Need advice on building roller

[Redneck in training]

Easy. Let say the tank is standing up. Put the square on top of the tank such a way that one leg is vertical parallel to the tank axis and the other horizontal crossing the tank approximately at the center. Put a mark close to the center on the tank and the square. Place the square on the opposite side of the tank and put a mark on the tank under the mark on the square. The center is exactly in between the marks on the tank. Repeat 90 deg. from the first measurement.

 

[moored4]

And if the framing Sq isn't long enough then use vice grips or C clamps and clamp a stright edge on one leg that will extend down the side of the tank.

 

[bcp]

If I'm using a hole saw to make 1 1/2" holes for an axle, I can use that same hole saw to make a hole for a 1 1/2" NPT fitting.

A 1 1/2' hole will be much smaller than a fitting for 1 1/2" pipe. You may find a fitting that is about 1 1/2 inch OD but it will be for, maybe, a 1" pipe.

Pipe sizes:
Nominal Pipe Size - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Couldn't find a fitting size chart.

Bruce

 

[brokenknee]

Easy. Let say the tank is standing up. Put the square on top of the tank such a way that one leg is vertical parallel to the tank axis and the other horizontal crossing the tank approximately at the center. Put a mark close to the center on the tank and the square. Place the square on the opposite side of the tank and put a mark on the tank under the mark on the square. The center is exactly in between the marks on the tank. Repeat 90 deg. from the first measurement.

Thanks, that makes sense.

 

[Ruark]

A 1 1/2' hole will be much smaller than a fitting for 1 1/2" pipe. You may find a fitting that is about 1 1/2 inch OD but it will be for, maybe, a 1" pipe.

Thanks - so say my fill/drain fitting will look like this:

http://tinyurl.com/7tr2tkg

And it's marked on the package as "1 1/2" X 1" ... My idea was to cut a 1 1/2" hole in the end of the tank, sit the fitting in there and weld around it. So you're saying a 1 1/2" hole would be too small for it? I appreciate your help.

 

[bcp]

Your link didn't work, so I can't comment on that fitting.

I don't have any loose large fittings to measure, but as an example, a 1/2 inch fitting was 1 1/4 diameter. A 3/4 inch fitting was 1 7/16 diameter.

Pipe measurements were established when pipes were made of lead and needed very thick walls to have any pressure resistance. Originally a 1/2 inch pipe was 1/2 inch inside diameter, with about 3/16 inch thick walls. As materials got better, wall thickness was reduced. But outside diameter and fitting ID size for the threads had to stay the same. Now the nominal pipe size has no relationship to any actual measurement.

Bruce

 

[Ruark]

Your link didn't work, so I can't comment on that fitting.

It should have worked. I'll try this:

This is just a plain galvanized bushing. I saw one at Lowe's for 3 or 4 bucks. The size is "1 1/2 X 1" inches. The idea is to weld it into a hole in the tank, and use a 1" threaded plug.

 

[bcp]

It should have worked. I'll try this:

This is just a plain galvanized bushing. I saw one at Lowe's for 3 or 4 bucks. The size is "1 1/2 X 1" inches. The idea is to weld it into a hole in the tank, and use a 1" threaded plug.

The 1 1/2 threads on the outside will be about 1 9/10 diameter.

 

[F250DSLPWR]

Easy and cheap, use a piece of 2 5/16" pipe for the axel thru the center of the tank and then for the axel hubs use two pieces of 3 1/2" pipe. One piece for each side to weld your Y frame to it. The 3 1/2" pipe will just slide over the 2 5/16" pipe with about an 1/8" slop. Drill a couple holes in the axel hubs and tap in a grease fitting for each. For a heavy duty low speed axel about as cheap and easy as it gets.

 

[Ruark]

The 1 1/2 threads on the outside will be about 1 9/10 diameter.

That seems about right. There's no such thing as a 1 9/10" hole saw. Maybe use a 1 7/8 (1.8750) and ream it out just a little if needed.

Axle - no, I'm using a 1 1/2" steel round bar. I found one for $35. I'll run it through, then weld it at the ends to seal the tank (it has to hold water, remember). Put 1 1/2" pillow bearings on the frame.

 

[ptexer]

I once bought 1 inch round steel (new) and 1 inch pillow blocks. The rod was slightly egged and wouldn't go through the blocks. I had to turn on lathe. I would take pillow blocks with me when buying the steel to check fit.

 

[cowski]

if you are going to use a rod or pipe you could use a wooden bearing.i have a old packer that came from the factory with wooden bearings.i use bodock for the bearings when i replaced them.bodock is real hard wood and takes a long time to rot.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

The 1 1/2 threads on the outside will be about 1 9/10 diameter.

You cannot weld that fitting into the tank, it is mallaeble iron. You would have to bronze weld it, either arc or O/A. You need to use a coupling that is steel. They will be sooth on the outside, if the coupling has ridges and end bosses it is also malleable. You can get steel couplings at the big box stores but not other steel fittings. Threaded pipe comes standard with a coupling on one end. Decide the size drain and vent you want, get the coupling and cut out the hole size of the OD of the fitting. A hole saw will not work on that rounded end. Follow my previous thread on this back aways. Burn it out or sawzall it. Old pipefitter talking here.

Ron

 

[deereman75]

For the wood bearings, an old blacksmith book I have says fruit wood is best for it. Something like apple, pear, plum, those sorts of things. Also, drill a hole through the bearing, so you can keep it greased, that will make it last longer. Finally, drill the hole so the shaft just fits in it, and heat up the shaft a bit, and char the hole a bit, this will make it spin better.
Edit, forgot one part. Rip cut the piece in half, and clamp them together, before you drill the hole, it needs to be a two piece bearing.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I once bought 1 inch round steel (new) and 1 inch pillow blocks. The rod was slightly egged and wouldn't go through the blocks. I had to turn on lathe. I would take pillow blocks with me when buying the steel to check fit.

Don't use mild steel rod, it is not always perfectly round and bends easier. Use cold rolled steel, it is round and stronger. That is what most shafts (axels) are made of for this type loading. Higher grade than that you cannot afford for a project of this nature. That is why in an earlier thread I stated to use short pieces of shafting welded into the end of the pipe through the tank. The only stress point here is at the point where it is welded to the tank ends, that section through the tank is just to keep it all linded up straight. I assume the OP does not have a machine shop. If you machine it then you have to cut down to the next standard size bearing. The cam lock ring pillow blocks are pretty good and available in sealed ball bearings (no lubing) and not that expensive. Think about a flange mounted bearing on the towing bars.

Ron

 

[weldermike]

For the wood bearings, an old blacksmith book I have says fruit wood is best for it. Something like apple, pear, plum, those sorts of things. Also, drill a hole through the bearing, so you can keep it greased, that will make it last longer. Finally, drill the hole so the shaft just fits in it, and heat up the shaft a bit, and char the hole a bit, this will make it spin better.
Edit, forgot one part. Rip cut the piece in half, and clamp them together, before you drill the hole, it needs to be a two piece bearing.

Pretty cool, Good to know!

 

[Ruark]

A hole saw will not work on that rounded end.

Why not? I know of many people who have used bi-metal hole saws to drill holes through 1/2" plate. Go slow, use lots of oil.

Not trying to argue or anything, but it doesn't seem like bending would be a problem with 1 1/2" or 2" mild steel. Remember, the bearing is going to be almost smack against the end of the tank; it won't have much leverage on the axle.

No, I don't have a machine shop.. I have a 220V AC welder, an angle grinder, sawzall, HD drill, all Milwaukee. That's about it.

 

[SandburRanch]

Rip cut the piece in half, and clamp them together, before you drill the hole, it needs to be a two piece bearing.

:thumbsup: and then as it wears, if it ever does, the two halves can be swapped if necessary, or milled if too loose or shimmed if too tight.