Land plain blade height help

[MtnViewRanch]

Re: Dragalong

I do like your land leveller Fred - the one i bulit was a quick knockup out of stuff lying around and is still a work in progress. What i like about yours is the way you say it takes the material over to one side to create a crown, handy having the adjustable cutters for depth & angle. The only thing i don't like on most 3 pt hitch attached levellers is that (unless I'm missing something) they stay fairly rigidly set (even like the berends one below is fairly rigid, but maybe float mode & a deft hand on a hydraulic top link would cover it) so when you transition between grades (i.e. lumps & hollows) that you want smooth transitions for they either lift off the ground or dig in - I know you can try & feather the lift height etc but thats why I like the tow behind (set & go).
.

You don't really have that problem, it never digs in much because the runners stop it. If you have the weight and power, you can just put the 3pt lever down so that you get full travel up and down and if you have a hydraulic side link with float mode, then it will pivot side ways and you have your smooth finished surface. The land plane grading blades are nothing like a box blade or a rear blade where you can get wash boarding ^^^^^ or the whoop tee doos ^--^--^--^--^.

 

[Jeembawb]

Re: Dragalong

You don't really have that problem, it never digs in much because the runners stop it. If you have the weight and power, you can just put the 3pt lever down so that you get full travel up and down and if you have a hydraulic side link with float mode, then it will pivot side ways and you have your smooth finished surface. The land plane grading blades are nothing like a box blade or a rear blade where you can get wash boarding ^^^^^ or the whoop tee doos ^--^--^--^--^.

I can make those "Whoop tee doos" real easy with my dozer - way too easy . Makes it a fun test for suspension. Cheers

 

[john40981]

What a great looking build, very well done Rustyiron, and now given me new ideas.

 

[john40981]

Hay Jimbob, I know what me mean about the "whoop tee doos" with the dozer, that is one of the reasons I need the land plain to fix up my stuff ups with the dozer. Mind you it is great fun flattening every in your path with a dozer. I have 1000acres of mainly scrub and a family that is into dirt bikes and quads so lots of tracks need to be made, so lots of fun for me on the dozer and tractor. Thanks everyone for all the info, it's of great help and I have now changed my design multiple times based on what has been said. Pictures are worth 1000 words so thanks for the pictures, it shows some great skills in home made implements.

John

 

[Rustyiron]

What is the extra parts braced up on the rear and do you have more photos?

I think bukitcase answered my question with his first link. Looks to be a skid steer attachment to be used as a pusher.

Yes, ss mount to push it. Bukit (thoughtfully) put in the links (post 19) of the build where there are more pics. The depth adj. is really nice to have but it does add a lot of work to your build. Even a simple skid shoe that you could adjust up or down in a series of bolt holes would be good, also handy as your cutting edge wears.

 

[smiley]

Re: Dragalong

I can make those "Whoop tee doos" real easy with my dozer - way too easy . Makes it a fun test for suspension. Cheers

When I first started dozing one of my old bosses used to tell me, "never mind that fancy stuff, just make it level"

 

[john40981]

John, are you going to used curved cutting edges?

I really like your LP Rusty Iron.

Hi Roger, I'm going to use curved cutting blades. Ex-council used grader blades, they only use one side because of the hole placement so if I reverse them they are brand new edges and better still they were free. I have 5 so I was going to use two turned flat to the ground as the wear side runners, 2 as the cutting blades and may be one as a tailgate that can be locked down to move material if needed.

 

[john40981]

Hi John,

I have no advice on, making a grader, but thanks for asking the question, because now I hafe even more information for when I do get around to making one.

Also I have to ask:

What are: a 5' "slasher blade", a "Jibb", and a "tree pusher"?

Thanks and G'Day,
Thomas

Hi Thomas,
To answer your questions about my add on's, Not sure if our names may not be what you call them in the US. I have a 5' slasher (3pl PTO cuts grass) and a 5' grader blade ( 3pl back blade) listed but not a 5' slasher blade?? That would be a big *** slasher to spin a 5' blade. Jibb is just a lifting arm that attaches to the 3pl like a crane. The tree pusher, or tree spear is an heavy "A" frame that attaches to and above the dozer blade to push high on a tree to push it over. It normally has about a 3' toothed or spiked front that digs into the tree trunk so it doesn't slip off. Hope this answers your question. I do understand that this is not something that is common in the US for some reason?? I don't have a pic of my dozer with the spear attached so I have attached a pic of one I found on google to show you what I am talking about. You need a very solidly made canopy above your head to use this as large branches commonly come crashing down on top of you when you push over trees, we call them "widow makers"

 

[94BULLITT]

Hi Roger, I'm going to use curved cutting blades. Ex-council used grader blades, they only use one side because of the hole placement so if I reverse them they are brand new edges and better still they were free. I have 5 so I was going to use two turned flat to the ground as the wear side runners, 2 as the cutting blades and may be one as a tailgate that can be locked down to move material if needed.

I think I have a couple like you are talking about. The bolt holes are at the top instead of the middle of the cutting edge.

 

[john40981]

I think I have a couple like you are talking about. The bolt holes are at the top instead of the middle of the cutting edge.

Yes, not sure why they make them like this, stops you being able to use both sides. They must be for different machines with different hole placements. Good for us though, gives an unused edge.

 

[94BULLITT]

Yes, not sure why they make them like this, stops you being able to use both sides. They must be for different machines with different hole placements. Good for us though, gives an unused edge.

I am not sure how I would reuse them unless I weld them on.

 

[yelbike]

I am not sure how I would reuse them unless I weld them on.

That's what I had to do but then they aren't adjustable.

 

[john40981]

I was going to weld them on to a 3" X 3" X 1/4" angle at the back then weld that to adjustable plates each end so height can be adjusted. I thought it would take a long time for me to wear out a blade so I didn't need to have the blade removeable by bolting on. If I did eventually need to replace a blade I thought I could just weld a new blade on top of the old blade.

 

[sandman2234]

I am a little late to this post, but thought if you guys wanted some pictures to look at, my Dava Grader build has about 80 picture thumbnails.
Click on the small picture and a larger one should appear.


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/175396-dava-grader-process.html

David from jax

 

[john40981]

I am a little late to this post, but thought if you guys wanted some pictures to look at, my Dava Grader build has about 80 picture thumbnails.
Click on the small picture and a larger one should appear.


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/175396-dava-grader-process.html

David from jax

Nice build David, I like how solid it is, run over what ever is in the way and not worry about it bending anything. I was making mine out of what I had lying around but I don't think it will be strong enough so I will need to buy some heavier steel I think. My tractor is 68Hp so it will put a fair strain on things if I get into some big rocks or more likely tree roots.

 

[john40981]

well after a few weeks of night and weekend work I have a finished land plain finally. Just finished the paint job today so I thought I would show some pic of the finished product with a bit of a time line of getting to the end. I used some steel I already had and had to buy some all up it cost about $600 to build. The 5 grader blades that I used were free It is 6'6" wide and 8' long estimated weight about 500lb plus the 44gal water drum adding another 400lb if needed. We are in sandy soil so not sure if I will need the extra weight by it's there if I do, just need to fill it.

after all the hard work I hope it does the job

 

[classacthollow]

The nice thing about the blue barrel is you could add a sprayer to it and do a wet down. Nice job, I will be starting one soon.

 

[john40981]

The nice thing about the blue barrel is you could add a sprayer to it and do a wet down. Nice job, I will be starting one soon.

What a good idea, I hadn't though of that but would be an easy adaption and with our dusty sandy soil a good option. Thanks :thumbsup:

 

[94BULLITT]

Nice job John.

Sent from my Samsung SPH-L710 using TractorByNet

 

[Jeembawb]

Good work - I like the storage in your welder trolley too.

Are the cutting edges fixed or adjustable John?

Jimbob