Why doesn't my MX6 suck?

[ddivinia]

Ok you guys are right - I am running my top link too tight. There is a slot in the new linkage. I set min to run in the middle of the range. I tell ya with pull types you don't have this issue. Also can change the cut height with a simple donut on the hydraulic cylinder. I'll report in when get me mx8 pull type.

D.

 

[econometrics]

tell ya with pull types you don't have this issue. Also can change the cut height with a simple donut on the hydraulic cylinder. I'll report in when get me mx8 pull type. D.

That's what I've been thinking. That a pull type MX8 would really make my cutting a lot easier.

You have one ordered? They have a used one at my local JD dealer that I have been thinking about trading my MX6 for. It looks like it's in good shape.

The only thing holding me back is that I don't have a remote on my 5103. Hence why I would like to upgrade to a 5065/5075 soon, then add on the MX8 while I'm at it. If rather spend the money towards a new tractor than having a remote installed on my 5103.

 

[ddivinia]

I have a MX-8 pull type on order for my 5093e which is at the dealer. I ordered a H260 loader with the 5 series carrier. Special order - should be here by the end of the month. i already have a HX-15 so this is a good in between.

D.

 

[econometrics]

I have a MX-8 pull type on order for my 5093e which is at the dealer. I ordered a H260 loader with the 5 series carrier. Special order - should be here by the end of the month. i already have a HX-15 so this is a good in between. D.

Nice! Did you sell your MX6, or trade it in on the deal? I've been thinking I could get around $2K trade in on mine. It has minimal use.

 

[ddivinia]

I have 2.5 MX6s. They are handy - I have two places, I am going to leave one at each. The 1/2 of a MX6 i am debating just selling it for scrap. Pull the drive line off of it and get paid by the pound.

I doubt you will get $2K trade in on it. Maybe on CL, but considering a new one is $2750 I bet you get around $1500-1700 offer on it at the dealership.

D.

 

[econometrics]

I have 2.5 MX6s. They are handy - I have two places, I am going to leave one at each. The 1/2 of a MX6 i am debating just selling it for scrap. Pull the drive line off of it and get paid by the pound. I doubt you will get $2K trade in on it. Maybe on CL, but considering a new one is $2750 I bet you get around $1500-1700 offer on it at the dealership. D.

I have no experience trading anything in with the dealer, so that's good to know.

I've thought of keeping my MX6, too. It's so easy to trailer. And if I got a pull type MX8, how could I get that thing onto a trailer? And I suppose it would not be as easy bush hogging in tight spots since I can't lift it and drop it onto downed brush as easily.

 

[arlen4720]

I would hang on to it too, and maybe let it go if a friend or relative wants it. You lose too much, and like you say, it will be handy to have around, and would make a great backup if something happens to your other one.

 

[ddivinia]

Exactly why I kept my mx6. I was debating a mx7 but the mx6 is good heavy enough.

D.

 

[econometrics]

Resurrecting this thread I started...

So I got to use my MX6 with my new 5075E for the first time today. Did about 2-3 acres for a friend that was pretty thick / tall.

I was astonished at how well it cut! To the best of my guestimating, the mower was set exactly the same as it was on my 5103. (I didn't adjust the tail wheel at all). However, the cut was impeccable!

On my 5103, I never mowed faster than 3-3.5mph (B2). However, I was able to buzz through around 5mph on my 5075 today in 540E PTO. I couldn't believe how well the MX6 was cutting.

Here are my musings on why it cut so much better...

- The tractor is heavier, so the mower stayed where I wanted it better. (I doubt this one)
- The MFWD front tires and wider, 16.9x28 rear tires do not squash the grass down as much, meaning the MX6 can pick it up and shred it easier.

My old 5103 had the 2wd tires that really ran the grass over harshly. The R1 bias tires on the front of my 5075E could be a little easier on the grass with that kind of tread pattern?

I really have no idea. But here's a pic so you can see how purdy it looked.

 

[ddivinia]

I had a similar experience 4520 vs 5525. I wonder if it a torque or rotating mass thing.

Cool deal about the new rig.

D.

 

[econometrics]

I had a similar experience 4520 vs 5525. I wonder if it a torque or rotating mass thing.

After today, I have to think that HAS to have something to do with it. I was really shocked (in a good way) at how well it was cutting behind the 5075.

My pastures are a little more dense on the grasses, so it will be interesting to see if I get the same results when I shred them sometime soon. I guess it's going to rain on us here in N/NE TX over the weekend? That likely means I'll need to cut again in a week or so.

 

[ddivinia]

Let us know.


My 5525 in Epto cuts better than my 4520 full bore.

D.

 

[PTW3320]

I had the same problem with my mx6. My top link adjuster got so hopelessly jammed I took it straight to the dealership and got them to fix it on the spot. Mine looks exactly like the pic that ddivinia posted, it was the top bolt that jammed. They took it out completely and let it float only the bottom one. They set it up with the tail wheel set in the second last hole, just touching the ground. Then they set the lift arms to be about 1/2" to 1" lower in the front part of the mower deck than the rear. Then they set the top link with about 2-1/2" of contouring action. Problem almost solved. I asked why it always leaves so much grass standing where the tires have been, it's supposed to have suction blades, but it always looked like crap. So here's the trick...mow clockwise only! and always overlap enough on the finished side to grab the trail of pushed down grass from the last pass that you just mowed. I argued that it was a waste of time and fuel to overlap that much, but they said to measure the distance between the tailwheel trails...yup, sure enough 6 feet. (overlap one foot to get a good finish, or mow the entire field twice?) Now it mows great!!! Try this part number: W45327 for the blades, they should suck up small farm yard animals. Also, I mow never faster than 2.5mph.

 

[TomSeller]

I think the JD mowers are underrated for general field mowing/trimming. Not talking hogging here. They seem to do a nice job lifting the grass after it is flattened by the tires, then getting a clean cut. Nice rounded back and chain guards. I like mine.

 

[econometrics]

Let us know.


My 5525 in Epto cuts better than my 4520 full bore.

D.

Will do. I suppose I will cut again in the next week or two after this rain we had over the weekend.

So here's the trick...mow clockwise only! and always overlap enough on the finished side to grab the trail of pushed down grass from the last pass that you just mowed. I argued that it was a waste of time and fuel to overlap that much, but they said to measure the distance between the tailwheel trails...yup, sure enough 6 feet. (overlap one foot to get a good finish, or mow the entire field twice?) Now it mows great!!! Try this part number: W45327 for the blades, they should suck up small farm yard animals. Also, I mow never faster than 2.5mph.

I have definitely noticed that mowing clockwise seems to work the best. But you never mow faster than 2.5mph? I think that, again, gives credit to ddivinia and I's theory that higher HP tractors run the MX6 better. Because I was cutting at 5.1mph most of the day last Friday and the MX6 was working better than it ever did for me before (I usually used to cut around 3mph).

Also, those are the blades I'm using. Got them from the dealer. :thumbsup:

I think the JD mowers are underrated for general field mowing/trimming. Not talking hogging here. They seem to do a nice job lifting the grass after it is flattened by the tires, then getting a clean cut. Nice rounded back and chain guards. I like mine.

I like mine a lot more now that it cuts efficiently behind my 5075E, ha!

 

[TomSeller]

I have definitely noticed that mowing clockwise seems to work the best.

If the grass your tire knocked down on the previous round gets hit by the blade traveling backward, against the knocked down grass, it seems to cut better. On turns you don’t want it where the inside blade tip is slower relative to the ground on counterclockwise. You want faster tips relative to the ground on the turn.

 

[ddivinia]

My newer mx6s mow better. I think they increased the tip speed. I have 2.5 of them. The 2002 model had the output shaft shear. The newer ones are noticeably better. The newest one Roth the 5 yr warranty gear box gets after it.

Of course I looked at a bushhog the other day. Their bheavy duty model makes the mx6 look like a toy. I have not seen a hx6 yet.

D.

 

[econometrics]

Of course I looked at a bushhog the other day. Their bheavy duty model makes the mx6 look like a toy. I have not seen a hx6 yet.

D.

No kidding. I have looked at their 8' offerings before, and they seem a lot stronger than what I've seen from an MX8.

 

[TomSeller]

No kidding. I have looked at their 8' offerings before, and they seem a lot stronger than what I've seen from an MX8.

I think Deere is mostly focused on grass cutting, pasture clean up, etc. due to their ag heritage. I would not buy or expect the Deere to compete
In the heavy cutter market. But with that comes the extra weight and cost of course. Well maybe not cost, the green paint costs a lot to apply.

 

[arlen4720]

Deerehas the CX and HX lines which are very heavy and rated for 4" brush. The MX's are considered their "medium duty" cutters