Pulling A ''Loaded Trailer'' behind A Ballast Box ??

[JohnDeere4300]

My Ballast Box weighs 1381 lbs. and since I use my QH, That would add about 65 lbs...So 1446 lbs. on my 3PT Hitch.

I've been hauling firewood in the past couple days, and using my homemade log/trailer hitch to pull my homemade firewood trailer.... Also, The log/trailer hitch doesn't weigh much at all... Probably not over 170 lbs.

I don't know how much my firewood trailer weighs empty, But when loaded with wood it's kind of heavy!... Especially pulling up the hill loaded!!!

Question:
If I pulled the firewood trailer behind my Ballast Box... Would that be ''too much weight'' for my 3PT Hitch ??

I have a steep hill to go up and down when hauling firewood... When I have my log/trailer hitch on and have to pull the empty trailer down the hill, I don't have enough traction on my rear tires!!! ... I have forgot to put my tractor in 4WD a few times and slid all the way down the hill! ... I go down the hill in 2ND gear!

If we get any rain.. I don't haul wood because the hill gets slick!!!.. Been-there done that!!!

So what do you all think about pulling a loaded trailer with the Ballast Box on ??

Thanks!!!

Here's some pictures...(a couple of old pictures from 2010 showing the log/trailer hitch)

Bill

 

[aczlan]

My Ballast Box weighs 1381 lbs. and since I use my QH, That would add about 65 lbs...So 1446 lbs. on my 3PT Hitch.

Per TractorData.com John Deere 4300 tractor information you are good for 2200# on the 3 point, so I would say go for it. If it is too heavy the 3 point will refuse to lift it.

Aaron Z

 

[DrRick]

I have a box like that and it will change the point of connection further back, and I had trouble with the trailer wanting to jacknife me going down a hill. It can really push the front back and forth because of where the trailer coupler is, so far behind the tractor. Just a thought ..

 

[RoyJackson]

Looks like you've been doing this for a while...with no apparent problems (other then the wet grass slip n' slide)...I can't see any reason to not continue what you're doing, can you?

Question for you...is the hitch on the ballast box butt welded?Or, did you cut a hole in the box for a more substantial weld? Just curious...

 

[jenkinsph]

If it were me and wanted more weight on the rear tires I would move the trailer axle rearwards instead. Shifts more weight forward and forego the ballast box hooking up to the drawbar.


Working in the woods gathering firewood it would seem a front box made to fit your forks and a rear carryall would be easier to handle than a trailer and would haul about the same amount.

 

[radioman]

I think aczlan and I think alike. :laughing: I was gonna say if your 3 pt can't lift combo of ballast box and loaded trailer then you shouldnt try to pull it.

Should be ok as long you always keep in mind that there is a greater leverage fulcrum point being moved further back with ballast box on.

 

[Groo]

If nothing else, you have an emergency brake by dropping the 3 point.

 

[rambler]

You have an unusual hitch & crane that moves the hitch back quite a bit in the first placce. This hurts you on the hill.

The weight box will add more traction, but move the hitch back farther yet. Might come out even, but you have a real jack-knife setup there.

I think a lot depends on how you load the trailer - more weight up front, or about balance weight....

-->Paul

 

[JohnDeere4300]

Looks like you've been doing this for a while...with no apparent problems (other then the wet grass slip n' slide)...I can't see any reason to not continue what you're doing, can you?

Yeah, Been doing it for years!!!

I just need some more weight on my rear wheels so I don't ''slip-n-slide''!!!... If I use the log/trailer hitch to pull the trailer, then go down the hill empty and forget to put the tractor in 4WD... The tractor will slid all the way down!... It won't if I use the Ballast Box even in 2WD.... This is the first year using the Ballast Box while working on firewood!

I have pulled a loaded trailer up the hill, and get to the top and the tractor slides sideways in 4WD!... That's happened several times trying to haul wood when the hill is wet!... I had to hook my truck to the tractor to pull it on up, Because I didn't want to back off the hill!!!

Just thought I would ask about using the Ballast Box since it weighs a lot, and puts the trailer way back behind the 3PT hitch!

Question for you...is the hitch on the ballast box butt welded?Or, did you cut a hole in the box for a more substantial weld? Just curious...

The hitch goes all the way through and welded up good!

Here's a picture:... (This is the ugly part of the box!)... It was hard welding down in the box because it's 2'x2' and 2' deep!... Hard to stand up and reach down to the bottom to weld it, and the smoke and arc flash was bad!!!... Had to watch out and not burn a hole through the bottom, Because I used 1/8'' metal to build the BB.

I didn't try to clean my welds up on the bottom, Because concrete covered it all up!

The hitch is welded to a railroad plate, and the RR plate is welded to the bottom... It also has 2 pieces of angle iron that's welded to the front part of the box with a piece of flat-bar under the angle iron!... I wanted to make sure it was welded up good so it wouldn't pull out!

Bill

 

[JohnDeere4300]

If it were me and wanted more weight on the rear tires I would move the trailer axle rearwards instead. Shifts more weight forward and forego the ballast box hooking up to the drawbar.

The axle is moved forwards so I can pull it behind my ATV and not have too much tongue weight!... I've tried just hooking up to the draw-bar, But it didn't help much because of where the axle is now. ??

This winter I'm going to turn the trailer into a dump trailer... Build another bed and have 2 axles!... So after I do that, The trailer would weigh more and I could probably use the draw-bar!

Working in the woods gathering firewood it would seem a front box made to fit your forks and a rear carryall would be easier to handle than a trailer and would haul about the same amount.

I've thought about a carryall and a box for the forks!

When I go on my trails out in the woods... I leave the trailer out in the bottom and just take my forks, log hitch and BB... I then bring the trees out in the bottom and split them there, and then have to haul the split wood up the hill!

I've been trying to stack all the wood on pallets, But the pallets don't work out right in the woodshed!... I can't double stack them.. I'm thinking about not using the woodshed since I would be using pallets, and just cover the tops up with plastic!

Thanks for the reply!

Bill

 

[Gary Fowler]

I think my big concern would be getting too much weight on the rear and loosing my steering ability on the front end. Just be prepared to use the steering brakes to keep it straight but that can get hairy really really quick. Just keep it in mind when loading the trailer. I would keep it tongue end light so it doesnt add more weight than necessary to the rear. With that ballast box, you should have about all the traction you are going to get with those industrial tires.

 

[RoyJackson]

I think my big concern would be getting too much weight on the rear and loosing my steering ability on the front end. Just be prepared to use the steering brakes to keep it straight but that can get hairy really really quick. Just keep it in mind when loading the trailer. I would keep it tongue end light so it doesnt add more weight than necessary to the rear. With that ballast box, you should have about all the traction you are going to get with those industrial tires.

Since JohnDeere4300 wrote:

I have pulled a loaded trailer up the hill, and get to the top and the tractor slides sideways in 4WD!... That's happened several times trying to haul wood when the hill is wet!...

I'd suggest he add more ballast on the front end (wood in the bucket or ?) to ensure steering capability.
That...and staying off those wet slopes!

 

[jenkinsph]

The axle is moved forwards so I can pull it behind my ATV and not have too much tongue weight!... I've tried just hooking up to the draw-bar, But it didn't help much because of where the axle is now. ??

Bill

If you have a welder and you are handy consider making the rear axle slide to adjust the load on the hitch. You can have it adjust and pin in place, similar to big rigs. The reason I prefer this method is the tractor has less overall weight to deal with compared to adding the heavy ballast box.

 

[jenkinsph]

I'm with Roy on the wet slopes, better to stay off of them.

I learned the hardway years ago, you have to pick your days to get the best results and maintain a level of safety.

 

[JohnDeere4300]

I'd suggest he add more ballast on the front end (wood in the bucket or ?) to ensure steering capability.
That...and staying off those wet slopes!

Yeah, I've been hauling split wood in my bucket too!

And I quit hauling wood when the hill is wet!!!

Thanks, Roy!!

If you have a welder and you are handy consider making the rear axle slide to adjust the load on the hitch. You can have it adjust and pin in place, similar to big rigs. The reason I prefer this method is the tractor has less overall weight to deal with compared to adding the heavy ballast box.

That's a great idea, Steve!!! :thumbsup:... Yeah I do a lot of welding, and that would be an easy fix!!!

Thanks!!!

Bill

I'm with Roy on the wet slopes, better to stay off of them.

I learned the hardway years ago, you have to pick your days to get the best results and maintain a level of safety.

No more hauling firewood when the hill is wet!!!

 

[Kodthree]

Sir,
Have you considered lifting your BB to its maximum, and pulling the loaded trailer off of the tractor's drawbar? An extended drawbar might do the trick, or adding the sliding tongue to the trailer as another poster commented could work. Measurements are certainly required. In this scenario, you'd have to make sure you had plenty of clearance between the bottom of the BB and the top of the tongue AND not go over dips or humps that would cause a "vertical" jacknife (?)! This way, you'd have the weight you need, a little less length than trailering off of your BB, and less lateral force acting on your tractor, thereby reducing the likelihood of a jacknife.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Pulling from the drawbar could likely allow you to remove the box blade completely. Most all of the weight on the drawbar transmits directly to the rear tires since it is not way out behind you like it is when attaching to the box blade or ballast box. Pulling from the drawbar is the safest way to move any load even if you overload, then it will pull up the front wheels thus lowering the drawbar which then acts like a lever to raise the rear end up thus reducing traction. You could get a see-saw effect but that would be about all. Ever watch a tractor pull contest, same effect.
IF you really load your trailer heavy on the front, then you might get a little light on the tractor front end. In that case, just throw a few logs into your FEL to hold down the front so you have a balanced load on the tractor.