Mowing How do you operate your clutch?

[Herkypilot]

I have a gear MX5100 and when Bush Hogging I leave the hand throttle lever set at around 2200 to 2500 rpm and in LOW/3rd or 4th gear to mow. I don't throttle back to change between forward and reverse, just push the clutch in and change the syncro-shuttle forward/reverse. The tractor operates smoothly using this technique so I don't believe it will cause a problem with the clutch, but not sure. I just thought I'd see what folks do with more experience than I have (which isn't much -only 30 hours on my tractor).


HP

 

[Bluegill2]

You're doin fine.

I run my gear drives about the same. Sometimes I throttle down between gear changes, but rarely between forward and reverse.

 

[MasseyWV]

But you're not really having any fun. It's all so... automatic. You need to drive a tractor with non-syncro fully manual geared transmission to really enjoy the experience.

 

[JoeBuyer]

On my shuttle if I am using the foot throttle, I idle it down before switching between forward and reverse. If I have the hand throttle set high and need to switch between forward and reverse, I do a long pause in neutral before going into the opposite direction's position. That seems to smooth it out. However my new brush hogging machine is the king of all time hoggers, a Massey with the AD3.152 diesel and clutch manual transmission. Back to my roots with that tractor I guess, and looking forward to it this weekend.

 

[Bluegill2]

But you're not really having any fun. It's all so... automatic. You need to drive a tractor with non-syncro fully manual geared transmission to really enjoy the experience.

I spent too many years with non-syncro and still am with the L3800 and love it!

Syncro-shuttle is still more fun than HST...

 

[Herkypilot]

Thanks for the replies. I figured it was ok, I just wanted to make sure I'm doing my part to make sure my clutch lasts as long as possible. I use the foot throttle just like in a truck - back off before pushing in the clutch, especially when the transfer case(?) is set to HIGH which seems to be much easier on the clutch. I only use the technique I originally posted above when in LOW.

HP

 

[Bluegill2]

Thanks for the replies. I figured it was ok, I just wanted to make sure I'm doing my part to make sure my clutch lasts as long as possible. I use the foot throttle just like in a truck - back off before pushing in the clutch, especially when the transfer case(?) is set to HIGH which seems to be much easier on the clutch. I only use the technique I originally posted above when in LOW.

HP

I do the same here.

 

[TripleR]

I don't throttle down changing directions while mowing or changing gears and in 50+ years have never replaced a clutch, we have tractors from 1953 to 2012. Not saying anyone else should just the way my dad and brothers have always done it.

 

[k0ua]

Clutch? I ain't got no clutch no more. Confucius say "man who drive car with automatic transmission is shiftless *******"

James K0UA "clutch-less in Branson"

 

[TripleR]

Clutch? I ain't got no clutch no more. Confucius say "man who drive car with automatic transmission is shiftless *******"

James K0UA "clutch-less in Branson"

Heck, I've got more clutches than I need.

 

[Peacock]

I try to only clutch on the first few trips around a field. From that point on I raise the shredder and use the brakes to make a tight turn at the end of each pass.

2500+ rpm is pretty brutal on the synchro shuttle if you ask me. Thats is asking a lot from what is just a typical bronze blocker ring.

 

[Herkypilot]

Yeah, yeah....yada, yada K0ua. We can't all have HST!

 

[Peacock]

I'm with you. You couldn't give me an HST tractor. I just don't like them.

 

[Bluegill2]

I'm with you. You couldn't give me an HST tractor. I just don't like them.

Same here. :thumbsup:

 

[Chilly807]

I usually let the revs come down before pushing the clutch in, unless it's an emergency.

Sean

 

[JC-jetro]

When you go from forward to reverse you're dealing with synchronize and that's really what you are trying to save and not the clutch. With a bit slower rpm and bit of delay causes the synchronizer to have the same rotational speed for a smooth mesh without damaging.grinding the synchronizer cogs.

Don't ride the clutch and be careful with your clutch pedal to save your clutch disk.

JC,

 

[Herkypilot]

Thanks JC - I was told long ago not to ride the clutch, so I keep to that mantra. I haven't experienced any grinding when moving the synchro lever from forward to reverse although, I do feel a little "catch" around the neutral position. I don't force the lever, just work it through.

HP

 

[JC-jetro]

Thanks JC - I was told long ago not to ride the clutch, so I keep to that mantra. I haven't experienced any grinding when moving the synchro lever from forward to reverse although, I do feel a little "catch" around the neutral position. I don't force the lever, just work it through.

HP

I have driven both MX4700-5100 and L4600 and they do have the same synch shuttle system. They both are great going back and forth without grinding and are very robust. Saving the synchro is really important. You don't need to come to full stop to change but the more momentum you have the more shock the clutch disk would experience. If you don't clutch fully synch shuttle will grind. I see no reason why a person wants to quickly reverse the direction at 4th gear and rabbit and high rpm. That's just too much. In case of picking the stuff with the loader turtle and 2nd or 3rd would be about as fast one needs to go. On Mx4700 the 3rd and 4th gear is also partially synchronized. I ordered a L4600 and same as mx-4700 the shuttle synch is smooth as butter.

JC,