ededic
Gold Member
Thanks. I get a cm detector for the cab.
Heat for UTV's with cabs
- Thread starter pane056
- Start date
- Views: 20228
Thanks. I get a cm detector for the cab.
GolfAddict
Veteran Member
Sounds pretty interesting. Was this something you purchased? If so, can you tell us what it is and where you found it?
Hello;
Looks like finally I'm zeroing in on an electric heater. Someone directed me to the DC Termal site. I found one
12 volts, 50 amp and 10,???? btu #SD 12000 50. Available ducted or direct. I understand the space under the front bench seat is empty. Was thinking about using the ducted model and cutting holes in the front panel. The heater has 3 outlets.
One on the front and one on each side. Run a duct to each end of the seat and the front out the front center.
I'll do a temporary hook up to test the heater before I start the install. Who know's maybe a temporary hook up will take us to spring so I can do the install in nicer temps. Right now it's 12 below.
thanks, nicholas
Looks like finally I'm zeroing in on an electric heater. Someone directed me to the DC Termal site. I found one
12 volts, 50 amp and 10,???? btu #SD 12000 50. Available ducted or direct. I understand the space under the front bench seat is empty. Was thinking about using the ducted model and cutting holes in the front panel. The heater has 3 outlets.
One on the front and one on each side. Run a duct to each end of the seat and the front out the front center.
I'll do a temporary hook up to test the heater before I start the install. Who know's maybe a temporary hook up will take us to spring so I can do the install in nicer temps. Right now it's 12 below.
thanks, nicholas
jejeosborne
Veteran Member
The numbers to me are not adding up. 600 watts only equals about 2000 BTU/hr. which is 1/5 of what you quoted. That is going to take some #6 wire to power that thing with this low of voltage. It will be equivalent to those small cube ceramic heaters on the low setting. Just wanted to warn you that something doesn't look correct but I am getting tired.
ptgdigger
Silver Member
50 amps @ 12V is 600 watts , 600 watts can make about 2049 BTU, I looked at their specs and it does say 10,020btu, Their math is WRONG , to get 10,000btu of heat you need 3000 watts of electricity, at 12v it takes 250 amps to make 3000 watts !! The one thing about electric resistance heating is it is easy to calculate out because it is all fixed formulas , there are no magical more efficient elements they can use, the numbers either work or they don't.
Electrical resistance heating simply doesn't work out at 12v, you will need all your horsepower to generate electricity, about all those heaters are capable of is getting you defrosted and on the way before the engine warms up and the real heat is ready. Unless that cab is super tight and very well insulated I doubt you would notice if that 600 watt heater was running or not at -12f .
Even if it were practical does any UTV really have 50A continuous to spare ? That would really surprise me.
Ray
Electrical resistance heating simply doesn't work out at 12v, you will need all your horsepower to generate electricity, about all those heaters are capable of is getting you defrosted and on the way before the engine warms up and the real heat is ready. Unless that cab is super tight and very well insulated I doubt you would notice if that 600 watt heater was running or not at -12f .
Even if it were practical does any UTV really have 50A continuous to spare ? That would really surprise me.
Ray
jejeosborne
Veteran Member
That is what I thought. Like I said I am tired today so glad you backed up my math. His alternator says 75 amps at 6000 rpms. I wonder what it makes at 1500 because that is probably where it will average out running. 6000 is high. I predict a dead battery after 15 minutes of run time.
Hello;
Boy am I glad this forum exists. Brings such a wealth of knowledge together. I'm going to see if I can figure out how to send the math post to DC Thermal and see what they say.
Regarging my alternator output. I thought the advantage to an alterenator over a generator was that it's output would remain constant regardless of the RPM. Looks like I was wrong again.
Who knows? I just may end up with a coolant heater afterall. But for sure I won't deal with that until spring.
Thanka a whole bunch, nicholas
Boy am I glad this forum exists. Brings such a wealth of knowledge together. I'm going to see if I can figure out how to send the math post to DC Thermal and see what they say.
Regarging my alternator output. I thought the advantage to an alterenator over a generator was that it's output would remain constant regardless of the RPM. Looks like I was wrong again.
Who knows? I just may end up with a coolant heater afterall. But for sure I won't deal with that until spring.
Thanka a whole bunch, nicholas
jejeosborne
Veteran Member
Interested in what the manufacturer says about their claim. Not sure about your alternator output levels at low rpms but find it interesting they quoted a specific rpm with the rating so I could only imagine a lower value.
hello;
I sent them all of the figures you used and they promptly sent an explaination which satisfied me. Give me your email address and I'll forward it to you.
As for the bsttery and alternator specs I got those out of the JD owners manual. They also use the 75 amp figure in all of their literature.
They said if I don't like it a return is no problem. Also that they have put many in Kabota's
What is GTX electrical wire?
thanks, nicholas
I sent them all of the figures you used and they promptly sent an explaination which satisfied me. Give me your email address and I'll forward it to you.
As for the bsttery and alternator specs I got those out of the JD owners manual. They also use the 75 amp figure in all of their literature.
They said if I don't like it a return is no problem. Also that they have put many in Kabota's
What is GTX electrical wire?
thanks, nicholas
ptgdigger
Silver Member
Feel free to send it, email is my TBN username @comcast.net , all lower case. I suspect they're using some kind of Quartz unobtanium infrared element and are using the close proximity in the cab to their advantage keeping the infrared aimed at the occupants so it "feels" warmer and not heating the air, but feeling warmer won't keep the windows de-fogged/frosted and if their using 600 watts of power they are making ~2050 real btu and their marketing voodoo will wear real thin at -12f.
Believe me when I say if they figured out how to make 10,000 btu hr using 600 watts they wouldn't have time to be making cab heaters between the Nobel prize acceptance and the speaking engagements.
Ray
Believe me when I say if they figured out how to make 10,000 btu hr using 600 watts they wouldn't have time to be making cab heaters between the Nobel prize acceptance and the speaking engagements.
Ray
jejeosborne
Veteran Member
Funny how they can change the conversion factor like that. I don't think I would trust the dimensions either. I think their yard stick is 4 inches long.
Ptgdigger, can you not cut and paste the response?
jejeosborne
Veteran Member
My bad, I had you mixed up there for a second with ptgdigger. Try highlighting the text from the response by holding left mouse button down and dragging across text to be highlighted. Then right click within the highlighted area and chose copy. After that, go into your TBN post and right click again. Select paste and that text should magically appear.
GolfAddict
Veteran Member
I was hoping Nicholas was on to something until I saw all the math formula posts.
I have an RTV 500 with a heater plumbed into the coolant. The hoses run up into the front, and the heater is mounted under the hood up there, and the three speed fan on the heater blows the air into the cab area. Unfortunately, when it's very cold at all, it doesn't even make much of a hand warmer. If you stick your hand down directly in the air flow it's somewhat warm, certainly not hot.
The RTV 500 cab has no insulation. Watching this thread, I was wondering if adding an electric heater would help. But now I'm wondering if it's kind of fighting a loosing battle to try to get the thing comfortably warm on cold days...
I have an RTV 500 with a heater plumbed into the coolant. The hoses run up into the front, and the heater is mounted under the hood up there, and the three speed fan on the heater blows the air into the cab area. Unfortunately, when it's very cold at all, it doesn't even make much of a hand warmer. If you stick your hand down directly in the air flow it's somewhat warm, certainly not hot.
The RTV 500 cab has no insulation. Watching this thread, I was wondering if adding an electric heater would help. But now I'm wondering if it's kind of fighting a loosing battle to try to get the thing comfortably warm on cold days...
jejeosborne
Veteran Member
Are the hoses and heat exchanger box insulated? If not, try that. Also, what condition is your thermostat in? Can you put in a warmer one? After that, I would look into bypassing your radiator using valves for the cold days. Finally, I would seal any air leaks, and look into insulating the cab with spray foam or something. None of these should cost much money.
Hello;
Mr golf addict; Hang in for awhile. I'm going to jump off the cliff and by an electric heater. They asssure me I can return it for full refund. When I get it I will do a temporary hook up and give her a test run. I will then report back here with The Good, The Bad and The Ugly.
They offer tons of various heaters and accessories so I have to think they are doing something right.
Check it out at DCThermal. I have asked them no less then 20 questions and all the answers impressed me as being totally honest.
thanks, nicholas
Mr golf addict; Hang in for awhile. I'm going to jump off the cliff and by an electric heater. They asssure me I can return it for full refund. When I get it I will do a temporary hook up and give her a test run. I will then report back here with The Good, The Bad and The Ugly.
They offer tons of various heaters and accessories so I have to think they are doing something right.
Check it out at DCThermal. I have asked them no less then 20 questions and all the answers impressed me as being totally honest.
thanks, nicholas
GolfAddict
Veteran Member
I'll be very interested in what you find out! Please keep us posted.
In the meantime, I'm going to try some of what jejeosborne suggested. I checked, and there is no insulation on the heater hoses from back at the engine up to where the heater core is. They are just covered in that black plastic conduit-like stuff. There is no insulation at the heater either, keeping any heat contained to only going to the cab. I'm going to noodle a bit on how I might add some to the hoses and under the hood. I should also call the dealer and find out if there are different thermostats that would make the coolant warmer this time of year...
amigauser
Veteran Member
I am also interested as I have a RTV500 and wondered how well an electric heater would work.
Here is a site I found via Google search that has lots of options.
12 Volt Heater, 12 Volt Heaters, 12 Volt Car Heaters, 12v Heaters, Portable Heater
Here is a site I found via Google search that has lots of options.
12 Volt Heater, 12 Volt Heaters, 12 Volt Car Heaters, 12v Heaters, Portable Heater
ptgdigger
Silver Member
The very first thing I would try is blocking off part or all of the radiator with some cardboard , of course you have to watch for overheating , especially in 6 weeks or so when the temps start to get a bit nicer.
Ray
