Water line into new Pole Barn.....

[Mac D]

Guys, new on here but looking for some advice. I am finishing up a new pole barn and need to run water into it. I had it built next to an older open pole barn that I already had. There is water about 10 feet away at the old pole barn. (I ran water to it years ago from the house..use it for filling the sprayer, washing up, etc.) The new pole barn is insulated and I had it stubbed for toilet, sink but need to run the water over there and in. Over is no problem but thinking about a way to run it inside CLEANLY. The new barn is insulated so thought I'd run it inside to be on the safe side, along the wall and over to the sink area. How to run it inside the building? Do I punch a hole in the new sheet metal siding? If so, any of you guys have a good way to make it look good and protect the pipe from freezing? THANKS!

 

[murphy1244]

:welcome: You need to go from the ground up into your barn

 

[MarkV]

Welcome! You would generally do that underground. Have you already poured a slab? I am surprised a plumber would stub in a bath and not take a supply into account.

MarkV

 

[murphy1244]

Welcome! You would generally do that underground. Have you already poured a slab? I am surprised a plumber would stub in a bath and not take a supply into account.

MarkV

Yea, that makes no sense at all. Is there a sewer hook up?

 

[srs]

Mac D, what I did is put my water line (the type used to bring water from the well to the house, black in color) inside PVC deep enough to keep it from freezing, also in PVC to protect it from rocks, etc. I ran the PVC to a small closet next to my laundry tub and bathroom (sink & toilet). I insulated the room really good. Also since I don't have heat in the outbuilding right now I keep a small light on (60 watts) to allow the room to stay above freezing. I'm not sure I really need the light but I feel it gives me a level of freeze protection. You can see it here with the cut off valve. This picture does not show the finish closet but you get the ideal, and as you can see the PVC was put in prior to the concrete pour.

 

[Mac D]

Sorry...I guess I should have supplied more info. I had him stub for the drain and toilet drain because I was thinking about doing this in the future. We intend to put SEPTIC out there (the line is run out the back of the slab already) and we simply put the pipe in to make sure we had it done when the slab was poured. I can handle the other light plumbing work. I just am worried about coming out of the ground once I bring the pipe over to the new barn and then up.....going into the new barn and making it a clean installation.

 

[Mac D]

.....and I hate cutting a hole in that new steel siding!

 

[Diamondpilot]

You bring it up through the floor before pouring the slab away from tge outside wall so it will not freeze.

Chris

 

[Western]

Mac, I'm going to throw my thoughts on your situation too The guys are right, this should have been done (supply line) when the other (wastes/grey) water piping was done, prior to the cement pour. Would have been SOOO much easier.

I see you have 3 choices, go the way your describing, cut out the slab and snake the supply line in and re-pour that small cut out, or run from your existing line, underground to the outside wall of your B/room and go through there.

If the metal is "R" panel. there should be a concrete "lip" poured around the edge to allow the metal to sit on a "shelf" so to speak, this closes off the bottom to vermin. If this is the type panels you have, you may be able to remove the screws from one panel, gently pry the loose end out and inch or 2, then (after marking the spot) hammer drill/jackhammer the ledge off enough to get in there.

I have seen water lines ran into buildings, when it was an afterthought as is yours, where they go through the wall, then box the piping in a nice cedar or other covering and fill with insulation. Nothing you'd want on a $100k+ home, but will get it done on a shop or outbuilding.

I knew a guy that used a garden hose in the summer to run a small bath in his shop, in the winter he just rolled up the hose and drained everything, wasn't "purdy" but it was just his outbuilding (he bought the place already constructed.)

I know one thing pretty sure, after you figure this out, you will make sure your supply line is the 1st thing that goes in a new slab:laughing:

OH, :welcome: to TBN!!!!!!!

 

[radioman]

I'd bury the water line below frost line to prevent it from freezing. I would NOT cut into the metal siding to bring in pipee. I would dig a standing hole right next to your building where you want water to go in and drill a hole in the concrete floor inside right next to the wall for water line to come up.You only need to dig about 6 inches or so under the concrete floor for water line. Be sure you drill a hole double size of water line so you can put water line inside a pipe so it has exposed air to keep pipe from freezing inside the building. backfill it all in and you are all set.

 

[paulharvey]

In the past we have used a 2" whole saw to cut a nice over sized hole to run water threw metal panels. You can put some pipe insulation on it for cold protection and an eschustion (spelling?) At the metal panel to trim it out. We used silicon caulk to bug,ant proof the hole.

 

[Swiftriver]

Go to your local tool rental shop and rent a hammer drill and a core bit and bring your water line up through the floor.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I think radioman has the best instructions and a concrete core drill would be the neatest way to run the pipe thru the concrete, but you could just bust the hole with a cheap Walmart air chipping gun (assuming you have a compressor)especially if the concrete is fairly new since it wont be completely hardened like 50 year old stuff. You just have to dig a hole outside large enough to reach back under the slab and glue a 90 ell on the vertical riser up thru the floor. If you have a backhoe, 5 minutes, if have to hand dig the trench a bit more time but still doable with 10 feet of ditch to dig especially if you're young and strong. 3/4" PVC with some of the foam insulation on it would work perfectly.

 

[Qapla]

Looks like you are in Alabama. What is your ground like? What size water line? How far in the building do want to run it?

If you are running a 1" or 3/4" line it should be fairly simple to run this under the slab into the building. It will take some accurate measuring and a little work but it is doable.

Select the location where you want the line to come up into the slab. The closer to the edge of the building without being where the footer is the better.

Make a hole in the slab only as large as needed. You can core drill it if you have or can rent the tools or you can cut a hole with a saw that has the proper blade. Of course a cut hole will be more square, but it can be large enough to put your hands into.

Dig the dirt out of the hole deeper than what the pipe depth should be, about 6"-8" deeper then the slab - straight down, do not undermine the slab.

From the outside dig a trench from the building straight out at 90 degrees so that it lines up with the hole inside. Make it about 2" deeper then the slab. Make sure the bottom of the trench is level. Using a pipe that is large enough for the water line to pass through as a sleeve. If you are using a 3/4" waterline you will need 1 1/4" schedule 40 PVC or 1" 'thin-wall' PVC - irrigation pipe (they sell it in Home Depot and Lowes)

With a hammer (a "mini-sledge" works good) tap the sleeve pipe under the slab, stopping after a few inches, pulling the sleeve out and shaking the dirt out. You will have to tap and pull several times. The sleeve should arrive in the inside hole with space above and below it in the hole you made. If you measure the distance you need to go before you start tapping, you will know when you should be there.

Cut the sleeve or pull it back so that the end inside the building is just at the edge of the hole. (This is for PVC) Put you waterline through it and go inside and glue a 90 on the end of the pipe. You will find that if you aim the 90 down it will keep it clean while you glue it on, then rotate it so it faces up. Glue a piece into the 90 longer then you need - you can cut it off later.

Now, go outside and run the pipe to the source however deep you need it to stay below a freeze line if you have one - we don;t have to worry about that here. After you connect the line to the source, flush it with water before you finish connecting it inside to clear any dirt out that may have gotten in it.

Fill and pack the dirt back into the hole. If you don't want the dirt hole in the slab, fill it with "redi-mix/quick-crete" and smooth it out. If you make the hole only as large as you need it to work, it will only take one bag.

If you need to go a distance under the slab you can always "jet" the sleeve or waterline under the slab. I would not dig or tunnel under the slab because the more dirt you pull out from under the slab, the weaker that spot/area will be since you will not be able to pack the dirt back in as tight as it was.

 

[Mac D]

OK guys...thanks for all of the responses. Would have been nice had I thought about the supply line but was more concerned w/ other things and at LEAST I got the drains in. :laughing:

I think what I'll do is go the easy route since I'm in AL and that is run the line over underground, up into an insulated box and inside the insulated building. This is something that won't be used much...was just a 'nice to have'. Hey, I'm thrilled to just have the pole barn that is enclosed an insulated! At least now I have fighting chance against dirt dobbers, rust and other things!

Thanks all.....enjoy your weekend. I'm going to knock off early and see if the pole barn is finished!

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I also vote for drilling down thru the slab, near the building edge, dig a hole outside, and put a pipe in to run the water line thru.
I never considered adding water or heat to my pole barn, but I did stub in 3 electrical conduits, which I could use 1 for water if I wanted.