Buying Advice Minimum $$ investment to mow 3 ac of pasture

[GGB]

I'll agree with the previous suggestions to try to find a decent Ford tractor with a brush mower. If your pasture is rough, you want to have a tractor with large tires to smooth out the ride. At least you will if you are my age!

But let me offer another point: Depending on where you are located, if your area has been in a drought like a large part of the country, there may be a lot of folks more than willing to cut 3 acres for the bales. Unless the fellow who cut your pasture last year has said that it's not worth his time, you might be surprised to find out that he needs the bales. And if he has said that he doesn't want to put up the hay, there may be plenty of others who would jump at the chance to do it.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

GGB

 

[MHarryE]

International 300 utility tractor, 34 HP, see good ones going for $2,500. Used rotary cutter less than a thou. You say pasture land but your neighbor cut it for hay last year. Around here last summer (dry) we got about 3 4' x 5' round bales per acre selling for around $45 per bale. I checked Kansas City prices when I was there and the same bales were going for $125. So your neighbor who you thought might have been losing money doing you a favor just might have been making a little.

 

[mjncad]

Welcome to TBN Steamtrain.

I see you're in Idaho and I suggest you check http://www.tractorhouse.com/ and Used Farm & Agricultural Equipment - John Deere MachineFinder and after you search those and other websites you'll probably find out that once you get west of Kansas that finding used equipment is not so easy as it is for the boys in the Midwest and East Coast. So don't be surprised if you have to rethink your needs, budget, etc and consider new to get what you need and want. As others have suggested, check into the 0% APR deals that may be offered by Deere, Kubota, and others.

 

[flusher]

Some of the older tractors listed below my avatar (to the left of this post) would work.

1964 MF135 diesel-cost $3600 in Jul06-45 hp engine, 35 hp pto is probably overkill for 3 acres

1951 Farmall Super A-cost $1300 in 2008- 18 hp gas engine, 15 hp pto with 3pt hitch would work with a 4-ft wide brush hog (aka bush hog, slasher, shredder) that would cost you about $600 new.

1949 Deere B-cost $1750 last year-about 27 hp gas engine, 23 hp pto with a 4-ft wide brush hog (tag along type attached to the drawbar). This B has rear end hydraulics and the rockshaft that would accommodate a 3-pt hitch (about $700 new off eBay including delivery) so you could use the 3pt hitch version of the brush hog.

1945 Oliver 60 -$2250 two years ago-about 24 hp gas engine, 21 hp pto.

Of course, there's always the venerable Ford 8N (1948-mid 1950s, 27 hp engine, 23 hp pto) that you can find everywhere for a few thousand bucks.

These old gassers are easy to work on and parts are available on the Internet. With a $6K budget you're talking older tractors which means that you'll need to be able to do some repair work (which is a lot of the fun in owning older tractors).

Good luck.

 

[steamtrain]

Thanks for the ideas! Now more questions...

I like the idea of smoothing out the pasture, but it is flood irrigated via gated pipe, so that isn't an option, correct?

I should add a couple details... I have an additional four or so acres of smoother pasture that I have been mowing with an *old* JD R72. (yeah, it takes a while) I didn't mention it because I figured anything that would do the rough pasture would do the smooth also, but there are a lot of enclosed areas and obstacles. That would be dealt with much more efficiently with an under mount mower, wouldn't it? Is the general consensus that ANY under mount mower is inadequate for a rough pasture? Maybe I should try to post a picture of it. Rough is a relative term.

So if I go with an old Ford or MF, how do know whether I am getting a solid machine or a dog that is past it's expiration date? I am not tied to a budget other than common sense. As was mentioned earlier, having someone mow it a couple times a year is too cheap, simple, and easy not to consider. (it's just not as fun) There is some number above which a tractor would cost more than the work is worth. I am not opposed to spending more, but it needs to be accounted for in the "toy" column and not the tool column. Part of my problem is figuring out what that number is...

 

[steamtrain]

Would this size tractor (for example) be adequate for this pasture? (this one is $7,500, but I am not so much concerned with whether it's a good deal but whether it's enough machine)

 

[LBrown59]

Something like one of these.

 

[wcampbell47]

I have a six year old Kubota B7510 with FEL that I would take $7,000 for. 800 hours on the meter. I can pickup a used 4 ft shredder for $300. Just saying that if I was of a mind to sell that is what I would be asking. The 7510 has 21 hp, 17 hp PTO. Just saying if I was of a mind to sell this is what i would ask.

 

[Bigfoot62]

. . . As was mentioned earlier, having someone mow it a couple times a year is too cheap, simple, and easy not to consider. (it's just not as fun) There is some number above which a tractor would cost more than the work is worth. I am not opposed to spending more, but it needs to be accounted for in the "toy" column and not the tool column. Part of my problem is figuring out what that number is...

OK, now we know how to help you. (help you spend your money, that is)
So, you don't really want to know the minimum investment to mow 3 acres. What you want is, someone to justify your purchase of a new toy, right? :laughing:
Question: Are you just trying to convince yourself, or your wife?

Allright, I'll get serious. (for a minute or two anyway)
As many have suggested, a Ford 2000, 3000, or 2600, 3600 would be my pick. The 2x series will handle a 5' bushhog and the 3x will easily handle a 6'. If the ground is smooth enough, a 6' finish mower will cut closer, (more like a lawn mower) but it can't handle small trees and bushes like the bushhog.
As far as how to tell if the tractor is worth taking home, just a few basics:
Does it crank up easily (cold) and idle smoothly?
Any unusual smoke? (a brief puff of smoke immediately upon starting is normal, but the exhaust should clear up quickly) Also look at the crankcase ventilation blow-by. (slobber tube) Some blow-by is normal for a high-compression diesel engine. Excessive blow-by indicates a worn engine.
I wouldn't buy a tractor that I couldn't try out first. Depress the clutch pedal completely. Engage the PTO. Does it shift without grinding? Same for transmission. Gear grinding may indicate a worn-out clutch. With a bushhog, finish mower, tiller, etc, on the tractor worth the 3 pt hitch. Does the hitch raise smoothly and stay up? If it's really slow coming up, or leaks down, you could be looking at repairs to the hydraulic system.
The drivetrain and hydraulic system are the most expensive components. Other things can cost too. (I've discovered parts for 18 wheelers, motorcycles, or tractors cost WAY more than they should) You'll also want to look at the tires. (a rear tire for a 3000 will run $500 or more) Check for leaking fluids. (oil, hyd, coolant, fuel) Do the brakes work? (that's important too)

If you can, take someone with you that has experience with tractors. Even if you had to give a mechanic a Frankin, it might save you $ down the road.
As with buying ANYTHING used, it's still a roll of the dice. Kind of like getting married. You never really know what she's gonna be like till you bring her home.

Or, you can skip all of the guesswork and just buy a new tractor. And, trade it in before the warranty runs out.

 

[wcampbell47]

Thanks for the ideas! Now more questions...

I like the idea of smoothing out the pasture, but it is flood irrigated via gated pipe, so that isn't an option, correct?

I should add a couple details... I have an additional four or so acres of smoother pasture that I have been mowing with an *old* JD R72. (yeah, it takes a while) I didn't mention it because I figured anything that would do the rough pasture would do the smooth also, but there are a lot of enclosed areas and obstacles. That would be dealt with much more efficiently with an under mount mower, wouldn't it? Is the general consensus that ANY under mount mower is inadequate for a rough pasture? Maybe I should try to post a picture of it. Rough is a relative term.

...

Ok you have got 4 smooth acres with enclosures and obstacles that could be problematic with a 3 pt mounted mower and 3 acres of rough that would be problematic for a mid mount mower. I do prefer the mid mount for areas with trees and obstacles as it operates more like a lawn tractor. While the mid mount *may* mow the rough you could prematurely lessen the life of the implement by using it in such rough areas. *Ideally* a B series of say around 30 hp with a mid mount with a detachable FEL would be a nice solution to the smooth 4 acre area. Then switch off to a 3 pt for the 3 acre rough area. Try to look down the road at future projects and buy something that will do those. It is going to be more expensive to go larger later than to just buy more (not too much) now. I went through that last year.

 

[yelbike]

I think Bigfoot gave you the best advice you can get.

OK, now we know how to help you. (help you spend your money, that is)
So, you don't really want to know the minimum investment to mow 3 acres. What you want is, someone to justify your purchase of a new toy, right? :laughing:
Question: Are you just trying to convince yourself, or your wife?

Allright, I'll get serious. (for a minute or two anyway)
As many have suggested, a Ford 2000, 3000, or 2600, 3600 would be my pick. The 2x series will handle a 5' bushhog and the 3x will easily handle a 6'. If the ground is smooth enough, a 6' finish mower will cut closer, (more like a lawn mower) but it can't handle small trees and bushes like the bushhog.
As far as how to tell if the tractor is worth taking home, just a few basics:
Does it crank up easily (cold) and idle smoothly?
Any unusual smoke? (a brief puff of smoke immediately upon starting is normal, but the exhaust should clear up quickly) Also look at the crankcase ventilation blow-by. (slobber tube) Some blow-by is normal for a high-compression diesel engine. Excessive blow-by indicates a worn engine.
I wouldn't buy a tractor that I couldn't try out first. Depress the clutch pedal completely. Engage the PTO. Does it shift without grinding? Same for transmission. Gear grinding may indicate a worn-out clutch. With a bushhog, finish mower, tiller, etc, on the tractor worth the 3 pt hitch. Does the hitch raise smoothly and stay up? If it's really slow coming up, or leaks down, you could be looking at repairs to the hydraulic system.
The drivetrain and hydraulic system are the most expensive components. Other things can cost too. (I've discovered parts for 18 wheelers, motorcycles, or tractors cost WAY more than they should) You'll also want to look at the tires. (a rear tire for a 3000 will run $500 or more) Check for leaking fluids. (oil, hyd, coolant, fuel) Do the brakes work? (that's important too)

If you can, take someone with you that has experience with tractors. Even if you had to give a mechanic a Frankin, it might save you $ down the road.
As with buying ANYTHING used, it's still a roll of the dice. Kind of like getting married. You never really know what she's gonna be like till you bring her home.

Or, you can skip all of the guesswork and just buy a new tractor. And, trade it in before the warranty runs out.

 

[yelbike]

I think your question about damaging a mid mount mower (mmm) on rough terrain can be summed up like this. A mmm craftsmen type mower will be destroyed before the warranty is up. A mmm on a Kubota type machine are far superior to the craftsmen(not even the same league). the Kubota type mmm will stand up but its not the best either. A 3ph mower will be best. Bush hog is the right machine for rough areas. From my experience, I used a Farm king rear discharge rear mount 3pth mower to recover about 8 acres of coarse grass. It wasn't a pasture but not far from it either. After 2-3 years the grass was much nicer and thinner. I was able to spread dirt in the rough areas and now I use a zero turn mower. I don't know that's where you want to go. I think a rear finish mower will take care of your smooth and rough area. Keep in mind anything that's 3 ph mounted will not be nimble.

 

[jenkinsph]

Would this size tractor (for example) be adequate for this pasture? (this one is $7,500, but I am not so much concerned with whether it's a good deal but whether it's enough machine)

View attachment 296387

View attachment 296386

I think that Kubota would be a poor choice for the field in the picture. Not enough ground clearance, get something with taller wheels, gear would be fine since it is open field mowing. Something like a Deere 790 comes to mind or similar Kubota, Massey or Ford. I mention the Deere 790 only because I am familiar with Deere models more than the other brands, these were cheap and simple tractors.

 

[D7E]

That field looks like it was potato rows that never got reworked and just grew back with wild grass . You might have a problem getting any one to cut that , I'd want to rip that up and level it .

 

[jenkinsph]

That field looks like it was potato rows that never got reworked and just grew back with wild grass . You might have a problem getting any one to cut that , I'd want to rip that up and level it .

I was wondering about that too.
If it were to be smoothed with a land plane then the Kubota would work. I have never been a fan of flooding fields as it seems to be a waste of alot of water. I would say I am not familiar enough with the climate in this locale to pass judgement but it is very likely the OP could smooth this up and mow afterwards with just about anything.

 

[94BULLITT]

That field looks like it was potato rows that never got reworked and just grew back with wild grass . You might have a problem getting any one to cut that , I'd want to rip that up and level it .

That it what I was going to say. No need to beat a tractor or operator to death running over that.

 

[Soundguy]

mid mount finish mowers are harder to find for many machines.. though you might find a farmall with a IH belly mower. I have a cub with one.. a 44"'er

finish mowers will get beat up by rough pasture.

I'd simply get a 5' mower and just not tear around like speed racer when mowing the first pass around the perrimeter.

used tractor is like a used car.

test it.

start good?

oil pressure good?

seem to have power?

leaks?

steering good?

oil in water? water in oil?

ask to test it out.. pto, lift.. etc.

an honest seller won't balk at that type of request.

Thanks for the ideas! Now more questions...

I like the idea of smoothing out the pasture, but it is flood irrigated via gated pipe, so that isn't an option, correct?

I should add a couple details... I have an additional four or so acres of smoother pasture that I have been mowing with an *old* JD R72. (yeah, it takes a while) I didn't mention it because I figured anything that would do the rough pasture would do the smooth also, but there are a lot of enclosed areas and obstacles. That would be dealt with much more efficiently with an under mount mower, wouldn't it? Is the general consensus that ANY under mount mower is inadequate for a rough pasture? Maybe I should try to post a picture of it. Rough is a relative term.

So if I go with an old Ford or MF, how do know whether I am getting a solid machine or a dog that is past it's expiration date? I am not tied to a budget other than common sense. As was mentioned earlier, having someone mow it a couple times a year is too cheap, simple, and easy not to consider. (it's just not as fun) There is some number above which a tractor would cost more than the work is worth. I am not opposed to spending more, but it needs to be accounted for in the "toy" column and not the tool column. Part of my problem is figuring out what that number is...

 

[steamtrain]

OK, now we know how to help you. (help you spend your money, that is)
So, you don't really want to know the minimum investment to mow 3 acres. What you want is, someone to justify your purchase of a new toy, right? :laughing:
Question: Are you just trying to convince yourself, or your wife?

Allright, I'll get serious. (for a minute or two anyway)
As many have suggested, a Ford 2000, 3000, or 2600, 3600 would be my pick. ...

Great post, thanks! It's gonna get printed out. I will need to figure out what the "crankcase ventilation blow-by" is, lol.

Those are funny comments on the hay field! I am fairly sure it's supposed to be like that, and it doesn't look different than my neighbors. In fact, the previous owner mentioned he had it re-corrugated last year when we were walking around the place. My wife was reading your posts and said "YES!!" when she saw the idea of smoothing it out. Again, though, I don't know how that could work given the ditch irrigation. If any irrigation experts have an idea...

 

[CowboyRon]

For 3 acres a high end zero turn might work well for you.

 

[Soundguy]

if that's all he ever wated to do was mow grass.

I reccomend a nice padded chair and seatbelt if the pasture is as said... and it will beat the ztr to death