Educate me on beefing up the FEL bucket to add hooks

[Teikas Dad]

I want to add a couple weld on chain hooks to my B3200 bucket. It's a 60 inch wide standard Kubota bucket.

From everything I've learned on the forum, I need to (or at least I should) reinforce the top lip of the bucket to keep from making my bucket smile. I know about not mounting the hooks outside the arms so I plan on putting them inline with the two loader arms. I'll probably add a slip hook in the center.

This is where I need your advice. I'm planning on reinforcing the bucket with a 3X3 section of angle. But, am I better off to put the angle on the front of the bucket?

Or, would it be stronger on the back of the bucket? Or, doesn't it matter?

The piece of angle I used for the photos is a 2X2, I just wanted to illustrate what I was asking about. If I put the 3X3 on the rear I plan on welding it to the top of the lip then to the back of the body of the bucket. I figured this would essentially make the top section of the bucket a square tube. Then I'll weld the hooks on top of the 3X3.

If I weld the 3X3 to the body of the bucket as well as the top of the bucket, would I still need to go the entire width of the bucket? If I do then I have to cut off the bucket level indicator and weld it back on later. Or, would it be strong enough if I went 6 inches or so past the arm brackets on the bucket?

Next question is on welding the 3X3 to the bucket lip and body. Would stitch welding be strong enough or should I seam weld the whole thing? I'm just worried about a seam weld possibly distorting the bucket.

The other thing I want to do is weld on a forged "D" ring on the back of the bucket.

The one I have will fit on the angle that's welded between the loader arms. But, is there any benefit to welding the D ring to a separate piece of angle that then gets welded to the angle on the back of the bucket? Essentially I would be doubling the thickness of the angle piece on the back of the bucket, but I didn't know if I should (or need to) reinforce that or not. The 2X2 angle fits perfectly over the angle that's on the back of the bucket already. I'd weld it centered to the underside of the angle so I could use the bucket for lifting from the back side.

 

[Shield Arc]

I think I'd go with the second picture, angle iron out front. Yes you want to skip weld it, so you don't warped the bucket! Before painting I would use some chalking between the welds, and ends so you don't have to worry about water getting under the angle iron. I really like the idea of using angle iron, better than a double plate under the hooks or D-rings. Pickup more surface with the angle iron.:thumbsup:

 

[Willl]

Interesting looking tooth bar ya got there.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Not saying it wouldn't work, but I have never seen any one weld anything to the back of the bucket where you picture your D rings. It looks like it would be a real bear to get behind or under the FEL to hook anything on to the d ring. Most folks just tip their bucket to full down tilt and use the hooks or put d rings on the angle reinforcements along with the chain hooks. I suppose you would be getting a bit more lift from the back of the bucket but it would be so much harder and somewhat dangerous to hook you lift straps

 

[chim]

Here's a pic of the "hooks" I've used on two tractors. This is the bucket of the B7500 I had. The L3200 sports very similar angles. They work nice because all you need to do is drape the chain into the slots and they hold it at any link. If using a longer than needed chain, it's simple to drop the excess into the slots to keep ut out of the way

 

[Ductape]

There are a few pics of my B3030 bucket here......

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/140902-adapting-skidsteer-qa-my-kubota-3.html

Though I used flat stock, I butted my SSQA to it to form an angle. If it were me, I'd put the angle to the rear of the bucket, but thats mostly because I think it would look better. I seam welded mine, but did it in stitches (and connected them after they cooled) to not distort the bucket. I also drilled some holes and plug welded them on the top of the bucket, though it is just overkill since our loaders only lift around a thousand pounds.

I'll also agree that putting the D ring on the back will not make it terribly useful. Not just potentially dangerous hooking things to it with the bucket up, but you will find that when lifting from the back of the bucket.... whatever you are lifting will be resting against, or swinging into your grille guard.

I would consider attaching some type of 2" hitch reciever tube in the center. This will leave you virtually unlimited to what you can add. Anything from a short boom pole to a ball mount for moving trailers around. That is probably where I'd use the D ring.... just weld it to some 2 x 2 tubing to fit into the reciever. I would certainly have done this on my bucket if I hadn't already made a seperate attachment for lifting and moving trailers.

I also wouldn't go outside of the center of the loader arms on your hooks.

 

[srs]

Teikas Dad, here is how I beefed up the bucket on my B3030. I did not install the bucket hooks. I paid Messicks $50 when I purchased the tractor from them to have them weld the slip hooks on. They put them on the edges! I used a piece of angle and mounted it like your third picture. It was just long enough to touch the back of the bucket where I (if you look close) spaced the welds out. I then added the center receiver and the two slip hooks on each side of the receiver. I feel it is quite strong now. See the attached pictures.

 

[Chilly807]

I have a hook welded on the "heel" of the bucket, on the center line where you indicated the D ring going. It's handy if you have the bucket loaded with tools and don't want to remove everything before you lift something. Awkward hooking the chain, but other than that it's fine.

I reinforced the upper bucket lip by welding a piece of flat bar between the back of the lip and the bucket as a stiffener. Nothing's bent yet. I agree to weld your outer hooks in line with the loader arms. I welded mine near the outer edges of the bucket, which isn't ideal. Hind sight really IS 20-20. The picture doesn't show the center hook on the top lip and the reinforcement, it wasn't done when this was taken.



Sean

 

[magicheater]

I have a hook welded on the "heel" of the bucket, on the center line where you indicated the D ring going. It's handy if you have the bucket loaded with tools and don't want to remove everything before you lift something. Awkward hooking the chain, but other than that it's fine.
View attachment 301074Sean

Now that is a very intelligent idea! :thumbsup:

 

[Steve in MT]

I really didnt want to weld on my new bucket so I made mine bolt on. Just another idea to play around with.
Steve

 

[Reyer Farms]

I welded mine to the top with no extra plate or angle. My bucket has a rectangle tube at the top, so I just welded there. As I read your post and thoughts about the d rings, I had a thought. What would be wrong with welding them on the inside of the bucket? That may not be appealing for you but it would be more functional than having them on the back.



I cut off one of the ears on the hook and held hook against front edge and made vertical weld. While it was hot I bent the remaining ear over on top of bucket, and welded. I don't know what it's rated for but I know it is good for 1400 lbs at least.

 

[jerrybob]

Interesting looking tooth bar ya got there.

That's a Pirranna Tooth Bar from BX Expanded. I just ordered one for my small Yanmar 186D. It will be here next week. Great for digging and clearing.

 

[Mercmaniac]

I think I'd go with the second picture, angle iron out front. Yes you want to skip weld it, so you don't warped the bucket! Before painting I would use some chalking between the welds, and ends so you don't have to worry about water getting under the angle iron. I really like the idea of using angle iron, better than a double plate under the hooks or D-rings. Pickup more surface with the angle iron.:thumbsup:

What is this "chalking"?

 

[Shield Arc]

What is this "chalking"?

Sorry about that, should have been caulking! Sometimes my fingers are faster than my mind.

 

[Chilly807]

Now that is a very intelligent idea! :thumbsup:

Thanks! We do a lot of fence repair with the tractor, so the bucket is usually full of tools. Using the FEL to pull old fence posts is easier than doing it by hand.

New pics of the hooks, the reinforcing plate I added was 3/8 by 3", I think. Enough to hold the top lip from folding forward under load. I screwed up when I welded them in place by not leaving enough space to get a chain in past the snow screen I have on in the winter. I don't use the FEL much for lifting in the winter anyway, and the heel hook is still available. If I had to I could chain around the screen, too.

You don't need a lot of reinforcement, these small loaders won't generate enough force to bend things too badly as long as the basic structure is stiffened a bit. At least the LA463 won't, it has fairly thick steel in relation to the lift force it has. My reinforcing plate could have been 3/16 plate with good results, it has lots of strength in tension which is the situation here.

How come nobody wants to weld on their buckets?? I do like the stepped hook plates Steve used though, nice looking job.




Sean

 

[pedalstomper78]

I bought one of the Tractor Help bolt on hooks for my Case. It puts a plate above and below the loader so you don't have to worry about bolts pulling through or anything like that. If you want more strength, I would just suggest using a bigger plate on the bottom.

 

[Mercmaniac]

Sorry about that, should have been caulking! Sometimes my fingers are faster than my mind.

LOL, I thought that is what you meant, but also thought that maybe this is something I don't know about. I have been using JB weld for sealing up.

 

[Shield Arc]

LOL, I thought that is what you meant, but also thought that maybe this is something I don't know about. I have been using JB weld for sealing up.

Yeah happens all the time with me, must be my age. My mind is thinking of one thing and my fingers are thinking of something else!

 

[Teikas Dad]

Thanks guys, I really appreciate all the input.

So far I've determined that:

I want to stitch/skip weld the angle to the bucket so I don't warp anything.

Keep the hooks even with the loader arms, not to the outside.

The D ring on the lower back of the bucket may or may not be a good idea. I was thinking of doing that based on other threads that I read about trying to keep the load closer to the tractor for better lift. I'll have to ponder that idea to see if I really want to go that route or not.

I'm still up in the air regarding putting the angle on the front edge of the bucket lip or behind it. I understand about it looking better on the back side, but I'm more concerned with strength rather than looks. I'm OCD about doing stuff like this anyway so where ever I mount it, it's going to look good.

I've got a MIG welder, so I don't need or want the bolt on hooks...just another bolt that Mr. Murphy will loosen at an inopportune moment, like when I've got something a couple feet up in the air. I'd rather weld it and not have to worry about it coming loose.

So I guess at this point I'm looking for guidance as to which position (front mount or back mount) is going to give me the most strength with the angle steel, or doesn't it matter strength wise because the angle steel welded to the bucket is stronger than what the loader can lift regardless of position? Also, do I need to run the angle all the way from one side to the other side of the bucket or would it be sufficient to extend it past the loader arms?

By the way, the toothbar is a Piranha bar. I researched the various styles available for toothbars and for the cost vs what I could find for user reviews, the Piranha came out on top. One thing I was really surprised about when I got it, besides being heavy it's SHARP on the edges. If you get one wear gloves when you mount it.

 

[Shield Arc]

I would put the angle on the front of the bucket. Reason being, when the chain, or wire rope choker wraps over the heel of the angle less chance on bending it. If the toe of the angle iron is out front it will bend in time. I think I'd run the angle iron out all the way to the edge of the bucket.