2010 DK40 SE Won't Start

[TimbourLarry]

I have appreciated reading many of the prior posts and I hope you will indulge me as this will be my first post and I have limited experience performing mechanical/electrical work on tractors. In February I bought a used Kioti DK 40 SE which had been traded at a New Holland dealership with only 75 hours and it currently has 95 hours. I love the tractor but about a month ago I began to experience intermittent starting difficulties and then ultimately it failed to start at all. Thinking to the problem to be in the fuel system, I replaced the fuel filter and bled the fuel system including the injectors but had no success in starting the tractor. After reading some of the posts I decided to remove the stop solenoid and the tractor immediately started. Thinking I had a bad solenoid I replaced it only to learn that the tractor would still not start. The closest Kioti dealership is over 100 miles away and I had a discussion with the service manager who indicated that the problem could be a faulty ignition switch as Kioti has experienced problems in that area. I believe the tractor is still under warranty but can't get the courtesy of a reply to my email from the Kioti US headquarters in NC. The knowledge base on this board is amazing and I would appreciate any advice someone could give as to what my next steps should be.

 

[murphy1244]

Kioti does have a 4 year power train warranty. Don't think it will include a switch thou. If it was mine knowing what I know about their switches I would replace it. But first take a jumper cable and connect from Neg battery post to a good ground to kill a possible bad cable problem

 

[phiferpharm]

Kioti does have a 4 year power train warranty. Don't think it will include a switch thou. If it was mine knowing what I know about their switches I would replace it. But first take a jumper cable and connect from Neg battery post to a good ground to kill a possible bad cable problem

I don't know about that Murph, they replaced mine no charge the last time I had it serviced last month. Don't think it was just a courtesy as the dealer I'm going to now is not the one I purchased the Tractor from..

 

[k0ua]

OK.. this gets fairly complicated pretty fast..Do you have a good multimeter and know how to use it? Also further information HST or gear, and ROPS or Cab model? Do you have a pretty good understanding of what relay coils, and contacts and solenoids do? The reason I ask this is because you stated you have a limited experience in electrical.. It seems you have more experience in mechanical to know enough to suspect the fuel stop solenoid.. Of course you wasted some bucks already in what I call the "shotgun" parts changeout approach, instead of using the scientific method approach to electrical troubleshooting.. There is no shame in this, as many mechanics use this approach also, but it is costly when you do it and you don't work for a repair shop with a shelf full of spare parts to "shotgun" in and out when that did not fix it either.

If you will keep up the dialog and answer the questions and keep me informed of your every move, I will try to help you troubleshoot. Keep in mind this is a very difficult thing to do, to assist someone over a forum like this, but we have had some success at it. It just depends on how good you are at informing me of what you see, and how good I am at interpreting the results. The next move is up to you.

James K0UA

 

[murphy1244]

I don't know about that Murph, they replaced mine no charge the last time I had it serviced last month. Don't think it was just a courtesy as the dealer I'm going to now is not the one I purchased the Tractor from..

Then go with it. I take power train to be engine trans or rear diff but who am I to say.

 

[k0ua]

Murph I believe him to say that the tractor cranks fine, but will not start. And it will not start because the fuel solenoid has not been operated. He knows this because when he removed the fuel solenoid entirely the tractor cranked and started. Of course he replace the fuel solenoid thinking it was defective, and of course that did not fix the problem as the original fuel solenoid is not defective, nor is the replacement one. To the original poster please correct anything I said here that is not true.

James K0UA

 

[murphy1244]

Murph I believe him to say that the tractor cranks fine, but will not start. And it will not start because the fuel solenoid has not been operated. He knows this because when he removed the fuel solenoid entirely the tractor cranked and started. Of course he replace the fuel solenoid thinking it was defective, and of course that did not fix the problem as the original fuel solenoid is not defective, nor is the replacement one. To the original poster please correct anything I said here that is not true.

James K0UA

James, You do this better than me so I'll watch.

 

[k0ua]

James, You do this better than me so I'll watch.

It ain't easy for any of us.. I could fix it a heck of a lot faster If I was standing beside the tractor with a printed out schematic in one hand and a good multimeter in the other. This remote control trouble shooting is for the birds!:duh:

 

[k0ua]

He is already halfway to a solution as the problem is now "why does not the fuel solenoid operate" instead of "why does not the tractor start" and we have determined the tractor cranks, but does not start, and we know why.

 

[k0ua]

The first thing we are going to do is determine which model of engine stop solenoid you have. The prior to may 2007 with only 2 electical connector terminals or the post may 2007 with the 3 electrical connector terminals. I am going to stop here for now until I hear from the original poster.

James K0UA

 

[TimbourLarry]

Thanks to all for your responses and I'll try to respond. The tractor is gear drive with ROPS and the solenoid has 3 terminals. Unfortunately I do not have a multimeter but I can get one and probably stumble through some electrical checks although I don't know about relays and contacts. Thanks to all.

 

[k0ua]

Thanks to all for your responses and I'll try to respond. The tractor is gear drive with ROPS and the solenoid has 3 terminals. Unfortunately I do not have a multimeter but I can get one and probably stumble through some electrical checks although I don't know about relays and contacts. Thanks to all.

Let us know when you are ready to proceed. I take it you want to try, correct?.. do you have a friend who is experienced that could work with you.?

 

[Coyote machine]

Warranty IS transferable to a subsequent owner, the OP, through Kioti. If the tractor was originally purchased after August 1st, 2010 here is the coverage in brief: *The engine includes the crankcase, cylinder head, front gear case, valve cover pans, and all parts contained therein. Does NOT include fuel, electrical, cooling, intake, and exhaust components.

From: http://www.kioti.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/2010-2012_KIOTI_Warranty_TRACTOR-ENGLISH.pdf

 

[k0ua]

Well we haven't heard back from him..he was going to buy a multimeter. I have been keeping the schematic up on the PC hoping he would return. Unfortunately he has no electronic experience. We shall see.

 

[TimbourLarry]

Well we haven't heard back from him..he was going to buy a multimeter. I have been keeping the schematic up on the PC hoping he would return. Unfortunately he has no electronic experience. We shall see.

I'm sorry for the delay in responding but my regular job has kept me very busy the last couple of days. Yes, I definitely want to work through the problem and will try to find someone who can assist me. I assume I will need to purchase a multimeter so I will do that today and will be ready to start tomorrow PM. Many thanks to all the helpful people on this board.

 

[k0ua]

This one could work.. It does not have to be a digital. There are advantages/disadvantages to both. I have examples of both, and use both. For the simple troubleshooting we are going to do here, it does not take much.

Gardner Bender 5-Function 12-Range Analog Multimeter-GMT-312 at The Home Depot

 

[ritcheyvs]

Just about any cheapie multimeter (often called a voltmeter) will do the job. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, they usually have a couple for under $10. Otherwise just about any meter you find at Walmart, a car parts place, Tractor Supply, Radio Shack, etc will do the job. Make sure it has a DC volts scale greater than 12v. Also an ampere capability (200 milliamp and 10 amp scales are typical) is useful for finding small current leaks. You do want a meter with leads (wires) and preferably leads with alligator clips (clip them on to free up a hand).

The main caution using a meter involves the ampere scale. If you were, for example to connect the meter across the battery in current mode (amp scale) you WILL damage the meter. If you are lucky it will only blow an internal fuse inside the meter. So be sure you are in a Volt scale when you try to measure volts.

 

[k0ua]

For that matter a tail light bulb with 2 alligator clips soldered on it and a paper clip for a probe would work for what we need to test. But I am betting he does not have a soldering iron.

 

[k0ua]

Just about any cheapie multimeter (often called a voltmeter) will do the job. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, they usually have a couple for under $10. Otherwise just about any meter you find at Walmart, a car parts place, Tractor Supply, Radio Shack, etc will do the job. Make sure it has a DC volts scale greater than 12v. Also an ampere capability (200 milliamp and 10 amp scales are typical) is useful for finding small current leaks. You do want a meter with leads (wires) and preferably leads with alligator clips (clip them on to free up a hand).

The main caution using a meter involves the ampere scale. If you were, for example to connect the meter across the battery in current mode (amp scale) you WILL damage the meter. If you are lucky it will only blow an internal fuse inside the meter. So be sure you are in a Volt scale when you try to measure volts.

Don't forget checking voltage sources when on the resistance scale.... poof!:shocked: You will let out the smoke, and as you know they run on smoke, once you let out the smoke, well they don't work so well after that.

 

[TimbourLarry]

I purchased an analog multimeter over the weekend which I think meets requirements and I will grab a friend to assist me whenever it is convenient for someone to walk us through the system test/check. thanks again for all who have been so helpful.