BX2660 for small "farm" use

[wcampbell47]

I'll throw it out there since I didn't see it mentioned yet. If you can afford it - even if you don't think you need it - consider a model with a backhoe. Based on the description of the property, it sounds like sooner or later you'll wish you had it. Then add the three point hitch as an option.

Austin - from what you have described I think you will be doing a lot more with the 3 point attachments first than you will be digging with a back hoe. Bush hogging, tilling a garden, etc. You could buy several 3 point implements for what one back hoe will cost.

 

[bikerdib]

Here goes another vote for a "B" as minimum and maybe an "L". Very seldom will you find that you have too much tractor (up to a reasonable point of course) but you will find yourself saying "I wish I had either more power, weight or height and often a combination of all 3. I started with a B7100, moved to a B7300 as an upgrade for a short time and then needed upgrading to a B3300SU. I'd be willing to bet that buying a "B" or "L" will save you money in the long run since you won't find yourself having to upgrade/up-size.

 

[jimbo64]

Go bigger -- look into the B-series or larger. I think the BX is too small for what you describe.

if i had 30 acres i'd be looking for a new or good used "L"

 

[jakell2010]

Get the B,,for the Clarence,size,and HP,,,,,I have the 2920 and have never run out of power,,,I wish it were heavier though,,,even with all 4 wheels loaded

 

[Bota Bum]

How much width does the spacers add? Any interference with the deck?

 

[doswacko]

I have s bx25 that I use to mow about the same size you describe.
I have 200 acres in Vermont with about 20 acres cleared that I mow.
I had to install a bxpanded belly pan to keep the twigs out of the fan when im using the tractor with no mower. I like the size, as it fits between trees and rocks my full size tractor will not fit.

 

[dablack]

there is no way I can swing a B right now because we just bought the property, are building a small house there, and are still paying rent. SO, I have decided to let it go for a year, use a cheap riding mower for a couple of trails and field paths I want to keep clear, and then once the house is built, we won't be paying rent anymore. Then I can look into it again.

Also, Doswacko,

How long does it take you to cut the 20 acres with your bx25?

thanks
Austin

 

[Verticaltrx]

there is no way I can swing a B right now because we just bought the property, are building a small house there, and are still paying rent. SO, I have decided to let it go for a year, use a cheap riding mower for a couple of trails and field paths I want to keep clear, and then once the house is built, we won't be paying rent anymore. Then I can look into it again.

Also, Doswacko,

How long does it take you to cut the 20 acres with your bx25?

thanks
Austin

Just FYI, with a BX2660 and a B2320 both setup the same (loader, ag tires) the B is a whopping $233 more. Personally I'd rather have the larger tractor with slightly less power. However, if you want to step up to the B2620 then it is about $1700 more.

 

[bp fick]

Just FYI, with a BX2660 and a B2320 both setup the same (loader, ag tires) the B is a whopping $233 more. Personally I'd rather have the larger tractor with slightly less power. However, if you want to step up to the B2620 then it is about $1700 more.

It isn't even less power. The engine is the same D1005. Kubota just rates them at different RPM in the BX2660 & B2320. You can "rate" these things about any the OEM wishes to, to market niches, it seems.

THAT was exactly my experience, a whopping $250 difference.

To the OP. Take your time to sort this out. Frankly, with that much land and why you really want to "mow" it all is a mystery to my thinking, but nonetheless, take your time and sort this out.

 

[KU Gator]

To add a little to what BP and Vertical said, the engine is the same in the BX2660 and the B2320. The HP difference comes from more RPM in the 2660, but the torque is probably pretty much the same. The price jump from the 2320 to the 2620 is not only more HP, it is also more FEL standard. The 2320 comes with a smaller FEL and less lift capacity. You can upgrade it, but that narrows again the cost gap.

If you are thinking of buying new, all of the manufacturers offer "0%", financing and most with $0 down. There is usually some rebate if you don't take that option, so of course not totally free money. The current deal on the Kubota web site seems to be $0 down, 0% for 48 months for most of their line-up. No body likes payments, but the reality is with that deal, a $5K difference in purchase cost only costs you $104 per month. Most of the dealers will let you add Land Pride mowers, box blades, etc into the initial purchase as part of the financed package.

If you have an existing riding tractor mower, you maybe can mow for awhile with it and maybe have someone a couple of times per year mow the larger amount. As I mentioned in my earlier post, we mowed about 6 or 7 acres 3 or 4 times with a JD garden tractor before buying the Kubota. It burned a lot of gas, but we were able to keep up until we decided.

 

[dablack]

Yall are correct. I ran the numbers of a BX 2660 with a mower deck and FEL and got $367 a month. A B2320 with FEL and 60" deck is $383. HMMMMMM

 

[KU Gator]

A couple more things to think about. Depending on pricing in your area, most people find they can get the tractor for somewhere between 10 & 15% less than the MSRP pricing shown in the web site. You can also contact one of the national sellers like Barlows in KY to get a quote on a delivered price.

Another way to save is to get a rear finish mower like is shown in Jakell's picture. That looks like a Land Pride mower which is a good quality mower, yet quite a bit cheaper than adding a MMM to the tractor. The RFM is easier to remove or install and you have a lot of choices for providers. To me the advantage of the MMM is it is easier to mow around things like near the house and doesn't swing wide when you turn like the RFM does. But the RFM also has the advantage that you can back it up under low hanging limbs.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

A couple more things to think about. Depending on pricing in your area, most people find they can get the tractor for somewhere between 10 & 15% less than the MSRP pricing shown in the web site. You can also contact one of the national sellers like Barlows in KY to get a quote on a delivered price.

Another way to save is to get a rear finish mower like is shown in Jakell's picture. That looks like a Land Pride mower which is a good quality mower, yet quite a bit cheaper than adding a MMM to the tractor. The RFM is easier to remove or install and you have a lot of choices for providers. To me the advantage of the MMM is it is easier to mow around things like near the house and doesn't swing wide when you turn like. But the RFM also has the advantage that you can back it up under low hanging limbs.

I've bought 13 from Barlows and am very satisfied with their prices and service, obviously.
I'd also recommend the Landpride Rear Finish mower. I used a cheap RFM first on my B7800 and then Barlows gave me what I paid for it toward a Landpride. Landpride was built like a tank. Never buy a cheap light weight implement that will be expected to do heavy duty. I believe the price for a B with a RFM will be less than the BX2660 with MMM.
Contact Barlows and see if we're wrong.
Used Kubota Tractors

 

[dablack]

Wow guys. Yall have really stepped it up and helped me out with the purchase. I would have never thought that a RFM would be better. I will have a small lawn tractor for around the house and I do have lots of trees. I'm not sure which way I would go, but I am rather cheap so...... I might go with the land pride. I wonder if a local dealer could put that with the tractor purchase so I could finance it.

Before we buy anything I'm going to have to build a tractor shed with doors because we currently don't live on the property.

If I did take it back and forth, would a B series fit under a standard garage door?

 

[TigerfaninAR]

Yep, the rops on the B series fold down.

 

[taos]

I had a bx 25 great machine but ,,, no ground clearance and like others have said it has a hydrostatic cooling fan under tractor which lots of bx owners have done is damaged it the fan is cheap to buy but the labour to remouve engine or trans is expensive, so I now own a b2920 and I love this tractor ,I cut aprox 1 acre of grass ,and at first thought it was too much tractor for this ,but I use it for mouving firewood on pallets ,it has a hard time to do this if it hardwood ,aprox 3/4 of a cord (the bx can't do it) and at first the tractor was damaging the turf on tight corners (with turf tires) and after a bit of use and wear on tires it good now( aprox 10hrs,)the bx was a better tractor for grass cutting on small lots, but I think you should go for a b series or slightly bigger tractor

 

[PapaPerk]

L Series

 

[bp fick]

Wow guys. I would have never thought that a RFM would be better. I will have a small lawn tractor for around the house and I do have lots of trees. I'm not sure which way I would go, but I am rather cheap so...... I might go with the land pride. I wonder if a local dealer could put that with the tractor purchase so I could finance it.

The dealer can finance a LandPride or any other RFM on the purchase. Let's just say you "don't take that $1200 off" but suddenly? An RFM is in the deal. :thumbsup:

An RFM isn't "better" or worse, for that matter. Just different. Easier to install/remove, and less money. I can get close to trees, poles, and anything else. It just takes experience and time with the RFM equipment. What you cannot do with an RFM is pivot inside on a half circle like you can with an MMM, if you know what I mean. Learning how to wig and wag a RFM just takes practice. But, if you've got a lawn tractor or push mower for cleaning up detail work, it's not a biggie at at all.

 

[TripleR]

Pretty much in agreement with bp fick on MMM v RFM. We have used both for years and actually mowed much of our yard with one on a Ford NAA and trimmed around the house with a riding mower.

We have since begun using a BX2660 or John Deere 2305 for all but mowing fields. One of the drawbacks of an RFM is that you run over and mash the grass down with your front and rear tires then the front tires on the RFM before the blades get to the grass. For some this isn't an issue, but for some it is.

We didn't even hook up to an RFM last year using a MMM and rotary cutters.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Pretty much in agreement with bp fick on MMM v RFM. We have used both for years and actually mowed much of our yard with one on a Ford NAA and trimmed around the house with a riding mower.

We have since begun using a BX2660 or John Deere 2305 for all but mowing fields. One of the drawbacks of an RFM is that you run over and mash the grass down with your front and rear tires then the front tires on the RFM before the blades get to the grass. For some this isn't an issue, but for some it is.

We didn't even hook up to an RFM last year using a MMM and rotary cutters.

Larry: This is why you always mow going backward/in reverse with a RFM!!! :laughing::laughing::laughing: