How do you tie down tractors when hauling on a trailer?

[OrangeToys]

It doesn't work like that. You have to post a picture of it so that we can all tell you what you're doing wrong. QUOTE]

Dang I just didn't want all the abuse...but here it goes

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Dang I just didn't want all the abuse...but here it goes

You'll probably get some comments about that front strap being on the loader instead of on the tractor itself. I'd feel comfortable towing that load, but there are others more safety minded and more well versed in best practices for hauling.

What's the rating on those straps?

 

[OrangeToys]

What's the rating on those straps?

The Front is a 3" with work load of 5400lbs
The Back is a 4" with work load of 5400lbs

 

[JB4310]

The Front is a 3" with work load of 5400lbs
The Back is a 4" with work load of 5400lbs

I'm no expert, we can probably find something wrong with all our set ups.

On yours I would say since the loader is detachable, it does need a separate attachment, but using it as the only tie down on the front is probably not kosher.

On the back it looks like it goes behind the ROPS, so that should be good, but I would bring them down to closer stake pockets, to improve the geometry. Also I believe, but am not positive, you would need a separate tie down for a 3pt implement.

I agree with IPF, I wouldn't be very worried of it moving when towing it, just be worried of a safety stop and inspection.

JB

 

[grsthegreat]

Ive hauled alot of equipment, and it's really funny. If you rent a mini excavator, it has front and rear rings welded onto the frame that are designed for tying the rig down. Same for larger forklifts, vibratory rollers, etc

Why dont they have these on smaller tractors.

When i first purchased my Dodge 2500 cummins, i used to joke about the fords coming out with their rigs and having the large steel tow loops on the front. I used to joke that these were installed for making it easier to tow them with.. har har.

After the 10th time my dodge was hooked up to a tow truck i wondered why Dodge didnt come up with the idea.

My newer F350 has some gnarly hooks up front.

 

[Sutol]

It doesn't work like that. You have to post a picture of it so that we can all tell you what you're doing wrong. QUOTE]

Dang I just didn't want all the abuse...but here it goes

The problem I see with those straps is that the rear of the tractor can move sideways and the longer the strap the more movement is possible.

If it can move then it will move.

Just my experience you know, just sayin

 

[OrangeToys]

I'm no expert, we can probably find something wrong with all our set ups.

On yours I would say since the loader is detachable, it does need a separate attachment, but using it as the only tie down on the front is probably not kosher.

On the back it looks like it goes behind the ROPS, so that should be good, but I would bring them down to closer stake pockets, to improve the geometry.

JB

My problem on the front is that I can't find a good place to tie to without putting something on the tractor in a bind or break it. On the Back the length of the strap is long i know but I was avoiding some rubbing on the brush hog, it's typically on the one closest to the fender when using other implements.

 

[grsthegreat]

I used to tie my JD870 thru the same holes in the front bucket, and tie the rear over the drawbar support. There was no other way to do it. I use 5/16" chains though. I dont trust these straps.

I hauled for many years that way. never had issues. There simply isnt any other thing to hook onto or go thru without drilling a hole thru the tractors bodyworks.

 

[Willl]

The other day loaded my tractor up and this time of year the wood deck on the trailer is green, wet and slicker than snot.

It's a tilt and I did get some wheel spin on the way up.

On the way to the site and going around a curve in the road, had no slippage, but was quite sure the only thing keeping it place was my tie down chains.

 

[OrangeToys]

I used to tie my JD870 thru the same holes in the front bucket, and tie the rear over the drawbar support. There was no other way to do it. I use 5/16" chains though. QUOTE]

Do you have any pics? I have thought of this but how?

 

[grsthegreat]

I used to tie my JD870 thru the same holes in the front bucket, and tie the rear over the drawbar support. There was no other way to do it. I use 5/16" chains though. QUOTE]

Do you have any pics? I have thought of this but how?

no pics..sorry. I sold the tractor last year. My new tractor is too heavy and large for my current trailer.

 

[Willl]

Here's how I do my 790

 

[aczlan]

My problem on the front is that I can't find a good place to tie to without putting something on the tractor in a bind or break it. On the Back the length of the strap is long i know but I was avoiding some rubbing on the brush hog, it's typically on the one closest to the fender when using other implements.

What if you went from the right stake pocket to the left ROPS post and visa versa?
That would let you go down between the toplink and lower arms of the 3 point.
If needed, you could pull the toplink to avoid rubbing on that.

On the front, I would put a clevis into the bottom of the brush guard on each side and tie off to that or hook onto the frame rails (from the inside) just aft of the grill guard.
That should still clear your loader arms and give you better angles.

I would also use 4 straps to hold the tractor down (I do that on our B7500 and BX2660) as I get better angles, less chafing and another backup if something breaks that way.
I realize that the DOT doesn't require it, but IMO 4 straps or chains is well worth the cost for the peace of mind it brings.

Aaron Z

 

[rasimmo]

I used to tie my JD870 thru the same holes in the front bucket, and tie the rear over the drawbar support. There was no other way to do it. I use 5/16" chains though. QUOTE]

Do you have any pics? I have thought of this but how?

You can put a shackle in the drawbar and use that as the diedown point.

I haul a M9540 with a shackle in the drawbar with a chain passed through it and another chain through the loader arm cross tube. Never had any problems. When I was a kid my dad and grandpa hauled tractors all over the place without even a hay string holding them down and never had any trouble. At least I am doing better than that.

 

[clee4020]

You can put a shackle in the drawbar and use that as the diedown point.

I haul a M9540 with a shackle in the drawbar with a chain passed through it and another chain through the loader arm cross tube. Never had any problems. When I was a kid my dad and grandpa hauled tractors all over the place without even a hay string holding them down and never had any trouble. At least I am doing better than that.

I also haul my M9540 with a 3/8 G70 chain and 3/8-1/2 binder through a shackle in the drawbar on the rear and a 3/8 G70 chain and 3/8-1/2 binder looped over brush guard on front. This is how the Kubota dealer suggested to tie it down. I wish there were holes or hooks to use, but there isn't and I don't really want to start drilling or welding to the frame.

On our JD 4020, I do use two 3/8 G70 chain and 3/8-1/2 binders on front and rear because I am able to find something to hook to, plus it is a heavier tractor.

 

[LHS Inc]

You can put a shackle in the drawbar and use that as the diedown point.

I haul a M9540 with a shackle in the drawbar with a chain passed through it and another chain through the loader arm cross tube. Never had any problems. When I was a kid my dad and grandpa hauled tractors all over the place without even a hay string holding them down and never had any trouble. At least I am doing better than that.

Thats exactly how I chain mine down. Clevis in the drawbar and I keep a 6 foot long piece of quarter round trim in back of the truck to push the chain thru the cross tube on the loader.

After reading most of these threads I'm going to try and find a way to chain down the front of the tractor and strap the bucket.

Because most of the CUT's are sold with a FEL we forget, at least I do, that the FEL is an implement.

G70 5/16 chains, hooks, and rachet binders.

 

[JB4310]

Shackle on the draw bar seems like a good practice, I thought it was to low at first and attached up higher where my BH is pinned. But hearing all you using the draw bar makes me think it's at least OK to do, though that is not really catching the corners like that...

I don't think the cross tube of the loader is good, that's really not holding the front wheel down or in place IMO.

Definitely better than the old timers that used no tie downs though of course.

JB

 

[patrick_g]

When I haul my Kubota Grand L4610HSTC in my dump trailer I typically do not tie it down. Close fit, little motion, FEL is in front of front wall of trailer. Would only separate from trailer if the trailer rolled over in which case chains would not help much.

When I haul this tractor on my HD car hauler/util trailer (all steel, bed included over 18 ft on deck) I secure it with multiple chains fore and aft as well as athwarts with over center and ratcheting load binders (boomers). All chain spans are short and direct and in correct direction to oppose undesirable motion of tractor. If trailer rolled or just came close the tractor would remain hitched to trailer as my chains are considerably over sized grade 70 and binders are over sized too and safety wired shut so they can't release if any slack were to happen to chain in extreme conditions.

I don't typically haul my tractor on highway in dump trailer and when I do it is at reduced speeds and short distances. If that were not the case I would use the HD 'D' rings on the floor of the dump trailer in the corners to secure the tractor.

You never know when some bozo will force you to do some violent maneuvering to save you, him, or both so better to prepare and go the belt and suspenders route and not need to than to wish you had after the fact.

Pat

 

[JB4310]

On the front, I would put a clevis into the bottom of the brush guard on each side and tie off to that or hook onto the frame rails (from the inside) just aft of the grill guard.
That should still clear your loader arms and give you better angles.

Aaron Z

I don't think the brush gaurd is designed to hold much more than itself, I do the frame behind the weight bracket. that makes a very short stout connection.

I know I already showed this pic.

JB

 

[aczlan]

I don't think the brush gaurd is designed to hold much more than itself, I do the frame behind the weight bracket. that makes a very short stout connection.

Makes sense in your case, but on a Kubota (like OrangeToys who I replied to has) the brush guard is different. This is the one on our L3830 which is similar to his:

That (IMO) is strong enough to fasten the tractor to.

Aaron Z