vertical wedge is dull. Maybe it's an optical illusion but it looks like it has a radius for a cutting edge. Sharpen it and see how much easier it cuts. (If it is dull).

 

[rdbigfarmboy]

Its the slide that is causing warping.
you must redo the slide to keep it from raising up as it nears the wedge.
The slide and guides probably need to extend at least one foot on either side of the push bar.

 

[Artisan]

After getting it straight, how about thicker hold-down bars under the rail, that almost touch the center rib, if these don't? And fasten them with larger bolts. The edges can't bend up if the hold-down bars reach the center and can't bend.



Forget the splitter! Tell me about that Jeep truck/wagon in the background.



Bruce

The underside of that IBeam is not flat...kinda tapered. Thank you fo rthe input!

That green Jeep was gonna be a WarWagon type stripped really obnoxious
race kinda jeep truck stripped for Glamis and the Desert to pull
behind my other Jeep, a 1979' J-30, yep, J-30, 1 ton everything, I stuffed an Np205 in it,
I clocked the TH400 w/ a clocking ring, nothing hangs below the rails,
and it has a 365HP ( Dyno'd ) engine (401) . It will be finished someday,
long story why not finished, PLUS I found Military trucks and I had to get one of them.

That is the main reason I have been absent for so long...

Here it is in Idaho during the drive from Ft Lewis to Los Angeles. :-D

I have since tricked it out considerably, all MV style too.

 

[Artisan]

Heat it up, beat / press it into place. If you can't box that end in, your only choice is to double up on the flanges, and both sides of the web.

Yep, I was thinkin' of maybe marryin' a 3/4" thick plate to the top
of the I Beam but then I need to raise the cylinder too and THAT
would be a big deal. If I went that far I think I would yank the existing
I Beam and fab in a new monster.

 

[Artisan]

Another way to beef a beam up is to weld in stiffeners. Cut a plate that will slide in between the flanges. Weld the stiffeners to both flanges and the web. Really don't see how this would work on a log splitter though!:confused3:

Will not work, the pusher plate has plates that slide under the top to keep it on track and safety.

 

[Artisan]

Had the same issue. I stayed with the smaller hold downs and reinforced the center of the beam. 3/8 x 8" in my case. Then out front I did gussets. Mine had room for 2 = 1/4" thick gussets on each side 1" apart. They can be made as tall as your beam but can reach back or angled on the top how ever far you can get clearance.. Its an easy fun and effective fix. Box in the front too. I've welded my wedge back on many times, Often requiring Torch and Plasma. That hasn't seemed to cause any brittle/ductile issues in my I beam so far. I guess you can alter the pressure on your valve to make it less powerful. Good Luck...

I would love to see some pics !

 

[Artisan]

Is that Wedge not on the center of the beam?. It almost looks like the wedge is part of a separate welded on part. If not the front would have to be opened up to reinforce. I was shocked at what Hydraulic pressure could do. I made up a similar log table like the green one you have. While splitting a 36" hunk of oak, It caught and the Hydraulics destroyed my table made of 3/4 black pipe.. I changed my design and used 1.5" and made it so it would flip up so I didn't have to extend my hitch or jack. I sometimes surprise myself and this was one of those times.

Yep, I bent my table that is at my waist while operating
because a rounds limb was hanging down. Tore it up good.
THAT is on my list of refinements as well.

 

[Artisan]

If you're worried about the "hardness" you need to identify the steel. Look on the I-beam web for an identification.
I doubt it's more than an economical steel that has had no heat treatment, but I could be wrong. Once you find the identifier, you can look up. If it's a commonly heat treated material there are published temperatures and times for heat treatment.
FYI, Heating by a homeowner can commonly cause a steel to become harder. This is not always a good thing, as you might loose toughness, and the next thing you know, it's cracked.

Uggg...THANK YOU for the info...

 

[Shield Arc]

Yep, I was thinkin' of maybe marryin' a 3/4" thick plate to the top
of the I Beam

I thought I was going have to do that to a log splitter I built for my brother-n-law. But he has been splitting oak for a couple years now.
Built this out of my scrap pile, just had to buy a few hoses.

 

[yomax4]

Like to have that splitter.

 

[Leejohn]

Look at how I had to mount the cyl. to the pusher plate, that stopped mine from digging into the I beam.

 

[Shield Arc]

The subject of strengthen beams always interest me, I've worked with a few beams in my time.
I've seen this detail before for strengthen Bar Joists, but found this detail for strengthen a beam. I don't know how much strength it would add, but I wonder if you added doubler plates to both sides of the web, cut some holes in the center of the doubler plates so you can plug weld them to the web. Skip weld the doubler plates to both top, and bottom flange. Then add the round stock to the bottom of the top flange?:confused3:

 

[ETpilot]

I am no expert on this subject. I am starting a splitter build after the new year. I will weld a 1/2" flat plate to the top of my I-beam. I plan to weld some scrap pipe to beam flange and web similar to what Shield Arc posted. I may also add pipe to bottom i-beam flange. i will box in both ends of beam and add gussets where able. This should provide some strength.

Also, most important IMO, I will ensure that the cylinder extends and retracts parallel to the top plate. Any angled pushing may cause the slide to push up or down on the top plate. Finally, I will mount the cylinder parallel and as close to the top plate as possible. This should minimize any up and down forces on the slide as it contacts the wood.

Just a few points I am considering. Not sure if they are helpful to you. Good luck with your repair.